Longs Peak Trip Report 08/24/2015

Report Type	Full
Peak(s)	Longs Peak - 14,259 feet Mt. Meeker - 13,916 feet
Date Posted	08/24/2015
Modified	06/16/2016
Date Climbed	08/09/2015
Author	MtnHub

A Meeker/Longs Tour
A Meeker/Longs Tour August 9, 2015 Mt. Meeker - 13,911' Longs Peak - 14,256' TH: Longs Peak Ranger Station (9,405') Ascent: Iron Gates of Meeker Descent: Standard Keyhole Route Climbers: hr011224 (Heather) and MtnHub (Doug) Introduction: Heather and I both posted a request for partners about the same time earlier this summer. She was looking for someone to share a climb or two in the San Juans, but was also looking to climb Meeker via the Loft route. I would be spending a week in Estes Park at the very end of her time off when I always plan a climb or two up Longs Peak. I generally just take the Keyhole route which I'm very comfortable doing alone. A few years ago I did a loop hike ascending through the Iron Gates of Meeker and then going up Longs via Keplinger's couloir. This is a climb I especially love as it gets in the best of both mountains. But it is also one I prefer to have a partner along as there is more off-trail scrambling involved. So when I contacted her to see if she was interested, she quickly replied in the affirmative. We juggled the target date around just a tad to fit both of our schedules and then we were set to meet on August 9. *The Climb:* In the past I've always climbed Longs Peak during a weekday. This is mainly to avoid the heaviest crowds and I can almost always find a decent parking place in the lot near the Ranger Station. Since Heather could only climb on the weekend, I was a little concerned about getting there early enough for me to have success once again. I know from experience that during a weekend, cars can be seen parked over a mile or two down the road because the lot was filled. The last thing I wanted was to have extra mileage to hike with added elevation gain on an already aggressive climb, so I suggested a 2:00am meeting time on a bench in front of the Station. I knew it would be plenty early for us to start climbing but the parking factor took precedence. I arrive at the lot around 1:15 and although it is pretty much filled, I do find a spot right across from the Ranger Station. In over a dozen trips here I've never had to park below along the road! I check to make sure Heather isn't already waiting for me (she isn't) and then get things ready and just relax in the front seat of my vehicle. At about 1:50, I go out to sit on the bench to wait for her. Heather arrives right before 2 o'clock and we start up the trail. Heather is excited and sets a pretty brisk pace. I can match it pretty well but I also know we will reach the base of the Loft couloir before it gets light so I encourage her to ease up just a bit. But this is still difficult for either of us to do with our adrenaline pumping so hard. Since it's Sunday, I expect the trail to be busy and it is. We pass several groups of climbers and a few pass us as well. Once we get above treeline, the sky above us and to the west is sharp and clear, a good sign. But looking east beyond the lights of Denver and the metropolitan areas, there is a cloud with constant lightning activity. It almost looks like one of those static electricity toys with crackling branches waving out and around a sphere. It's orange and quite fascinating to watch. At this point I also love to see all the other little strings of headlamps twinkling through the trees coming up below us. There are also quite a few little lights ahead of us. Yes, Longs can be a busy place any day, but especially on the weekends. We reach the trail junction below Pine Ridge in an hour's time (2.7 miles). We are flying up the trail, and once again I suggest that we ease our pace just a bit, but again, this is easier said than done. We don't even stop to take a break at the Chasm Lake junction but continue on right away down the trail to the Lake. When we finally hit the junction post to Chasm Lake it is only 4:15. The trail leading up to the Loft couloir is threadier, follows a rocky creek, and is difficult to discern with only headlamps. I know where we need to go looking up at the north side of Meeker, but I don't want to just bushwhack over to it either. We could easily stumble through the thick undergrowth or get our boots wet from the marshy terrain and it simply isn't worth the physical effort at this point. I suggest we hunker down for awhile until there is enough light to really see where we are going. We find a comfortable spot, put on an extra layer, and get situated on a sandy floor behind a couple of huge boulders that shelter us from the chilly wind. A few other climbers pass us by but none of them are heading for the Iron Gates. To entertain ourselves, we chat some more and talk about other climbs we've done. In the clear sky above I see three meteors blaze by overhead. Being a city boy, this is the only place I've ever witnessed them. At around 5 o'clock we feel there is enough light to guide us, so we load up our packs and start up once again. We cut over to a talus slope and begin our climb up Meeker's side. The waning moon is shining directly over the Gates and appears like a beacon for us. Moon over the Iron Gates. Heather climbing up to the Gates. This is my favorite time of the day, when the world is just waking up. The play of light is lovely on the surrounding rocks and cliffs. Alpenglow on Longs. Chasm Lake At the west Gate. We climb higher as does the sun, and its light intensifies with each passing minute, changing the glows and hues in the process. Dawn on the Diamond. The Loft couloir with the Flying Buttress. Mt. Lady Washington with the Mummy range in the distance. As we near the Black Wall we know we are getting close to the ridge. Coming up to the Black Wall. Passing the Black Wall. Almost to the ridge. Then the world opens up to us and we are engulfed in sunlight. The beautiful Wild Basin spreads out to our southeast. We take a short break to get out our sunglasses and put on a little sunscreen. Looking over into the Wild Basin. We can now see the long ridgeline of Mt Meeker we've yet to climb. It is one of the most wonderful ridges I've done -- good, solid rock, gorgeous views with a dramatic cliff edge to the north. The long Meeker ridgeline. ... and excellent views of Longs and the Loft. The Loft and Longs Peak. Starting up the long ridge. At one point the Longs summit was blanketed with a cloud and we were slightly concerned weather could prevent us from doing a double, but the skies held all day for us. Longs in the clouds. When we reach the Knife Edge of Meeker, Heather proceeds cautiously at first. Heather on the Knife Edge of Meeker. But then she finds it quite secure and has some fun! It's really a blast! Are we having fun yet? (I think she is!) Playing on the Knife. (photo by Heather) The exit off the Knife involves some large boulders to maneuver around. There is significant exposure on both sides. But after they are conquered, the summit lies just ahead. (photo by Heather) (photo by Heather) (Heather had to buy a new camera right before she made this trip. She wasn't quite used to it and had some problems with it.) (photo by Heather) Heather heading up to Meeker's summit. We enjoy a short, but good stay on the summit, grab a bite to eat and take a few pictures. But we can't dawdle if we want to hit Longs too. The sharp ridge of Meeker. Twin Sisters in the background. Mills Moraine and the trail leading down to Chasm Lake. The magnificent Wild Basin with Sandbeach Lake. The Loft, with Longs in the shadows. We drop down to the Loft and head over to the NW corner where the gully leading to Clark's Arrow is supposed to be. There are two cairns marking one gully but it somehow doesn't look quite like I remember. On both occasions that I did this route before, my partners in each case were leading. So this is the first time I am acting as guide. I also know there has been chatter about some major flood damage in this area which may have changed things around a bit during a landslide. (photo by Heather) We finally decide to give this gully a try as it looks to be a pretty easy descent and appears that we can traverse over to where I'm thinking it may need to lead. This proves to work fine for us and eventually I do find the place where I expected to be. It actually seemed to be easier than the way I've gone previously. We look for the Arrow and I see what I think resembles the rock face it was painted on, but we can't quite discern the image for sure. I also know it has weathered quite a bit in recent years and is very faint at best. We follow over to Keplinger's couloir and begin scrambling upward alongside the Palisades. I regret that I don't have any photos in this area; I guess I was too busy concentrating on finding the route. It is here that we meet two climbers descending towards us. They were coming from Longs Peak and planned to descend via the Loft. We chat with them for a minute and they warn us that we will have to cross a snowfield just up ahead of us. I was well aware of this traverse and actually thinking about it before they mentioned it. It involves about a 15 foot horizontal traverse along a crack in the smooth slab of rock that lies just below a lingering snow patch. Because of the melting snow there frequently is water runoff in a few places making it very slick. Special care needs to be taken. I wasn't planning to have to deal with actual ice or snow. I don't remember hearing reports that any special gear was needed for this route and just being this late in the season, I'm really surprised that these guys thought we would have to do that. But because neither Heather nor I have an axe or spikes with us, it gives me moment's pause. The duo goes on their way and Heather and I continue to climb higher. All of a sudden a young woman glides up alongside us. She obviously appears very experienced and knows what she's doing. She greets us and then almost effortlessly passes by us. We exchange a few more words with her, and I ask if she would be willing to stick with us until we cross the traverse ahead, telling her I'd feel a little safer all being together. I mention what the other climbers told us about crossing the snowfield. She replies that she is willing to do that but then goes on to say that there is another way around that traverse and assures us we don't need to cross any snow. Since we will be together for at least a brief encounter, we all introduce ourselves to each other. When she says her name is Lisa Foster, I exclaim, "Is that 'Lisa Foster' as in the book author!?" She acknowledges, "Yes, I wrote a book." WOW! I'm totally thrilled to be in the presence of greatness and I'm not shy to tell her so. I've used her book as a reference on several occasions and it is an excellent resource! An excellent resource book! And sure enough, she leads us around to the other side staying wide of any snow or even wet rock. We talk some more as we climb up to the point where we can cut over to the Homestretch. Eyeing a long vertical fissure in the rock on the east side of Longs, Lisa decides to try a new route to the summit. It looks to be at least C4-5 so I tell her I'm content with the normal route. Heather agrees to follow me. So we tell her we'll see her at the top. Heather and I continue onward and merge with the climbers going up and coming down the Homestretch Highway. We reach the summit around 10:45 and find a spot to drop our packs and break out some nourishment. About five minutes later Lisa appears coming over the eastern edge. She agrees to have a picture taken of me with her, and I also ask her to take one of Heather and me. Doug and Lisa Heather and Doug I take a few more pictures from the summit, one which shows the entire route up and over Meeker that we took. An excellent shot of the Iron Gates and Meeker's long ridge. Meeker Peak and the Loft from the Longs summit. Once again, we decide not to linger too long. Although they don't look especially threatening, there are many more clouds in the sky and we wish to be much lower if they change for the worse. Coming down the Homestretch. (photo by Heather) (photo by Heather) (photo by Heather) I always love going back over the Narrows and Ledges again too. Longs is still my favorite peak and I'll never get tired of it! Along the way we discuss how we want to descend after passing through the Keyhole. The standard trail is now very well groomed after considerable trail work a few years back, so it's pretty easy on the feet and knees. But I mentioned to Heather if she prefers to avoid the crowds we can descend a less traveled way, down the Camel couloir. From the Keyhole we would just need to angle straight over to the Lady Washington ridge aiming for the Camel rocks at the low point in the ridge. The Camel Rocks on the Lady Washington ridge. In the end we just chose the standard route which was fine by me as well. My feet were getting sore and it would be good to hike along the easier trail rather than do much more boulder-hopping. The weather held up fine too. We felt only a few kernels of graupel fall on us momentarily just below Granite Pass but then it quit suddenly. The descent from Chasm Junction is rather long and many complain about it, but I still love every inch of it. I enjoy passing by all the landmarks I see every time I hike it. It's like revisiting old friends. A final look at a favorite mountain. We reach the parking lot at 3:30pm and it is good to finally take off the boots. We wish each other safe travels back home and then depart in our own vehicles. It's been a truly wonderful day -- hiking with a super new partner, meeting the author of a book I love, and enjoying a fantastic and memorable loop in our Lord's amazing creation! God is good! Thanks be to God! Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

A Meeker/Longs Tour

August 9, 2015

Mt. Meeker - 13,911'
Longs Peak - 14,256'

TH: Longs Peak Ranger Station (9,405')
Ascent: Iron Gates of Meeker
Descent: Standard Keyhole Route

Climbers: hr011224 (Heather) and MtnHub (Doug)

Introduction:

Heather and I both posted a request for partners about the same time earlier this summer. She was looking for someone to share a climb or two in the San Juans, but was also looking to climb Meeker via the Loft route. I would be spending a week in Estes Park at the very end of her time off when I always plan a climb or two up Longs Peak. I generally just take the Keyhole route which I'm very comfortable doing alone.

A few years ago I did a loop hike ascending through the Iron Gates of Meeker and then going up Longs via Keplinger's couloir. This is a climb I especially love as it gets in the best of both mountains. But it is also one I prefer to have a partner along as there is more off-trail scrambling involved. So when I contacted her to see if she was interested, she quickly replied in the affirmative.

We juggled the target date around just a tad to fit both of our schedules and then we were set to meet on August 9.

The Climb:

In the past I've always climbed Longs Peak during a weekday. This is mainly to avoid the heaviest crowds and I can almost always find a decent parking place in the lot near the Ranger Station. Since Heather could only climb on the weekend, I was a little concerned about getting there early enough for me to have success once again. I know from experience that during a weekend, cars can be seen parked over a mile or two down the road because the lot was filled.

The last thing I wanted was to have extra mileage to hike with added elevation gain on an already aggressive climb, so I suggested a 2:00am meeting time on a bench in front of the Station. I knew it would be plenty early for us to start climbing but the parking factor took precedence.

I arrive at the lot around 1:15 and although it is pretty much filled, I do find a spot right across from the Ranger Station. In over a dozen trips here I've never had to park below along the road! I check to make sure Heather isn't already waiting for me (she isn't) and then get things ready and just relax in the front seat of my vehicle.

At about 1:50, I go out to sit on the bench to wait for her. Heather arrives right before 2 o'clock and we start up the trail.

Heather is excited and sets a pretty brisk pace. I can match it pretty well but I also know we will reach the base of the Loft couloir before it gets light so I encourage her to ease up just a bit. But this is still difficult for either of us to do with our adrenaline pumping so hard.

Since it's Sunday, I expect the trail to be busy and it is. We pass several groups of climbers and a few pass us as well. Once we get above treeline, the sky above us and to the west is sharp and clear, a good sign. But looking east beyond the lights of Denver and the metropolitan areas, there is a cloud with constant lightning activity. It almost looks like one of those static electricity toys with crackling branches waving out and around a sphere. It's orange and quite fascinating to watch.

At this point I also love to see all the other little strings of headlamps twinkling through the trees coming up below us. There are also quite a few little lights ahead of us. Yes, Longs can be a busy place any day, but especially on the weekends.

We reach the trail junction below Pine Ridge in an hour's time (2.7 miles). We are flying up the trail, and once again I suggest that we ease our pace just a bit, but again, this is easier said than done. We don't even stop to take a break at the Chasm Lake junction but continue on right away down the trail to the Lake.

When we finally hit the junction post to Chasm Lake it is only 4:15. The trail leading up to the Loft couloir is threadier, follows a rocky creek, and is difficult to discern with only headlamps. I know where we need to go looking up at the north side of Meeker, but I don't want to just bushwhack over to it either. We could easily stumble through the thick undergrowth or get our boots wet from the marshy terrain and it simply isn't worth the physical effort at this point.

I suggest we hunker down for awhile until there is enough light to really see where we are going. We find a comfortable spot, put on an extra layer, and get situated on a sandy floor behind a couple of huge boulders that shelter us from the chilly wind. A few other climbers pass us by but none of them are heading for the Iron Gates.

To entertain ourselves, we chat some more and talk about other climbs we've done. In the clear sky above I see three meteors blaze by overhead. Being a city boy, this is the only place I've ever witnessed them.

At around 5 o'clock we feel there is enough light to guide us, so we load up our packs and start up once again. We cut over to a talus slope and begin our climb up Meeker's side. The waning moon is shining directly over the Gates and appears like a beacon for us.

This is my favorite time of the day, when the world is just waking up. The play of light is lovely on the surrounding rocks and cliffs.

We climb higher as does the sun, and its light intensifies with each passing minute, changing the glows and hues in the process.

The Loft couloir with the Flying Buttress.

Mt. Lady Washington with the Mummy range in the distance.

As we near the Black Wall we know we are getting close to the ridge.

Then the world opens up to us and we are engulfed in sunlight. The beautiful Wild Basin spreads out to our southeast. We take a short break to get out our sunglasses and put on a little sunscreen.

We can now see the long ridgeline of Mt Meeker we've yet to climb. It is one of the most wonderful ridges I've done -- good, solid rock, gorgeous views with a dramatic cliff edge to the north.

... and excellent views of Longs and the Loft.

At one point the Longs summit was blanketed with a cloud and we were slightly concerned weather could prevent us from doing a double, but the skies held all day for us.

When we reach the Knife Edge of Meeker, Heather proceeds cautiously at first.

But then she finds it quite secure and has some fun! It's really a blast!

Are we having fun yet? (I think she is!)

The exit off the Knife involves some large boulders to maneuver around. There is significant exposure on both sides. But after they are conquered, the summit lies just ahead.

(Heather had to buy a new camera right before she made this trip. She wasn't quite used to it and had some problems with it.)

We enjoy a short, but good stay on the summit, grab a bite to eat and take a few pictures. But we can't dawdle if we want to hit Longs too.

The sharp ridge of Meeker. Twin Sisters in the background.

Mills Moraine and the trail leading down to Chasm Lake.

The magnificent Wild Basin with Sandbeach Lake.

We drop down to the Loft and head over to the NW corner where the gully leading to Clark's Arrow is supposed to be. There are two cairns marking one gully but it somehow doesn't look quite like I remember. On both occasions that I did this route before, my partners in each case were leading. So this is the first time I am acting as guide. I also know there has been chatter about some major flood damage in this area which may have changed things around a bit during a landslide.

We finally decide to give this gully a try as it looks to be a pretty easy descent and appears that we can traverse over to where I'm thinking it may need to lead. This proves to work fine for us and eventually I do find the place where I expected to be. It actually seemed to be easier than the way I've gone previously. We look for the Arrow and I see what I think resembles the rock face it was painted on, but we can't quite discern the image for sure. I also know it has weathered quite a bit in recent years and is very faint at best.

We follow over to Keplinger's couloir and begin scrambling upward alongside the Palisades. I regret that I don't have any photos in this area; I guess I was too busy concentrating on finding the route.

It is here that we meet two climbers descending towards us. They were coming from Longs Peak and planned to descend via the Loft. We chat with them for a minute and they warn us that we will have to cross a snowfield just up ahead of us. I was well aware of this traverse and actually thinking about it before they mentioned it. It involves about a 15 foot horizontal traverse along a crack in the smooth slab of rock that lies just below a lingering snow patch. Because of the melting snow there frequently is water runoff in a few places making it very slick. Special care needs to be taken.

I wasn't planning to have to deal with actual ice or snow. I don't remember hearing reports that any special gear was needed for this route and just being this late in the season, I'm really surprised that these guys thought we would have to do that. But because neither Heather nor I have an axe or spikes with us, it gives me moment's pause.

The duo goes on their way and Heather and I continue to climb higher. All of a sudden a young woman glides up alongside us. She obviously appears very experienced and knows what she's doing. She greets us and then almost effortlessly passes by us. We exchange a few more words with her, and I ask if she would be willing to stick with us until we cross the traverse ahead, telling her I'd feel a little safer all being together. I mention what the other climbers told us about crossing the snowfield.

She replies that she is willing to do that but then goes on to say that there is another way around that traverse and assures us we don't need to cross any snow. Since we will be together for at least a brief encounter, we all introduce ourselves to each other. When she says her name is Lisa Foster, I exclaim, "Is that 'Lisa Foster' as in the book author!?" She acknowledges, "Yes, I wrote a book."

WOW! I'm totally thrilled to be in the presence of greatness and I'm not shy to tell her so. I've used her book as a reference on several occasions and it is an excellent resource!

And sure enough, she leads us around to the other side staying wide of any snow or even wet rock. We talk some more as we climb up to the point where we can cut over to the Homestretch. Eyeing a long vertical fissure in the rock on the east side of Longs, Lisa decides to try a new route to the summit. It looks to be at least C4-5 so I tell her I'm content with the normal route. Heather agrees to follow me. So we tell her we'll see her at the top.

Heather and I continue onward and merge with the climbers going up and coming down the Homestretch Highway. We reach the summit around 10:45 and find a spot to drop our packs and break out some nourishment. About five minutes later Lisa appears coming over the eastern edge.

She agrees to have a picture taken of me with her, and I also ask her to take one of Heather and me.

I take a few more pictures from the summit, one which shows the entire route up and over Meeker that we took.

An excellent shot of the Iron Gates and Meeker's long ridge.

Meeker Peak and the Loft from the Longs summit.

Once again, we decide not to linger too long. Although they don't look especially threatening, there are many more clouds in the sky and we wish to be much lower if they change for the worse.

Coming down the Homestretch. (photo by Heather)

I always love going back over the Narrows and Ledges again too. Longs is still my favorite peak and I'll never get tired of it!

Along the way we discuss how we want to descend after passing through the Keyhole. The standard trail is now very well groomed after considerable trail work a few years back, so it's pretty easy on the feet and knees. But I mentioned to Heather if she prefers to avoid the crowds we can descend a less traveled way, down the Camel couloir. From the Keyhole we would just need to angle straight over to the Lady Washington ridge aiming for the Camel rocks at the low point in the ridge.

The Camel Rocks on the Lady Washington ridge.

In the end we just chose the standard route which was fine by me as well. My feet were getting sore and it would be good to hike along the easier trail rather than do much more boulder-hopping. The weather held up fine too. We felt only a few kernels of graupel fall on us momentarily just below Granite Pass but then it quit suddenly.

The descent from Chasm Junction is rather long and many complain about it, but I still love every inch of it. I enjoy passing by all the landmarks I see every time I hike it. It's like revisiting old friends.

We reach the parking lot at 3:30pm and it is good to finally take off the boots. We wish each other safe travels back home and then depart in our own vehicles.

It's been a truly wonderful day -- hiking with a super new partner, meeting the author of a book I love, and enjoying a fantastic and memorable loop in our Lord's amazing creation! God is good! Thanks be to God!

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

mathguy	Lisa Foster! How cool! 8/24/2015 4:32pm It’s definitely an added bonus when you bump into a "rock star" on an otherwise very successful hike. I’ve heard she’s very gracious about giving advice, which is a good thing since she truly "wrote the book" on RMNP hiking. I’m also glad to see that she’s bounced back from that tragic climbing accident she was involved in a couple of years ago. Your TR is a great read with nice pics. Longs and Meeker in one swallow is no small feat. Well done.
robnrhea	Fun day 8/24/2015 5:52pm What a fun but looong day. Great job, and as a bonus ran into a celebrity. Thanks for sharing and liked the pics. Nice shot of the superhighway called the homestretch.
Kitten	Great report!! 8/24/2015 9:08pm Very nice write up Doug, I enjoyed reading it! I will for sure try the Iron Gates route sometime, it’s now on my list for Meeker. Oh, and the camel route too!
MtnHub	Thanks for your comments! 8/25/2015 7:36am @ mathguy: Kevin, yeah, it was quite a delightful surprise to run into Lisa. And yes, a very gracious and down-to-earth person. I didn’t know about her accident until after the climb. And I also just discovered her new world record just posted a couple of days ago: 73 summits of Longs Peak!! Quite the accomplishment! I’ve only got 12 now; guess I have a ways to go! Ha! @ robnrhea: Yes, a fairly Looongs day! Ha! But what a fabulous loop! @ Kitten: Maybe we can do that next year. I’d love to have another set of good partners along like you and Mike again!
hr011242	Great Times! 8/25/2015 10:22am Great write up, Doug! And fabulous pictures! Thanks for hiking with me!!
MtnHub	Thanks! 8/25/2015 6:33pm But the pleasure was all mine! I wanted to repeat this fantastic loop again but didn’t want to do it alone. It was great meeting you! You can be my climbing partner any day, Heather!
tonacious70	Route around snow/ice/water 8/26/2015 11:28am I enjoyed your trip report. Doug! Thanks! You mentioned Lisa led you around the other side of snow/ice traverse on the approach to the homestretch. My buddy and I are planning on ascending Longs via the Loft Route and would love to hear the detail of how you got around this obstacle. I remember traversing that snowfield a couple of years ago and would love to avoid it, if possible.
MtnHub	snow 8/26/2015 1:36pm Sorry I don’t have any pictures of the place and I can’t actually visualize it in my mind right now, but we just cut over to the left side of Keplingers earlier than I ever did before because we never got even close to the snow. If fact, I don’t even recall seeing the snow at all when we ascended there. As you ascend in the couloir I would just aim to the left looking for the best way up. It was never more than an easy scramble. Good luck!
tonacious70	RE:snow 8/27/2015 12:43pm thanks, Doug!
wildsidesky	wow 9/24/2018 9:48pm what a cool looking route. the iron gates beckon! this report makes me feel silly for taking the standard route up longs and doing meeker another time :)

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A Meeker/Longs Tour

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