OTHER Trip Report 07/26/2014

Report Type	Full
Peak(s)	Mt. Rainier - 14410
Date Posted	07/26/2014
Date Climbed	07/11/2014
Author	jchapell

Mt. Rainier - Disappointment Cleaver
"Of all the fire mountains which, like beacons, once blazed along the Pacific Coast, Mt. Rainier is the noblest" - John Muir Climbing Mt. Rainier was supposed to be the summer climb my wife and I shared together after a spring full of smaller climbs. However, when we found out we were pregnant the same week we had planned to book the trip, my incredible wife told me I should go ahead and climb without her. I decided to go with RMI, and booked a mid-July climb... July 9: Arrival & Orientation I was excited sitting on the left side of the plane to get the view of Rainier on the flight in. Adams poked through the clouds first, then just as Rainier's massive slopes became visible the clouds parted for a full view of the Southern and eventually Northern sides. Mt. Rainier from the plane displaying the route for the coming days. The decidedly more intimidating routes of the north face. The RMI and Whittaker Mountaineering basecamp in Ashford is a one-stop shop, with a bar and grill, bunk house, coffee shop, gift shop, base camp, and rental shop. The first afternoon was orientation where we met our guides and went through a gear check. It became clear that if you didn't come with adequate gear, the guides will make sure you rent them before stepping foot on the mountain. It all runs smoothly and very efficiently. We found out our lead guides would be Mike Walters and Solveig Waterfall, just back from Denali. RMI and Whittaker Mountaineering complex in Ashford. July 10: Snow School The second day was Mountaineering School, so we packed up and headed to Paradise to hike to some snowfields. I've been to Mount Rainier National Park and Paradise before, but the giant trees, wildflowers, waterfalls, and the towering mountain were still exciting. The area was undergoing a bit of a heat wave, so the requisite practice of french technique, self-arrest, and rope travel was SUPER hot. Returning to basecamp in Ashford gave a great opportunity to connect with the other climbers and swap stories, histories, and expectations. July 11: Climb Day 1 Paradise to Camp Muir, ~4,800ft gain, 4-5 miles We woke up on July 11, geared up, and hopped on the RMI shuttle and left Paradise around 9:30am. Despite the forecast in the upper 80's, many of us were in long sleeves and long pants to avoid the inevitable sun burn (at least 5 people in our group had bought Patagonia sun hoodies the day before). My wife and I had hiked to Camp Muir previously in September so I knew it wasn't a ton of fun, but the heat made it a real grind. We made it to Muir around 3pm. After organizing our gear in the Muir bunkhouse, taking photos, and grabbing a quick dinner, and we sat down to discuss the next day. We would be making an early departure due to the hot forecast, but the route was otherwise in great shape. The nearly perfect weather and great views made the time pass by all too quickly. By 6:30pm, we had "lights out", which meant putting a sleeping pad over the window. While I usually fall asleep easily, the anticipation of the next day kept me up until our wake up call around 11pm to gear up! Heading towards the Muir Snowfield on the Skyline Trail, still mostly covered in snow. Ascending the Muir Snowfield Taking a break on the Muir Snowfield with the Wilson Glacier, Wilson Falls, and the Nisqually Glacier in full view The RMI Bunkhouse at Camp Muir Inside the bunkhouse The view from the bunkhouse Looking at the tents on the Cowlitz, and our route stretching toward Cathedral Rocks in the upper left. A similar view taken 6 hours later by moonlight Mt. Adams and St. Helens by the full moon light. Mt. Hood is in center if you look closely. Climb Day 2: Camp Muir to Summit: ~4500ft gain, 6-7 mi RT Camp Muir to Paradise: ~4800ft descent, 4-5 miles Around 11:30pm we left Camp Muir. We were lucky to have a full moon, and I kept my headlamp off for most of the moderate traverse across the Cowlitz Glacier. As the last person in my 4-person rope team, I was mostly just playing follow the leader. We shortened our rope interval to ascend the rocky and somewhat steep Cathedral Gap. About an hour and a half after we left Camp Muir we came to RMI's first break spot, a little over 11,000 feet. After ~10 minutes there, we traversed the Ingraham in the direction of the headlamps ascending the Disappointment Cleaver. There was one crevasse ladder crossing in this stretch, but overall the route was fairly tame. Headlamp trails as we gear up at Muir Looking out at the climbers ahead of us ascending Cathedral Gap The Cleaver is known as the crux of the route - this is probably true, though it remains a technically modest scramble. However, it is a steep hour long section of mixed rock and ice with moderate exposure, and our guide's regular encouragement to move quickly kept our heart rate up. At the break spot at the top of the Cleaver, the other two climbers on my rope team decided they were finished for the night, and headed back down with a guide. I joined up with a different rope team, and began the ~1000ft climb to our next break spot. Aside from an increasingly sore hip, I felt great at this point, and couldn't help gawking at the terrain all around us in the moonlight. Crevasses, seracs, suncups, and boulders made a surreal landscape. There were several snow bridge crossings, and one open crossing where we had to use our axes to hoist ourselves up and across a not-insignificant crevasse. The train of headlamps above the Cleaver. After a brief stop at around 13,500ft, we began the final push to the summit. As I watched the train of headlamps on the upper mountain I had a nervous excitement that most of the obstacles to completing this climb were passing by, and there was a very high probability that we were going to make it to the top. The horizon began to glow orange around this point, and we slowly began to see our surroundings and distant topography in warmer shades of color. Suddenly, I was aware of a snowy headwall to my right, and within a couple minutes we were stepping into the crater! The sun hadn't yet fully risen, but the horizon was bright orange, and we had relatively calm winds and mild temps in the upper 20's. Once the sun broke over the crater rim, it felt great to get a little radiant warmth. Our whole team continued over to Columbia Crest to sign the register and stand on the mountain's high point. On the way, I have a look over at Liberty Cap, thinking about the much more difficult and dangerous ascent of that side of the mountain that has proved so tragic this year. Sunrise over the crater rim My 10 minutes on the summit was ample time to snap the summit shots (with a simultaneous full moon and sun rise), congratulate my teammates, thank my guide Josh Gautreau, and enjoy the moment. After returning to the crater, we snacked, packed up, I put on some knee braces, and we headed down. Wishing she could be here with me... The descent on the upper mountain was challenging but beautiful. The morning light was gorgeous, and it was great to get a second look at the terrain. However, by the time we were halfway down the Cleaver, my sore hip and lack of sleep were making themselves known. We had a near mishap when a member of my rope team accidentally dislodged a volleyball sized rock, which went tumbling directly towards a lower rope team. Thankfully, it bounced directly through the middle of that team without causing any problems. The rest of the way down the route was fairly uneventful, with a mixture of awe-inspiring views and increasing heat and need to hydrate. Snowbridge traffic jam Little tahoma with the crevassed Emmons glacier below A daytime comparison to photo #17. Camp Muir is just beyond the tents. Obligatory ladder photo. By the time we made it to Camp Muir, down the Muir Snowfield, and back to Paradise around 1:30pm, we were all pretty pooped. We were more thankful for the good weather as a lenticular cloud formed over the peak. The RMI shuttle driver had watermelon and blueberries, one of the best snacks I've ever had. Our team. We met back at RMI's basecamp, hung out for awhile, thanked (and tipped!) our guides, and congratulated each other. We had a special treat when Lou Whittaker came out and talked with us about his past. I have heard this from many people, but I was incredibly impressed by RMI and our guides, and would certainly use them again on different mountains. Mt. Rainier lived up to the expectations I had for it - the challenge, the beauty, and the accomplishment. I can't wait to come back with my wife and do it again! Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Mt. Rainier - Disappointment Cleaver

"Of all the fire mountains which, like beacons, once blazed along the Pacific Coast, Mt. Rainier is the noblest" - John Muir

Climbing Mt. Rainier was supposed to be the summer climb my wife and I shared together after a spring full of smaller climbs. However, when we found out we were pregnant the same week we had planned to book the trip, my incredible wife told me I should go ahead and climb without her. I decided to go with RMI, and booked a mid-July climb...

July 9: Arrival & Orientation
I was excited sitting on the left side of the plane to get the view of Rainier on the flight in. Adams poked through the clouds first, then just as Rainier's massive slopes became visible the clouds parted for a full view of the Southern and eventually Northern sides.

Mt. Rainier from the plane displaying the route for the coming days.

The decidedly more intimidating routes of the north face.

The RMI and Whittaker Mountaineering basecamp in Ashford is a one-stop shop, with a bar and grill, bunk house, coffee shop, gift shop, base camp, and rental shop. The first afternoon was orientation where we met our guides and went through a gear check. It became clear that if you didn't come with adequate gear, the guides will make sure you rent them before stepping foot on the mountain. It all runs smoothly and very efficiently. We found out our lead guides would be Mike Walters and Solveig Waterfall, just back from Denali.

RMI and Whittaker Mountaineering complex in Ashford.

July 10: Snow School
The second day was Mountaineering School, so we packed up and headed to Paradise to hike to some snowfields. I've been to Mount Rainier National Park and Paradise before, but the giant trees, wildflowers, waterfalls, and the towering mountain were still exciting. The area was undergoing a bit of a heat wave, so the requisite practice of french technique, self-arrest, and rope travel was SUPER hot. Returning to basecamp in Ashford gave a great opportunity to connect with the other climbers and swap stories, histories, and expectations.

July 11: Climb Day 1
Paradise to Camp Muir, ~4,800ft gain, 4-5 miles
We woke up on July 11, geared up, and hopped on the RMI shuttle and left Paradise around 9:30am. Despite the forecast in the upper 80's, many of us were in long sleeves and long pants to avoid the inevitable sun burn (at least 5 people in our group had bought Patagonia sun hoodies the day before). My wife and I had hiked to Camp Muir previously in September so I knew it wasn't a ton of fun, but the heat made it a real grind. We made it to Muir around 3pm. After organizing our gear in the Muir bunkhouse, taking photos, and grabbing a quick dinner, and we sat down to discuss the next day. We would be making an early departure due to the hot forecast, but the route was otherwise in great shape. The nearly perfect weather and great views made the time pass by all too quickly. By 6:30pm, we had "lights out", which meant putting a sleeping pad over the window. While I usually fall asleep easily, the anticipation of the next day kept me up until our wake up call around 11pm to gear up!

Heading towards the Muir Snowfield on the Skyline Trail, still mostly covered in snow.

Taking a break on the Muir Snowfield with the Wilson Glacier, Wilson Falls, and the Nisqually Glacier in full view

Looking at the tents on the Cowlitz, and our route stretching toward Cathedral Rocks in the upper left.

A similar view taken 6 hours later by moonlight

Mt. Adams and St. Helens by the full moon light. Mt. Hood is in center if you look closely.

Climb Day 2:
Camp Muir to Summit: ~4500ft gain, 6-7 mi RT
Camp Muir to Paradise: ~4800ft descent, 4-5 miles
Around 11:30pm we left Camp Muir. We were lucky to have a full moon, and I kept my headlamp off for most of the moderate traverse across the Cowlitz Glacier. As the last person in my 4-person rope team, I was mostly just playing follow the leader. We shortened our rope interval to ascend the rocky and somewhat steep Cathedral Gap. About an hour and a half after we left Camp Muir we came to RMI's first break spot, a little over 11,000 feet. After ~10 minutes there, we traversed the Ingraham in the direction of the headlamps ascending the Disappointment Cleaver. There was one crevasse ladder crossing in this stretch, but overall the route was fairly tame.

Looking out at the climbers ahead of us ascending Cathedral Gap

The Cleaver is known as the crux of the route - this is probably true, though it remains a technically modest scramble. However, it is a steep hour long section of mixed rock and ice with moderate exposure, and our guide's regular encouragement to move quickly kept our heart rate up. At the break spot at the top of the Cleaver, the other two climbers on my rope team decided they were finished for the night, and headed back down with a guide. I joined up with a different rope team, and began the ~1000ft climb to our next break spot. Aside from an increasingly sore hip, I felt great at this point, and couldn't help gawking at the terrain all around us in the moonlight. Crevasses, seracs, suncups, and boulders made a surreal landscape. There were several snow bridge crossings, and one open crossing where we had to use our axes to hoist ourselves up and across a not-insignificant crevasse.

The train of headlamps above the Cleaver.

After a brief stop at around 13,500ft, we began the final push to the summit. As I watched the train of headlamps on the upper mountain I had a nervous excitement that most of the obstacles to completing this climb were passing by, and there was a very high probability that we were going to make it to the top. The horizon began to glow orange around this point, and we slowly began to see our surroundings and distant topography in warmer shades of color. Suddenly, I was aware of a snowy headwall to my right, and within a couple minutes we were stepping into the crater! The sun hadn't yet fully risen, but the horizon was bright orange, and we had relatively calm winds and mild temps in the upper 20's. Once the sun broke over the crater rim, it felt great to get a little radiant warmth. Our whole team continued over to Columbia Crest to sign the register and stand on the mountain's high point. On the way, I have a look over at Liberty Cap, thinking about the much more difficult and dangerous ascent of that side of the mountain that has proved so tragic this year.

My 10 minutes on the summit was ample time to snap the summit shots (with a simultaneous full moon and sun rise), congratulate my teammates, thank my guide Josh Gautreau, and enjoy the moment. After returning to the crater, we snacked, packed up, I put on some knee braces, and we headed down.

The descent on the upper mountain was challenging but beautiful. The morning light was gorgeous, and it was great to get a second look at the terrain. However, by the time we were halfway down the Cleaver, my sore hip and lack of sleep were making themselves known. We had a near mishap when a member of my rope team accidentally dislodged a volleyball sized rock, which went tumbling directly towards a lower rope team. Thankfully, it bounced directly through the middle of that team without causing any problems. The rest of the way down the route was fairly uneventful, with a mixture of awe-inspiring views and increasing heat and need to hydrate.

Little tahoma with the crevassed Emmons glacier below

By the time we made it to Camp Muir, down the Muir Snowfield, and back to Paradise around 1:30pm, we were all pretty pooped. We were more thankful for the good weather as a lenticular cloud formed over the peak. The RMI shuttle driver had watermelon and blueberries, one of the best snacks I've ever had.

We met back at RMI's basecamp, hung out for awhile, thanked (and tipped!) our guides, and congratulated each other. We had a special treat when Lou Whittaker came out and talked with us about his past. I have heard this from many people, but I was incredibly impressed by RMI and our guides, and would certainly use them again on different mountains. Mt. Rainier lived up to the expectations I had for it - the challenge, the beauty, and the accomplishment. I can't wait to come back with my wife and do it again!

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

bettyboulder	Great write-up 7/26/2014 7:12pm and truly amazing photos! Brought back memories of my climb up the DC route with RMI in 2006 with similarly spectacular weather (though not as hot). Thanks for sharing!
EatinHardtack	Nice 7/27/2014 12:40am Great pics. Thanks for the write up.
RyGuy	Great pics! 7/27/2014 2:06am Myself and 2 other 14ers members (GregMiller and MonGoose) climbed the same days you did, although we departed Paradise at 6AM and Camp Muir at 11PM. I can see our Lime Green Katabatic tent in pics 12 and 13. Was hard to beat that weather and the full moon! I kinda wished I had brought my DSLR to get some astrophotography like you got, but I didn't want the weight. Pack was over 50 lbs as it was. Great write up and pictures! -Ryan
Theodore	Gorgeous 7/27/2014 3:23am Photos! Nice shooting and good job!
FireOnTheMountain	congrats 7/27/2014 4:11am enjoyed the pics
BKullman	Made my Sunday morning at work more tolerable... 7/27/2014 2:01pm Thanks for a great write up with awesome pics. I especially like image #17. What a bonus to get to hear Lou Whittaker speak of his mountaineering experiences!
jchapell	Thanks for the comments! 7/27/2014 7:26pm Thanks people. The Sony RX100 camera (purchased used on craigslist) was a champ for this type of trip. BKullman - Lou Whittaker was certainly an unexpected highlight. He talked about "banking" good health when you are young for when you are his age (mid 70's), and he sure seems to have benefitted. He moved like a 50 year old! RyGuy- I have a ton of additional photos from Muir that day, I'll pass along a link via PM once they are uploaded in case you can pick yourself out. Here is a link to the "keepers": https://picasaweb.google.com/103024512948620207117/Rainier201402?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCJ2Oy7ifpcWGsQE&feat=directlink
jsdratm	RMI rocks 7/28/2014 1:07pm Nice TR, I was on the 11-14 summit climb group and also really enjoyed using RMI as the guide service. Good job on reaching the summit of such a cool mountain! :)
SurfNTurf	Congrats 7/28/2014 10:52pm Nice job reaching the summit, and thanks for sharing your awesome photos.

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