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None of us slept well the night before. Laying in our tents at ~14,000' our hearts were racing even while we were just laying there. Ah well, after so many trials just getting to this point we were all going to give it our best and try to get to the top. Jason was no longer nauseous and was feeling well enough to go. So, after breakfast and getting our last items packed up we were on the trail at 3:00 am, heading up under headlamps.
We were glad to have hiked up to the Labyrinth the previous day so we at least somewhat knew the route. The familiarity helped us stay on trail a few times in the absolute darkness. I would recommend anyone trying this to hike to the top of the Labyrinth the previous day. Having a feel for this difficult section of the route would only help when navigating it in the dark.
Still, with Steve leading our group we got up and through this section without any difficulties and at roughly 6:00 am found ourselves at the bottom of the glacier just as the sun was coming up! It was time to get out our ice axes, put on our crampons and add some additional layers.
First steps on the glacier as the sun's coming up. Man, this is what it's all about!
For the first time breathing started to become an issue. I found myself counting steps until I could stop and pause to catch my breath. At this point I believe I was taking about 40 steps before running out of breath. Later that number dropped to 20 (and less).
Getting higher!
Our timing was lucky in that we were in the right spot at the right time to see the sunrise shadow of the volcano displayed out on the countryside below. Impressive!
A great close-up of Jason as he makes his way up.
A group of two on the horizon above us had started out from the hut earlier than we did. Steve and myself in the foreground leading our group.
A look down to Jared, Jason and some other climbers. The pleasantly named Sarcophagus (rock formation) to the left.
The conditions varied on the glacier. Sometimes you'd hit a spot where your crampons dug in wonderfully and the footing was as sure as can be. Other times you had to be sure to dig in your ice ax firmly as you just knew your crampons weren't secure enough to hold you. It was reassuring to have the ice ax in case of a fall, but with the glacier as hard as it was and steeper the higher you went, the idea of performing a self arrest wasn't too appealing.
Everyone in our group went at our own an pace on the glacier and as a result we became somewhat spread out. Jared and Jason stayed somewhat together below and Steve and I were in a group a bit higher up. It took concentration to stay upright, keep breathing and continue moving.
At one point at ~17,500' the left side of my forehead began to feel like it was caving in on itself. I recognized this as an altitude issue but it wasn't severe enough to do anything other than monitor it and grin and bear it. Luckily I remembered I had two aspirin in my pocket in a convenient place. I downed them without water and resolved to go slower and try not to exert myself so much. Even before the aspirin could take effect my head began feeling better so I put it down to pushing myself too much and kept on.
Up and up we went, each stopping to rest and breathe as needed until, finally, and at long last...
There wasn't any more 'up' to go!
Summiting Orizaba at 18,500'!!!
The truly bizarre thing was when we got up there we found we were interrupting a mass! These gents had come up the non-glaciated south side of the volcano. Though what the religious significance of performing a ceremony at this height is I couldn't tell you. Nearer my God to thee...?
Steve and I on top.
Hamming it up, a la Rafael Nadal.
The happy summiters.
One of my favorite pics from the whole trip. A pano from the top showing the mass, climbers and the volcano crater in between.
(Click on the image to make it larger.)
A lonely backpack on top of the world.
The tools that helped us get to this point.
As they say, all things must come to an end. So, after about 30 minutes on the summit, snacking and shooting pictures, it was time to head back down.
Soon after starting down we passed Jared on his way up and very close to the summit. After a brief chat we learned that the altitude was again playing havoc with Jason and he probably wasn't going to be able to get to the top after all. Bummer... So, we wished Jared good luck and headed down to meet up with Jason. Unfortunately, our suspicions were confirmed. Jason wasn't going any higher.
Steve, Jason and I headed down more or less together.
To make matters worse our beautiful sunny day had given way to 'low' clouds (relative to our elevation) and then to down-right white out conditions in a matter of mere minutes. I could no longer see Steve or Jason and they were only about 50 yards in front and behind me. We were still in shouting range of each other and were glad to be able to locate each other at least by sound, if not sight.
We assumed that Jared had summited and then descended with two other hikers from Colorado and that their group of three would all stick together and stay safe. So, we weren't too worried about Jared. Later we learned that he had indeed made the summit but he didn't want to hang around and he descended alone. This of course was fine when the visibility was great but when the white out conditions hit Jared was on his own trying to navigate as best he could. Luckily he also found Steve through the sound of his voice and before too long we were all re-united and heading down off the mountain together. Whew...
The Labyrinth on the way down was a muddy mess. We tried but didn't take the same route down in the afternoon as we had in the morning. I got the impression from other folks that taking the same route both ways is probably pretty uncommon.
The rest of the hike out was uneventful. Back at camp it was time to pack-up, load all the gear in the 4WD and begin the bumpy ride back to civilization, a hot shower and a cold beer!
But first, one last chance to use the privy, such as it is.
The next day we were feeling worlds better - a good night's sleep, a few good meals and celebratory beers in us - but alas, it was time to say good-bye to Maribel and Joaquin Canchola - better hosts you couldn't ask for.
Steve had to bug out even earlier than we did to make his flight to Cancun and captured the below photos waiting for the bus to Puebla.
The front of the hotel.
Orizaba in the morning light.
Jared, Jason and I had a more leisurely time of it as our flight home wasn't until the following morning. Taking advantage of the opportunity we hit the old square in Puebla to take in the sights.
Wha...? Climbing Santas?!?
There are some cathedrals in Puebla that have to be seen to be believed.
The below simply called the Puebla Cathedral doesn't allow photography inside but if you have a chance do yourself a favor and check this one out. Very impressive!
A few blocks away is the Santo Domingo cathedral. It may not look like much from the outside but step inside and some truly amazing sights will be revealed.
The alter piece and ceiling.
Not my photo, but this cathedral has some solid gold gilded walls and ceilings. If you get a chance to see this you won't be disappointed!
So, all in all it was truly a trip of a life time - in spite of my luggage being lost. Oh yes, for those who were wondering my backpack was delivered to me at the trail head after we had summited Orizaba! Still, maybe I can grudgingly acknowledge that it taught me something - i.e. what you want vs. what you need to get up a mountain. Maybe it was a reminder of the need to keep things simple in life and how much those around you can be there for you when you only ask.
So, I'm nowhere near living the life of this guy.
... and you can be sure if I'm ever in Houston again, I'll be making all the same jokes about my favorite president - baggage handler gods or no gods!
Well done persevering through some unknown factors! T– 5 weeks and we’ll be heading down there.
So the pano. Is the Hielo landmark that you see most people topping out on the glacier, is that the little sharp point to the right of the pinkish rock on the left side of the photo? Looks like I see a wee little bit of snow just to the left of that point.
for the comments – it was truly a great trip! Timf – we topped out pretty much in the the dirt section to the left of the two climbers in the picture – but PM me if that wasn’t what you were asking. Thanks
Great report! My wife was the one you talked to on the phone when we called Maribel from Puebla after we missed our bus, thanks for helping us out! We ended up getting the summit on Friday, such a fun hike.
Great pics, makes me want to be there...and wishing my foot gets better fast!
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