Longs Peak Trip Report 06/21/2016

Report Type	Mini
Peak(s)	Longs Peak - 14,259 feet
Date Posted	06/21/2016
Date Climbed	06/17/2016
Author	gjohnston89

Keyhole Route
Took the keyhole route last Friday, pretty much a perfect day except we misread the previous trip report regarding the Loft route I believe. Set off around 7 am, made it to treeline pretty quick and were having a good day until after the Keyhole. Just a few snowfields super easy and straight forward to cross before the boulder field, then 2 or 3 smaller ones leading up to the Keyhole. Postholed a few times in almost every snow field, nothing serious though. After the keyhole still some snowfields left, some sort of traction would have been nice but we managed a way across without. Slogged up through the trough which was sketchy and exhausting having no traction devices. Finally made it to the narrows around 1130 with cold feet and hands, passed through the narrows pretty quickly, only minimal snow from what I recall. Made it to the homestretch around 1230, and decided that finally without having any traction and the deteriorating snow conditions in the hot sun it was best to turn around and head down finally. Had to dodge a minor snow slide around 14,000 due to the meltoff. Coming back down through the Trough was possibly the most terrifying thing Ive ever done haha. Made it back to the trailhead around 5 with 1 less Nalgene bottle, an empty stomach, cold feet, and a super sweet sunburn hahaha. Moral of the story is don't underestimate Longs Peak. Still was a great experience.

Keyhole Route

Took the keyhole route last Friday, pretty much a perfect day except we misread the previous trip report regarding the Loft route I believe. Set off around 7 am, made it to treeline pretty quick and were having a good day until after the Keyhole. Just a few snowfields super easy and straight forward to cross before the boulder field, then 2 or 3 smaller ones leading up to the Keyhole. Postholed a few times in almost every snow field, nothing serious though. After the keyhole still some snowfields left, some sort of traction would have been nice but we managed a way across without. Slogged up through the trough which was sketchy and exhausting having no traction devices. Finally made it to the narrows around 1130 with cold feet and hands, passed through the narrows pretty quickly, only minimal snow from what I recall. Made it to the homestretch around 1230, and decided that finally without having any traction and the deteriorating snow conditions in the hot sun it was best to turn around and head down finally. Had to dodge a minor snow slide around 14,000 due to the meltoff. Coming back down through the Trough was possibly the most terrifying thing Ive ever done haha. Made it back to the trailhead around 5 with 1 less Nalgene bottle, an empty stomach, cold feet, and a super sweet sunburn hahaha. Moral of the story is don't underestimate Longs Peak. Still was a great experience.

Comments or Questions

KentonB	Melt Faster! 6/21/2016 6:55pm Hoping to do Longs in a couple weeks. I need that snow out of there! LOL Thanks for the update!
rafstar	Rookie Question Regarding Helmets 6/22/2016 1:32am Thanks for the trip report. I will be making my first attempt this August. Some of the accounts I have read about the Keyhole route recommend wearing a helmet. Is this necessary or just being overly cautious. It seems every picture I see never shows people wearing one. Thanks in advance for your feedback. Bob
gjohnston89	Helmet maybe 6/22/2016 5:34am It really depends, id recommend it if the trail is really busy that day and you have a steady line of people ahead of you. If the trail isn't too busy i wouldn't worry about it in my opinion. You won't need it until the trough and homestretch in my opinion though truthfully. Best of luck to you though.
pbakwin	Helmet 6/22/2016 7:23am Not much in the way of loose rock on the Homestretch, but I suppose someone might drop a Nalgene on you!
gjohnston89	Helmet. 6/22/2016 7:33am Hahaha, yea fair enough, and let me tell you those things build up some speed going downhill. I bet it hit at least 15mph haha. I didnt get a good look at the homestretch last weekend, it was still all snowy.
JA_son27	Helmet 6/22/2016 9:21am I would never do the trough without a helmet in my opinion. I've climbed it twice, and seeing those rockets speed by me in the trough had me convinced I made the right move.
Jay521	What Jason said. 6/22/2016 9:28am ^^ Ditto.
rayers1001	+1 6/22/2016 2:47pm Definitely wear one in the trough. People cause rock falls constantly and many of those are above you.
earthinspired7	some $ is worth your life 6/24/2016 8:59am My friend had a bad fall on Beirstadt 2 weeks ago. "Beirstadt is an easy one" yes comparatively...but when you are surrounded by rock and anywhere you fall may result in a world of pain some protection becomes worth while. My friend was fine. He did two perfect summersaults as we headed towards the Sawtooth and luckily rolled on his back pack and stopped his momentum by hitting a rock with his elbow. After seeing that happen I will put my helmet on a LOT more frequently. About to do Longs tomorrow, thinking of leaving the trailhead at 4am. I will have my helmet on and only take it off to air out while taking a break. My head lamp and/or GoPro also stays on my helmet more comfortably then on my head! :D
gjohnston89	For sure 6/24/2016 9:04am Yea i agree with all the above, it was my fiest trip up longs so i didnt get to see the homestretch and trough without snow. Good luck on your adventures though everyone, and as always better safe than sorry.
rafstar	Thanks for the helmet advice 6/27/2016 3:28am Thanks for the feedback on the helmet. I will be buying on this weekend. Safe climbing everyone. Bob

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