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Peak(s)  Hallet Peak - 12713
Date Posted  12/28/2015
Modified  01/12/2016
Date Climbed   12/15/2015
Author  moneymike
 Ski RMNP #2   
I had been watching the snow forecast all week. Joel Gratz, from Open Snow, was calling for 10 to 20 inches by Tuesday morning. As luck would have it, my schedule was completely open for Tuesday, and before I had the chance to call anyone for a ski partner, I got a message from Austin Porzak (ap snow) saying let's ski Tuesday!

If you don't already know, Austin is working on a ski project to ski the highest 50 peaks in Rocky Mountain National Park during the 2015/2016 ski season. After knocking off Otis Peak, he set his eyes on the south east face of Hallett peak.

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I drove up from Fountain, the night before, to crash at Austin's house in Boulder (a.k.a base camp I). Discussion quickly arose about the safety of skiing a big line like this above tree line with all the new snow and wind loading. Dan Sohner and I were already in agreement that the line would probably not go down if we got the forecasted snow.

The original plan was to climb Hallett via Flattop, descend the SE face into chaos canyon, then ski out the canyon back to the parking lot at Bear Lake. However, the impending snow dump had me contemplating the only other alternative: ski back the way we came. Austin was still on board with the original plan and super psyched, but I know him well enough to know that when he sees dangerous conditions first-hand, he knows to back off...usually.

After a good four hours of sleep, I awoke to the sight of ten inches of new snow outside. With the enthusiasm of a child anticipating a snow day, I got on with my morning ritual: eat a thousand calorie breakfast burrito, and drink as much fluids as possible to recover from the night before. I've recently grown very fond of the powdered drink, Acli-Mate for this purpose. I've affectionately renamed it Alca-Mate.

By 5 a.m. we hit the snow covered roads of Boulder with our crew, Austin, Dan, Bjorn Bauer, and myself. On our way out of town, we stopped to pick up our friend John Dickey. It turns out, when John is not busy climbing or knocking Islamic militants off cliffs, he likes to do a little backcountry skiing (you've heard his story, right?).

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We stopped at the market in Estes Park to meet with our friend Jesse "body movin'" Levine. Although he is only a few miles away from our destination in the park "as the crow flies," it took him three and a half hours to drive out of the Poudre Canyon, near Cameron Pass, and arrive at Estes Park. He told us of his harrowing misadventures, which included a minor collision with the guard rail. With the difficult part of his day over with, Jesse was ready to get into the park and hit the trail. A superb skier and photographer, Jesse was a welcome addition to our already strong crew. He tends to start off at a moderate pace, but eventually puts it into high gear and can break trail faster than the rest of us can follow in his tracks.

Normally on a pow day, you can expect the Park to be full of skiers. Strangely, we were the only group in the parking lot. Speaking with the other members of the group, I gathered that all of us, minus Austin, were against skiing the SE face of Hallett, which we all assumed would be loaded as hell. Nonetheless, we could still gain the peak, descend our ascent route and probably even find some great powder skiing in the trees.

Feeling good, I lead the pack, breaking trail through fresh deep snow up the Flattop trail. In spite of the fact this is a wide open trail that I had just visited a month previous, and besides the fact that every one of us had been on that trail before, I some how managed to get us lost in the first ten minutes. I must have been on a trail, and I even saw blaze ribbons on trees, but I knew we were headed in the wrong direction.

I told the crew we were off trail. Everyone spread out looking for the correct way to go. As I delayered, my crew took off down a path that had been broken some time before the storm. A couple minutes later I caught up to them, unsure of where to go next. I eventually convinced the group that we should cut our losses and just head back the way we came instead of pushing ahead.

Within another ten minutes, we found the correct trail. We were a bunch of very experienced backcountry athletes who found ourselves immediately lost on the easiest trail in the Park. We had to just laugh it off and carry on...and, of course, blame Mike.

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Bjorn, Jesse, Dan


The air was brutally cold, but breaking trail through the deep snow below tree line kept us warm. Above tree line, however, we knew we had to move fast to keep warm. I'm not sure if that was Jesse's inspiration, or if he was just being Jesse, but he did what he always does and blasted off way ahead of everyone.

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Bjorn, Jesse


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Bjorn, Austin, Dan


I found myself lagging behind as I frequently stopped to adjust my layering to keep my core cool, but my face completely covered. With a slow, but steady pace, I managed to catch up with the crew just as we left the bench from Flattop and began the final ascent up Hallet. The others were taking a breather and bundling themselves up tighter, while periodically waving their arms like pendulums to force blood into their nearly frost bitten fingers.

Having already optimized my clothing situation, I pushed on. My toes had long since gone numb.

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Austin making the summit


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Bjorn, Dan, and Jesse making the final push to the summit


The northwest winds had completely scoured all aspects of the peak except for the SE. Narrow bands of snow lead down to a bench to the south east. Beyond the bench, the face dropped off steeply. We watched as the winds continued to load the steep SE face.

As far as I could tell, all of us, except for Austin, had given up on the idea of descending the steep, loaded, SE face. The mood was somber. We started to accept the idea that we would have to submit to an undignified descent of the low angle, wind scoured ascent route. No body wanted that. Nobody wanted to ski traverse a mountain that is called Flattop. Especially on a powder day like this.

I downclimbed the east ridge to see if I could spot a line down the not-so-loaded north side, but could not confirm a continuous line. Abandoning the SE line would have been harder for Austin to accept than the rest of us. He has too many peaks to ski to come back for this line in the spring, and it would be a shame if he was forced to ski such an unaesthetic line when he's projecting these peaks.

Watching the high winds carry massive amounts of new snow onto the SE line, I told the group I wasn't even considering descending it. I would just descend the ascent route. I had nothing to prove, nothing to gain. However, Austin was sure it could be done. He had studied the route thoroughly. He convinced the reluctant group to follow him down to the bench and look down the line. If they didn't like what they saw, they would just climb back up. The group followed Austin down to the edge of the abyss.

Bjorn was the last to follow Austin and I told him that if I didn't follow, it was because I descended the ascent route. Bjorn was torn between following Austin and following me. He hung out beneath the summit, within shouting distance of me and in radio contact of the group. Just before deciding to descend the ascent route, I realized I couldn't abandon my group. It wouldn't be a big deal, despite the wicked cold winds, to resummit if they decided to bail, and I knew I should be down there in case Austin decided to solo the face. I dropped in, following Bjorn down to the edge of the SE face.

I reconvened with the group, standing shoulder to shoulder, at the edge of the face. We spent ten minutes or more discussing our options. Jesse, who had skied the line in safe spring conditions, was considering the possibility of a descent, but seemed to be leaning in favor of resummiting. The rest of the group seemed to be leaning the same way, except for Austin. Austin was determined to ski it.

Eyeing the line, I started to consider the slight possibility that it could be done safely. The snow pack looked thin and anchored from where we were to a bench further below. Additionally, we could follow a rocky rib that had minimal snow hanging above. I envisioned small hardslabs releasing beneath us. It wouldn't be ideal, but it wasn't something I thought the best skiers in our group couldn't handle.

I discussed this route with Austin. Needless to say, he was on board. I wasn't quite on board yet since I didn't want to be the guinea pig who first tests the slopes. My other concern was the slopes beneath the lower bench that I could not see. I discussed with Jesse, what we would encounter beneath the lower bench. He claimed that if we made it down there fine, we should be able to find a safe route below, whether we skied deep snow to the right or picked our way through a rocky area to the left.

After a thorough discussion of the route, the time came to make a decision. Everyone except Austin was suggesting we accepted failure and resummited. Ironically, it was me who added the other consenting vote. I knew Austin was going to drop in, with or without us. I was confident that we had a reasonably safe route with a very strong crew. In spite of what we expected on a day like this, we experienced no signs of instability and did not see any evidence of naturally occurring avalanches, recent or otherwise. I recapitulated our route, my thoughts of it, and told them I was on board, if Austin was willing to be the guinea pig to cut the top of the line and slough out any slabs.

Jesse agreed to follow. The rest of the group apparently had enough confidence in our decision making and agreed to follow.

Austin descended, and made the ski cut at the top of the snow and below the rock bands. The rest of us followed from safe spot to safe spot, giving each skier lots of distance. The first real turns were made down from the ski cut to a safe spot on the rock rib. The snow showed no signs of instability.

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Austin ready to test the slope. Photo: Jesse


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Me watching Austin dropping the next section. Photo: John


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Photo: Bjorn


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Austin. Photo: Dan



We gradually became more and more confident with the stability of the snow pack and before we knew it, we were charging each section, full speed. Face shots galore!


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I'm lovin' it. Photo: Jesse


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Jesse's lovin' it. Photo: Bjorn


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Bjorn's drowning in it. Photo: Jesse


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Austin finishing the line. Photo: Jesse


By the time we reached the basin below, we all looked like abominable snow men from the non stop, face shot thrill ride.

We knew the ski out of chaos canyon, known for its bouldering and not for its ease of travel, would not be pleasant, but we didn't care. We were deep in our adrenaline high.

A rare and successful winter descent of this face, full of deep powder turns and face shots, must come at a cost. We were thankful for the thrill and for making it out unscathed. We took the mile long boulder field ski with humility.

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Austin pondering what lies ahead in chaos canyon. Photo: Dan


An arduous exit and one broken ski pole was a small price to pay for a ski descent none of us will soon forget.

I wish a big thanks to everyone on board with this trip. You can check out the Ski RMNP project at www.skirmnp.com or on Instagram at @skirmnp. You can also check out our crew's Instagrams: @aporzak1, @bjornbauerphoto, @dansohner, @dickeyphoto, and @reelmotion.



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17


Comments or Questions
SchralpTheGnar
User
after thoughts?
12/29/2015 12:45pm
I’m curious as to your thoughts after this trip. Do you guys feel like you made the best decision or that you were just lucky, a little bit of both? Do you think if you were solo you would have skied the line or gone down the ascent route? Did you discuss any of the decisions made afterwards with any of the other team members?


SnowAlien
User
Seems a bit crazy
12/29/2015 2:39pm
but you guys are pros. What do I know? Way to stick with the group Mikey, you are no longer a lone wolf ;)


Jay521
User
Gotta get me some...
12/29/2015 3:53pm
...Alca-Mate.


moneymike
User
SchralpTheGnar:
12/29/2015 4:19pm
That’s a good question to ask. As I mentioned in the TR, the decision to descend was not made hastily. We knew we had a yellow light, and there was a real possibility of an avalanche. We decided to take the chance, and it turned out in our favor. In hindsight, I don’t regret our decision. Our decision was based on our observations, and our interpretation of our observations comes from many years of experience. It has served me well so far, but avalanche prediction is not a science. There is definitely a lot of luck involved (more experienced people than me have made good decisions and had bad luck, and ignorant people have made bad decisions and had good luck).

If I was solo that day, I wouldn’t have been there. I would have chosen a different line, and consequently missed out on a great descent. However, my general philosophy regarding avalanche safety is "if you wouldn’t ski it solo, don’t ski it with partners." I have very little faith that my beacon will save me from an avy big enough to bury me. A lot of people consider a beacon rescue to be their plan B, whereas, I consider it to be more like a plan z. I never factor a beacon rescue into my risk assessment. I only consider the likely hood of an avalanche that can bury or break me.

I haven’t asked the other team members their thoughts.

SnowAlien: Yeah, it was pretty close to my upper tolerance for crazy. Sometimes a group (the human factor) can lead you down the wrong path, and other times it is good to have a smart and experienced crew to discuss things with. I’m not always a lone wolf, but I’m definitely not done with the solo tours.


moneymike
User
Jay521
12/29/2015 4:31pm
Alca-Mate...giving new meaning to "recovery drink."

It’s not a magic potion, but it certainly helps me consume a lot more fluids before bed and before the hike (without a lot of sugar). It also serves well as a backcountry vodka chaser.


jkillgore
User
thanks for sharing
12/29/2015 9:18pm
One criteria I like to use after skiing something tricky is how embarrassed I would be of the incident report if something had gone wrong.

FR CAIC report on 12/15 was considerable with persistent slab all the way to SE as the primary Avalanche problem. Did that factor in to route selection?

Did you discuss go/no-go criteria at the parking lot?

What was the correlation between airbags and favorability towards dropping in?


bergsteigen
User
Dodging bullets
12/30/2015 11:01am
... until you don’t

Since it’s hard to say without being there, I do hope the group (continues to) makes good avy decisions in the future. Lists and goals are a perfect way to get one self into big trouble. I’ve had friends/partners make bold decisions in RMNP, having full confidence in the snowpack, until it bit them in the ass. They got out ok, I hope this group doesn’t have to experience that.

Good Luck! Slashing pow is always a catch 22 reinforcer.


moneymike
User
You're welcome jkillgore:
1/12/2016 10:30am
Yes and no to the first question. The primary factor of route selection was availability. That face was the only practical ski route on a peak on a checklist. As for the persistent slab rating on CAIC, I feel that is just a given. It shows up in fall and doesn't leave until spring.

There certainly were large slabs beneath us at times. However, the slabs that concerned me the most were the thin, easily triggered but less consequential slabs, and also the possibility of an unknown unstable slab above us on the steep, corniced section that we did not ski. I felt that if any thin slabs went, we could arrest without dire consequences. And as for the possibility of a (persistent) slab releasing on the steep section above us, well, I just hoped that the snow pack was thin and disconnected enough to not remotely trigger it, and that it would not have the ability to run full course. I admit we were throwing the dice on that one, but we had experienced no signs of instabilities by the time we got underneath it. We did plan an alternate, rocky route off that face which wouldn't expose us to the main avy path if we were concerned it would go.

bergsteigen: Dodging bullets is the name of the game. You know about the lines I ski. They wouldn't call it extreme skiing if it was safe. You have friends who have had close calls and so do I. I've had close calls, triggered and ridden slides before. And we both know you've had several close calls in recent years. I wouldn't be skiing with this group if I didn't think they were knowledgeable and responsible skiers, but nonetheless, we'll have to keep dodging bullets until we retire from this game.

In the mean time, let's not be overly dramatic, and just accept the nature of the game. No one would be entertained, including myself, if we just stuck to skiing laps on Quandary. The threat of danger makes it interesting to do and to read about. And as Don Henley says: "It's interesting when people die. Give us dirty laundry."


jkillgore
User
hallet
1/14/2016 5:03pm
Lo and behold, we triggered a small, but potentially deadly slide on the same face 2 weeks later, in low (offically low, but with isolated and expected pockets of considerable) danger. Third ski run of the day, and we thought we were threading the needle carefully enough. Cold and some folks were tired, and we werent communicating as much as earlier in the day. Buddy was moving off the island in image 11. Propagated far from the skier to the steeper ridge wall and swept to the valley. Skier moved off the wind slab before it started to move. This was on 2" of snow 2 days prior but with strong winds. 5 cm slab at trigger propagated to 25 cm at crown. In retrospect, I wonder if going skiers left at the split rock is the safer option with movable snow a possibility. Loading pattern over there is a bit more regular.

FYI. In spring we usually exit the valley on the lower n. face of otis. That turned out to be a decent winter exit too, although would have more slide hazard than the rocky gut.


moneymike
User
jkillgore:
1/15/2016 4:22pm
I think the snow pack doubled in the following two weeks. The low, early season snow pack was a big factor in our assessment. I agree that skiers left would be the safest option. When we were on Hallett, skier's left was mostly dry, with a little bit of wind hardened snow (it also doesn't have big snow fields looming above).

Generally low, but pockets of considerable is what we've been observing too (one month since Hallet). The snow is either wind scoured, wind blown (stable), or wind loaded (unsafe). We just recently skied stable, wind compacted snow on Taylor Peak and Andrews glacier, but observed a natural slide in a steep, loaded section beneath Shark's Tooth.

Thanks for sharing.


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