Peak(s):  Haystack Rock - 7,438 feet
Date Posted:  09/02/2013
Modified:  02/20/2014
Date Climbed:   09/02/2013
Author:  Brian C
Additional Members:   JohnP FTC, Brian Kalet

 Haystack Rock, Larimer County - 5.x no more  

Haystack Rock via West Face (5.5) - Larimer County

September 2, 2013

Partners: Jen C., John P. & Brian K.

Approach: Park off of Cherokee Park Road at a small gate that is marked as state land. The "road" behind the gate is marked on the map and provided very easy hiking all the way to Haystack Rock. It is about 2 miles each way and apparently popular as a horse trail. Follow the road to a small junction with another road that is marked on the map. This junction would be easy to miss, but the road becomes apparent after you're on it. More easy hiking brings you to the base of the imposing Haystack Rock. Scramble up easy terrain to the base of the west face and rope up below the easy-looking slabs above.

P1 - 5.4 - Work up easy slabs and ledges while zig-zagging to find the easiest way. Belay at a nice ledge. 100'
P2 - 5.5 - Shimmy up the short offwidth above the ledge, and angle to the right over a few steeper steps. Angle back left across another slab to yet another nice belay ledge. 100'
P2.5 - 3rd class - Unrope and scramble across easy ledges to the left until it is possible to walk up to the summit.
**P1 and P2 could be combined, but rope drag would be a real pain.

Descent: Scramble back to the top of P2 and make a 200' rappel from a large slung block. Bring enough webbing to replace the old stuff (i.e. 20 feet).

TCUs: 0 - 4
C4s: 0.5 - 4
Single set stoppers
2 60M ropes (or tagline) are required for the rappelling descent.

Thoughts: We came to this rock armed for bear. Between the 4 of us, we had enough climbing gear to climb El Cap and make a new bolted descent route. Thankfully, we didn't need any of it and the rock went easily. There was not a single sign of any previous ascents and we we wondered if anybody had climbed this formation before. It is extremely doubtful that such a unique formation had not been climbed previously, but who knows. The climbing was enjoyable and provided an easy way up such a fierce looking rock. If approaching from Cherokee Park Rock, it is possible to stay on state land and therefore avoid any private land crossings. A very enjoyable outing and fun expierience on another "5.x" peak. Now 8,100' anybody???

More photos can be found here...


 Comments or Questions

09/03/2013 03:54
I like the Beta you guys provided, that looks pretty neat! And good to see you representing Larimer County.


09/03/2013 23:09
Go for it Brian, those three fingers of doom would be a sweet fall climb I'm sure!

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