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It's Easy....Hang in there(Crestone Traverse - 14ers Finisher!!!)
Route:North Buttress > East Crestone Peak > Crestone Peak > Traverse to Needle > Down via standard route(Willing to hike) Ended up on the North Pillar > East Crestone Peak > Crestone Peak > Traverse to Needle > Down via Standard Route
14ers Finisher- Crestone Needle
It's been 6 years I have been hiking Colorado 14ers and I never knew I will hike them all one day. I was a casual hiker who hike a 14ers in a year. Very quickly, it became your part of the life and here I am today to finish it up.
What do you think, when you're finishing your 14ers on the traverse of Crestones, even though you already hiked the Crestone Peak and decide not to go from broken-hand pass and red-gully? My friend Mike and I decided to do it from North Buttress route upto the East Crestone and hop in to Crestone Peak and traverse. I asked our friend Marc, if he can join us for this journey. He said, he loves to join us, but he won't be able to come back from his ongoing hiking schedule. Chad from Oklahoma, the other hand, asked me when/where I am going to finish my 14ers and he would like to join us to celebrate. I gave him all the details and he told us he will meet in 4WD road parking lot of South Colony Lake. Later I found Marc will be there.Mike and I left the Park and Ride in Denver at 315PM and head out to Westcliff. We grabbed the dinner from Carl's Junior around 515PM and reached the upper trail-head around 730PM. We met Marc in the TH and we talked with other hikers/campers for an hour. Chad was off to the Humboldt Peak and met him around 830PM. We discussed the next morning plan and went to bed around 9ish. The morning supposed to be full blue moon, but due to the cloud, it didn't happen.
Instead of waking up at 230AM, we woke up at 220AM and got ready in no time. The weather supposed to 70% chance of rain/thunderstorm afternoon. We should move faster to beat the weather and sticking in our planned time. We left TH at 3:05AM with our headlamp. We took the Humboldt's Standard route to the Saddle and reached at 430AM. We meet several other hikers for their different goal of the day. We traversed along the ridge toward the Bear's Playground and reached at the sunrise(6AM).
We enjoyed the sunrise and discussed about the plan for the day. Looked at some of the route description and ready to get it done.
Getting Up to East Crestone Peak
We're excited to try out good class 4 and some of the easy class 5 route for the day. We started ascending toward the North Buttress and following some of the good cairns(which telling me, don't follow all the cairns).
The trail getting steeper and steeper. But the rock were solid and had lots of great hold. Only thing, I was worried about was the wet rocks and wet boot. We focused and kept moving.
Marc was leading the trail and we're trying to follow him as much as we can and in the same time, we wanted to make sure we're safe and find easy way for us. On this sort of free rock climb, you have to make your own way, following the target and make yourself as much comfortable as possible.
We're moving really good, knowingly we're on the right track. But we didn't know, we're on the wrong trail. The trail getting even steeper and steeper.
As of Marc statements: "Why do I enjoy freesolo climbing? It's just you and the mountain. No room for excuses, mountains don't listen to excuses. There is no "could have", and "should have" only exists if you make it through your mistake(s). The people you climb with become your brothers; surviving insane experiences tend to do that. Whether by luck or skill I can look back on a moment in my life and realize I made it, I found a way through my perceived hell and got to the other side safely. I will never forget my reaction to completing this moment, getting on both knees and attempting to wrap my head around it all while realizing it was far from over. Nothing to do but push on and move forward, face the consequences." This was so true.
In one point, we discussed which way to go. We decided, let's go to the right of the rock bump. We're watching Marc moving toward it and in no time, we found that the route getting hairy. But Marc didn't return from there. We asked, if Marc was comfortable doing that. He kept moving up. But Mike and I decided to take left from the rock bump. I went first. I knew where to go, but didn't know how to go. But you have to move. We knew, the weather wasn't good and we have to finish hiking both peak before noon, and have to safe descend. It wasn't that high where we need to go, but that section was 5.8 pitch North Pillar which we didn't know. I was thinking, why I am here. We shouldn't be here, but there is no choice. We couldn't descend from there. I was focused to get it done. I kept free climbing the steepest rock I ever been. Once I climbed 4-5 feet, I realized that I can't go up or can't go right. The only option for me was going to left where there were not much hold for my feet as well as my hands. I couldn't come down where Mike was, or descend. I was hanging there for couple of minutes like a cliff-hanger, planning what to do next. It tested all my rock climbing skills, focus, and decision skill. I stayed focused. At that point, you can't make any mistake. One wrong move will be equal to your life. Either you have to move up, or fall down which would be fetal. I didn't lose my focus. Finally, I decided to put both foot together in one small rock hold and shift left foot very away to get the other hold. I was just keep focusing for only one thing, you have to hang in there, you shouldn't fall. Once I took that move, I found other good holds one after another. Then I easily make my way up to the safe place. Mike started his way up from the same place where I came from.
He stuck in the same place where I stuck. He was taking his time, maneuvering here and there to find the good place to move. After spending, around 5 mins, he asked me how did I move left. He tried to go up, thinking may be that was the way to go, but I told him, the only way, was to move left which wasn't easy. I was praying, don't fall Mike!!! Just keep moving, and you will make it. After some instructions, and his skill, he made it to left.
I took the above picture which was telling me, he wasn't happy to be there and I wasn't either.
Later, we came to know, that was the wrong trail and we ended up on the North Pillar where we weren't supposed to be. At least, you shouldn't be there with your hiking boot and without rope. I borrowed following picture from maverick_manley. According to him, we should be on the blue line, but we're on the red line. If you're going now, just make sure to stay at the blue line as much as possible.
But, it was over and quickly, we reached to the top of East Crestone in no time. It was 8AM.
Down Climb off of East Crestone Peak
We have to descend the East Crestone to get Creastone Peak.
That was another challenge we had. But comparing what we went through, it seemed mellow and only I was thinking, we have to take a time to find the better route to descend, that's it.
The route was not easy and challenging in the same time. But you will find lots of good rock holds. I wasn't looking down that much, since the route was very exposed and significantly dangerous. Since you're descending, there was no way, you can control yourself to stop looking down. But to be honest, I wasn't even worried a bit here. Mike and Marc were making their descending as less painful as possible.
We had a great time on this descend and we're at the bottom of the East Crestone quickly. Once we ascended the small red gully, we're on the ridge of the Crestone Peak.
I borrowed maverick_manley picture again to illustrate where we descended.
We did summit the Creastone Peak around 845AM. We're 15 mins behind the scheduled time and supposed to leave the Peak at 9AM. We met our friend Chad on the summit. He left right after we reached to the summit, so that he can meet us on the Needle.
We took the summit pictures, had some snacks, Gatorade, call wife, and enjoy the nature.
Crestones Traverse to Finisher
We started descending through red gully at 9AM to find out the right place to traverse. Marc has already done that route, so we're not that much worried about finding the cairn or route.
We crossed the small snow field, but it's not a biggie. You don't need ice axe or other traction for now. The traverse was very mellow of class 2 and easy class 3, and it's not hard to follow cairns. If you're not seeing any cairn for long time, then you're not on the route. Make sure to get down little more than what you think of. We made a very good progress on that trail.
Without wasting anytime, we reached to bottom of Black Gendarme and make our way up to the gully contains a "bulge" which requires the most difficult climbing moves (Class 5.2) on the entire route and pass beneath the gendarme until you reach the steep base of another gendarme(14ers.com). We were making good progress here and that section wasn't that bad.
Just need to reach out to good hold and you will be fine.
We're having fun at this point.
Once we crossed the small knife edge, from there, the route wasn't that bad at all. The exposure was the only thing which might scare you. But, if you're not worried about that, you will be fine.
Moving one step near to the summit.
Mike made a plan that he will go first to take my video for the finisher and Marc will support taking video from back. We kept moving.
This was the final class 4 section where you have to be very careful about massive exposure on your left. Just be careful here and you will fine. Mike was making his way up and waiting to take video.
This was one of the picture mike took where you can see the exposure as well as the steepness of the trail. In the same time, you will find lots of dependable holds. Mike was video taping while I was moving up.
Once the final push done, the summit was visible near. I didn't even know what I was thinking at that point. IT'S DONE!!!! I quickly reached to the summit and meet Mike. It was just 1040AM(20 mins before the schedule time). The moment captured by Marc was phenomenal.
Now, it's celebration time. We waited Chad for half an hour and came to know that he won't be coming up. So, we decided to open the Champagne and begin the celebration. We celebrated Colorado 58 14ers finisher. Took a lot of pictures. We enjoyed the cloud behind us in the same time. It was awesome feeling that I did it....
Marc was enjoying the moment. The cloud was rising from below which was surreal to watch behind him.
Descending From Crestone Needle
We started descending around 1130AM. We're all by our-self on the summit. Cloud rolled pretty quickly and I was worried about the whiteout situation. In one point, we couldn't see anything and we didn't know, where we're going. We looked all around, but nothing seemed the right way to descend. In about 5 mins, the cloud clears little bit and we saw two hikers ascending to Needle. We went that direction and quickly, saw the route below where other hikers were making their way to the broken-hand-pass.
The descend part was not bad. Very solid rocks with good class 3 scramble route. We enjoyed that portion of descend. Specially, I was enjoying since I did finish all CO 14ers and I was happy inside and out. I was jogging on that that trail. What can you say more than that. Before reaching broken-hand-pass, we felt little bit snow, and followed by the very light rain shower. I didn't even bother to take our rain gear.
We reached the broken-hand-pass and took brief break. There were snow-field which you can easily avoid, but we descended through it.
Before leaving the Upper South Colony Lake, we stop by to take the Needle picture.
We reached the TH around 3PM and met Chad. We talked about the day and what we went through. Before heading out, we went to the creek for cold-therapy on flip flop.
Left the TH around 330PM and reached home(Denver) by 7PM. What a great way to finish it up. Thank you Mike, Marc, and Chad. Will close the trip report with Marc's quote from FB:
"Nobody may ever know for sure, but I stand by my statement that you have had the most difficult and most dangerous 14er finisher in history."
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
Congrats on finishing the 14ers. Glad you guys made it through the routefinding difficulties on the N buttress. The peak you summitted in image 17 is NE Crestone, not E Crestone. It looks like you topped out on a fin just below NE Crestone and skirted below it.
TallGrass: Thank you...we did via North Buttress route
michaelgrundy: It’s same my friend...it’s honor to hike with you too...and looking forward to hike with you on your finisher – Pikes Peak
pmeadco: Thank you.....
E Crestone: Thank you and thank u for correcting me.
Nice trip report and glad you made it safely even with the route finding issues. I wanted to call out a point of clarification regarding the route you are referring to as the North Pillar. That is not the North Pillar but some variation to the North Buttress. The North Pillar route (the one described in Roach’s book and on MP.com) actually starts high in South Colony Lakes basin and the route climbs the east face of the pillar. It ends near the base of the North Buttress route. Not saying the variation you took wasn’t hard and spicy but just wanted to make sure folks didn’t think this is the North Pillar. I did the pillar to the buttress several years ago and oddly enough found the un–roped climbing on the buttress to be the hairiest part of the whole day. We also down climbed the buttress for some reason which added to the spice. Happy climbing and congrats on a hard won summit.
the peak you keep referring to as "East Crestone" is actually "Northeast Crestone". Nice work and congrats on the climb.
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