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Date: July 3, 2015 RT Distance: 8 miles RT Gain: 3,000' RT Time: 6 hours 45 minutes Climbers: Speth (speth), Adam, Jeff (SurfNTurf)
This snow-climbing season was disappointing. Between major life changes, a new puppy, a minor finger injury and the unsettled weather, I accomplished almost none of my goals. I hardly climbed at all in May and June, even missing the Spring Gathering and the past several happy hours. "Stir crazy" doesn't even begin to describe it. With Friday off for the Fourth and an acceptable forecast, I pinged Speth and Adam about climbing Mt. Edwards via the Goatfinger Couloir. They immediately agreed.
The need for an early start and time constraints (this spring's theme) Saturday led to us driving up Friday night to bro out around a campfire at the Stevens Gulch Trailhead. It was car camping at its finest, complete with a brick-walled fire ring and wooden benches. A few IPAs, many Dave Chappelle quotes and a magnificent sunset later, we were ready to crash in anticipation of a 3:30 a.m. wake-up call.
Totally worth-it ruiner of spring climbing plans.
Red Ballz: It's cocaine in a can! (Photo by Adam.)
Sunset over camp in Stevens Gulch.
First light saw us high in Stevens Gulch staring at a half-dry Goatfinger. Lost Rat was melted out at the top as well, and Dead Dog appeared to be limping along. Looming beautifully in front of us, however, was a fat-looking Southpaw.
This couloir, which is shorter and steeper than the more famous Dead Dog, is seldom climbed because the exit is guarded by a menacing cornice. We stared at it for a while and decided that, this late in the season, a few reasonable options existed to surmount the final obstacle. All I knew about Southpaw was that it wasn't supposed to be terribly steep and that Moonstalker wrote an excellent TR a couple years back. We set off without a ton of beta, and like any such adventure, the result was equal parts joy, laughter, terror, adrenaline and accomplishment.
Southpaw begins with a long, mellow 30- to 35-degree apron. We were shocked and thrilled to find surprisingly good snow conditions. The angle gradually increases as you ascend, culminating in a 50ish-degree finish to the vertical cornice.
Sunrise above 12,000'.
First light on Torreys, with Southpaw and Dead Dog obvious.
Looking up Southpaw.
Snow phallus. I'm mature.
The climb itself was simply amazing -- supportive snow, attention-keeping yet easy terrain, and copious jokes relevant to 30ish-year-old "grown" men. As we neared the top, the two exit options looked to remain feasible. We hugged the right side of the couloir to avoid an unstable Volkswagen-sized block and eyed a less-than-vertical ramp just to its right for our escape.
Adam, in the lead, was the first to reach the cornice. The ramp we'd chosen comprised only about four-to-six feet of 70-degree snow. A couple swings, a few kicks, and we'd be over the top. It quickly became apparent that our optimism was going to go unrewarded. Unlike the rest of the couloir, the snow on the cornice was 100 percent pure garbage.
After Adam deemed our intended finish too dangerous, I started peering over my shoulder and weighing our retreat options. The first 200 feet or so was steep enough to require face-in downclimbing, and the snow conditions were deteriorating rapidly. Still, it seemed reasonable.
A horizontal two-foot-wide ledge of snow, ice and scree also caught our attention, as it led to a spot where the cornice was only about three feet high. If we could reach it -- which would require several delicate moves across exposed Class 4 terrain -- it seemed like it would go. Speth led across first, balancing on crampon points and grasping for anything that resembled trustworthy rock. He made it safely to the ledge and disappeared around the corner. Adam went next, talking himself through the balance-y moves. Only a few tiny islands of solid rock interrupted the 50- to 55-degree scree and snow. Without much in the way of handholds, it was a mental battle to trust your frontpoints and shimmy across. A few sections of thin ice that took a pick or point provided extra security.
Adam reached the ledge and talked me through the traverse, which I completed with only minor whimpering. A couple deep postholes kept the pucker factor high while crossing the snow ledge, but before long we found Speth standing on terra firma above the cornice. He offered a hand to help us over the final waist-high wall, and we all collapsed into a heap on the standard trail near two frat bros sipping PBRs. Welcome to summer on Grays and Torreys.
We stayed put for a while, giddily releasing adrenaline, before taking off our climbing gear and finishing the trudge up to the summit The Big T. Awaiting at the top was the standard July fare, including summit signs, selfie sticks and trail-runners in Colorado flag bikinis. Kelso Ridge was a popular route choice on this Friday, and it was cool to watch party after party come up, basking in their accomplishment.
Speth starting up in shorts and a T-shirt.
Adam takes the lead.
Me and Speth above the apron. (Photo by Adam.)
Eh dawg, eh.
Hey, this route is pretty rad. (Photo by Adam.)
In Southpaw's upper third. (Photo by Adam.)
Approaching the top.
Closer shot of the cornice.
Scoping out our options.
We were aiming for the ramp just above the rocks, slightly to the left of Adam.
A picture of the cornice from above.
Summit cheesin'. (Photo by Adam.)
Views from Torreys.
Looking toward Edwards, Bierstadt and Evans.
Crowded Grays. #summerishere
Southpaw from another angle.
Zoomed in cornice shot.
Thanks to Speth and Adam for yet another fun day out. Southpaw Couloir isn't climbed much for a good reason -- unless conditions are perfect, that ever-present cornice is a monster. If you catch it right, however, I could see it being an absolute classic. I suspect that only happens for a week or two every couple years, though. Happy hunting.
P.S. Prrrrrrrrrrrrrrrdddddddddd.
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
Nice to see a report from you Jeffrey! Way to time this one dude. If you can get up at 3:30 AM to climb Torreys, c’mon now, you can get up at 6 AM to hit Movement. :) Hope that pinky is healing man! 2 months until the temp starts dropping again. I heard that through the grapevine somewhere...
On not getting out this year. I’ve done all of one 13er so far and last weekend was a total bust. Glad to see you got out for a good climb. Looks like it was a beautiful day. Zia and Maya should climb together sometime. Maya can show her how it’s done.
My partner and I were the ones suffering our way up Dead Dog (zoom in and you can see us at the bottom of the apron). I think I saw you guys getting ready in the basin below. We were wondering about Southpaw, but that cornice scared us away.
Liking this trip report. Except for Matthew Speth’s hair. He needs a haircut.
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