Ellingwood Point Trip Report 05/12/2014

Peak(s):	Ellingwood Point - 14,057 feet
Date Posted:	05/12/2014
Modified:	04/13/2017
Date Climbed:	05/10/2014
Author:	druid2112

Ellingwood Point via South Zapata - Spring
When my Snowmass plans for the weekend got nixed by the impending storm, I set my sights on something I could knock out in a day. I was quite surprised to stumble upon this route description, given the number of hours I have spent poring over this site. Why had I never studied it? Seemed like a perfect fit for me and Henry the Camry to bag a peak and sleep at home Saturday night before the arrival of the storm. The drive from Boulder to the TH was rotten, etc, etc. I managed to fall asleep in the only car in the parking lot around midnight. I left the trailhead at 0530, not even needing the headlamp. The morning was sunny and warm and promised good weather for the day. A ways in, I caught the first good shot of Ellingwood up the valley. The trail remained mostly snow free until a half mile or so before where you're supposed to re-cross the creek. In short order I broke out of the trees for the last time and hit snow cover that was mostly-continuous, if not always deep. I stayed out in the snow and eventually turned a gentle corner and followed a line of snow up to the basin. The lake is such that you have to be almost on top of it to see it, especially with snow cover. The basin was a pretty awesome spot to find myself, so I had a bite and took it all in. I reached the base of the wall and stashed the snowshoes and poles for the return. I hadn't used them yet, but figured they would be handy on the way out after everything softened up in the afternoon. Besides, I consistently over-pack, but I try not to let it bother me. I figure it's not a bad habit when one does these solo, as I am wont to do. Be Prepared, and all, you know the drill. Anyway, up I went into the snow and enjoyed every minute of it. Sunshine, snow, nice temps, solitude, and a bit of a burner. Nice Saturday. The C2 couloir was in great shape. I was at the top of C2 before 10 and saw the remainder of the route. There was enough snow to keep things interesting from the saddle up to the final ridge stretch. Looking back to the saddle, Twin Peaks in the background. Things definitely got interesting the last few hundred meters. In normal conditions I'd have not thought much about most of it. With the snow and now a biting wind, plus the occasional rotten hold... let's just say I was ready to be on top. It's good to push your limits, and even better knowing them. Upon reaching the top, I didn't even need to think about Blanca. That face, from Ellingwood, is pretty impressive. From that vantage point it's hard to believe the standard route is Class 2. Hope to do it someday. This is really a great route, and my good luck with the weather and conditions - both great - made it really enjoyable. Shout out to Steve, Melanie, and Danielle (did I get all 3?) for the company up top. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Ellingwood Point via South Zapata - Spring

When my Snowmass plans for the weekend got nixed by the impending storm, I set my sights on something I could knock out in a day. I was quite surprised to stumble upon this route description, given the number of hours I have spent poring over this site. Why had I never studied it? Seemed like a perfect fit for me and Henry the Camry to bag a peak and sleep at home Saturday night before the arrival of the storm.

The drive from Boulder to the TH was rotten, etc, etc. I managed to fall asleep in the only car in the parking lot around midnight. I left the trailhead at 0530, not even needing the headlamp. The morning was sunny and warm and promised good weather for the day. A ways in, I caught the first good shot of Ellingwood up the valley.

The trail remained mostly snow free until a half mile or so before where you're supposed to re-cross the creek. In short order I broke out of the trees for the last time and hit snow cover that was mostly-continuous, if not always deep.

I stayed out in the snow and eventually turned a gentle corner and followed a line of snow up to the basin. The lake is such that you have to be almost on top of it to see it, especially with snow cover. The basin was a pretty awesome spot to find myself, so I had a bite and took it all in.

I reached the base of the wall and stashed the snowshoes and poles for the return. I hadn't used them yet, but figured they would be handy on the way out after everything softened up in the afternoon. Besides, I consistently over-pack, but I try not to let it bother me. I figure it's not a bad habit when one does these solo, as I am wont to do. Be Prepared, and all, you know the drill.

Anyway, up I went into the snow and enjoyed every minute of it. Sunshine, snow, nice temps, solitude, and a bit of a burner. Nice Saturday. The C2 couloir was in great shape.

I was at the top of C2 before 10 and saw the remainder of the route.

There was enough snow to keep things interesting from the saddle up to the final ridge stretch.

Looking back to the saddle, Twin Peaks in the background.

Things definitely got interesting the last few hundred meters. In normal conditions I'd have not thought much about most of it. With the snow and now a biting wind, plus the occasional rotten hold... let's just say I was ready to be on top. It's good to push your limits, and even better knowing them.

Upon reaching the top, I didn't even need to think about Blanca. That face, from Ellingwood, is pretty impressive. From that vantage point it's hard to believe the standard route is Class 2. Hope to do it someday.

This is really a great route, and my good luck with the weather and conditions - both great - made it really enjoyable. Shout out to Steve, Melanie, and Danielle (did I get all 3?) for the company up top.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

Jay521	That IS a nice route... 5/13/2014 2:55pm ... isn't it? And I'm guessing that C2 is probably easier in snow but the last few hundred meters to the top kinda balances it all out. Nice report and GREAT pix!
druid2112	Agreed 5/13/2014 3:17pm While the final push was a little messy, I would much rather do C2 with snow - can't imagine it's much fun without. Thanks!
AndYouSeeMe	Too good for the Lake Como road?? 5/13/2014 3:17pm I kid. What an awesome route up Ellingwood, I wish I had known about it before slogging up that damn road again. Thanks for the report and awesome pictures. I'm sure this route will gain popularity soon.
geojed	Preach it Brother! 5/13/2014 3:48pm Yep this route is AWESOME and I try to preach its virtues vs the hell that is Lake Como Rd to all that will hear. (I'm the author of the route page ) Druid, do you mind if I add some of your pictures to the route page to show the route in spring/snow conditions? I'll credit you on them.
druid2112	Absolutely - use all the pics you want 5/13/2014 4:04pm I'd be pleased to help! C2 in the conditions I had was a blast, really.
bergsteigen	Twin Peaks 5/13/2014 9:55pm Thanks for that shot, I had forgotten to take it myself last month, and didn't know if there was a skiable line.
Steve Nicholls	We're not alone? 5/14/2014 1:10am It was quite a surprise to see you on the summit. Nicely done. That ridge looked like a handful, but to avoid the road, maybe it's worth it? What a great day! Nice to meet you. Great pics. I may have to try that route myself one of these years. And, yes, you remembered all three of us correctly.
druid2112	Nice to meet you too 5/14/2014 2:26am And yes, it was quite a surprise after not seeing a soul all day to suddenly have company. Cheers, perhaps our paths will cross again.
daronshort	Crampons or Microspikes? 5/19/2014 7:18pm Did you use either up C2? Any idea on the slope angle?
druid2112	MIcrospikes 5/19/2014 8:42pm I probably could have used crampons but only used microspikes in the C2 and I was fine. Ice axe for sure though. Image #7 gives you an idea of the pitch near the top (It was my understanding that there would be no math). The bottom was gentler.

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