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Ellingwood Point 14,042
South Face from Lake Como
Starting Elevation ~9,700
Blind Mule (Don) Mickeys Grenade (Jeff)
What does it take to climb Ellingwood Point in winter? Some luck with the weather, a whole lot of effort, reasonable avy conditions, and some help from a Blind Mule (Don).
I had tried to climb Ellingwood Point a couple of weeks ago solo only to be turned around by poor visibilty and snow. This time I had a much better plan in place. I would try it over 2 days instead of one and also with a partner.
I met Don early Saturday morning at the I-25 and Lincoln park and ride at 4:30 a.m. We drove down to Pueblo and ate breakfast at the Cracker Barrel. Our last good meal for a couple of days. It was super windy on the drive down. I was wondering if our decision to go was a very good one or not. Forecast for Satuday was gusts to 50 mph and also gusts to 50 mph on Sunday. However, Satuday night was 10-15 mph. Saturday afternoon and Sunday morning were suppose to be much less wind. That would be our window to make an attempt on the summit. Temps were reasonable.
We got to the Lake Como Road and were able to drive around some snow and mud that had collected on the first flat section. With a stock 4WD 4-Runner, we were pushing the limits of the vehicle. Numerous times Don would have to get out and coach me through a tough section of rocks. Eventually there was enough snow to stop us and no place to turn around. As I was backing down the road I hit a large rock. The rock won.
Rock The Rock Won
The funny thing was is that I didn't really even care. I was very pleased with our progress and happy to be at 9,700. My last trip I started at 7,800. We got the car turned around and parked. We were well ahead of schedule with this high starting point.
Approach to Lake Como Little Bear Ellingwood Point
We made it up to the lake como cabin and got settled in. We brought a tarp and some nails so we could cover the window and the door. There is an ax up there that you can use as a hammer. Everything is still in place so it should be in good shape for future use.
Then we took off to break trail to get above treeline. It was tough work, but I was really happy to have the trench ready for the next day. We agreed on a 5 am start for Sunday morning. It was a fitful night. Neither one of us seemed to sleep very well.
Following our trench went quite well for us first thing in the morning. It is mindless and you can make decent progress. Our first major obstacle was the headwall above the Blue Lakes.
First Headwall First Headwall
It was exhausting work to get above this headwall. The snow had sections that were firm and we made steady progress toward Crater Lake. When we got to the back of the basin, we were nervous about all of the snow and what the avy conditions would be like. The snowpack seemed to be stable. There were no obvious signs of avalanche activity. We decided to head up the second headwall to gain the upper basin. It was getting steep enough that we had to carry our snowshoes and kick steps to finally reach it at around 13,300. We were definitely in avy terrain. CAIC said that persisent slabs were unlikely on northwest through southeast aspects. It also said that wind slabs were possible on north through south aspects.
We decided to continue. Snowshoes and one pole were cached. Ice ax, microspikes, and helmets were put on. Sometimes the snow steps were good and other times we were wallowing up to our knees. It was a real struggle to continue. Don was wasted and decided it was time to turn around. We were about 600 feet from the summit. I decided to continue. I finally reached the ridge after stuggling through a section that required knee deep wallowing. I was scared and very nervous to be in avy terrain. Then of course there is a false summit. I was so tired, but at this point I was determined to make it to the summit. Finally at around 11:30 am I reached the top.
Upper Basin Upper Basin Don Putting on Microspikes Route Remaining to the Ridge Almost to the ridge Looking Down Toward Crater Lake Crestones Looking West Blanca Lindsey Summit Photo Little Bear Summit Register
It was such a battle to reach the top. I was so happy to make it. All the effort seemed to be worth it at that moment. I enjoyed the stellar views in all directions. I'm very grateful to Don for going with me on this trip. There is no way I would have been able to summit without his help.
Crater Lake Start of Little Bear's Standard Route Lake Como Cabin
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
All the pics are great but I love the pic of the Crestones. The one you took of LB from the summit is pretty neat, too. Congrats on a well earned summit!
More gas than even a blind mule can muster 2/19/2014 12:52am
Congrats to Jeff on a very difficult summit. The amount of snow in the upper 2500' of that basin is certainly not what you would expect to encounter when admiring this group from hwy 160. I agree with you about the anxiety that wells up when on that last head wall to the ridge. Way to persevere dude.
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