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Peak(s)  Capitol Peak  -  14,138 feet
Date Posted  08/26/2013
Modified  09/18/2013
Date Climbed   08/17/2013
Author  Michael J
Additional Members   Oso Blanco, Colorado29, Cookiehiker, MicSchlachty
 Capitol Peak is one tough Cookie!   
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Photo by Chuck Erle


For the last 5 years, I've been on the same quest as many of you who frequent the 14ers.com website: to summit all 58 of Colorado's peaks that are over 14,000 feet in elevation. I'm getting closer with 53, but along the way I've developed a few favorites that I want to do many times. It's ok to do 'em again before I finish the list right? So far, I've become enamored with the Wilson's, the Crestones, and the Elks.

Figuratively speaking, the Elk mountain range is in my back yard so it was only natural to finish the 7 peaks there first. I did so last year at the fall gathering near Marble on the same day that I met Noel Johnson. She knew that I had just finished the Elks and she had just started. At some point we discussed climbing a peak or two around Aspen. Then at a 14ers happy hour in Denver she decided on Capitol peak. I was pretty happy about that decision because Capitol has been my favorite since I first climbed it in 2010.

At that same happy hour she introduced me to her long time climbing partner Chuck Erle. The three of us have communicated frequently for the last few months and set aside 3 days in the middle of August. As the dates for the trip grew closer we invited several more people to join but it didn't quite work out for any except Mike Schlachtenhaufen and Laura Weeks.

We decided to hike the six miles into Capitol Lake on Friday the 16th , set up camp and go for the summit on Saturday. Mike and Laura had a scheduling conflict on Friday but decided to drive up from Denver after work and hike into the Lake in the dark. That's not a typo, they actually hiked six miles under headlamps to find a campsite without yet knowing where we were. Ain't it cool to be young and ambitious?

Noel, Chuck, and I started down the trail just after 1:00 p.m on Friday and arrived at the numbered campsites about 5:00 p.m. We thought we could do it in 3 hours but it took 4. I think the majority of the 2,000 feet of gain to the lake comes in the last half of the hike....or is that just my legs and lungs talking? Mike and Laura arrived about 12:30 a.m. after finding a sign that we left for them at the turnoff to the Daly/Capitol saddle.

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Moon over the ridge - Photo by Chuck Erle


We set the alarms for 4:00 a.m. and were on the trail at 5:15. The 900 feet of gain up to the saddle between Mt. Daly and Capitol only took us about 45 minutes and we were already in need of a break. From the saddle you have to descend below the ridgeline that crosses over to K-2 on the left side. There is a sharply rising cliff band that you need to stay below. As we started somewhat of a traverse below the band, we realized that there was a trail far below us with people on it and we were all headed in the same direction. We considered going down to where they were but thought better of it and stayed level below the cliffs. It was our first taste of scrambling in a few places but we eventually ended up at the same place as the other group. All during this time we were finding cairns, so we figured there must be multiple trails.

Just before we caught up with the other group we stopped to take pictures of the sunrise.
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Sunrise over the Sawatch


It was just a preview of things to come. The terrain eventually changed into more of a boulder field that leads you straight up to K-2. From the bottom of the boulder field up to the base of K-2 is a long haul but we finally arrived at a nice stopping place just before you can really see what this 13er is all about. As we were having a little snack and talking I was thinking to myself "They are about to see something dramatically different from what we've been hiking on all day".
We were discussing whether to go over the top or traversing around K-2. Chuck is a photographer so I suggested that it would be a better view of Capitol to go over the top. I think he had that in mind already and agreed. When our break was over it was just before 8:00 and we moved right up to the base of K-2. From this vantage point you could see the options for getting past it. Mike, Chuck, and I decided to go over the top, but the girls wanted to traverse around. There was an older gentleman there that wanted us to go around him because I think he wanted to see how to handle a particularly tricky move. He was taking the traverse and he reminded me of myself three years ago. This is the area where confidence is shaken and the mind can become doubtful. I'm not sure exactly how this next part happened but I think the girls started into the traverse and were a little shaken by how loose it was and the exposure to a very steep gulley. Mike let them know that where the guys were was very solid so they headed up to where we were at.
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Laura and Noel coming up K-2. Photo by Mike S

I was so glad that we were all going to summit this 13er together.
Topping out over K-2 is an experience that is difficult to put into words. The first time I was on this peak I traversed around K-2 so today's experience was a first for me. The summit is tiny with very little room to stand. But when you arrive the view is almost overwhelming. A full 360 degree view of the Elk mountain range that includes Sopris, Snowmass, The Bells, Pyramid, Castle and Conundrum. And of course, the Beast is right in front of you about a quarter to half mile away. As a painting, it is one that is so intense that it could only come from the hand of God. It just sends your spirits soaring until the realization drapes over you that you still have to climb it. Mike S was so excited that he could barely contain himself. I think that we all felt the same way and his enthusiasm for the task at hand was contagious.
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All 5 of us on K-2 in front of "The Beast" Photo by Chuck Erle
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Capitol Peak from K-2. Photo by Mike S
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Discussing the upcoming route. Photo by Chuck Erle


As we down climbed K-2 on the north side, we realized why the traverse is considered the easier route despite the loose rock. This part of the climb is no picnic but with experienced people I think it is a viable option. Just taking your time, studying the terrain carefully, and moving slowly will give a safe down climb.
After K-2 there is a little bit of rough terrain to go over before you come to the knife edge. It was here that we encountered a second man that asked us to go around him. We asked if he was sure and he said "Yes, I'm done". It's good to know your limits and not push them beyond your abilities. Noel wanted to get a picture here of the rest of us and as we were positioning Chuck tripped on some jagged rocks and fell on his knee.
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Taken by Noel just before the knife edge.


It was the first of many beatings that he took throughout the day.
There are actually three sections to the knife edge and the one that is most commonly seen in the videos and pictures is the middle one. We crossed the first one with little difficulty and arrived at the middle one to find the same group of people that we had taken a break with earlier. They asked us to pass them and then we saw why. They had a leader who was preparing to set anchors and string a rope across the edge for an extra safety precaution.
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Laura on the knife edge. Notice the leader behind her stringing rope and not wearing a helmet. Photo by Mike S
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The knife edge is nerve racking the first time you start across it but most people quickly realize that it is solid and they settle right into their own method of travel. It can be done many different ways. All of our group found what they were comfortable with and I think the nervousness dissipated as we reached the other side.

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Noel on the balance beam. Photo by Chuck Erle
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Photo by Chuck Erle



The push for the summit was on now and we hugged the ridge to the left side. We were ascending but as you move across the peak you are actually dropping further and further below the ridgeline. With five pairs of eyes watching for cairns it was fairly easy to make sure that we were on track. We arrived at what I consider to be the most dangerous part of the route.

There is a wide gulley of polished rock that drops away from the summit. I'm guessing that in late winter and early spring this area becomes a place where several gulleys come together and the melting of snow has left much of the rock smooth. An additional problem is a combination of the smooth hard rock mixed in with areas of smaller crumbling rock. I was nervous crossing it 3 years ago and today was no different. We were ascending on the right side of the gulley to a place where the crossing looked a little more solid. I have no doubt that we were in the right place because all of us could see double cairns across on the other side of the gulley where we were heading. And then a near disaster happened.

Chuck stepped onto some rocks that seemed pretty solid and they collapsed under his feet. He went down hard and landed in an awkward position sitting with his legs up underneath him. He was grabbing for something to hold onto and a hail of rocks were sent down the mountain. Noel was directly in their path. Chuck was yelling "Rock!" even as he was falling but it happened so fast that Noel couldn't get out of the way. She reacted quickly, grabbed something to hold onto and buried her face into the side of the mountain.

Many of the rocks were golf ball sized but there were several that were 6" - 10" in diameter. A couple of the larger ones pounded her helmet and a couple more smashed her shoulder and left arm. When it finally stopped, we rushed in to pull her out of the gulley and got her onto a solid rock to sit on to check her injuries. She was panicked of course and hyperventilating. While she was trying to calm herself down I looked at her arm and it had swollen in a matter of seconds to the size of the curve on a softball. About the time that the breathing slowed down, she also looked down and noticed her arm. The panic started all over again. I was sure it was broken. Even as I'm writing this a week later I have a bit of a lump in my throat.

Mike S had First Response training and immediately asked her some questions to assess the damage. It was determined that it was not a full break but possibly a deep bruise or hairline fracture. Chuck had a cold compress, Mike had Ace bandage wrapping, and I had plenty of Ibuprofen. I think we had 5 first aid kits between us. I went up to check on Chuck and he said he was fine but I learned differently later. After a week of medical assessment: Noel's arm was not broken but a CT scan revealed a concussion. Despite saying he was ok, Chuck had surgery on Friday for a torn meniscus in his knee. Our two friends were truly the walking wounded and I was sure that our day was done.

After everything had calmed down, Noel said in an almost angry voice "Lets get this thing over with, Let's get to the summit!." You don't argue with that kind of determination. We were still 200 - 300 feet below the summit and there was still a lot of route finding and Class 4 climbing to go.
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Chuck and Laura next to the gully by the double cairns.


It was nerve racking the rest of the way but we finally topped out at 10:20 a.m. Arriving at the summit is always the reward and the most jubilant time but never more so than today.

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Mike S redressing the bandaged arm.
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Noel on the summit-with her bandaged arm. Notice the guy behind her with a clipboard taking a survey!
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The Capitol Creek valley Photo by Mike S

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Laura's last move before the summit. Photo by Mike S


The summit on this day was crowded. With soggy weather the last few weeks, the climbers in the state jump on a weather window and take on the difficult peaks. A couple of things to note: there was a CU Boulder Medical student on the peak asking people to fill out surveys. You just can't escape these people! Also, when a mentor of mine Clifford Dossigny found out that I was climbing Capitol he asked me to call him and he arranged to be in the Snowmass Village valley. We exchange mirror flashes and he was able to photograph my flash coming from Capitol Peak!
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Mirror reflection from Capitol Peak. Taken from the Brush Creek Valley by Clifford Dossigny
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Cookies on the summit! Photo by Noel

After a much deserved rest, food, drinks, and of course cookies, we started the descent at 11:15 a.m. The way down never seems to look the same way as it did on the way up, so it's like a whole new route finding adventure.
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The start of the descent.

We arrived again at the knife edge and this time I don't think anybody was worried about the exposure. It was almost a relief to be back on solid ground and away from the loose crumbling rock. In fact I think it was almost fun this time to cross all 3 sections.
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Mike S on the Knife Edge
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I think this is where Laura pulled out her Iphone, took a video from the knife edge, and texted it to her friends!
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Crossing back over the Knife Edge. Photo by Mike S
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Laura's balancing act on the Knife Edge Photo by Mike S
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OK, so I was having some fun too! Photo by Mike S
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Mike S on The Knife Edge. Looks like he's riding the beast! Photo By Laura


As we arrived again at K-2 we all thought it would be easiest to just traverse around. Turns out it was no easy task on the return either. We followed cairns and were on an obvious trail and it just ended, leaving us about 75 feet above the real trail below. As we looked over the situation it appeared to be easier to resummit K-2 and then come down the same way we came in. I think it was the right choice but we had yet another tense moment. I stepped on something that looked solid and it disappeared under my feet. Rocks falling again, but fortunately everyone was just off to the side out of the way.
When we finally got below K-2 it was time for a much deserved break. We took a few minutes to make phone calls (Great cell service from the Roaring Fork Valley) to let contacts know we were out of danger. As we descended down through the boulder field Chuck's knee gave out on him and he fell forward, doing a faceplant on the rocks. He really took a beating. Noel slipped and caught herself with the bandaged arm and yelled out in pain. Then she started speaking in a different language, one that can only be translated by drunken sailors. We were ready for this day to be over!
We finally arrived at the saddle between Capitol and Daly and camp was in site. Noel started singing in yet a third language, the one that sounds like Julie Andrews in "The Sound of Music". "The hills are alive..." ahh you know the rest.
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Return to the saddle.


Back to camp at 5:23 p.m. for a much longer day than expected. The original plan was to hike the six miles back out to the trailhead that day, but another night under the stars sounded much more appealing.
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Noel's damaged arm. Photo by Chuck Erle


Up the next morning and on the trail by 9:00, we had a leisurely hike to the cars, arriving at noon. Total hiking/climbing time of 19:08.
I have one thing left to say: Noel, Chuck, Laura, and Mike; This trip was one of the best I've ever been on! Despite way more adversity than I expected, we were a pretty darn good team. It was an honor to be a part of this group!



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
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Comments or Questions
Alpineair
User
Well done!!!
8/27/2013 12:39pm
Great read and photos


Cookiehiker
User
Spectacular report!
8/27/2013 1:44pm
Mike, not only are you a superb, confident, and skilled hiker/climber...you are a truly delightful, patient, and informative man, and it was an absolute joy getting to finally hike with you....and what a mountain to do it on!!!!

I would not have been able to continue on after the rockfall incident without the confidence I had in your leadership of this hike. Our group worked very well together in all aspects of encouragement, route finding, and helping one another in times of need (through step placement, wound wrapping, and overall motivational pep talks)!
To Chuck, Laura, and Mike S....what an honor to have hiked this awesome mountain with you guys, as well!!!! Can't wait for the next one!

It was a tough mountain, but together, we ROCKED it!!

Thank you again, Mike, for providing me an experience of a lifetime on the hardest 14er in Colorado!!!


Michael J
User
Best. Trip. Ever.
8/27/2013 2:28pm
Some of my friends have asked if I want to stay away from this mountain forever after the crazy stuff that's happened on both occasions. My reply: of course not! Despite all that's happened it remains as my favorite 14er and never fails to produce adventure and amazing beauty. It's been an honor to hike/ climb with you!


anasarca76
User
Wow guys!
8/27/2013 3:12pm
I'm so glad to hear everyone is doing ok! Sounds like you had a true adventure! Great work on a very hard mountain!


semitrueskerm
User
Wow
8/27/2013 3:17pm
Damn! I wish I would have been filming a reality show with you all on Capitol that day.
Noel, hope your melon and limb are better. Chuck, sorry to hear about your injury.
Excellent report and for anyone who has ever climbed Capitol, this report brings you back to your own experience on that mountain.
Thankfully, my climbe was less dramatic, although, returning over the Knife's Edge, right on the middle section when a crack of thunder & lightning occurred is something I will never forget and hope to never repeat.
Congrats to all on a well-earned summit.
Capitol is a monster.


glodder
User
Great Trip!
8/27/2013 3:22pm
Wow, what an amazing read. Noel and Chuck, I'm so happy you guys made it out OK, and it sounded overall like an exciting trip on a great mountain. You guys definitely rocked it! Michael, this is one of the best trip reports on this site and I'm looking forward to climbing with you this coming weekend.

Todd


TheSteege
User
Excellent Pics
8/27/2013 3:35pm
Sorry I missed this


Brian Thomas
User
Great TR!
8/27/2013 3:36pm
Thanks for posting this


Colorado29
User
Great job sir!
8/27/2013 3:40pm
What a fun weekend. I don't think I've ever been more mentally and physically exhausted but it was worth every minute. I wouldn't want to do it with anyone else but the group we did it with. Fun times! Thanks for writing this :D


Jay521
User
Mucho congrats
8/27/2013 3:48pm
on a great climb and a wonderful report. As an ex sailor, I can empathize with Noel's ”second language”. I just hope the damage to her arm doesn't get in the way of her making those wonderful cookies!


bergsteigen
User
Capitol is a beast!
8/27/2013 4:09pm
Glad you guys were able to tame it, a little. Hopefully the scars will heal quickly, and everyone will be back out there soon!


rajz06
User
Kudos...
8/27/2013 4:20pm
...to the entire gang on completing the climb safely despite the setbacks. Your story is a true triumph of mind over matter!


Oso Blanco
User
Well done crew!
8/27/2013 7:59pm
Nice Mikey J! Well composed, and a fine selection of pics makes re-living the good times and the perils of the hike on Capitol one for the books this summer! It was my pleasure to accompany you all on this one and looking forward to more with this gang!


Fisching
User
Hell Hath No Fury...
8/27/2013 9:29pm
Like the granite rock of the Elks.


MicSchlachty
User
thanks
8/27/2013 11:16pm
It was such a great climb and an honor to climb with you guys, the night trek was totally worth it and i look forward to climbing with you guys again!! thanks for the invite :)

p.s. great job on the report Mike


EVEREST DREAMS
User
Great report
8/28/2013 1:13am
Hey Mike meet you last year on El D. Looks like you're getting close. What ones are you doing next?


Michael J
User
Looking forward...
8/28/2013 2:27am
...to a beer with Kush. I saw your response when Gladbach went missing. When Noel told you about the rockfall issue, we were all halfway expecting you to show up in camp that night with beer and pizza! @ Everest Dreams - I remember that day. Congrats on finishing! I've got Chicago basin and Pikes left. @ Fisching - I'd love to meet you someday and you're right on target about the Elks; rotten to the core.


kushrocks
User
Only Noel
8/29/2013 3:02am
would take rocks to the head and arm then continue on to summit the beast known as Capitol, update faceboook with a cheery tone, and motor all the way back down with a smile on her face. Glad everyone made it out safely and will be ok.

You are all bad asses


mattingley
User
Nice report!
8/29/2013 5:35am
Great photos! What an amazing area!


d_baker
User
survey questions
9/1/2013 12:51pm
What were the questions from the surveyor dude?

@ strawser: why is he an ass for asking questions?

I'm glad the team was able to walk away without further harm or injuries. Kudos for keeping it together.
And, I think I need to meet Noel someday (and hopefully on a summit) to try some of those cookies!


Michael J
User
Surveys
9/1/2013 3:16pm
The guy doing the surveys was a nice enough guy, in fact he even took a look at Noel's arm since he was a medical student. To us though it was just a strange place to be doing surveys and maybe not something you want to be bothered with on the summit. He wasn't forceful either and many people refused. The questions were about general first aid in the wilderness or places like we were. One in particular caught my eye: On a scale of 1 - 10, what is your happiness level right now?


d_baker
User
your scale results
9/1/2013 9:23pm
So what was your level of happiness?!

I met a guy on Culebra a couple of weeks ago that was also doing a data collection, but more from an observation standpoint and it was on the impacts of the 14ers. He was hiking all of the 14ers this summer (only had the Blanca group left) for his paper. It was a school project of some kind, can't remember for sure but I think it was his thesis or something like that. Kind of interesting, although I didn't get to talk to him much and I don't know what kind of observation notes he took.


Hungry Jack
User
Noel = Total Badass
3/5/2015 7:15pm
In a good way. Get fully well soon!


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