Peak(s):  Tijeras Pk  -  13,604 feet
Milwaukee Pass - 13300
Date Posted:  08/15/2013
Modified:  06/29/2014
Date Climbed:   08/15/2013
Author:  Kent McLemore
 Sangre Saunter  

This was my second venture over Music Pass into Sand Lakes Basin, the first years ago when Tijeras rebuffed my late season effort. This time, with my daughter, son, and fellow Arkansan Mark L. in tow, and stable weather above, I enjoyed a fun scramble leading to sweeping views of the Sangres. There have been some excellent recent TR's covering this fine peak, so find here an abbreviated report with a few photos that may be of help to those considering the climb. Next my daughter and I hiked up to Milwaukee Pass where we admired the peak's exposed crux and stunning views of Broken Hand, the Crestones, Cottonwood drainage, Pico Aislado, Marble Mountain, Humboldt Peak, Music Pass and on and and on and on...


Tijeras Peak


Image
Tijeras above Lower Sand Creek Lake


We left the north shore of Lower Sand Creek Lake and hiked NNW to the lower slope of Music's East Ridge which we paralleled until well up the basin. There we turned south and found easy willow-free going across the basin to the Tijeras-Music cliff band. I've been in both ramps. The "left" ramp is lower in the basin, easier to locate, shorter, steeper, and the approach more guarded with willows. The "right" gully is further west up the basin than one might think, approx. a half mile along the cliff band from the lower ramp, and can be difficult to see in certain light. It is longer, less steep, looser than the "left" ramp and might be more properly called a gully. We opted to ascend and descend the "right" ramp. From the top of the ramp we hiked west up gentle grassy slopes to the Tijeras-Music saddle then followed the ridge proper to the summit. A small notch near the summit can be easily skirted to climber's right.
Image
In this shot the "left" ramp is directly below the summit. The main ramp is out of frame to the right.


Image
Main access ramp.


Image
From the base of the main ramp along the cliff band to Music Mountain.


Image
Scooting up the main ramp.


Image


Image
Fun scrambling near the summit.


Image
Summit view south with the Blanca Group in the distance.


Image
North to Muisc, Milwaukee, the Crestones. And a hero.


Image
Above acccess ramp: Lower Sand Creek Lake and Music Pass.



Milwaukee Pass



On day two, my daughter and I hiked to Milwaukee Pass via the Cottonwood Pass Trail which we picked up below Upper Sand Creek Lake. The route led us into the beautiful basin below Milwaukee and Unnamed 13,161'. From the sweeping Milwaukee-13,161' saddle which overlooks South Colony, the trail to Milwaukee pass is strong and well-maintained. (recent work of the CMC?) This is an enjoyable day hike from either of the Sand Creek Lakes. The views from the ridge to Milwaukee Pass are spectacular: Broken Hand Peak and Crestone Needle on full display. Milwaukee Pass itself puts one right close to the crux ledges and just 150' below the peak's summit. The Cottonwood drainage and Milwaukee-Pico Aislado connecting ridge are also in plain view from the pass. A sweet spot indeed.
Image


Image
Arching ledges and roofs below Milwaukee's Northeast Face.


Image


Image
Aim for the saddle, turn left.


Image
From the saddle - Broken Hand Peak and Crestone Needle.


Image
From the saddle back toward to Sand Creek Lakes and Music Pass.


Image
Broken Hand Peak


Image
Looking back into the Sand Lakes area with Marble and Music Pass beyond.


Image
Looking up to the pass and Milwaukee's summit (l) and exposed ledge pitch.


Image


Image
The connecting ridge to Pico Aislado.


Image
West into the Cottnwood drainage.


Image
Hannah waiting on the ridge below.


Image
From Milwaukee Pass to Music Pass.


Image


Image
Back down into the basin.


Image
Team Arkansas.



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27


 Comments or Questions
SolarAlex

great photos
08/20/2013 16:54
Really awesome pictures! I have seen these peaks in the coopers scrambles book but your pictures put them near the top of my list


wooderson

love the photos...
08/20/2013 21:59
Your photos really capture the unique texture of the peaks in that area, especially Broken Hand pk. Sand Lakes is a very special place.

Looks like you had a wonderful family outing. Nice work on Tijeras and thanks for posting.


RyanSchilling

Great pics!
08/20/2013 23:37
You captured the area well. Good to know about the upgraded trail, too!


Kent McLemore

Thanks!
08/31/2013 12:45
Glad you enjoyed the photos.
We had the whole basin to ourselves for nearly three days. Both lakes make for great bases from which to explore the surrounding peaks.



   Using your forum id/password. Not registered? Click Here


Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.




© 2020 14ers.com®, 14ers Inc.