North Maroon Peak Trip Report 10/12/2015

Peak(s):	North Maroon Peak - 14,022 feet
Date Posted:	10/12/2015
Date Climbed:	10/10/2015
Author:	Stratosfearsome

North Maroon - Red, White, and Blue
Lord, I was born a scramblin' man... Howdy 14ers.com! They call me 'Rob.' This is my first trip report, but I have been hooked on this site for years. Thank you all for beta, critical thought, passion, and inspiration. It's high time I contributed. I was out and about Colorado all summer and September finishing the Centennials on my Coloradical Supertrip and owed my friend a mountain climb. So, why not North Maroon Peak? We left Boulder Friday night and drove to Aspen in my trusty jeep. Arrived about 11pm. Fell asleep reading 'Annapurna.' Awoke at six on Saturday. Parked in the Day Use lot and hit the trail at 7:30am. My buddy had never used micro spikes or an ice axe before and I had previously climbed the peak and the traverse so I told him straight up: "If it's too dangerous, we turn around." There was a dusting of snow on all north facing aspects above 13,000ft. We took the main trail, past the swarming paparazzi to the turn off before Crater Lake. We went right (west) then left (southwest) onto the excellent trail to gain the bench at about 11,000ft to the North of North Maroon. We stuck to the standard route, and it was funny to compare my convoluted descent (after the traverse) in August with my second time on the peak. My friend really impressed me with his stamina and sure-footedness. The two green gullies were totally dry, and most of the North East skyline was dry too. When we reached the Crux Chimney with the class 4 move, it was pretty icy, so we skirted left (South East) and found some dry rock to ascend that led us to two exposed towers (10 feet high, two feet of air between) with some sensational exposure to the east. After the towers, we scrambled up rocks and 6 inches of sugary snow between them. We both wore running shoes, and did not use spikes or axes on the ascent. We put them on for the descent. I also brought a 30m rope and a rappel gear as a contingency plan / if the traverse looked good. On top, we ate lunch (it was noon) and I made the decision to not attempt the traverse. There was six inches of snow on the traverse that I could see, and the North aspect of S. Maroon. It was tempting but it did not feel right. On the decent, we took our time hiking down, I took off/put on spikes three times. My buddy was feeling sick (acid re-flux) and I knew we made the right decision to bail but I still felt that pang of regret. (The ego works in mysterious ways) The day was absolutely magnificent, and we ran into zero people on N. Maroon and saw no human tracks in the snow. It was a really beautiful adventure and aside from my friend feeling sick, luck ran with us. We got back to Maroon Lake about four p.m and packed up the tent and I drove us back to Boulder. Originally we planned to climb Pyramid Sunday, but my friend needed to rest. I can't wait to return with my crampons and axes in a few months. This is where America sings in my soul. Adventure on! Rob Coloradical Dreams I slog through snow in the sky. Above twelve-five, I feel alive. Peach-fire sunrise, tears in my eyes. I tiptoe up steep rocks and ice on saber-tooth boots, steel axes in hands. I test anchors twice and yell the 'go' command. If I fall, I'll never land... My life flows into something: a meaningful illusion and a restless feeling. Today is a gold fall day, silver branches reach for the forever blue. Surrounded by mountains, fossilized forms of long-dead Gods, I reforge chaos with peace these towering cathedrals release me and I walk home under stars close enough to touch. Fall 2014 Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

North Maroon - Red, White, and Blue

Lord, I was born a scramblin' man...
Howdy 14ers.com! They call me 'Rob.' This is my first trip report, but I have been hooked on this site for years. Thank you all for beta, critical thought, passion, and inspiration. It's high time I contributed.
I was out and about Colorado all summer and September finishing the Centennials on my Coloradical Supertrip and owed my friend a mountain climb. So, why not North Maroon Peak?

We left Boulder Friday night and drove to Aspen in my trusty jeep. Arrived about 11pm. Fell asleep reading 'Annapurna.' Awoke at six on Saturday.
Parked in the Day Use lot and hit the trail at 7:30am. My buddy had never used micro spikes or an ice axe before and I had previously climbed the peak and the traverse so I told him straight up: "If it's too dangerous, we turn around."
There was a dusting of snow on all north facing aspects above 13,000ft. We took the main trail, past the swarming paparazzi to the turn off before Crater Lake. We went right (west) then left (southwest) onto the excellent trail to gain the bench at about 11,000ft to the North of North Maroon. We stuck to the standard route, and it was funny to compare my convoluted descent (after the traverse) in August with my second time on the peak. My friend really impressed me with his stamina and sure-footedness. The two green gullies were totally dry, and most of the North East skyline was dry too. When we reached the Crux Chimney with the class 4 move, it was pretty icy, so we skirted left (South East) and found some dry rock to ascend that led us to two exposed towers (10 feet high, two feet of air between) with some sensational exposure to the east. After the towers, we scrambled up rocks and 6 inches of sugary snow between them. We both wore running shoes, and did not use spikes or axes on the ascent. We put them on for the descent. I also brought a 30m rope and a rappel gear as a contingency plan / if the traverse looked good. On top, we ate lunch (it was noon) and I made the decision to not attempt the traverse. There was six inches of snow on the traverse that I could see, and the North aspect of S. Maroon. It was tempting but it did not feel right. On the decent, we took our time hiking down, I took off/put on spikes three times. My buddy was feeling sick (acid re-flux) and I knew we made the right decision to bail but I still felt that pang of regret. (The ego works in mysterious ways) The day was absolutely magnificent, and we ran into zero people on N. Maroon and saw no human tracks in the snow. It was a really beautiful adventure and aside from my friend feeling sick, luck ran with us. We got back to Maroon Lake about four p.m and packed up the tent and I drove us back to Boulder. Originally we planned to climb Pyramid Sunday, but my friend needed to rest. I can't wait to return with my crampons and axes in a few months. This is where America sings in my soul. Adventure on!
Rob

Coloradical Dreams

I slog through snow in the sky.
Above twelve-five, I feel alive.
Peach-fire sunrise, tears in my eyes.
I tiptoe up steep rocks and ice
on saber-tooth boots, steel axes in hands.
I test anchors twice and yell the 'go' command.
If I fall, I'll never land...

My life flows into something:
a meaningful illusion and a restless feeling.
Today is a gold fall day,
silver branches reach for the forever blue.

Surrounded by mountains,
fossilized forms of long-dead Gods,
I reforge chaos with peace
these towering cathedrals release me
and I walk home under stars
close enough to touch.

Fall 2014

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

drewski	Thanks 10/12/2015 9:00pm Thanks for the info. nice that you got out to take advantage of the nice season.
Glass_half_full	You Rock! 10/15/2015 8:50am I can feel your passion in this report. Thanks for sharing your day and how great to have one of the Bells all to yourself. Just awesome!!

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