5/28/2022 Route: East Ridge Posted On: 5/29/2022, By: kyrawhitworth Info: Insanely dry from the east ridge and west ridge on Quail. No traction needed as only very small spots of snow to deal with on the route. Had a nice glissade down from Hope before heading to Quail. |
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5/28/2022 Route: Hopeful Couloir Posted On: 5/28/2022, By: rivrrapids Info: Couloir is good. Some cornices present to climber's right to watch out for. |
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4/30/2022 Route: hopeful couloir Posted On: 5/1/2022, By: cottonmountaineering Info: route is nicely filled in and was a fun ski, no snow for about a mile, then patchy, then consistent snow past the CT junction. the main branch has a bit of a cornice at the top, you can enter on either side, or take the left branch which has no cornice |
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12/4/2021 Route: East Ridge Posted On: 12/4/2021, By: Carl_Healy Info: Beautiful day! Temps in 30s and 40s and wind no worse than 10 mph (15mph a few times). Entire route essentially summer conditions. Whatever snow there is is avoidable or not a problem. No gators or traction used, and definitely no flotation. This is a copy of the Quail report, which is just as applicable. |
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8/3/2021 Route: East Ridge Posted On: 8/3/2021, By: GordoByrn Info: Campsite at 11.2k above Sheep Gulch. As Bill notes, better to stay left/North from the pass. I didn't but a laid back chimney got me back on track. Gully sucked, as promised. Skipped it on way down with a CCW loop, which didn't suck. More details and captioned pics in my Strava. https://www.strava.com/activities/5732670418 |
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6/18/2021 Route: Southeast Ridge Posted On: 6/18/2021, By: brauda02 Info: Planned on the East Ridge and descent of the Northeast Ridge, but realized I didn't have enough water when I got back to the Pass after Quail. I ran down the south side of the pass to the first stream at 11,200. I only had a picture of the map from the GR book for the SE ridge but went for it anyway. I ended up making a few class 3 moves to gain the ridge. This route is very steep. I descended the NE ridge as planned. This route has a lot of talus and is slow going. The only cairn I saw marked the correct slope to descend back to the lake. Snow not an issue on either route. |
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6/12/2021 Route: East Ridge Posted On: 6/14/2021, By: maxavanzi Info: Summer conditions, no snow on trail. |
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6/9/2021 Route: East Ridge Posted On: 6/10/2021, By: Ptglhs Info: Not much to add by way of the conditions. I will note that there are a couple of different routes. Staying on the ridge proper is definitely more of a scramble. Dropping into one of the gullies is a lot looser. I went up the Ridge and down one of the gullies. There is the occasional Cairn or route segment to follow. Very minimal postholing. At a choke point along the ridge about 13.7, and then again when crossing the snow field before you get to the false Summit. Seconding the previous report to avoid the cornice. An ice axe would have been useless, I brought, but did not use, traction. |
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6/5/2021 Route: East Ridge Posted On: 6/6/2021, By: durkan Info: Small snowfields above treeline, but no issue. Stay on trail and commit to the postholes and existing steps. Soft in the late morning, but eok enough to plunge step and a short glissade or two. Above the pass along the ridge: maybe 3 snowfields to traverse. In the early morning, I was able to make good enough steps for ascending, but somewhat soft coming down. Definitely be cognizant of the cornice near the top on hiker's right. Gave it a wider berth to hiker's left on the ascent while also avoiding steeper snow. Dog and I started at 05:45, back at car by 10:45 MDT. With an early enough start, traction didn't feel needed. |
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6/1/2021 Route: Hopeful Posted On: 6/1/2021, By: Tim A Info: Hopeful is still in. Negligible snow from Sheep's Gulch to Hope Pass. Snow in the cirque below Hopeful was still solid at 7am this morning, but the couloir itself was hip-deep postholing by 730 so we bailed to Quail, which is possible without any gear. Leave the snowshoes at home. |
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5/30/2021 Route: Hopeful Couloir Posted On: 5/30/2021, By: gluckhikes Info: Just a couple patches of snow on the climb from Sheep Gulch to Hope Pass. I switched to crampons on the other side of the pass, where after dropping a couple hundred feet it's snow covered over to the couloir. Started the climb around 5am and had great crunchy snow the whole way. Dramatic clouds all around kept the direct sunlight away until near the top out. Downclimbed some soft snow off the summit ridge before taking off crampons for the rest of the east ridge descent, which was mostly dry. Stitched together a couple glissades from the Pass for about 1000' before rejoining the dry trail. |
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5/23/2021 Route: East Ridge Posted On: 5/24/2021, By: toeknife Info: Other than a couple snow fields above treeline, trail is entirely dry until just under the saddle between quail and hope. Ridgeline to hope still has plenty of coverage. Quail looked pretty dry from our view. |
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5/8/2021 Route: Hopeful Couloir Posted On: 5/8/2021, By: Aphelion Info: Hopeful couloir is in good shape if you get a decent freeze. Get it while it's early, we topped out at 0830 and were already seeing rockfall. Trail up from Sheep gulch is mostly dry for the lower half, still mostly snow-covered for the upper half. The top is corniced, but didn't look too threatening. |
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5/7/2021 Route: Hopeful via Sheep Gulch Posted On: 5/10/2021, By: JDroz Info: Passable snow ATL, patches of rotted snow down to ~11.1k. Hopeful is in. Good amount of wet slide debris running out of comparable terrain lower along E Ridge. Cornice west of entrance is getting saturated and droopy; be wary. Hit it early (started @ 6, dropped @ 9:20, and the window was closing). |
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4/9/2021 Route: East Ridge Posted On: 4/9/2021, By: Gueza Info: Great coverage from Sheep Gulch after the first 800ft. Hopeful Couloir is very much in |
