9/10/2023 Route: 5.8 R Posted On: 9/11/2023, By: climbingyogi Info: Wow, what a day. Backpacked Spanish Creek on Saturday, 9/9 after obtaining a Wilderness Access Permit from the Crestone Mountain Zen Center. Trail is to be expected - as in, expect to get lost multiple times and enjoy some bushwacking and dead tree maneuvering, in addition to a good amount of elevation gain (~4000 ft) with a 35-40 lb pack full of climbing gear. Most amazing camp spot below The Prow. Pictures do not do it justice. Left camp at 6:25am on Sunday, 9/10. Got to the base of the first pitch at 7:25am. Climbed in 4 pitches with a lot of simul climbing at the end. I underestimated the 5.8 crux pitch - definitely a little reachy to find the good holds to get over it at under 5'7" myself, but it was doable. Helps if you're a seasoned sport climber I'd assume. Took the additional 'extra credit' 5.6 pitch to the summit of KC from the Avenue - I highly recommend it. The loosest rock on this entire route was found at the very end of this pitch though, so be careful. Especially if there's hikers on the Avenue below you. Summitted Kit Carson Peak at 11:30am. Descended the class 3 gully on the standard route of KC to meet back up with the Avenue, then traversed skier's left to the south couloir/gully. Descended that the rest of the way back to Spanish Creek and it was slightly heinous at times (very loose rock, steep at parts). I feel like very few people discuss the descent in their trip reports - no, it's not 'a big deal' compared to the ascent route up The Prow, but it should also be descended very carefully. Seemed the steepest and loosest rock was at the very top when you intersect it from the Avenue. Absolutely beautiful day out there - could not have asked for better weather. We were definitely nervous attempting this climb on a day that called for 70% of snow/rain at 4pm, but we planned to move as fast and efficient as possible (while remaining safety-conscious) to get back to the tent by 2pm. Got to the tent at exactly 1:43pm. Left campsite at 2:35pm and were back to the car at 6:01pm. Started raining shortly after getting back to the car and leaving the mysterious town of Crestone. Trip report to come soon after I've had some time to rest and recover. |
