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MOUNTAIN: Longs Peak ROUTE: Flying Dutchman (Steep Snow, WI2) RT GAIN: ~4,100' RT DISTANCE: ~11 miles RT TIME: 10 hours CLIMBERS: Keegan (AlpineDude), Sam (Steve Climber aka #SSSala), Jeff (SurfNTurf)
(All photos by Jeff and Sam.)
The Flying Dutchman.
Sam, Keegan and I had never climbed together as a team. Keegan had a little jaunt to Alaska to worry about, I was recovering from shoulder surgery and #SSSala was always busy trolling Facebook. With only two weeks before our trip to the Pacific Northwest, we figured at least one dress rehearsal probably wouldn't be the stupidest thing we've ever done.
We settled on the Flying Dutchman because it replicates what we'll be facing up in Washington (Kautz and Adams Glaciers) -- a multi-hour approach, steep snow and a brief section of WI2/3. The main reason I'm writing this TR is because the Dutchman is in great condition, and I hope it inspires some of you to give this classic route a try. We spent the day in solitude while party after party swarmed Dreamweaver. As an extra bonus, if you're a teenage French-Canadian, you can climb it in tennis shoes!
We set off from the trailhead a little after 5 a.m. and reached Chasm Junction on a dry trail in about two hours. I'd been up that way several times before, but somehow this was my first trip ever taking a left and heading toward Chasm Lake. Always love treading new ground. Snow patches began to appear, but most of the route remained dry and easy to follow. We crossed around the left side of the lake on boulders and snow to arrive at the base of the route.
Sunrise over a cloud layer.
Except for a steady wind, it was a gorgeous morning in the Meeker-Longs cirque.
Crossing down to Chasm Lake.
I'm including this photo of Sam because he wouldn't stop talking about his new backpack.
Under the Diamond.
Looking up the Dutchman from the base.
By the time we'd taken a break, geared up and discussed tactics, it was about 9:15 a.m. We decided to rope up from the start to practice glacier travel and pacing. Sam was to lead, so we saddled him with all the gear and rejoiced as our backpacks dropped from 35 pounds to 15 pounds.
The fun started from the get-go with a small, low-angle ice and mixed step to enter the couloir proper. From there it's an ever-steepening snow climb up about 1,000-1,200 feet to the ice crux. I'd estimate it started around 40 degrees and maxed out at 55 or 60 degrees on the ice step. Sam carried a couple pickets for protection, but we never felt the need to place any. We pulled off to the rocks a couple times when a good rest ledge presented itself, belaying each other in and out.
Finally, the ice step appeared. We weren't really sure what to expect and were thrilled to find what looked like good ice, though a bit sunny and wet. It was much shorter and lower angle than we were anticipating. A few sticks saw us over and back onto lower-angle snow. Sam briefly considered building an anchor for a proper belay, but it looked easy enough that we just simul-climbed it. Sam placed two cams (one below, one above the ice step) and a picket for peace of mind. It was my first time swinging tools since shoulder surgery in January, and even though I was horribly inefficient, the stoke levels were off the charts.
Making Sam carry all the crap.
The first mini ice/mixed section.
Let the snow slog begin.
Sam mean-muggin' at a rest ledge.
Keegan in his element.
#truth
Frontpointing up a hard section.
This was an accidental photo, but turned out OK.
Finally playing with the new toys I bought myself while in post-surgery depression mode.
The ice step appears.
Getting closer to the fun.
Sam toying around with a potential anchor. He eventually just placed a cam and kept on going.
Simul-climbing the ice step.
Keegan patiently waiting while my inefficient ass figures out how to swing tools again.
We reached the exit and regrouped on easier terrain at 12 p.m. The wind had been annoying all day, and now dark clouds were building to the northwest. None of us really cared all that much about a summit after having so much fun on the route. With burgers and beers at Oskar Blues beckoning, we unroped and set off down Lambslide. The snow was still hard enough to warrant crampons. No glissade, unfortunately.
The Chasm Lake cirque is simply stellar. I found myself stopping every few minutes to just stop and look around. You hear about all these famous features, but it's a totally different experience when you see them in person, close enough you can almost reach out and touch. We went around the opposite bank of Chasm Lake this time, hoping for good views of the Dutchman. We weren't disappointed.
The rest of the walk was pretty uneventful, with each of us retreating into our own thoughts (mostly of bacon cheeseburgers and Dale's) for the slog out. The snow is melting quickly up there. Go get after it while you can!
Time to take the gear off.
Pano of the top-out.
Looking across Broadway and the Frappier Route.
Descending Lambslide.
Glamor shot of Keegan.
Doesn't look intimidating at all, does it?
If only this were a hot spring...
Looking back from across Chasm Lake.
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
I did a Ctrl+F for backpack, shoulder, and surgery to see if I could get the gist of the report. Was not disappointed.
But seriously, nice work. Fun little ice flow in June and it's always good to get out. What in the heck is up with Steve Climber's ice axe. Looks like a modified big bro. The Cassin tools look nice and shiny. Good luck on Kautz
JUST for backpack would have covered the entire day.
I had to saw 4” off axe to get it to fit my bag for Orizaba trip in Feb. Now it fills up with ice and snow when I plunge it and keeps my hands from overheating :lol:
Sorry for the off-topic comment, but do any of you know if the keyhole route has melted off? I'm hiking it next week with some visitors and didn't want to bring much snow/ice gear if the trough and other sections were already pretty dry. Thanks!
And great pics, too! Way to get after it boys! I bought those same tools this winter and LOVE them :)
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