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Pearly Gates, Moderate Snow
April 16, 2016
~7.1 Miles, ~5,400 Gain
TH: Timberline Lodge (2WD, ~1-1.5 hours from Portland)
When there are massive spring snowstorms in Colorado, I get frustrated. Really frustrated. Rock climbing is out, ice climbing is pretty much over and, well, scrubby 9ers with two feet of fresh wet snow sucks. I ended up getting a cold Tuesday and pretty much slept until Wednesday. Assuming I was going to start feeling better, the local forecast decided to deteriorate immensely everywhere locally for the weekend.
This trip ended up being a crazy, last minute idea that somehow worked out flawlessly. Gerod ended up having the weekend off and we wanted to climb something without getting swamped in snow. Thursday morning I started to feel better and just stumbled upon the weather in Portland and it ended up being perfect for the weekend. Flight loads for flying standby looked wide open. The solution was clear - Mt. Hood.
We ended up taking a red eye Thursday night and arrived in Portland a little before 1 AM. As it turned out, Enterprise had run out of cars and we ended up renting a van for the same price as a sedan. Sweet, now we can sleep in the van, not require a high camp and not need a second hotel before flying back to Denver. Since we already had a hotel reserved for Thursday night/Friday morning, we drove to our hotel and took a "nap."
I didn't sleep great as I wasn't sure whether my cold was improving. In hopes to avoid the south mountain, The Pearly Gates - the standard route - we had originally planned on the Leuthold Couloir on the southwest side of the mountain. A recent trip report from April 10th showed excellent conditions on the Leuthold. Consequently, a high camp works well with the Leuthold. Camping isn't allowed at Timberline Lodge except if you're sleeping in your vehicle so again, we got lucky with the van.
Since we didn't have to spend half a day slogging to a high camp, we had an entire extra day and we ended up visiting 5 low 0ers and 1ers some of which had some potentially good views. It was still overcast from the last storm and the visibility sucked. We couldn't view any of the high peaks.
View from Rocky Butte
Rocky Butte
Rocky Butte
View from Tabor
Plenty of one way roads, horrible signage and the city being smashed between a large hill and the river makes for some interesting infrastructure while driving in downtown Portland. Since Gerod didn't have snowshoes (he refuses to buy them since he hates snowshoeing) we ended up renting a pair at the downtown REI.
After picking up the snowshoes, we made a casual drive to the Timberline Lodge. In hindsight, we should have slept off some forest service road near Government Camp due to having to pay for parking at the Timberline Lodge. As of 2016 (If I remember correctly), the permit costs $20 for the season (Nov 1- April 30), $6 a day and $11 for three days. Since we're sleeping that evening and climbing the following day we had to buy the $11 pass.
Not feeling great, I tried to go to bed early but ended up sleeping like complete crap. I probably only received 3-4 hours of sleep; I much prefer the juicy 7-8 hours. Between the snowcat grooming all night and people slamming doors and this stupid cold, sleeping wasn't going to be an option. Another reason to sleep somewhere outside of Government Camp.
Mount Hood.
Our original alarm was set for 3:00 AM with the hopes of hiking by 3:30 AM. Due to some kind folks next to us making a ridiculous amount of noise, I was wide awake at 2:20 AM. I woke Gerod up, who wasn't pleased, and we started our hike just after 3:00 AM. So much for "sleeping in."
Van.
The ski resort keeps a specific groomed boot track until the top of the Palmer lift. I must say the packed "trench" was much appreciated. There were two groomed boot tracks and we ended up taking the right pack which required a traverse back left above the ski lift which ends at ~8,500'. As soon as we started the traverse back left, the snow was questionably soft and we decided to ditch our original plan of the Leuthold Couloir. That prior storm, 2 days ago, dumped 6 inches at the resort lodge and 18 inches on the upper mountain. A powdery slog, while sick, along with some avalanche concerns, we decided to stick with the shit show party on the Pearly Gates.
I was struggling upward as we passed a few folks. At first light, I was completely shocked at how many climbers were above us booting their way upward. Despite the fresh snow, the trench was well established. A steep snow slope led to the northern edge of Crater Rock where a line of 20 climbers in single file headed up the Hogback. At last, I started to feel a little better from the cold or maybe it was because the sun was starting to rise.
Morning Conga line up past Crater Rock
Portland with Illumination Point
Ascending towards the Hogsback
Morning light over the Hogsback.
Smoking
Hogsback
Being early season, the Bergschrund that sometimes causes a problem on the Hogsback or snow slope just prior to the Pearly Gates wasn't even visible or a concern. We tried to pass as many people as we could climbing up the Hogsback so we could avoid being below folks in the narrow chutes of the Pearly Gates.
Morning light
Climbing the Hogsback
Upper Hogsback and Pearly Gates
Summit shawdow.
Looking down the Hogsback
Looking down the Hogsback
At the base of the Pearly Gates, we got lucky as no one was above us. We decided to take the left chute as it appeared to be the most aesthetic. Just above the narrow chute a moderate snow climb led us to the summit ridge. Before heading to the summit, we ventured west along the ridge to watch the summit shadow and lofty views of Portland. The rising sun and prominent summit made for some fantastic views. A short jaunt later and we were on the summit a little before 7:00 AM.
Pearly Gates (left)
Sunrise
Looking north. Mount St. Helens, Mount Rainier & Mount Adams.
Sunrise over the summit.
Summit Ridge.
Summit Shadow
Summit Ridge
I was completely shocked to find some chap whose crampons fell off, due to wearing fantastic Sorel boots, pulled a dog out of a backpack. Now, I like dogs but I'm not entirely sure the summit of Mt. Hood is appropriate for a dog, especially one that was hauled up in a backpack. Ok, rant over.
Hipster, Dog, Boots and Crampon - A Soon to be Epic.
Am I a dick?
Our stay was short while some punk, consequently a friend of the dog owner, decided to photo bomb our summit photo. Thanks slick. Maybe I'm turning to an angry old guy? We ended up descending the right (climbers right) gully since everyone was choosing the left gully. As soon as we were down through the Pearly Gates we made quick time back to the bottom of the Hogsback. Surprisingly, still being early, the snow was already softening up.
Crater Rock
Descending.
Crater Rock
Upper mountain.
A fine, long, heel step descent took us back to the Timberline Lodge where we arrived at 8:50 AM. I could tell my cold was taking a toll on me. Gerod being a nice guy that he is, let me sleep in the back of the van as we returned back to downtown Portland to return his, never used, snowshoes. After an excellent lunch downtown, we decided to hike a quality 5.5 mile loop with several waterfalls in the Columbia Gorge.
Wahkeena Falls
So green.
Fairy Falls
Weisendanger Falls
Weisendanger Falls
Dutchman Falls
Multnomah Falls
An early 5:00 AM flight home Sunday made for a quick tour of Oregon. Despite not feeling great, it still was a great trip. I can't wait to return to the PNW for many more fine peaks!
South Side Topo.
Notes:
The Mt. Hood: Climber's Guide by Bill Mullee was a fantastic resource. It did a fine job referencing logistics of fees (parking) and permits (Wilderness/Hood). If I were to return, I would probably rent skis to make the descent much more enjoyable. For those who don't prefer skis, snowshoes might be warranted in softening early season snow.
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
...specially in them Pearly Gates. Nice climb, Derek. Did this same climb back in 2006 I believe and once my buddy J and I had descended the Pearly Gates from the summit, we entered in upon a royal shit%$* of one large roped team falling, slicing the rope of another roped team, people sliding over the bergschrund, and falling into the basin below, and a blackhawk coming to the rescue. We helped out and retrieved folks' gear, but we were more of a nuisance than anything after that since so many EMT and first responders in the area. Beautiful peak, but I guess there is a reason its the 2nd most climbed Volcano in the world (at least that's what I heard at some point). Love seeing some Cascade TRs too. Cheers, man.
Congratulations on climb and great pictures. Enjoyed your report!
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