Longs Peak Trip Report 08/23/2013

Report Type	Full
Peak(s)	Longs Peak - 14,259 feet
Date Posted	08/23/2013
Date Climbed	08/12/2013
Author	JROSKA

Keyhole - Enjoyable Class 3 Intro
I understand that there is probably an abundance of Longs Peak trip reports here. But as I finally got the courage up to attempt a Class 3 mountain, I wanted to share the experience. While my report probably won't have much meaning to very experienced or accomplished climbers, hopefully it can provide a little inspiration to those who have developed an adequate level of familiarity with Class 2 terrain, and feel ready to test their limits on the next level. Heading into this summer, my peak list included a respectable variety of Class 2 mountains, including Mt. Lindsey and Castle Peak. I've always felt that my coordination is very strong, and in my limited experience with exposure, I've never caught myself recoiling or over-thinking. Due to a couple of shoulder surgeries, upper body strength is not great, but it's adequate and improving every day. With that in mind, I set myself one strict goal this summer to attempt a Class 3 peak. As August arrived, I knew it was time to move on this goal, and kicked the tires on a few ideas. In the end, the thinking became, "why not Longs". With that peak, it's not that I felt that I would encounter anything that I couldn't handle technically; rather, based on past experience, I wasn't sure that I could manage 5000+ feet of elevation gain in one day. However, being in mid-season form, and with an air of confidence, I decided to give Longs my best shot on August 12. Even on a Monday, the trailhead was percolating with activity when I arrived at 2:15, as a solo hiker. I quickly organized the backpack, dressed for the 40-degree night, strapped on the headlamp, and started up the Keyhole Route at 2:30. I knew that I'd be shedding layers later, but gloves were a definite necessity for the first few hours. I quickly made my way toward tree-line, reminding myself, left, left, right, left - the proper way to handle each trail junction. I made Jim's Grove by 4, and that's where my speed slowed a bit. One reason for going solo on this hike, was that I really had no idea what my pace would be through the duration of a 15-mile trip, and actually, my expectations of reaching the summit weren't overly high. I just wanted to go it alone, see how I did, and not be a drag on another individual in any way. So, I stopped often to admire the classic trail of headlamps in the calm night air. When I reached Granite Pass a little past 5, with the first hint of sunlight, feeling a tad dizzy, a bit of doubt crept in. I started doing too much math, involving total elevation, and how much I had left. I took an extended rest there, to mull everything over. I pushed on, but changed my plan to "Reach the Keyhole, see how I feel". I marched up into the Boulder Field with a nice guy named Eric; I appreciated his words of encouragement. I definitely felt an energy surge with the rising sun. My pace quickened through the relatively flat terrain as the Keyhole came into view. It was about 6:30, and I knew that the moment of truth would soon be upon me. I now felt great, but was really focused on reaching the Keyhole, taking a few steps past, reviewing the terrain, gauging my emotions, and deciding on "go, or no go". At this point, 7:00 AM on August 12, 2013, I officially joined the "Piece of Cake" club. We've all seen its members on 14ers.com. The guy who says "Pyramid Peak? It's a glorified staircase. Piece of cake!" I relaxed at the Keyhole, evaluated the sky, and conversed with several other people. As I did all of this, and peered south through the Ledges, all I could think was, "That's it?? Piece of cake." In all seriousness, I snapped myself out of that line of thinking, because I hate it, and that type of cockiness always invites some degree of trouble. But as I climbed across the Ledges, I was surprised by how free and easy I felt. At times, I could sense the exposure to my right, but generally found it very easy to stay away from. I enjoyed the moderate use of the arms and upper body during this stretch, and in no time at all, I reached the Trough. This entire area had a somewhat ominous feel to it, because all sunlight seemed to disappear past the Keyhole. I liked it; it added to the suspense. I temporarily teamed up with two younger climbers, Lindy and Kincaid. Slow and steady, to the top of the Trough. This brought back memories of the gully on Mt. Lindsey. However, I felt that the rock here was so much more stable. On Lindsey, it's mainly about using the arms for assistance in case rocks start moving below your feet. Here, the arms are actually required for upward movement - textbook difference between Class 2+ and 3, I guess. However, the size, and (perceived) stability of these rocks, made me feel much more secure, and in control, than in the Lindsey gully. For me, the moves near the top of the Trough proved to be the most challenging part of the route. Kincaid commented that it would be twice as challenging to down-climb, and that assessment turned out to be accurate. Challenging, yes. But I was very pleased to finally face the requirement of utilizing the upper body in a climb, and especially, the weak left shoulder. Use of both arms was essential, and for much more than just balance. It held up very well, and passed this test with flying colors. Suddenly, the Narrows appeared. Once again, I felt myself becoming "that guy"; i.e., "Piece of cake". True, there is some immediate, major, and noticeable exposure down to the right. Pictures probably don't do it justice. However, the cliché of "focus on what's in front of you" really rings true up there. It's really just walking. Move slow, exercise caution, step by step, and be conscious of the backpack. There is one somewhat challenging move upward through a tight space, but to me, it did not seem close in proximity to any exposure. I've heard so much about the Narrows over the years; it gets a lot of hype. For sure, being up there in slippery conditions would give me pause. But they were bone dry on this day, and I found it to be more than manageable. Some family members back in Wisconsin called me "crazy" for not turning around at this point. Flatlanders. I don't take advice or input from anyone who finds joy and excitement in sweltering in a rickety boat for 9 hours, on a 90-degree day, with 90% humidity, waiting for some poor fish to impale itself on a filthy, rusty hook. I digress. Prior to undertaking Longs, I had some minor concerns that, given my issues with upper body strength, possibly I wouldn't be able to make it up the Homestretch. It is definitely steep, and again, I was happy that it was dry. But once up there, just like in the Trough, I found it to be very doable, and rewarding. There were plenty of footholds and handholds, to get this done. There were a few minor logjams as people searched for them; it was a bit crowded. At one point, I asked someone behind me if he wanted to pass. To my surprise, he replied, "No sweat - the summit is right there." I looked up about 10 feet, and sure enough, hello. I was so focused on the task at hand - if not for that exchange, I probably would have stumbled onto the summit, without even realizing that it was right in front of me! At 9:15, I reached the summit of Longs Peak. 6 hours, 45 minutes, won't set any speed records, but I really had to pace myself for this one or I would have worn myself out before the Boulder Field. And for me, "slow and steady" had to be the rule of the day, as I navigated through extensive Class 3 terrain for the first time. Given that I stayed on the summit for 30 minutes, and got back to the Keyhole at noon, interestingly, the down-climb of the Class 3 portion took exactly the same amount of time (2:15) as the ascent. Basically, the Homestretch, and the upper Trough, are more difficult to descend than to ascend. But again, care and caution - look for handholds and footholds, don't make any move you're not comfortable with, everything will be fine - that's what I kept telling myself. I arrived back at the parking lot at 2:50, meaning that it took me just under two hours to traverse the entire route below the Boulder Field. Lightning and hail always kick me into a higher gear. This was actually the quickest I've seen the weather do an about-face on a 14er. Back near the Keyhole, the skies were blue. Less than 15 minutes later, in the Boulder Field, there was lots of thunder and rapidly deteriorating visibility. At least, my latest sprint off of a mountain can't be blamed on a late start; I used to do that a lot, but have left those days behind me. Sometimes, weather-wise, things just happen quickly up there. I wasn't expecting things to hit that early. Being above the tree-line wasn't ideal, but the 2:30 start time, at least, allowed me to be off of the Class 3 terrain by the time the hail commenced. I was thankful for that. I am very satisfied with my first venture into the realm of Class 3, and ecstatic that I was able to reach the summit of Longs. In hindsight, in terms of Class 3, this was probably "jumping into the pool", when there are other ways to "wade in and test the waters". But to anyone who has a few Class 2 mountains under their belt, and wants to try the next level, I would say, by all means, go for it. It's definitely a rewarding splash. Even if you don't make it all the way to the summit, Longs offers an excellent opportunity to experience several aspects of Class 3 territory. I do, however, think that it's extremely important to have some degree of Class 2 experience before undertaking something like Longs. I don't have an exact number of mountains or years, but I have heard that many folks decide on Longs as their first 14er, and I'm not sure that I see the sense in that. It's not about physical conditioning, technical difficulty, comfort with exposure, or accepting new challenges. Rather, it's about seasoning. It took me two years to develop any feel for analyzing mountain weather, both forecasts and live development, and even longer to learn not to feel a tremendous sense of failure when a summit is not reached. To my eye, anything past the Keyhole would represent a very bad place to be during deteriorating weather or slippery conditions, so, decision-making, analysis, and problem-solving skills need to be honed and fine-tuned before tackling Longs. Generally speaking, that can only come from experience. Longs is a very respectable mountain, and it certainly earned mine. All in all, I really enjoyed my experience up there, and found it to be extremely rewarding. Class 2 is probably where I'm most comfortable, and while I'm not sure of the frequency of any future visits to Class 3, I will be back. That's a guarantee. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Keyhole - Enjoyable Class 3 Intro

I understand that there is probably an abundance of Longs Peak trip reports here. But as I finally got the courage up to attempt a Class 3 mountain, I wanted to share the experience. While my report probably won't have much meaning to very experienced or accomplished climbers, hopefully it can provide a little inspiration to those who have developed an adequate level of familiarity with Class 2 terrain, and feel ready to test their limits on the next level.

Heading into this summer, my peak list included a respectable variety of Class 2 mountains, including Mt. Lindsey and Castle Peak. I've always felt that my coordination is very strong, and in my limited experience with exposure, I've never caught myself recoiling or over-thinking. Due to a couple of shoulder surgeries, upper body strength is not great, but it's adequate and improving every day. With that in mind, I set myself one strict goal this summer to attempt a Class 3 peak.

As August arrived, I knew it was time to move on this goal, and kicked the tires on a few ideas. In the end, the thinking became, "why not Longs". With that peak, it's not that I felt that I would encounter anything that I couldn't handle technically; rather, based on past experience, I wasn't sure that I could manage 5000+ feet of elevation gain in one day. However, being in mid-season form, and with an air of confidence, I decided to give Longs my best shot on August 12.

Even on a Monday, the trailhead was percolating with activity when I arrived at 2:15, as a solo hiker. I quickly organized the backpack, dressed for the 40-degree night, strapped on the headlamp, and started up the Keyhole Route at 2:30.

I knew that I'd be shedding layers later, but gloves were a definite necessity for the first few hours. I quickly made my way toward tree-line, reminding myself, left, left, right, left - the proper way to handle each trail junction. I made Jim's Grove by 4, and that's where my speed slowed a bit. One reason for going solo on this hike, was that I really had no idea what my pace would be through the duration of a 15-mile trip, and actually, my expectations of reaching the summit weren't overly high. I just wanted to go it alone, see how I did, and not be a drag on another individual in any way.

So, I stopped often to admire the classic trail of headlamps in the calm night air. When I reached Granite Pass a little past 5, with the first hint of sunlight, feeling a tad dizzy, a bit of doubt crept in. I started doing too much math, involving total elevation, and how much I had left. I took an extended rest there, to mull everything over. I pushed on, but changed my plan to "Reach the Keyhole, see how I feel".

I marched up into the Boulder Field with a nice guy named Eric; I appreciated his words of encouragement. I definitely felt an energy surge with the rising sun.

My pace quickened through the relatively flat terrain as the Keyhole came into view.

It was about 6:30, and I knew that the moment of truth would soon be upon me. I now felt great, but was really focused on reaching the Keyhole, taking a few steps past, reviewing the terrain, gauging my emotions, and deciding on "go, or no go".

At this point, 7:00 AM on August 12, 2013, I officially joined the "Piece of Cake" club. We've all seen its members on 14ers.com. The guy who says "Pyramid Peak? It's a glorified staircase. Piece of cake!" I relaxed at the Keyhole, evaluated the sky, and conversed with several other people. As I did all of this, and peered south through the Ledges, all I could think was, "That's it?? Piece of cake."

In all seriousness, I snapped myself out of that line of thinking, because I hate it, and that type of cockiness always invites some degree of trouble. But as I climbed across the Ledges, I was surprised by how free and easy I felt. At times, I could sense the exposure to my right, but generally found it very easy to stay away from. I enjoyed the moderate use of the arms and upper body during this stretch, and in no time at all, I reached the Trough.

This entire area had a somewhat ominous feel to it, because all sunlight seemed to disappear past the Keyhole. I liked it; it added to the suspense. I temporarily teamed up with two younger climbers, Lindy and Kincaid. Slow and steady, to the top of the Trough.

This brought back memories of the gully on Mt. Lindsey. However, I felt that the rock here was so much more stable. On Lindsey, it's mainly about using the arms for assistance in case rocks start moving below your feet. Here, the arms are actually required for upward movement - textbook difference between Class 2+ and 3, I guess. However, the size, and (perceived) stability of these rocks, made me feel much more secure, and in control, than in the Lindsey gully. For me, the moves near the top of the Trough proved to be the most challenging part of the route. Kincaid commented that it would be twice as challenging to down-climb, and that assessment turned out to be accurate. Challenging, yes. But I was very pleased to finally face the requirement of utilizing the upper body in a climb, and especially, the weak left shoulder. Use of both arms was essential, and for much more than just balance. It held up very well, and passed this test with flying colors.

Suddenly, the Narrows appeared.

Once again, I felt myself becoming "that guy"; i.e., "Piece of cake". True, there is some immediate, major, and noticeable exposure down to the right. Pictures probably don't do it justice. However, the cliché of "focus on what's in front of you" really rings true up there. It's really just walking. Move slow, exercise caution, step by step, and be conscious of the backpack. There is one somewhat challenging move upward through a tight space, but to me, it did not seem close in proximity to any exposure. I've heard so much about the Narrows over the years; it gets a lot of hype. For sure, being up there in slippery conditions would give me pause. But they were bone dry on this day, and I found it to be more than manageable. Some family members back in Wisconsin called me "crazy" for not turning around at this point. Flatlanders. I don't take advice or input from anyone who finds joy and excitement in sweltering in a rickety boat for 9 hours, on a 90-degree day, with 90% humidity, waiting for some poor fish to impale itself on a filthy, rusty hook.

I digress. Prior to undertaking Longs, I had some minor concerns that, given my issues with upper body strength, possibly I wouldn't be able to make it up the Homestretch. It is definitely steep, and again, I was happy that it was dry. But once up there, just like in the Trough, I found it to be very doable, and rewarding. There were plenty of footholds and handholds, to get this done. There were a few minor logjams as people searched for them; it was a bit crowded.

At one point, I asked someone behind me if he wanted to pass. To my surprise, he replied, "No sweat - the summit is right there." I looked up about 10 feet, and sure enough, hello. I was so focused on the task at hand - if not for that exchange, I probably would have stumbled onto the summit, without even realizing that it was right in front of me!

At 9:15, I reached the summit of Longs Peak.

6 hours, 45 minutes, won't set any speed records, but I really had to pace myself for this one or I would have worn myself out before the Boulder Field. And for me, "slow and steady" had to be the rule of the day, as I navigated through extensive Class 3 terrain for the first time. Given that I stayed on the summit for 30 minutes, and got back to the Keyhole at noon, interestingly, the down-climb of the Class 3 portion took exactly the same amount of time (2:15) as the ascent. Basically, the Homestretch, and the upper Trough, are more difficult to descend than to ascend. But again, care and caution - look for handholds and footholds, don't make any move you're not comfortable with, everything will be fine - that's what I kept telling myself.

I arrived back at the parking lot at 2:50, meaning that it took me just under two hours to traverse the entire route below the Boulder Field. Lightning and hail always kick me into a higher gear. This was actually the quickest I've seen the weather do an about-face on a 14er. Back near the Keyhole, the skies were blue. Less than 15 minutes later, in the Boulder Field, there was lots of thunder and rapidly deteriorating visibility.

At least, my latest sprint off of a mountain can't be blamed on a late start; I used to do that a lot, but have left those days behind me. Sometimes, weather-wise, things just happen quickly up there. I wasn't expecting things to hit that early. Being above the tree-line wasn't ideal, but the 2:30 start time, at least, allowed me to be off of the Class 3 terrain by the time the hail commenced. I was thankful for that.

I am very satisfied with my first venture into the realm of Class 3, and ecstatic that I was able to reach the summit of Longs. In hindsight, in terms of Class 3, this was probably "jumping into the pool", when there are other ways to "wade in and test the waters". But to anyone who has a few Class 2 mountains under their belt, and wants to try the next level, I would say, by all means, go for it. It's definitely a rewarding splash. Even if you don't make it all the way to the summit, Longs offers an excellent opportunity to experience several aspects of Class 3 territory. I do, however, think that it's extremely important to have some degree of Class 2 experience before undertaking something like Longs. I don't have an exact number of mountains or years, but I have heard that many folks decide on Longs as their first 14er, and I'm not sure that I see the sense in that. It's not about physical conditioning, technical difficulty, comfort with exposure, or accepting new challenges. Rather, it's about seasoning. It took me two years to develop any feel for analyzing mountain weather, both forecasts and live development, and even longer to learn not to feel a tremendous sense of failure when a summit is not reached. To my eye, anything past the Keyhole would represent a very bad place to be during deteriorating weather or slippery conditions, so, decision-making, analysis, and problem-solving skills need to be honed and fine-tuned before tackling Longs. Generally speaking, that can only come from experience.

Longs is a very respectable mountain, and it certainly earned mine. All in all, I really enjoyed my experience up there, and found it to be extremely rewarding. Class 2 is probably where I'm most comfortable, and while I'm not sure of the frequency of any future visits to Class 3, I will be back. That's a guarantee.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

SolarAlex	nice work! 8/24/2013 1:15pm i remember feeling that same feeling that you described about it being much easier than anticipated...congrats!
MtnHub	Good job! 8/24/2013 1:58pm Everybody, even those current hardcore ”piece of cake” demon climbers, all started where you did at one point, so don't compare yourself to them yet. And I agree, all the hype and talk about the scary places on Longs can make it worse than it actually is. If you focus on the step in front of you, it really isn't that bad. And because Longs is so popular with climbers, it's also a good place to try out a class 3 climb. I always find some great people along the way to share the experience with, to get and give encouragement to, and it can make a big difference. Congratulations on your summit! :D
Tornadoman	Nice Step Up! 8/24/2013 2:26pm Longs is a pretty decent class 3 route, with a bunch of scrambling. There are certainly easier class 3 routes out there, so nice job stepping up to the challenge. I am sure you will be adding a lot more class 3 routes to your climbing resume soon!
EZSide	Nice report 8/24/2013 2:45pm And well done. Bill
jimcook100	Congrats! 8/25/2013 1:40am Exceptional report. You make it a great glimpse into the do-ability of Longs for someone considering. But also very realistic.
wrxpilot	Awesome write up! 8/25/2013 4:21am I've been staring up at Long's for many years... Your excellent report might just be the motivation I need. Thanks!
alpinedivine	This is a model trip report 8/25/2013 4:27am Well done and congrats
JROSKA	Thanks 8/25/2013 9:18pm Thanks, everyone, for the compliments on both the summit and the trip report. Due to Longs' immense popularity, I tried very hard to present it in a fashion that was unique and meaningful. It was a memorable experience; I'm glad that I was able to share it effectively.
Deathmarch Queen	NICE REPORT 8/26/2013 4:45am After reading your trip report I am feeling a little better about tackling this peak next week. It has been on my goal list for 2 years and will finally happen if weather cooperates. Thanks!
thill	Great Report-Thanks 8/26/2013 6:06pm Enjoyed reading the report. I plan on tackling Longs later this week and this report was very helpful.
Ben D	I was up there the same day 9/5/2013 4:41am Funny, I think I remember seeing you up there on the hike. I'm the guy with the white helmet strapped to his back in your photo of the ledges. That was an awesome day apart from the afternoon hailstorm.
JROSKA	Interesting 9/8/2013 6:12am @Ben, funny that someone in one of my pictures recognized themselves. Out of consideration for others, and also because it can detract from the natural scenery, I generally try to avoid random people from appearing in the frame. But I suppose that's very difficult to pull off on Longs. Since you were ahead of me and I really wasn't passing anyone by that point, I'm guessing that you passed me just before the Keyhole and probably saw me again at the summit. Yes, I agree, if not for the need to high-tail down to the treeline, it would have been a perfect day. Maybe I'll go back to hike Lady Washington sometime so that I can retain a more positive memory of the descent.
SaraMiller	Great Report for the less experienced 12/30/2013 12:46pm This is my plan fr next year. Your report helped me to understand how to prepare.
+101RouteHog+	I can do this! 7/21/2014 10:55am Maybe. It's on Tuesday! Thanks.
bdloftin77	Congratulations! 10/26/2014 3:39pm Good job on the report and advice, too. Longs was my first class 3 as well, and my 4th 14er. I took the Loft Route up (which was amazing!), and the Keyhole Route down. Longs is among my favorite 14ers. The most recent 14er I've had the ”Piece of Cake” thought toward was, ironically, Capitol Peak. Only for a brief moment at the summit.. I forced myself to snap out of it, as descending, like you said, is often much more tricky than ascending. But there you go, even more difficult mountains are doable! (with experience, good decisions, and such)

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