Unnamed 13654

Route: Ridge from 13,577
Posted On: 5/12/2025, By: Lubellski
Info: See conditions report for California. 

Route: Zapata-Cali-13,577
Posted On: 11/22/2023, By: Will_E
Info: Nearly summer conditions, just a little snow here and there, primarily above treeline. Nice day. 

Route: Lily Lake
Posted On: 7/19/2023, By: JasonKline
Info: We did the 13577->13660 A->13656 loop from Lily Lake. There were summer conditions, with no snow or ice. Ascending 13577 via the south side from Lily Lake involved loose talus and wasn't terribly fun. The descent from the 13660 A/13656 saddle to Lily Lake started with a loose scree/rock descent down a roughly 45 degree slope for around 900 vertical feet, followed by a talus walk to the lake. While on the summit of 13636, we met somebody who ascended from the west side via Zapata Falls. His route sounded much more pleasant, so you might want to consider that path instead of Lily Lake. 

Route: Southwest Face
Posted On: 5/5/2023, By: supranihilest
Info: This CR is for 13,656, which is the new LiDAR summit for 13,660 A. The first 2.3 miles of the Zapata Trail are dry, then patchy snow to 2.9 miles, then pretty much continuous snow beyond. Once it made sense I just followed the snowy creek bed. Snow was supportive in the morning and I wore trail runners to 12,600 feet. I continued past the lakes and chose a random snowy gully on the southwest face since my original plan - the northwest couloir - was surprisingly dry. Snow started at aforementioned 12,600-foot elevation and was icy hard styrofoam in the morning. Crampons mandatory. I used two axes since I wasn't sure what I was going to get and was happy with that decision. I was delighted to squeeze 900 feet of snow climbing out of what looked like it wasn't even half that. At the top of the gully I took off my crampons thinking it'd be an easy, dry ridge walk, because that's what it looked like. Bad choice. I got about 500 horizontal feet from the summit and the ridge turned into a doubly exposed snow knife edge. I down climbed a bit on the west side and then made a delicate, exposed, traversing Class 3/4 snow climb/scramble with one axe and no traction zig zagging up the west face. Rock was generally solid and snow generally good for kicking steps but it was slow and painstaking work. I basically followed snow-covered ledge systems back to the ridge just before the summit and then scrambled the final bit along the crest. I returned along my route being very careful on the down scrambling and then put my crampons back on for the gully, which went by very quickly. Once back in the relative flats I wore my snowshoes (for the first time) back to where things start drying out about halfway down the trail. There was some annoying postholing with my snowshoes on but a slightly earlier start probably would have helped. 

Route: Zapata falls, via California
Posted On: 5/16/2022, By: lkk8815
Info: Dry. Started at Zapata Falls, went up California west slope, followed ridge to 13577 then 13660A. To get down, continued along the ridge to the next saddle with an unranked bump then dropped into the north fork of Zapata creek drainage. The NW side of 13660's ridge isn't really any more difficult or exposed than 13660's east ridge (class 3ish). And the steep drop into the basin is better than it looks from far away. Saw a trail on the AllTrails map leading from the lake back to the main trail - that was a lie. It's sort of there in places, lost it in the talus fields and in the trees. It was fine, just slow and not the easy cruise I was expecting. Also got to witness the graveyard of an exploded plane from 1965 - must be hundreds of pieces all over up there. I found it kind of spooky… 

Route: West ridge from zapata falls
Posted On: 2/19/2022, By: -wren-
Info: Zero need for flotation, some will want crampons or spikes, definitely reccomend an axe. Super fun scramble that I was not expecting! Didn't do a ton of research and assumed from maps that the ridge would be mostly class 2. There's actually a ton of really fun, solid class 3 sections, starting well below treeline. Approach trail is a mix of dry ground, ice and packed snow. Once leaving the trail, there's 6-8 inches of intermittent, mostly unconsolidated snow to treeline. Above treeline, it's super varied but the gist is mostly dry rock up to around 13k and then a decent bit of snow. Generally, the snow is not very supportive and there's 6-18 inches. It's often avoidable. The traverse from the false summit to the true summit had the most snow, hardest moves, and most exposure. The crux today was thanks to a sketchy snow crossing I didn't want to put weight on, so I poked around and cleared snow until there was enough exposed rock to make the 3 or 4 quite exposed and tricky moves. Still probably just C3. Pics later 

Route: Lily Lake
Posted On: 11/14/2021, By: angry
Info: Descended gully between saddle with 13,577. Summer conditions. 

Route: From Point 13,577
Posted On: 5/15/2021, By: supranihilest
Info: Lots of loose rock from 13,577 to the saddle. Some snow on both descent and ascent. The scrambling at the summit is mostly Class 2+ with perhaps some Class 3. Exposure is moderate. Rock is generally good. Snow was not a concern. I reversed my route back to the saddle with 13,577 then skirted it, which sucked. 13,577's slopes are extremely loose. I don't know if it saved time or effort vs just resummitting. No snow gear needed whatsoever. 

Route: Ridge from UN 13577
Posted On: 9/6/2020, By: MC.Ikema
Info: Reiterating that the ridge from UN 13577 seemed Class 2+/Class 3. Roach's book labels this ridge Class 2, but I didn't see it. I also didn't investigate or stray far from the ridge proper. I was in a hurry to ascend and GTFO after a puffy cloud started giving me the googly eyes. 

Route: from california
Posted On: 8/15/2020, By: Trotter
Info: Fairly tedious ridge from California, but goes at class 2+/3 Needs a summit register 

Route: From 13577
Posted On: 5/17/2020, By: IHikeLikeAGirl
Info: Did 13577-13660-California, descending off CA north ridge, with bushwack back to Lily Lake trail on Saturday. Brought microspikes, crampons, ice axe, gaiters. Used microspikes and gaiters. Lily Lake trail was dry to very wet, near the start, then spotty snow, then significant/continuous snow ~1 mi prior to Lily Lake (about 11k?). Lost the trail several times. Snow was hard in the morning, with an occasional post hole, we were glad to have gaiters. Short snow fields past Lily Lake. Was hoping for a line of snow to ascend the loose talus/scree, but the only one we saw, seemed to lead to unknown, cliffy, terrain. Once on the ridge, the route to 13577-13660-California, was 99.9% dry, including the bypass of 13577. Avoidable snowfields off California's north ridge. A long cornice blocked the usual descent off the ridge. Some thin spots in the cornice could be melted out very soon. We down climbed a rock outcropping (class 2+, ~10 ft), to bypass the cornice and get off the ridge. A very long snowfield below the ridge would make for a fun glissade or just a nice descent option, if conditions are right, but the snow had warmed up too much in the afternoon. Some deep snow in the trees (higher up) and we weaved a lot to minimize the post-holing. Trees aren't too thick and very little dead fall. Thanks for letting me tag along Darin, had a great time! :) pic #1 - At Lily Lake, showing snow fields. pic #2 - Ridge between 13577-13660, crux is dry, tiny snowfield at a small saddle, not a concern pic #3 - Ridge between 13577-CA pic #4 - Rock outcropping we down climbed to get through the cornice 

Route: East Ridge from Pt. 13577
Posted On: 3/25/2020, By: CaptainSuburbia
Info: Did not use traction. Ice axe was handy for crossing a short snow gully half way up. We named this peak "Little Ellie" and 13577 is now "Island Peak" 

Route: Lily lake
Posted On: 10/13/2019, By: cottonmountaineering
Info: Everything down here is dry, summer conditions 

Route: Zapata Falls
Posted On: 6/16/2018, By: JasonKline
Info: Summer conditions. Ice axe and microspikes unnecessary.