Log In 
Peak(s):  Flatirons
Date Posted:  10/28/2015
Modified:  11/12/2019
Date Climbed:   10/25/2015
Author:  dannyg23
Additional Members:   FireOnTheMountain
 Gerry Roach's Top Ten in A Day (TTIAD)   

TTIAD
October 25, 2015
+/- 15.5 miles RT, 10,100' gain
+/- 54 pitches, 15 raps
From Chataqua TH
Participants: Ali Rigeb, Danny Gilbert



Enter the 36th Chamber



Image
Me on Fandango (lead by Brian Crim)


Late September 2013 found me at the Chataqua TH trying to find a trail that hadn't been ravaged by flood. Mostly by necessity I wound up jogging up the 1st flatiron trail and when I got to the bridge that leads to the base of the first flatiron I was inspired to try heading up. In muddy trail runners I managed to get far enough off the ground to let fear of the unknown above combine with fear of the known below and downclimbed back into the mud with a racing heart.

Snow flew, and winter passed by - but in late March of 2014 with things starting to dry out again I got in touch with Brian Crim (Brian C) through 14ers.com asking about possibly climbing the 1st flatiron. In an act of generosity I still don't understand he lead me up "Fandango" and I learned two important lessons:

1. With climbing shoes on, I was totally comfortable on a route like that.
2. Learning how to use the complicated rope system that got us safely (and slowly) to the top was going to take a long time.

Armed with climbing shoes and some confidence I woke up early shortly after that and attacked the standard EF of the 1st, beginning what would become a new obsession for me.

Image
First Solo, and my first top ten route (1st via EF direct, looking down on Fandango)


Perhaps inspired by the fact that my morning "run" had become infinitely more exciting, Ali began to show interest in the flatirons too and after a few practice runs up "Free For All" (2nd Flatiron - 5.6) we made a roped ascent of the EF of the 1st flatiron.

Image
Ali's First top ten route (EF direct of the 1st, this shot from the final sections on the north ridge)


For a very brief period, I was faster than him at something - but this summer he started putting serious time in on the various flatiron east faces. Ali will tell you that I climb much harder than he does, but with 1000' of slab in front of him I don't know anybody that can move so well.

With the way his brain works, I'm sure it wasn't very long before Ali started contemplating a big day in the flatirons and one day after down-climbing "front porch" he suggested we try the "Top Ten Easy Climbs in Day". One thing lead to another, and we soon found ourselves talking about just going for the real thing... after much practice, research, and one failed attempt we got it.


The Sharpest in the Clan - Gerry Roach's Top Ten



1. East Face Center - First Flatiron - 5.6 S - 12 pitches and 1 rap
2. East Face - Third Flatiron - 5.2 - 8 pitches and 2 raps
3. Friday's Folly - Third Flatiron - 5.7 - 1 pitch and 1 rap
4. West Chimney - Green Mountain Pinnacle - 5.5 - 1 pitch and 1 rap
5. Stairway to Heaven - 5.3 - 7 pitches and 1 rap
6. East Face - Backporch - 5.6 - 4 pitches and 2 raps
7. East Face - Pellaea - 5.5 - 4 pitches and 1 rap
8. East Face - Fatiron - 5.4 - 7 pitches and 2 raps
9. North Face - Maiden - 5.6 S - 6 pitches and 2 raps
10. North Face - Matron - 5.5 - 4 pitches and 2 raps

* Pitches refer to the number of pitches given in Gerry Roach's guide book (if listed).
** Most of these routes can actually be down-climbed, however we elected to rappel everything believing it would save energy and time.

Image
Our route (supplied by Ali)



He Has No Father to His Style


Note: this section edited per comments from Bill Wright

There is really only one rule for TTIAD, and since it is included in the name (and isn't always followed) it isn't worth repeating. It is difficult to tell how many people have actually completed TTIAD, however through google and with help from Bill Wright the list is as follows:

1990 Buzz Burrell does it first (sort of, he swapped Stairway for the much harder Satan's Slab)*
1999 Bill Wright and Tom Karpeichik are the first to complete the actual Top Ten (also the all-ascents FKT 10h26m33s)
OCT 2000 George Bell and John Prater**
OCT 2001 Bill Briggs, solo (6h31m!)**
2005 Bill Wright repeats with Stefan Griebel**
2xxx Tom Karpeichik repeats with Kirsten Kindt (first/only? female)**
AUG 2011 Kevin Smith and Martin Le Roux
OCT 2011 Dave Stewart and Jon Sargent**
2011 Dave Stewart repeats solo (sort of, he accidentally downclimbed Angel's - not Stairway)*
OCT 2015 Ali Rigeb and Danny Gilbert (we were the first to complete the task with the same start/stop point)
NOV 2016 Kendrick Callaway and Peter Bakwin**
NOV 2017 Darren Smith, solo (New FKT! - 6h28m06s)***
DEC 2018 Bill Wright and Danny Gilbert repeat for the first winter TTIAD. It was damn cold!
NOV 2019 Peter Bakwin repeats with Justin Simoni**

* indicates Stairway to Heaven being swapped with another route
** indicates Stairway to Heaven was downclimbed
*** Darren set a new FKT with this impressive, blazingly fast run through these classics. He also set a new standard, because he started and stopped from the same TH when doing so. Besting the legendary Bill Briggs' previous FKT by only 3 minutes, while closing the loop was a super gutsy move. It is worth noting, Darren downclimbed Stairway to Heaven and Friday's Folly. He did this completely unsupported, finding his water along the way.

Traditionally, the routes are done north to south with a prearranged shuttle at South Mesa and by downclimbing Stairway to Heaven (this makes the route much more linear). With Darren's new FKT perhaps that will change, and more people will opt to go for the RT.

As of NOV 2019, in total it looks like TTIAD has been completed 14 times by 18 different people.


Forming Like Voltron



Note: we didn't do such a great job taking pictures, so often a photo is from either our failed attempt or when we were scouting the routes, and is indicated as such in the caption.

At 2:15 AM I awoke on the floor of Ali's apartment (he's nearly 30 and doesn't own a couch somehow). Realizing that the cap on the water bag Ali had stashed wasn't going to allow us to pour the water into our bottles I stumbled out to my truck and grabbed the one we needed. When I got back inside Ali mumbled something about needing more sleep but I noisily prepared my bag and he soon followed suit. We hopped on bikes and rode into the chilly morning air up toward the Chataqua TH. Once there we slipped on harnesses that we would wear for the remainder of the day, and started heading up toward the 1st Flatiron at around 3:25 AM.


Route 1 - EF Direct of the First Flatiron
FA by Pat Ament and Larry Dalke circa 1960
"This climb is a Flatiron classic of the First magnitude. The route's commitment to the center of this great face is unrelenting for the first six pitches. It is 12 pitches from the low point of the face to the summit, making this one of the longest climbs above Boulder." - From the Roach Guide

Image
View of the first 3 Flatirons from Chataqua - 3rd, 2nd and 1st from left to right (taken on a different day)


Ali and I have each done this route many, many times but something about the 4 AM time frame and the darkness that accompanies causes us to take it fairly slow. We each pause frequently to contemplate the moves we've committed to memory, and when we eventually top out we are both happy to have finished.

Image
Me in the middle of the second pitch (another day, photo by Brian Crim)


We rappel off of the back (something neither of us had done since learning the downclimb) and pick our way over to the 3rd Flatiron via a little used social trail. Ali had dialed in the space between these two rocks, and the hike over was smooth.

Route 2 - EF of the Third Flatiron
FA by Floyd and Earl Millard 1906
"... the most traveled rock route near Boulder. It is the classic Flatiron route and is one of the finest easy climbs in the conutry. Anyone who enjoys moving over rock should climb it." - From the Roach Guide

Image
View of the 3rd from the 2nd (taken another day)


The Third Flatiron is the definition of cruiser, and having warmed up a bit on the First we started to hit our stride. Ali showed me a variation I hadn't taken before where you avoid stepping over the large crack near the summit pitch until the last possible moment - and I filed it away for use in my never ending attempt to get a respectable time trial on the 3rd. We rappelled down to Friday's Folly ledge and performed the much practiced transition to the second set of rappel bolts, the image of which sticks out in my mind as something that might even make Jimmy Chin's 3rd or 4th assistant get out of bed. After the second rap down to the ground, we pulled the rope and racked up for Friday's Folly.

Image
Ali at the rap from Friday's Folly ledge during our failed attempt


Route 3 - Friday's Folly - Third Flatiron
FA by Tom Hornbein (yes, the Tom Hornbein) and Harry Walldrop 1950
"The vertical wall, good rock and superb position yield a climb that is larger than life." - From the Roach Guide

Friday's Folly is a great route, especially for a noob trad climber like me. The crux of the route is the first section, when you transition from the west side to the south west face across the aerate. This is one of the four routes on which we used pro. Although this is technically rated the hardest climb of the day, it might be a stretch to call it 5.7.

I lead up the route, established a belay at the rappel anchors and Ali quickly followed. I think it's worth mentioning here that we considered the end of Friday's Folly to be the Friday's Folly ledge, as that is how Roach describes it. Roach does mention that you can continue the climb up into the south bowl and even on to the summit of the 3rd.

Image
Me creating a rope tangle as I belay Ali up Fridays Folly on our failed attempt


Back on the ground, Ali lead the way to the Royal Arch trail - another well researched transition that went very smoothly. At Sentinal pass, we ditched gear into my pack and stashed it in the rocks. I lead the way up to the base of the Chimney once again thankful for having researched this bushwack so thoroughly. With only the rack on a sling and a few items clipped to my harness, and Ali with a lighter pack we made good time up the steep hill.

Route 4 - West Chimney - Green Mountain Pinnacle
FA Unknown
"This is the best chimney climb near Boulder, and it provides a wonderful change of pace from regulation Flatiron climbing" - From the Roach Guide

Image
Me belaying Ali from within the chimney on our first climb of the route


Another excellent climb, and one of the four routes on which we used pro. After enjoying some killer views of the sunrise framed by the walls of the chimney, Ali racked up and prepared to lead through the pitch. As leads go, this one is fairly bold because the opportunity to place protection doesn't really present itself until about halfway up the wall, at which point an old piton sits next to a crack that takes a bomber nut placement. Ali made quick work of it, and set up the belay at rappel bolts located on the summit. I followed with the backpack in tow, we set up the rappel and launched back down to earth.

Image
Me catching sunrise


Image
Ali leading up on our failed attempt at TTIAD


Image
Ali Rappelling the west face on our first climb of the route


From here we headed directly back down to sentinel pass along our well versed path, and picked up the stashed pack. At this point, the traditional route would take you to Royal Arch and bushwacking over to Stairway, but we turned down to woods quarry, went skiing down some scree, and jumped onto the Mesa - heading south. The day prior Ali had stashed a bag of water at the Mallory Cave junction, and as we filled up our bottles for the long trek south we had the brilliant idea to nab Backporch right then and there. Originally planning to nab it on the way back to chataqua, getting it on the way south let us quickly out-and-back without carrying packs, while still feeling fresh, and in the daylight. We each coiled our 30m ropes and headed up the Mallory trail.

Route 5 - East Face - Backporch
FA by Bob Beatty and Bob Jickling 1956
"The Backporch is considerably more defiant looking than the other rocks huddled around Mallory Cave, and it has a distinctive V-shaped overhang on its east face. This east face is considerably steeper than the average Flatiron slab and the climbing is correspondingly harder." - From the Roach Guide

This route seems a controversial choice for top ten status, and by most accounts it doesn't make the cut. However, Ali and I both love this route and would put it easily within the top 5. The face is considerably steeper and the moves heading up are a blast. It transitions from a scramble, to steep slab, to a layback, to a balanced - all foot step up, to a stemming traverse and on and on. The variety of movement to get up this thing is unmatched. Many also complain of the rock's quality, which I believe can only be attributed to being off route. If you start the second pitch by heading directly up the center of the face, you will end up in some terrible rock (we did this the first time we climbed it). This poor rock can easily be avoided (and should be) by heading left or right.

Image
Me finishing the first pitch on a different day (Photo by Ali)


This rock has two rappels - the second of which is probably the most difficult rappel to load into that I've ever done - it is an airy, and exciting finish to a great climb.

Image
View from the summit looking North (different day)


We jogged back to our stash discussing how much we suck compared to the 5.13 climbers we ran into on the back side of backporch. At the stash we left a little more water and a bit of food and began heading south on the mesa, happy that the only climb we would be facing on the way back was now Stairway.

We turned at the Fern canyon junction and stashed our packs where the trail splits into a Y heading either north, south or west. From here we made our way up the steep Fern canyon trail toward Pellea, which starts a mere 10 ft from the trail.

Route 6 - East Face - Pellaea
FA Unknown
"This beautiful 470-foot, four-pitch climb reaches a rare summit." - From the Roach Guide

Although rated only 5.5 we both feel this is a tough solo. The rock has a healthy amount of lichen, and the easy climbing is interrupted repeatedly by large featureless bulges that require 1 to 4 move sequences that keep you constantly engaged.

Image
Me happy to have found that big flake after the first crux (during our failed attempt)


Image
Ali along the ridge (during our failed attempt)


Image
Me heading up (during our failed attempt)


It is at this point in the day that fatigue is starting to take it's toll on me. When I top out, my first action is to rip my climbing shoes off and give my aching toes a break. Ali sets up the rappel (a single 30m does the trick) and we shoot down to the ground. Having screwed up the bushwack to the trail the last time, we try heading strait west before turning south and it works out perfectly. A short jog down fern canyon to the packs, and we are again heading south on Mesa.

After the somewhat lengthy hike south we stash my pack at the rock field beneath Maiden with extra gear and head south to the Matron. A discussion over preferred Wu-Tang lyrics ensues and pretty soon we are at the base of the north face, ready to get up and be somebody.

Route 7 - North Face - Matron
FA Karl Gufstafson and Skip Green 1951
"This is a splendid popular route on excellent steep rock." - From the Roach Guide

Image
Matron


This route is another well deserved selection for the top ten. It has the unique distinction of requiring a squeeze so tight you must remove your pack, just to even arrive at the base. This is one of the four routes on which we used pro.

Directly off the ground the route angles through a large crack system to a comfortable ledge. You must negotiate a small overhang to get to a tree. This tree marks the standard finish to the first pitch, but I continued past the tree and onto the EF so that we could unrope and finish the climb without having to swap leads. Ali followed, coiled the rope and blasted up the EF.

Image
Me leading up north face


Image
Me finishing on the east face


It takes two rappels to get off of this rock, with the second rappel hanging from tiny, old bolts that require close quarters. We, of course, somehow managed to tangle the ropes in an un-reparable way and spent something like 10 minutes hanging there, untieing and retieing the EDK, and shaking out the rats nest we had created.

Image
Me coming off the first rappel


Eventually we made it back to the ground, down to the mesa and started our trek back north with only 3 routes left to go. Back at the pack stash we drank some water, and then quickly started our way up the scree to Fatiron, leaving my pack behind again.

Route 8 - East Face - Fatiron
FA by our lord and savior Gerry (and Barb) Roach 1972
"This unique 1,000-foot route provides a variety of challenges." - From the Roach Guide

Image
View from Maiden


This might be a good route, but we both consider it to be just part of the approach to the Maiden. At this point in the day I'm pretty burnt out on long east faces, and this is one of the longest damn east faces there is. At the base of the route I shove my aching, swollen feet into climbing shoes and painfully shuffle uphill. On the way up Ali asks - not for the last time - if I want him to carry the rack. I refuse, opting to keep what dignity I can. Ali joyfully skips along ahead of me and sets up the first rappel - because this rock has a rappel right in the middle of it...

Image
Me starting up the route


After the rappel, I continue my shuffle and eventually we manage to top out at the same time (I had a big head start because I left him to deal with the rope after our first rap). We get through the second rap, and head over to the Maiden.

Route 9 - North Face - Maiden
FA Roy Peak and Mark Taggart 1944
"This is the easiest route to the summit of the Maiden. It is an unusual route that consists mostly of downclimbing and traverses across the north face until it reaches the Maiden's easy upper face... ... In spite of its drawbacks, this is an intriguing route on one of the world's finest pinnacles." - From the Roach Guide

Image
Climbers descending Maiden as seen from our vantage on Fatiron


I love this route. Ali hates this route, and it's most likely my fault. The route starts with an easy alpine style knife edge to the "crow's nest". From here, we rope up and begin the two pitch traverse of the north face. The first time we climbed the route I got us off track and we wound up doing some variation that couldn't have been anything in the realm of 5.fun. The worst part, was that I had never lead a traverse and in my ignorance I placed no protection for Ali and he had to essentially solo it.

Image
Most of the north face route as seen from Fatiron (taken another day)


Since that day, I've gotten better about protecting it but we still gain the north face in an unorthodox way. I'm probably not experienced enough to really rate difficulty, but the two move sequence with which we gain the north face is the most difficult I've done outdoors (not saying much) and couldn't be considered 5.6 by any stretch of the imagination - but I love it, and refuse any other alternatives. This is one of the four routes on which we used pro.

Image
Ali looking back on the west ridge (taken on our failed attempt of TTIAD)


After I lead through the two-pitch north face section we unroped and finished along the easy east face. The other reason this route is so great is that it has, by far, the best rappel around. Not even Ali's hatred of the north face can overcome the awesomeness of the rappel. If you have it in you to climb this route, and you haven't yet - then you should drop whatever you're doing and go get it.

Image
Ali on the famous rap (taken another day)


Image
Ali rappelling from above on our failed attempt at TTIAD


If the images of the rappel don't stir something within you, then you clearly have no soul. It takes two rappels to reach the ground, and despite what you might hear or read, both can be accomplished with 60 meters of rope.

From the base we jogged out to the pack stash - and my pack was gone...

We looked all around, and I think ruled out the possibility of a bear or something busting into it. Currently the working theory is that one of the other parties up there (I heard at least 2) found the pack and took it with them. I don't know if they did it under the assumption that it was lost, or if they just wanted the free stuff - but I haven't been able to get it back so far. Inside the pack was some expensive layers, Ali's GPS, my cell phone, food, water, and most critically at that time - my headlamp. With the sun beginning to set we trudged north knowing that we had saved the easiest climb for last, but that it wasn't going to be as easy with only one headlamp to share.

Ali convinced me to let him take the rack into his pack on the condition that we jog to the water stash at Mallory junction, and we made good time to that point. We picked up or stash and "sped" along to the base of skunk canyon to drink the remainder of the water - and I ate the food I had luckily stashed.

I took back the rack, and using Ali's cell phone light headed to the base of Stairway.

Route 10 - Stairway to Heaven
FA Unknown
"Because of its discontinuous nature, people with tight imaginations disparage this route, but only by overcoming discontinuities do we make the crooked strait and the rough places plain." - From the Roach Guide

Image
My wife at the base of the route (probably the best way to make this route look good, taken a different day obviously)


This route can't be top ten. Right next to it, Angel's way has almost the same line but is clearly a much cleaner and better "climb". I have never met anybody with the type of imagination Roach describes, this route's inclusion is universally accepted as a momentary lapse in judgement by Roach.

Now having said all that - it is a very easy scramble, and after 9 routes and with one headlamp between us I'm fairly certain that Gerry likely included the route under the assumption that some day a couple of dumbasses would try climbing all 10 routes and find themselves in need of a break. Thank god we did Backporch earlier in the day, because a route like that wouldn't have been in the cards for us at that stage in the game.

Image
Me on the summit of "Like Heaven" (taken a different day, photo by Brian Crim)


The moon was full that night, but through some terrible luck completely covered by clouds and of no help. We managed the route by having Ali climb behind me with the lamp, and moving in bursts. Often the terrain was easy enough to move without much light, but occasionally we took several minutes to move only a few feet in tandem. We benefited mightily from my having climbed the route with Brian previously, because finding the most efficient (easiest) line on this rock isn't always strait forward. Eventually we crawled our way onto the summit, and down to the rappel. Ali went first and I followed into the inky black. Having only downclimbed the route, we weren't familiar with the rappel and as I couldn't see anything I wound up smashing into the rock and getting hung up in a tree. My rope got nicked on the sharp overhang by my clumsy fall and I couldn't help but think about how expensive this day was starting to become.

Brian had shown me the faint trail which leads to Royal arch and we very smoothly made our way to the much more established Royal Arch trail. For many, this section of woods can be the route finding crux as they are heading the other way and trying to find Stairway but we managed it easily enough thanks to putting in the work ahead of time, and having friends in the know.

Ali suggested we run back to the bikes and I told him it was time to make peace with the fact that I'm not a runner, only I said that in two words of which only "off" can be repeated. I think we got back to the TH around 9 PM for an approximate RT of 17.5 hours.


Shaolin Shadowboxing and The Wu-Tang Sword Style



I've had longer days than that, but I've never been so engaged in technical terrain for that length of time. The amount I've learned since taking this project on is staggering (although I'm still a total noob).

Any one of these routes offers an excellent outing, and the Flatirons are a very special place offering some of the best mountaineering training I can think of. With some reflection, I feel like the TTIAD challenge may have been the best day I've had in the hills and unlike many of the other long days I've had, I would gladly repeat this one.

Image
Sunrise from GMP



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32


Comments or Questions
FireOnTheMountain
User
awesome project
10/28/2015 8:46pm
really fun outing man! cool to have a partner who’s down to joke around the entire time and be in the company of a climbing noob as myself (damn the maiden – sweet lead). funny to think mcmahon was probably thinking of this linkup when we were in that dudes PM transportation class.

man, no mention of the apple pie, next time I’ll just bring multiple red baked potatoes.


pbakwin
Nice!
10/28/2015 8:48pm
It has been a great month for Flatirons! Great job fellas.


14erOHOLIC
User
Fantastic
10/28/2015 11:54pm
Honestly, I stopped reading your text and got caught up in the incredible pictures. First rate!


Brian C
User
So Rad
10/29/2015 5:30am
Great work boys! Now what????


benners
User
Awesome!
10/29/2015 1:37pm
That’s one big, sweet day. Nice shots and narrative and congrats on a great accomplishment. The rap(s) off the top of the Maiden has to be the most fun/unique in the state.


BillWright
User
Congrats!
10/29/2015 9:47pm
Congrats on a huge day! This is a great accomplishment and one that haven’t been done very often, as you indicate.

A couple of corrections, though. Dave Stewart and Jon Sargent have done this in just a few seconds longer than Stefan and I did it. Dave Stewart has also done it solo (though he down climbed Angel’s Way by mistake instead of Stairway to Heaven). Buzz actually didn’t do Roach’s Top Ten because he doesn’t like Stairway to Heaven and he substituted Satan’s Slab. When Tom Karpeichik and I did it, we climbed UP Stairway to Heaven. Tom later did the Top Ten again with Kirsten Kindt, who I think is still the only woman to complete this. Oh, Martin’s last name is Le Roux.

I tried to do these solo in winter (in January) once and scared myself rope soloing the Maiden and decided to call it a day – only getting nine of them.

Bill


Cool Hand Luke
User
Nice Round 2!
10/29/2015 11:56pm
Congrats on the huge day! I bet Abe rode his bike to the TH, didn’t he?


dannyg23
User
Thanks
10/30/2015 10:05am
Ali – The only way I could eat that pie was if somebody stole my backpack with all the other food I had. I ate that pie.

Brian – Something that will require a summer’s worth of scouting missions, and at least one Doctor of Flatirons.

benners – The Maiden rap is incredible – those pictures are amazing and don’t begin to do it justice.

Bill – Thanks, that means a lot coming from you. I edited the "history" section per your notes. If you had the right winter weather, it could end up being reasonable but I don’t think I could do it solo in any season. I assume that means you left Matron on the table – must have been a bad scare on Maiden...

Luke – He did ride his bike to the TH, and I did too (mostly so he couldn’t hold that over me all day).


dillonsarnelli
User
nice job fellers!
10/31/2015 7:47pm
The T Swift subliminal messages may have gone right over my head, but wu tang did not. Another kick ass report Danny. Well done.


dannyg23
User
Wu
11/3/2015 9:08am
Dillon Sarnelli Ain’t Nuthin to Fuck with


Steve Climber
User
Bring the
11/3/2015 3:40pm
muthaf***in’ ruckus.

Nice write–up! Definitely inspiring.

Maybe one of these days, Crim and I will actually make an attempt at this like we’ve been BS’ing about for 2 years now



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