Split Mountain, 14,058', California
5/18-19/2013
St. Jean Couloir via Red Lake TH
~11mi RT/8K'
Last Chance Range HP, "Chance Pk," NV (4,985')
5/20/2013
East approach from Pahrump to a notch S of the summit
~5mi RT, 2.2K'
Partners: General Boggs (Michael Davis), The Noob (Abe Rigeb), Kylie Hockenberry (Kylie Hockenberry)
I guess you could say nothing went "right" this trip. That's okay; it was still fun.
The Master Plan (optimized for your personal headache):
Fly in Friday night; rent a 4wd; drive to Lone Pine; dirtbag overnight in the familiar Alabama Hills; buy food; take the shortcut to the Red Lakes TH; hike to Red Lake; quick stroll up Tinnemaha; sleep until 3:00AM; climb Split's East couloir; descend North Slopes; pack and descend to car; drive to Mahogany Flats Campground; hike Telescope and pals Monday; afternoon flight back to Denver. No showers. None.
The deviations:
-Our luxurious 4wd was a Hyundai Tucson. Don''t know what that is? Well, it's basically a gutted Hot Wheels with a lawn-mower engine. Maybe not as cool.
-The (incorrect) Red Lakes approach is a painful bushwack initially. Unless one has a GPS track. And that GPS track is rendered moot once a local suggests the wrong trail at the start.
-We ran out of time on Tinnemaha and didn't bring headlamps for the "quick little stroll." It was scrambly. We stopped a painful 100' short. Nice views at least.
-The East Couloir was out. By "out," I mean for us. We're noobs. It's a sad year for the Sierra snowpack. The route required soloing 30' of thin, sketchy, unprotectable WI3+ to a ledge. This was followed by a second thin ice pitch that made the first look like the autobahn. The belay for the second pitch was constantly peppered by rock buzzers. Above that looked golden.
-Mahogany Flats requires a 4WD. We had a Hyundai Tucson. Still don't know what that is? I once lit a lightbulb using a potato as an elementary school project. That potato is more useful than a Tucson.
-I ate something bad and slightly messed myself on Chance. True story. I am not a proud man.
-Flight/airline issues. Enough said.
-Surprisingly, the short cut to the Red Lake TH did not go wrong. The Tucson made it. Perhaps a few scrapes, tire-burning, and rock-throwing
Initially, as is a weekly expectation, Boggy sends out an email with a Plan. His annual pilgrimage to the Sierra 14ers. Kylie's first trip. Abe's and my second trip. We're in. Tickets bought; yet another flight to Vegas and yet another moonlit drive across Death Valley. We make it and throw out the sleeping bags. I don't remember that part. I must've fallen asleep during the drive. I probably shouldn't have drove.
Morning brings a quick visit with a confused park ranger ("What's Split Mountain?"), Subway, and the TH drive, which Boggy directs magnificently. Our objective is in view:
We meet Tully at the TH awakening to his 3rd Split Mtn attempt. He sends us on the lower approach. We promptly miss the sharp right turn heading high up the slope to a solid trail. Bushwack ensues.
We eventually find the trail and scrape our way up to Red Lake. The moment is spoiled by the afternoon sun.
We drop bivys and talus hop up Tinnemaha's W. slope/ridge. We lose time dishearteningly scoping out Split's couloirs and must turn back in the name of caution and loftier, dream-filled goals.
The next morning, we promptly ignore a few alarms and drag ourselves to a 4:50 start, knowing the backup plan is in effect.
And up we go.
We slog to the summit and enjoy the views.
The North Slopes route allows for a decent glissade, followed by a talus hop back to camp. Tully Attempt #3 did not go so well and he's already out.
The drive out goes somewhat smoothly. Considering our lack of confidence in the mighty Tucson after almost hopelessly miring it on a piece of gum stuck to the tire, we ditch Telescope plans. We gorge at the Lone Pine Mexican place, discuss climbing options with an enthusiastic (lonely?) Elevation employee, and start driving. Our drive lacks the benefit of a plan, however.
Abe and I want to check out Red Rocks. We have two cams, two nuts, three draws, and 4 ice screws. Game on. Boggy subtly points out every single peak on the drive towards Vegas. Perhaps there are better options than Red Rocks.
We pass out in the middle of nowhere on Nowhere Road. Morning comes and we continue towards Red Rocks. The peak admiration continues from the backseat. Turning the corner into Pahrump, a peak on left finally catches Abe's and my eyes. We relent. The peak is gorgeous - scrambly, prominent, and guaranteed views. So we decide to climb the peak behind it.
We park as close as we can on Carrol St. in Pahrump east of the peak. Our parking spot is on private land, but it isn't signed. Our odds of the land owner being an abusive, violent meth addict are a promising 60%. Luckily, it's only a Tucson.
Up a canyon we go, with a vague notion of heading towards a notch south of the summit. Class 2+, but scrambling options on sharp limestone abound.
The notch comes shortly enough and the summit ridge goes.
And the summit.
The land owner meets us back at our car. Oddly enough, he's perfectly normal. Turns out, this land and the range have quite a history. Indians, caves, lost gold, murder, and all. A good ol' fashioned Western story.
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