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North Eolus & Mt Eolus
September 3-4, 2016
Purgatory to Chicago Basin
Mileage: 38 (estimated)
Gain: 7,000' (estimated)
Welcome to my first 14er trip report about hiking 14ers. I have written a few about 13ers and lower peaks, but as this was my 14er finisher I decided to write one, mindful of the instructions that:
a trip report should be useful to others in some way and not just a quick blog about your hike ... Reports which have received favorable comments, reports containing good climbing beta, engaging stories, etc.
Will this trip report be useful to you? That's for you to decide. If so, favorable comments are welcomed. I'm not providing any new beta here. Most people take the Durango & Silverton Railroad to hike these peaks, so the lesser traveled Purgatory and Animas River trails may be of interest to you. Will this story engage you? You'll just have to read it to find out.
This trip report is divided into four sections following this introduction. (1) Some background on Fritz Perls, Gestalt Therapy, and the Gestalt Prayer. (2) The approach from Purgatory to Needleton on Saturday, September 3. (3) Acknowledgements. (4) Hiking from Needleton to Chicago Basin to North Eolus to Eolus, descent to Needleton, and return approach to Purgatory on Sunday, September 4.
Fritz Perls
From Wikipedia:
"Friedrich (Frederick) Salomon Perls (July 8, 1893 - March 14, 1970), better known as Fritz Perls, was a noted German-born psychiatrist and psychotherapist. Perls coined the term 'Gestalt therapy' to identify the form of psychotherapy that he developed with his wife, Laura Perls, in the 1940s and 1950s. Perls became associated with the Esalen Institute in 1964, and he lived there until 1969. His approach to psychotherapy is related to, but not identical to, Gestalt psychology, and it is different from Gestalt theoretical psychotherapy.
The core of the Gestalt Therapy process is enhanced awareness of sensation, perception, bodily feelings, emotion, and behavior, in the present moment. Relationship is emphasized, along with contact between the self, its environment, and the other.
Perls has been widely cited outside the realm of psychotherapy for a quotation often described as the "Gestalt prayer":
I do my thing and you do your thing.
I am not in this world to live up to your expectations,
and you are not in this world to live up to mine.
You are you, and I am I,
and if by chance we find each other, it's beautiful.
If not, it can't be helped.
(Fritz Perls, Gestalt Therapy Verbatim, 1969)
Let's re-read the first two lines of that. What is my thing? What is your thing? What are your expectations? And how does this relate to hiking, climbing, mountaineering? I moved to Colorado less than seven years ago, and my thing could perhaps be summarized as hiking 14ers, hiking 13ers, hiking peaks below 13K, hiking that does not involve summiting peaks, technical climbing at a novice level, resort skiing up to what may be considered an advanced level, and backcountry skiing at an introductory, novice level. What is your thing? I can't answer that for you.
What are your expectations? This is where it gets complicated. When I started this in 2010, I bought copies of both Roach guide books for the 14ers and 13ers, and began working on the 14ers and centennial lists simultaneously. I did not know at the time if I would finish the 14ers, or comprehensively the 100 highest ranked summits of Colorado, but this was my initial intention. The complication within this is that at some point(s) throughout this journey I questioned whether I was doing this for myself, or doing it for others, i.e. your expectations. Getting to 40, 50+ 14ers or 60, 70+ centennials there seemed to be an unspoken expectation that I would finish the 14ers, and possibly the centennials. Your expectations. Reaching a certain threshold, the question is no longer what have you done, but what do you have left?
There also seems to be, among some in this community, an implied expectation of escalation in difficulty, technicality, quantity of peaks, geographic extent of peaks, et cetera. Your expectations. And upon finishing one or more of these lists and/or attaining a new threshold, the question is often asked: what's next? I will pre-emptively answer some of these questions here.
Am I going to finish the centennials? Possibly, but probably not. 13ers? Definitely not. Calendar winter 14ers? Definitely not. Ski the 14ers? Definitely not. State highpoints? No appeal to me. Colorado county highpoints? No appeal to me. Whitney? I would like to do the mountaineers route someday. Rainier? Possibly. Denali? Definitely not. South America, Europe, Asia? Possibly, but not anytime soon.
One of my favorite Rolling Stones songs from the 1968 album Beggars Banquet is titled No Expectations.
No expectations > your expectations.
The Purgatory trail to the Animas River trail is approximately 4 miles and 800-1,000 (estimated) gain/loss. Sanja not far in from the Purgatory trailhead Purgatory Flats Cascade Creek steep dropoff on the north side of the trail descending the Cascade Creek drainage to its confluence with the Animas River
It is 7 miles of mostly flat trail from the junction to Needleton. looking north up the Animas River maintenance vehicle on the Durango & Silverton Railroad railroad bridge crossing to the west side of the Animas River taking pictures of people taking pictures my first and only sighting of the train on this trip southbound backpackers on the Animas River trail nearing Needleton legal campfire at campsite before entering Needle Creek drainage
A month ago, just before a planned trip to Chicago Basin via the train that was cancelled due to weather, I wrote out a list of everything (that I can remember) that I have summited above elevation 13K. I included the names of everybody (that I can remember) who I summited with that day. After six and a half years, I can't remember everybody. If I can't remember your name, I have included your 14ers forum name, or listed you as unknown. If I misspelled your name, or if anybody not listed here, or listed here as unknown would like to have their name added, I can edit to include that. Also, if I included your name here, and you would like your name removed (for whatever reason you wish to be disassociated from me and/or this trip report), I can edit that and list you as unknown. I have included some additional notes where appropriate. The following key details the circumstances of some of these summits:
MOT - met on trail
MOS - met on summit
CC - climbing connection
LG - large group
MOT and MOS indicate the first time we met and/or the first time we summited together. A subsequent MOT or MOS notation indicates that we already met, and met again unplanned on a subsequent hike. It's a small world out there.
3/6/2010 - Quandary Pk - Jon Frohlich (MOT)
3/13/2010 - Mt Bierstadt - solo
4/10/2010 - Mt Sherman & Gemini Pk - 14ers Spring Gathering (LG)
4/11/2010 - Mt Elbert - Linda Jagger, Tom Jagger & Steve Gladbach
5/--/2010 - Horseshoe Mtn, Mt Sheridan & Peerless Mtn - solo
5/25/2010 - Grays Pk & Torreys Pk - solo
5/27/2010 - Pikes Pk - solo
5/30/2010 - Mt Silverheels - solo
5/31/2010 - Mt Princeton - my brother
6/11/2010 - Torreys Pk - unknown (CC) via Kelso Ridge
7/17/2010 - Longs Pk - solo
7/24/2010 - Mt of the Holy Cross - solo
8/1/2010 - Longs Pk & Mt Meeker - unknown (MOT) via the Loft
8/7/2010 - Mt Lincoln & Mt Cameron - solo
8/13/2010 - Capitol Pk & K2 - unknowns (CC)
8/21/2010 - Mt Yale - Richard Miller (MOS)
8/22/2010 - Mt Shavano & Tabeguache Pk - my brother
8/25/2010 - Grays Pk & Torreys Pk - Jeff Golden (CC) via Kelso Ridge
8/29/2010 - Mt Lindsey - Richard Miller
9/--/2010 - Crystal Pk - solo
9/--/2010 - Fletcher Mtn - solo
9/1/2010 - Snowmass Mtn - solo via Snowmass Lake
9/2/2010 - Grizzly Pk (13,988') - solo
9/3/2010 - Mt Massive - solo
9/24/2010 - Mt Ouray - solo
9/25/2010 - Wetterhorn Pk & Matterhorn Pk - Richard Miller, 14ers Fall Gathering (LG)
9/26/2010 - Uncompahgre Pk - Richard Miller, 14ers Fall Gathering (LG)
10/11/2010 - Mt Bierstadt - solo
10/30/2010 - Quandary Pk - 14ers Winter Welcomer (LG)
10/31/2010 - Humboldt Pk - Senad Rizvanovic, Darin Baker, Steve Gladbach & "bigtrout" (CC)
11/--/2010 - Mt Buckskin - solo
12/12/2010 - Mt Yale - Anna Mathes, Boyd van Voorhis, Bill Wood, Ryan Marsters, "mikefromcraig" & unknowns (CC)
1/15/2011 - Quandary Pk - Chris Gilsdorf, Matt Speth & Jeff Golden, 14ers January Quandary Gathering (LG)
2/13/2011 - Mt Sherman - Chris Gilsdorf, Matt Speth & Jeff Golden
3/5/2011 - Mt Elbert - Jeff Golden
5/--/2011 - Kelso Mtn - solo
5/16/2011 - Mt Lady Washington - solo
5/29/2011 - Ellingwood Pt - solo
5/30/2011 - Mt Adams - Chris Gilsdorf
6/11/2011 - Redcloud Pk & Sunshine Pk - solo
6/12/2011 - Handies Pk & Whitecross Mtn - solo
6/13/2011 - San Luis Pk - solo
6/30/2011 - Mt Lady Washington - Jenna Ackerman, Jon Ackerman & Mikah Ackerman (1st 13er)
7/2/2011 - La Plata Pk - solo
7/3/2011 - Mt Huron - solo
7/9/2011 - Castle Pk & Conundrum Pk - Richard Miller, Scott "springshiker" & unknown
7/16/2011 - Crestone Pk - unknown (CC)
7/30/2011 - Mt Belford & Mt Oxford - Boyd van Voorhis & Luke "coolhandluke"
7/31/2011 - Missouri Mtn - Boyd van Voorhis & Luke "coolhandluke"
8/13/2011 - Crestone Needle - unknown (CC)
8/20/2011 - Culebra Pk & Red Mtn - Chris Gilsdorf & unknowns (LG)
8/21/2011 - San Luis Pk - Chris Gilsdorf
8/27/2011 - Ice Mtn & North Apostle - Derek Freed, Natalie Moran, Ryan Marsters, Jon Frohlich & Javier "javy20040" (CC)
9/--/2011 - Mt Edwards - solo
9/19/2011 - Longs Pk - unknowns (MOT)
10/2/2011 - Mt Democrat - Denise Ivan-Antus (1st 14er)
10/7/2011 - California Pk - Britt Jones
10/23/2011 - Isolation Pk - Darrin Nicholas & Otina Fox
12/11/2011 - Mt Silverheels - Britt Jones, Rob Duckles, Kate Fincutter, Bob Fincutter, Eric Sangueza & unknowns (CC)
12/26/2011 - Humboldt Pk - Jeff Golden, Matt Speth, Nick Gianoutsos, Natalie Moran, Clay Wyatt, Dillon Sarnelli & Lynn "LynnKH" (CC)
1/8/2012 - Mosquito Pk, Treasurevault Mtn, Mt Tweto & Kuss Pk - Jon Frohlich, Dave Mattingly & Aaron "AndYouSeeMe" (CC)
3/17/2012 - Mt Antero - "bigredpride" (CC)
3/24/2012 - Cronin Pk - solo
4/8/2012 - Pacific Pk & Atlantic Pk - Boyd van Voorhis
4/22/2012 - Mt Sherman & Dyer Mtn - Britt Jones, Bill Wood, Richard Miller, Dave Mattingly & unknowns (CC)
4/29/2012 - Mt Harvard - Boyd van Voorhis, Jen Econopouly & unknown
5/5/2012 - Horn Pk - unknowns, 14ers Spring Gathering (LG)
5/6/2012 - Obstruction Pk - solo
5/12/2012 - Castle Pk - Greg Fischer, Dillon Sarnelli & Jeff Golden
5/25/2012 - Mt Columbia - Chris Gilsdorf
5/27/2012 - Rio Grande Pyramid - Chris Gilsdorf, Britt Jones, Dave Mattingly, Steve Gladbach & unknowns (my last summit with Steve)
5/28/2012 - Phoenix Pk - Chris Gilsdorf
6/3/2012 - Clinton Pk, Traver Pk & McNamee Pk - Mike "denvermikey" (CC)
6/9/2012 - Mt Yale - Jen Econopouly
6/17/2012 - Blanca Pk - solo
6/18/2012 - Little Bear Pk via the Hourglass - unknown (CC)
6/23/2012 - Wilson Pk - solo
6/24/2012 - Mt Sneffels - solo
7/18/2012 - Ypsilon Mtn & Mt Chiquita - solo
7/21/2012 - Torreys Pk - Natalie Moran, Dave Mattingly, my brother & unknowns, via Kelso Ridge
7/24/2012 - North Arapaho Pk & South Arapaho Pk - solo
7/26/2012 - Mt Powell - my brother
7/28/2012 - Hagues Pk & Fairchild Mtn - Matt Ellis
8/4/2012 - Longs Pk - solo
9/9/2012 - Kit Carson Mtn & Challenger Pt - Natalie Moran via North Ridge
10/6/2012 - Vermillion Pk & Fuller Pk - solo
10/20/2012 - Emerald Pk & Iowa Pk - Britt Jones, Randal Martin, Ryan Richardson & unknowns
11/24/2012 - Mt Oklahoma - Britt Jones, Ryan Richardson & unknowns
12/1/2012 - French Mtn, Casco Pk & Frasco Benchmark - Otina Fox, Jon "fepic1" & unknowns
1/6/2013 - Mt Lady Washington - solo
4/28/2013 - Mt Sniktau - solo
5/11/2013 - Espirit Pt - solo ski from summit, 14ers Spring Gathering
6/--/2013 - Bushnell Pk & Twin Sisters, North - Otina Fox (MOT)
7/--/2013 - Huerfano Pk & Iron Nipple - solo
7/4/2013 - West Elk Pk - solo
8/8/2013 - Huron Pk - Jack Eglet (1st 14er)
8/11/2013 - Kit Carson Mtn & Challenger Pt - my brother via North Ridge
8/18/2013 - Grizzly Pk (13,427') & Cupid - solo
8/24/2013 - North Apostle - Jason Sayre, Ryan Richardson & unknowns
10/12/2013 - West Buffalo Pk & East Buffalo Pk - Sanja Nakovski, Jane Reuteler-Schmid, Dave Johnson & unknowns (CC)
11/2/2013 - Quandary Pk - 14ers Winter Welcomer (LG), my last summit with Jim DiNapoli
4/12/2014 - Southwest Lenawee - solo
5/5/2014 - Mt Sniktau - solo
6/1/2014 - Mt Bross - solo
6/15/2014 - Isolation Pk - Dave Mattingly
6/21/2014 - Hassell Pk - solo
6/28/2014 - Mt Hope - solo
7/4/2014 - West Spanish Pk - Jon Frohlich
7/20/2014 - Crestone Needle - my brother
7/27/2014 - Whale Pk - solo
8/9/2014 - Hagues Pk & Mummy Mtn - Ryan Horne & Cameron Miller
8/16/2014 - Pikes Pk - Pikes Ascent half marathon
8/23/2014 - Pacific Pk & Atlantic Pk - Ryan Horne & unknowns (MOT)
8/30/2014 - Columbia Pt & Obstruction Pk - solo
9/14/2014 - Mt of the Holy Cross, Holy Cross Ridge & UN 13,428' - Chris Gilsdorf (14er finisher), Brad "mountain-ninja" (14er finisher), "spiderman", Teddy Elam (14er finisher), Ryan Richardson & unknowns
9/20/2014 - Lackawanna Pk & UN 13,660' - unknown (MOT)
10/25/2014 - Torreys Pk - Boyd van Voorhis via Kelso Ridge
11/1/2014 - Quandary Pk - Derek Freed, Brian Core, Ryan Horne (1st 14er), 14ers Winter Welcomer (LG)
12/13/2014 - Mt Bierstadt - Ryan Horne
3/7/2015 - Grizzly Pk (13,427') & Cupid - Shawn Donnelly, Dave Mattingly, Derek Freed & Jay Dahl
3/14/2015 - Mt Yale - Dave Mattingly
3/28/2015 - Mt Sniktau - Ryan Horne & Rachel Akey
3/29/2015 - Mt Lady Washington - Ilene Carpenter
4/5/2015 - Southwest Lenawee - Dave Johnson
5/2/2015 - Grays Pk - solo ski from summit
5/23/2015 - Mt Elbert - Derek Freed, ski from summit
6/27/2015 - Parry Pk, James Pk, Mt Bancroft, Mt Flora & Mt Eva - Derek Freed, car shuttle Berthoud Pass to St Marys Glacier
7/11/2015 - Pyramid Pk - Boyd van Voorhis, my brother
7/12/2015 - Castle Pk - Senad Rizvanovic & Brian Core (MOS)
7/18/2015 - Mt Belford, Mt Oxford & Missouri Mtn - solo
7/19/2015 - Mt Shavano & Tabeguache Pk - solo
7/24/2015 - North Maroon Pk - Mike Woodland (14er finisher) & unknowns (MOT)
7/25/2015 - West Buffalo Pk & East Buffalo Pk - solo
7/26/2015 - Mt Audubon - Carmen Messina
8/1/2015 - Maroon Pk - Rob Duckles (MOT) & Ryan Schrock (MOS)
8/8/2015 - Longs Pk - solo via the Loft
8/9/2015 - Hagues Pk, Fairchild Mtn & Mummy Mtn - Sanja Nakovski
8/15/2015 - Pikes Pk - Pikes Ascent half marathon
8/16/2015 - Mt Guyot - Derek Freed & Todd Schulze
8/22/2015 - Mt Evans, Mt Bierstadt, Mt Spalding & the Sawtooth - Drew Gramer (MOT)
8/29/2015 - Mt Wilson & El Diente - solo traverse, joined 2 unknowns (MOT) for Wilson summit pitch
9/26/2015 - Quail Mtn - Derek Freed
10/1/2015 - South River Pk - solo
10/11/2015 - Copeland Mtn - Senad Rizvanovic & Otina Fox
10/31/2015 - Quandary Pk - Rachel Akey (1st 14er), 14ers Winter Welcomer (LG)
1/23/2016 - Mt Antero - Shawn Donnelly
3/5/2016 - Humboldt Pk - Terry Richardson & Shawn Donnelly
4/8/2016 - Cupid - solo
4/21/2016 - Mt Elbert - solo
5/5/2016 - Mt Bross - solo
5/12/2016 - Mt Democrat - solo
6/11/2016 - Torreys Pk - solo via Kelso Ridge
6/18/2016 - Cronin Pk & Mt White - Ryan Richardson
6/26/2016 - Pettingell Pk - Sanja Nakovski
7/7/2016 - Grays Pk & Torreys Pk - Ryan Horne & Rachel Akey via Kelso Ridge
7/10/2016 - Rosalie Pk - Derek Freed
7/31/2016 - Longs Pk - Ryan Horne & Rachel Akey via the Loft
8/19/2016 - Windom Pk & Sunlight Pk - solo
9/4/2016 - North Eolus & Eolus - Sanja Nakovski
We planned for a 5:30 start time but after setting out to not far from the Weminuche Wilderness boundary, rain, thunder, and lightning send us back to our campsite to wait it out until about 6:30. entering Chicago Basin
At about 9:00 nearing treeline in Chicago Basin, the rain and thunder resume, with a bit of graupel thrown in just for good measure. We shelter under a tree, waiting, waiting, waiting, and discuss the possibility of retreating to camp and trying again the next day. Sanja already finished the 14ers, so she doesn't need these summits as much as I do. After summiting Windom and Sunlight two weeks prior, and bailing without getting North Eolus and Eolus, my need becomes overwhelming. It is now 9:30, I know that the remaining distance and gain is within my capability. I do not want to bail. The only thing that can stop me now is the volatile and unpredictable weather that the San Juans are renowned for. This needs to happen. This needs to happen now. approaching the headwall below the lakes looking southwest across the basin at potentially ominous clouds the sky is changing minute by minute as I hike up the trail nearing the North Eolus / Eolus saddle I don't like what I'm looking at here people ascending and descending, it's a busy place up here
It is now 11:30. I can't see what is developing behind Eolus, the wind is whipping overhead, but still no rain or thunder. As "finishing" on an unranked 14er doesn't feel like actually finishing (per the opinion of many, including the CMC), I head for North Eolus first. It is a relatively easy hike up to the summit, from which the following three pics were taken. Sunlight, Sunlight Spire, Windom at center foreground, Rio Grande Pyramid at left background Jagged at center foreground, assorted Weminuche at background more Weminuche
The weather is holding, for now, as I descend back to the saddle. It's beginning to feel like this is actually happening. hikers seen on the "catwalk" from the saddle to Eolus final pitch to Eolus summit North Eolus
This last section becomes more complex than I expected. There are parallel and intersecting ramps and ledges. I top out on the ridge crest, then retreat back to the cairned route(s). There is some exposure, but none of the moves exceed class 3, and almost everything I touch is solid. Surprisingly, there is nobody ascending or descending above me. And before I know it, I am standing on top of Mt Eolus at elevation 14,083 feet, the 54th of 54 "officially" ranked Colorado 14ers and the 58th of the 58 that many consider included on the finisher checklist.
I am all alone here. As I was on the summits of North Eolus, Sunlight, Windom, and many summits before that. I don't really know what this means, if anything. Beyond a certain sense of personal accomplishment, and the prior encouragement and subsequent congratulations from people I know, maybe it doesn't mean anything. But the one thing I do know, is that it is now 12:30, and it is time to go down.
Sanja had waited out the weather for a bit, and I meet her on the trail below the saddle. After some discussion, disagreement, and agreement, it is decided that we will not camp another night at Needleton. Instead we will pack up and pack out, making this a 27+ mile day. This is where I came up with the trip report title, which if you were wondering, is the title of a non-fiction book by the late David Foster Wallace. Needle Creek seen from the bridge looking north up the Animas River valley on the hike out
No trip report of mine would be complete without some music, therefore I provide you with some David Bowie (he died earlier this year in case you forgot), an album outtake recorded around the time of the Young Americans album. He doesn't dance, and he doesn't play guitar in this video, he just stares at you with that permanently dilated pupil while you listen to his song.
After today? I don't know what happens after today. Hiking repeats with friends who haven't summited those peaks yet. Making new friends and hiking peaks with them. Hiking random things of interest to me that don't necessarily progress toward the completion of another list. Having no expectations. Or even discovering new expectations (of myself) that I didn't know I had. I don't have to decide that now.
This concludes this trip report. As always, thank you for your participation, and thanks for reading...
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
I like the words you wrote and your take on expectations. Nice job, Brian!
I forgot about hiking Humboldt with you -- for some reason I only remembered Shavano in Feb (?) of 2012.
But that's quite the list you came up with! I don't think I could make a list like that, but I wish I could if I had taken notes after each hike I've done with friends and/or strangers.
Was wondering when I would see this. I identify with your "After today..." I also want to keep meeting new and previous friends and climb something together. Enjoyed the two hikes we did this summer. All the best for future climbs!
Great recap, but I expect to see you finish the Cents by next fall and perhaps the 7 summits by 2020. Best of luck on those lists and I can't wait to see the satisfaction grow within you!
Looking at that list, you certainly get around. A human Bangkok tuk tuk. We've got another 14er Celebrity on our hands.
You rebel with your UN-expectations. I love your write up and history here. Your thoughts and reflections are much deeper than you lead on and I love that about you. It's been a pleasure to climb with you and to be your friend. Climb on....
That's a lot of work for a pointless exercise. You may like this quote from the movie Contact: "See, in all our searching, the only thing we've found that makes the emptiness bearable is each other." So thanks for including me in your journey.
Looks like you had to go through Purgatory (Flats) and explore your Animas (River) to get to the Gestalt of finishing the list!
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