Peak(s):  Gibbs Pk A  -  13,553 feet
Date Posted:  07/08/2016
Date Climbed:   06/13/2016
Author:  gore galore
 With Albert Ellingwood On Gibbs Peak, Sangre de Cristos, 1916  

Gibbs Peak, 13,553
by gore galore

One hundred years ago this month of this year Albert Ellingwood led a party of eight of which six were women on an extraordinary expedition to the Sangre de Cristo Range "in high spirits, fed in part by tales of peaks unclimbed and peaks unclimbable" as Ellingwood would later write.

I had long known about Albert Ellingwood's place in Colorado mountaineering history mainly because of the names Ellingwood Peak, Ellingwood Ridge on La Plata Peak and the Ellingwood Arete on the Crestone Needle and most notably the first ascent of Lizard Head Peak and the ascents of Kit Carson Peak, Crestone Peak and Crestone Needle commonly noted as the last fourteeners to be climbed in Colorado. But I really didn't know much about Albert Ellingwood himself.

I had mainly thought of those climbs in 1916 of Kit Carson and the Crestones that Albert had simply showed up with some others and began climbing away and nailing those peaks in something of the sense of a modern day peak bagging excursion. But it was nothing like that at all and in some respects was an unprecedented expedition of its time.

Sometime in the year 2010 the exact date of which I don't remember I happened to be at the American Mountaineering Center in Golden when I noticed a small gathering of people seated in the entrance to the American Mountaineering Museum. There was a speaker standing who I would learn was Jeff Arnold and to his right an older gentleman seated whom I would learn was Robert Ellingwood. The subject of this gathering was Mr. Arnold's recently self published book "Albert Ellingwood: Scholar of Summits" and his guest Robert Ellingwood was the son of Albert Ellingwood.

It was to me a most revealing talk about the reminiscences and anecdotes of the life of Albert Ellingwood by the author and Ellingwood's son. There were no slides or power point presentations just a talk of about an hour or so. I asked a few questions at the end and bought Mr. Arnold's book and had both he and Robert sign the copy. I then began to learn a lot more about Albert Ellingwood.

I learned from the book and also Albert's "Notes on 1916 Sangres Trip" at the A.A.C. Library and the article Albert wrote in 1925, "Climbing in the Sangre de Cristo" in the Colorado Mountain Club's "Trail and Timberline" magazine that Albert had climbed Gibbs Peak on the east side of the Sangre de Cristos as the first peak climbed on his expedition.

This peak began to interest me and I had the idea to eventually climb Gibbs Peak to get a sense of the magnitude of this historic expedition. But first I had to understand something of how Albert got to the Wet Mountain Valley from Colorado Springs in 1916 and then I drove down to the valley from Dillon in 2016 to intersect with something of Ellingwood's route to Gibbs Peak.

It was in some ways a remarkable group and other ways an unlikely group that gathered at Stratton Park, a trolley stop in Colorado Springs on July 8, 1916. There was Albert Ellingwood who was an Instructor of Political Science at Colorado College and Eleanor Davis was a woman's physical education teacher at the college.

Joseph Deutschbein was a student of the college from Holland. Albert would spell his name as Jo in his 1925 article. Eleanor Bartlett was also a student at the college. Joseph's sister, Marie Deutschbein worked in the college library. Sarah Davis was Eleanor Davis' sister. Frances M. Rogers was referred to as "Bee" in Albert's 1925 article. Albert's wife Rea would participate in the first part of the expedition from Colorado Springs to Crestone and the Willow Creek Lake camp.

All of them were younger than Albert who was twenty-nine and Eleanor Davis was thirty-one. Most had hiked with Albert in the Colorado Springs area. But besides Albert only Eleanor Davis and Joe Deutschbein had any practical mountaineering experience.

There is a wonderful photograph in the book "Roof of the Rockies" taken of the group at Stratton Park on the day of their departure. All are wearing broad brimmed hats except Joe who is holding a long-handled shovel. The women are about evenly divided as to wearing dresses and pants. Several have unwieldy looking blanket rolls tied around their shoulders and hanging below their waists. There is a pack burro with gear tied to its back which one woman is attending to. A canvass tent was packed for the burro to carry for part of the trip.

In those days Albert wore a canvass jacket and trousers. He covered himself with a poncho when it rained and got wet. He used a blanket roll for sleeping and carried a canvass tarp for shelter. Albert wore knee-high work boots studded with Swiss edging nails for climbing. He used an 80-foot hemp rope for the static belays of the time.

July 8 - The party packs and leaves Stratton Park in the afternoon.
Later Rea and Sarah take the heavy camp gear and the burro by train from Colorado Springs to Crestone.

July 9, 10 - Albert, Eleanor Davis, Eleanor Bartlett, Jo, Marie and Bee began walking from Colorado Springs over Victor Pass to Canon City. They covered the 30 plus miles in two days. According to Albert the last 8-10 miles Eleanor B., Marie and Jo "pretty weary." Albert carries Eleanor B.'s bed last 7 miles.

July 11 - Albert and Bee walk the 11 miles from Canon City to the train station at Parkdale to save on train fare. Eleanor D., Eleanor B., Jo and Marie ride the train to Parkdale where they all continue to Texas Creek. They take a branch line running south to Hillside in the Wet Mountain Valley where they camp on Brush Creek.

July 12 - They cross a ridge to the north and camp at timberline.

In June of 2016 I drove from Dillon through South Park to Parkdale to intersect with Ellingwood's route of 1916. I turned off the highway to the rafting put in at the rivers edge and looked across to the train tracks on the opposite side perhaps thinking I could see the remains of the train station but there was nothing of the sort. I did the same at Texas Creek crossing the river on a one lane bridge but all that was left of Ellingwood's passing of one hundred years ago were the tracks of the Rio Grande Railroad.

There was no indication of a spur route as I turned south into the Wet Mountain Valley to the tiny hamlet of Hillside, a collection of some cabins, post office/gift store and Grange Hall. But there was Gibbs Peak across the way as the most prominent peak of the Sangre de Cristo Range as seen from this part of the valley.

I drove the five miles from Hillside to the Ducket Creek trail head where I slept the night. In the morning I hiked the Rainbow Trail for eight miles to the South Brush Creek Trail and then another three miles into the upper valley with a camp in line with Gibbs Peak.

July 13 - Albert wrote briefly about his ascent of Gibbs Peak in "Trail and Timberline" magazine. "We crossed the range from Hillside by the Brush Creek trail, climbing Gibbs Peak as we went." Eleanor Davis climbs Gibbs Peak with Albert. The party descends the Cotton Creek Trail to camp.

I have to think from my campsite of the question why did Albert choose to go to Hillside and cross the range on foot to get to Crestone when he could have gone directly there to climb the Crestone Peaks? I would eventually learn the reason was to save on train fare because according to Eleanor Davis "we didn't have much cash in those days."

But my thoughts were dissipated in the morning when I crossed the swollen South Brush Creek on a log and then into the timber on a course following Horseshoe Bend Creek where I hoped to gain the northwest slopes high in the basin. But my hopes were dashed by the hidden snow pack that lay deep in the timber and after two hours of mostly post holing I had to admit defeat.

What I lacked in Ellingwood's toughness that day, I made up in determination a week later. This time I started at the Gibson Creek trail head of the Rainbow Trail and hiked the eight miles of which the last three and a half miles were on the mayhem of the dead fall of the non maintained Texas Creek Trail where I camped at the high tarn in the basin.

I have to say my climb of Gibbs Peak was one of the strangest weather related ascents I have made. I noticed the wind rocking my tent before I woke to the clear and sunny skies. I made my way into the upper basin where I met the full force of the wind. It was unrelenting and seemingly came out of nowhere. By the time I made the ridge my gloved hands had become cold, the left side of my face under my hood was wind burnt and my left eye under my sun glasses was stinging from the force of the wind which hurled me along like a paper plate.

When I made it to the summit ridge of broken rock I dared not stand up for fear the wind would blow me off balance and twist me in some unrecognizable fashion in the rocks. I stayed low on all fours and sort of turtled my way to the summit where thankfully there was a large enough carin to block most of the wind.

I had hoped to spend some time on this historic summit but I only had a short time to orient Pikes Peak for the distance Albert had traveled to Hillside in the Wet Mountain Valley and then to look south at the Sangre de Cristo Range where he would make his historic ascents. It was an overwhelming sight to face.

But now I had to face the force of the wind as I turtled my way off the summit and then let the wind blow me off the ridge like a paper plate and down into the basin where I gained final respite from this wind.

Gibbs Peak was as far as I would go with Albert on his 1916 expedition but I will continue in this report of what Ellingwood's party accomplished in the remainder of that expedition one hundred years ago.

July 14 - Crossed ranch on Rito Alto Creek to Crestone meeting Rea and Sarah there.

July 15, 16 - Hired pack burros and went to a campsite high on Willow Creek.

July 17 - Moved camp higher to Willow Creek Lake.

July 18 - Repaired gear.

July 19 - Albert, Eleanor Davis and Bee off for the Crestone Pks as Kit Carson was called in those days. They followed the northwest ridge to the long north summit of the peak on an "easy going + easy pace all way" to the "Top of N. Pk." This peak is known today as Challenger Point. They descended a narrow ridge to the south to a saddle and thence a sloping ledge with the width of a boulevard along the west face of the middle or main peak. They ascended the southwest arete of some three hundred feet on rope - "good razor edge on top" to the highest point. Easy descent southeast to west saddle and with very slow work down snow and ice couloir to northeast. Rough scrambling down to camp at Willow Creek Lake.

Albert would write in an often quoted passage in his article in "Trail and Timberline" magazine of the view especially of the Crestone Needles that "No other mountains in our State are quite so picture-bookish, quite so like the idealized representations of what mountains ought to be."

July 20 - "Frittering around camp."

July 21 - "All of us" being Albert, Eleanor D., Eleanor B., Jo, Bee, Marie, Sarah and Rea climbed the westernmost of two symmetrical sentinels above camp. "Some of us" being Albert, Eleanor Davis and Bee dropped to the saddle and went up the eastern one as well. This was the first known ascent of Mount Adams and its 13,548 western shoulder.

July 22 - Albert and Eleanor Bartlett climbing rocks.

July 23 - "The more energetic of the party," Albert, Eleanor Davis, Eleanor Bartlett, Marie, Bee and Jo leave for a camp on Spanish Creek "determined to make a test of the unclimbability of the Crestones."

July 24 - Albert, Bee, Eleanor Davis and Jo begin the climb of Crestone Peak by the north arete. Where the arete turns west "we tied in on the rope" which led to the northeast summit. They traversed to a saddle and found an easy route to the northwest summit. Built a cairn. Off the summit by retracing their steps to the saddle "and pushing up on easy rocks to the main peak." Another cairn left.

They crossed the ridge toward the Needle to its saddle where Jo left the group bothered by a sore knee. He circled the west ridge back to the starting point in Spanish Creek. Albert wrote of "the ups and downs we had to follow to the Needle's base were easy enough, but rather tantalizing." The last stretch of climbing was some two hundred feet on the west face of the Needle that they found "thoroughly enjoyable" to the Needle's point. Built their third cairn.

They descended the southeast arete to the big couloir to the east and then to the twin lakes in the basin. Heading northward to the high saddle west of Humboldt where a shrieking wind "put the candle lantern out of business" along the ridge to Spanish Creek saddle as they made their way back to camp in "pitchy blackness" ending a fifteen-hour day.

July 25 - They returned over a saddle to Willow Creek Lake camp joining Rea and Sarah.

July 26 - Albert and Bee to Crestone. On return "reading + tutoring."

July 27 - Fished.

July 28 - Albert and Rea went to Crestone for two burros to move camp.

July 29 - Burros carried camp to Crestone. Sarah on stage to Liberty for provisions. Rea went on to Alamosa and home. Rest of party left for Liberty with burros - "fair going through heavy sand."

July 30 - Packed four burros and camped on Little Medano Creek - "slow, much sand, view of dunes."

July 31 - "Sand heavy but steady pace" to Big Medano Creek with poor road to Mosca Pass and up good trail to top and down to camp on May Creek.

August 1 - On road to Huerfano Creek and up Huerfano to Sharpsdale and "feast."

August 2, 3 - A party of five, Albert, Eleanor D., Eleanor B., Jo and Bee and excepting Marie starts up Blanca Peak. Jo turned back before the ridge because of a falling rock injury. They "put on the rope" and followed the ridge in a steady drizzle to the top of North Blanca Peak now known as Ellingwood Peak. They descended to the saddle below the main peak in a deluge of "black rain"and fought their way up the steep ridge in a continuous barrage of lightning when one bolt knocked Albert on his back and "giving the next two a decided thrill." They passed by the summit cairn with the Colorado Mountain Club's brass register without slackening their pace and dropped down a southeast ridge and then turning back to the east ridge to a small peak on the ridge and the steady drop to the saddle between Blanca and Old Baldy. From the saddle they descended to the basin where they waded the torrent of the swollen Huerfano and the marshland back to camp.

August 5 - With Blanca as the last peak the remaining party of six headed home. They made a stiff climb up a steep draw to a forestry trail to the saddle north of California Peak and descended to a camp at Zapata Ranch.

August 6 - Sarah came from Liberty in a hired car to pick up the gear and take Bee with her to Alamosa. The rest made the long hike to Alamosa for the train and as Albert would write "the expedition came to an official close."

So that is something of one of the most remarkable mountaineering expeditions in the Colorado Rockies. Albert Ellingwood is well known in Colorado mountaineering history but those others who accompanied Albert to the Sangre de Cristos are long forgotten and largely unknown today. With that in mind something should be written of the members of the expedition beginning with Albert Ellingwood.

ALBERT ELLINGWOOD was a leading American mountaineer in the early part of the twentieth century and even today is probably known as Colorado's greatest mountain climber.

Ellingwood was also as much an intellectual as a climber. Albert entered Colorado College in 1906 and became the first from the college to earn a Rhodes scholarship to Oxford, England in 1910. He would earn his PhD from the University of Pennsylvania in 1918 and become a Professor at Lake Forest College, Illinois in 1919 and at Northwestern University in 1927 until his death in 1934.

During his undergraduate years Albert had some rock climbing interest but while in England he learned about rope technique in an era when "the leader doesn't fall." He mentions England's Wasdale Head in his 1925 "Trail and Timberline" magazine article on the eastern arete of the Crestone Needle as "the most famous climbing rendevous in England."

Albert also traveled in the Alps and later in an "Outdoor Life" magazine article of 1924 he compared the Tetons to the scenery of Interlaken, Chamonix and the Italian Lakes. When Albert climbed what is now known as the Ellingwood Ridge on LaPlata Peak in 1921 he called it the "Tenfelagrat" presumably for a mountain feature in the Alps.

But there apparently is no existing record of what Ellingwood may have climbed in Europe while at Oxford. I once assigned myself the task of paging through the indexes and contents pages of English climbing journals looking for Ellingwood's name but found nothing.

In 1914 he returned to Colorado College as an Instructor in Political Science but also with the knowledge of rock climbing techniques that few Americans knew of during that time. He would apply these techniques in the many difficult ascents that he accomplished during his climbing lifetime such as on Bishop Rock in 1925 with Agnes Vaille and sixteen-year-old Stephen Hart.

After his 1916 Sangre de Cristo expedition Albert would undertake ten more expeditions to the Rocky Mountains of Colorado and Wyoming, in which he would make many notable climbs. Five of these were to the Colorado Rockies where he would complete climbing the 14,000 foot peaks as the third person to do so in 1925.

He also made important contributions in surveying the altitudes of Crestone Needle, Mount Columbia and Little Bear Peak. His greatest climb was that of the Lizard Head in 1920 with Barton Hoag. Eleanor Davis and Eleanor Bartlett remained as frequent climbing partners on these Colorado trips and in Wyoming also.

Five expeditions were taken to the Tetons and Wind Rivers where new routes and first ascents were made. And as a visiting professor to the University of Southern California in 1928 he climbed in the Sierras with Carl Blaurock as he did with in the Wind Rivers and Tetons in 1924.

The 1924 Wind River trip was the first time Albert relied mostly on auto transportation. They traveled in Carl's Model T Ford but blowouts, beak downs and unreliability of roads were prevalent in those early days of mountaineering auto use. Prior to 1924 Albert relied heavily on train travel, local autos and stages with their inevitable delays and walking to get to the mountains.

Albert and Carl Blaurock's climbing in the Sierras in 1928 is a hardly known footnote in fourteener history. Carl had finished the Colorado 14,000 foot peaks with Bill Ervin in 1923 and Albert himself in 1925. On this trip both would climb Mount Whitney and Mount Russell with Albert climbing Mount Tyndall alone. This was the first time completers of the Colorado list began climbing 14,000 foot peaks in California. It would not be until 1934 when a completer of the Pacific Coast list began climbing 14,000 foot peaks in Colorado. In 1957 Carl Blaurock would complete climbing all of the fourteeners in the 48 states. The 1928 Sierra climbing trip was also Albert's last expedition.

Albert's final climb was of Longs Peak with his son Robert in 1933. It was Robert's first 14,000 foot peak. Albert had faced a debilitating illness since 1929 and died May 12, 1934 after the effects of abdominal surgery. He was only 46 years old.

There is some revisionist history regarding Albert's 1916 Sangre de Cristo expedition. It has been long accepted that Albert made the first ascents of Kit Carson, Crestone Peak and the Crestone Needle as the last of the Colorado 14,000 foot peaks to be climbed. In 2011 Woody Smith, historian of the Colorado Mountain Club published an article in "Trail and Timberline" magazine that Kit Carson was climbed as early as 1883 when it was known as "Crestone's Crest" by a "party of aspiring pleasure seekers" as reported in the "Rocky Mountain News" of July 29, 1883.

In 1987 the name Challenger Point was officially approved by the U. S. Board on Geographic Names. I made an early ascent of the peak after its naming and wrote in an article for "Trail and Timberline" magazine that Ellingwood's route on the northwest ridge to the long north summit of the peak is the same peak when it became known as Challenger Point. Ellingwood called it "Top of N. Pk." in his "Notes."

REA (SCHIMPELER) ELLINGWOOD was a graduate of Wellesley College and met Albert at the University of Oxford where she also studied. They were married in Colorado Springs in 1914. She did a lot of hiking with him in the Colorado Springs area. Although she went with Albert on his 1916 expedition to the Sangre de Cristos for three weeks, she never shared Albert's passion for climbing. It was the longest camping trip of her life. Rea Ellingwood passed away in Evanston, Illinois on January 1, 1975. She was 84 years old.

ELEANOR DAVIS has been called Colorado's greatest woman mountaineer. And in many respects during the early part of the twentieth century she was that by making several notable ascents with Albert Ellingwood.

Eleanor grew up in a family that encouraged outdoor exercise. She climbed Longs Peak with a Swiss guide in 1911 while on a family vacation from the east.

Eleanor was one of the first Colorado mountaineers that was a trained athlete. She graduated from the Boston Normal School of Gymnastics which later became a part of Wellesley College. From 1914 to 1930 she was an Instructor in physical education for women at Colorado College with the last ten years as the head of the department. It was at the college in 1915 that she began hiking and rock climbing with Albert Ellingwood in the Pikes Peak area and at the Garden of the Gods.

It is said that Albert Ellingwood preferred good climbers who were both fast and strong. Eleanor at five feet two and not more than 115 pounds was both. She joined Albert on his expeditions to the Sangre de Cristos in 1916, Elk Range in 1919 and the Sawatch and Mosquito Ranges in 1921. This last trip would include sixteen-year-old Bob Ormes and Eleanor Bartlett.

Ormes who would climb with Eleanor Davis several times described her as "a little wren of a type, very tough and strong and not disturbed by altitude and a damn good climber and nervy." Further, "she was not inclined to ramble on and on about how beautiful the scenery was," since it took away from the experience.

Besides the Sangre de Cristo trip of 1916 Eleanor would return to the Crestones again in 1925 with Albert and two others to make the first climb of the eastern arete of the Crestone Needle now called the Ellingwood Arete. This climb was a part of a trip around the state to climb twelve 14,000 foot peaks of which Mount Columbia was Albert's last.

Regarding her Crestone ascents with Ellingwood, Allen Steck and Steve Roper in their book "Fifty Classic Climbs of North America" would write that "Eleanor Davis was undoubtedly the most experienced American female climber." Further, Fred Beckey in his book "100 Favorite North American Climbs" would state that Ellingwood and Davis were "likely the most experienced American climbers of this era."

Although the Crestones were the highlights of her climbing career, she had other notable climbing achievements. In 1923 she climbed the Grand Teton with Albert becoming the first woman to do so. They also made the first ascents of the South and Middle Tetons. In 1925 she was invited to join the American Alpine Club being the first woman from Colorado accepted as a member to that prestigious club in those days. She would also climb with Albert again in the Tetons and Wind Rivers in 1926 making several early ascents and returning to the Tetons in 1927.

Eleanor also climbed independent of Ellingwood. In 1924 she made a second ascent of Mount Wilbur and also climbed Mount Cleveland in Glacier National Park as part of a Sierra Club Outing that included Eleanor Bartlett. In 1929 she climbed Mount Whitney and Muir in the Sierras and Mount San Jacinto in Southern California also with Eleanor Bartlett.

Eleanor Davis climbed about 30 of Colorado's 14,000 foot peaks with some of them on Colorado Mountain Club Outings and probably would have climbed more of them if not for summer teaching. She climbed some of the fourteeners several times and also climbed the stem of the cross on the Mount of the Holy Cross in 1923.

In 1930 at the age of forty-five Eleanor Davis married George Ehrman and retired from teaching and gave up climbing except for hiking. Eleanor Davis Ehrman passed away in Colorado Springs in 1993 at the age of 107 years. She was probably the longest living American mountaineer.

SARAH DAVIS was Eleanor Davis' sister. She may have climbed Longs Peak with Eleanor and their Swiss guide in 1911. Sarah was also a graduate of the Boston Normal School of Gymnastics. She was an Instructor in physical education for women at Colorado College from 1912 to 1915 when she returned to a teaching job at Wellesley College after 1916. She was "recruited" for the Sangre de Cristo expedition to take the heavy camp gear by train to Crestone.

ELEANOR BARTLETT climbed Pikes Peak in 1915. She was a student at Colorado College and later an assistant in the Woman's Physical Education Department at the college. After the 1916 Sangre de Cristo expedition she joined the Colorado Mountain Club in 1920 and became a more active climber. In 1920 she was on a CMC Outing in the San Juans while Albert was on his own independent expedition. They both with others climbed Sunlight and Windom on the same day.

In 1921 she and Eleanor Davis and young Bob Ormes joined Albert for a month long expedition of climbing 14,000 foot peaks in the Sawatch and Mosquito Ranges. She eventually would climb some thirty-eight 14,000 foot peaks in Colorado and California.

In 1922 she joined the faculty at the University of California to teach in the Physical Education Department. She became a member of the Sierra Club and joined the outing of 1924 to Glacier National Park that included Eleanor Davis and made the second ascent of Mount Wilbur and also climbed Mount Cleveland. In 1925 in the Sierras she made a first ascent of Emerald Peak with Norman Clyde. In 1929 she climbed Mount Whitney and Muir in the Sierras and Mount San Jacinto in southern California with Eleanor Davis.

Her last climbing with Albert was on a Teton trip in 1927 with Eleanor Davis and Bob Ormes. She climbed the Grand Teton and was described by then as a strong climber. In 1928 Eleanor became a member of the American Alpine Club. She attended the A.A.C. camp in the Tetons in 1956 but whether she did any climbing by then is unknown. She retired from teaching in 1959.

As late as 1979 she with others entertained the gatherings of the A.A.C. Sierra Nevada Section with tales of their early climbing adventures. In 1983 Eleanor Bartlett died in Greenbrae, California. She was 86 years old. "She was a delightful companion to be with and a very good sport."

FRANCES M. "BEE" ROGERS was one of five children of Doctor and Mrs. Edmund J. A. Rogers of Denver. All of the family were members of the Colorado Mountain Club from its beginning in 1912. Her brother James Grafton Rogers was the first president of the club. She began hiking and rock climbing with Albert around Colorado Springs in 1915. "Bee" was part of the snowshoe party of Rea, Eleanor Davis and Jo when Ellingwood made a solo winter ascent of Mount Evans in 1916. She was still a member of the Colorado Mountain Club in 1918.

JOSEPH ANTOINE DEUTSCHBEIN was a Colorado College student and as J. A. D. was taught rock climbing by Albert in 1915 on hikes to the Bottomless Pit, on Cookstove and at the Garden of the Gods.

On the 1916 expedition to the Sangre de Cristos Albert described Jo (his spelling) as "a Hollander who had done some climbing in the Alps." I had never seen in print what he might have climbed in the Alps until I found a record of his membership in the "Ledenlijst der Nederlandsche Alpen-Vereeniging" of January 1914 as J. A. Deutschbein of Bloemendaal, a wealthy municipality and town in the Netherlands.

In the 1913 No. 2 issue of the "Mededeelingen der Nederlandsche Alpen-Vereeniging" under the subject of "Tour Reports" Joseph wrote of his trip to the Glarus Alps of July 10-27. He and his guide climbed the Ruchen-Glarnisch, 2,901 meters and then found the traverse to Vrenelisgartli-Glarnisch, 2,904 meters impossible due to the snow and avalanche danger. Joseph would write that "the trip on the Ruchen-Glarnisch under good conditions is not difficult, and not excessively tiring."

He and his guide made another trip to climb the Todi at 3,614 meters the highest mountain in the Glarus Alps. They climbed to about 50 meters below the summit and then reversed because of a snowstorm.

Joseph graduated from Colorado College in 1918. He and his sister probably returned to Holland sometime after 1918 as I have found no other record of their climbing with Albert or others in Colorado.

MARIE ELISABETH DEUTSCHBEIN was Joseph's sister and was a cataloger at the Colorado College library from 1916 to 1918.

And from that evening at the American Mountaineering Center in 2010, ROBERT ELLINGWOOD would pass away in 2012 at the age of 94. He climbed Longs Peak as his first 14,000-foot peak at age 15 in 1933 with his father which was Albert's last climb. Robert completed climbing the fourteeners in 1957. He was active in the Colorado Mountain Club serving as its president from 1955-1956 and was also a member of the AdAmAn club making 22 winter ascents of Pikes Peak. He retired in 1997 after teaching math at CU for forty-five years.

I would learn later that author JEFF ARNOLD was the son of Wilbur Arnold a noted CMC mountaineer in the 1950's and 1960's. I wrote of Bill Arnold's traverse of the Sangre de Cristo Range with two others in 1961 in my trip report "The Meaning of Thirsty Peak." Jeff Arnold is a retired teacher, mountain climber and competitive trail runner.

 Comments or Questions

Love the History
07/08/2016 01:05
Very enriching when it comes to learning more about this great state. Thank you for that very well written report.


07/10/2016 05:38
Why is it that the older I get, the more I enjoy and appreciate history? Maybe one has to "have" history to love it? Thanks for yet another chapter of your book.

Hard info to find!
06/10/2018 13:53
Thanks for posting this. Very interesting and hard to find info.

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