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There are various routes to ascend Castle and Conundrum Peaks from the Conundrum Hot Springs, but apparently they are all horrible. I have tried most myself, and also heard reports from numerous people, confirming that all routes are tedious and/or dangerous.
What bothered me the most was the misleading "route" on Summitpost.org, describing an easy local's route up Conundrum's west ridge that supposedly does not exceed class 2, when in fact it becomes loose and sketchy near the top. I felt it would make a large contribution to our 14'er knowledge to find a better way. There are numerous potential routes, including the northwest ridge of Conundrum Peak. Unfortunately I could find no data whatsoever for this. It became a bit of an obsession because it appeared feasible from all angles, but possibly tricky and maybe dangerous. I tried to sneak in an ascent in October before the serious snow arrived, but alas I was just barely too late. It was a long wait for winter to pass before I could make an attempt.
Finally I had the time off work, and the forecast looked as decent as any for summertime in Colorado. I decided to go solo because I didn't know how much risk was involved, wouldn't want to jeopardize someone else's safety just to satisfy my own curiosity. Just a couple weeks prior, some friends and I had made a trip to Conundrum Hot Spring; I observed the current snow conditions, took some photos, and analyzed several approaches to reach the ridgecrest.
Now, for this trip, I didn't even go to the hot spring. When I arrived at the major (unbridged) creek crossing at mile 6.5 (hot spring is 8.5 miles), I didn't take off my shoes and cross, but rather stayed on the left side and began the bushwhack up towards the basin that is north of my intended ridge. Not knowing exactly how this was going to play out, I carried my big pack, with all my overnight gear, obviously pared down to be as light as possible. Castleabra Subpeak on right, NW ridge of Conundrum Peak on left
I camped near treeline, then started out very early the next day. Contact me if you want to know exactly where I gained the ridgecrest. The scrambling begins here.
I kept looking over towards the west ridge of Conundrum, glad I wasn't doing that ridge again. The right skyline is Conundrum Peak's west ridge, which I dislike. Closeup of Conundrum Peak's west ridge
The first half of the ridge was easy Class 3 scrambling, somewhat loose but not bad by Elk Range standards. Then I reached a rock wall that can be bypassed on the right. After which I ascended a gully, eventually regaining the ridgecrest near a high point. This rock wall can be bypassed on the right. Conundrum's twin summits are on the right side of this photo. The final section of ridge, nearing the summit. Looking back at the point above my ridge.
It felt so good to reach the summit! There were several areas of Class 4 scrambling along the upper portion of the ridge, but it was a blast and I will probably repeat it some day just for fun. However, I cannot say this is the best way to reach these 14'ers from the hot spring because: 1) the start of this route is well downstream of the hot spring, 2) it's essential for anyone ascending this ridge to be very experienced with Class 3 and 4 scrambling and route finding, and 3) it is not a great descent route, leaving the other route options for descent. This is easier said than done for someone traveling in unknown terrain. For myself, I chose to traverse the peak, descending to the standard Castle route along Montezuma Basin Jeep Trail.
It was also a blast glissading from the Castle/Conundrum Peak Saddle. But don't do it if there is avalanche danger, don't do it too late in the day when the snow is dangerously soft, and don't do it without an ice axe!
Beautiful tarn below Castle Peak.
This project is not over yet. There are other "new" routes on my list...
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
I really enjoyed this trip report. Having tried and failed miserably to reach Castle and Conundrum from the hot springs, I appreciate your efforts to find a better way.
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