Unnamed 13022

Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 9/23/2024, By: k_fergie
Info: It snowed a few inches, adding a bit to the spice factor. The ice probably held the rock together and lowered the choss factor. I climbed it from the east ridge (Furthermore's TR) rather than the west ridge others have generally reported. I found this easier than what has been described to me and I've seen in TRs, so I figured I'd throw out my experience into the ether. I stayed 100% ridge direct and only had a ~20ft wall of class 4 to deal with, and it was right after leaving the saddle with the neighboring 12er. After that, all class 3, heavy exposure, not that I could really see the ground. 

Route: From CDT/Window Peak saddle
Posted On: 6/3/2024, By: HikerGuy
Info: Not sure what is the correct way to climb this one, but I made it up and down comfortably. It is stiff Class 3 (maybe 4). Unfortunately I neglected to read up on this peak and I was unsure if the entire north ridge goes. So I ended up traversing below the southwest side of the spine losing a bit of elevation (~150ft) until I found a weakness to ascend. The summit is quite amazing. I retraced my steps back to the weakness; however, it quickly became tedious past this point and I decided to bail down a sun-softened snow slope on the northeast face. From there I made my way back to the CDT pass and ascended Window Peak, then Fools Pyramid and 13,274. 12.1 miles, 3,957 feet and 5h52m from Thirty Mile campground to 13,022's summit. 

Route: CDT/Window pass
Posted On: 7/10/2023, By: VeraUndertow
Info: Did the RGP group from 13017-13261 as a day hike from Thirty mile campground Sunday. Set out around 2:50 AM with a perfect bluebird forecast and fresh legs. The Weminuche trail is easy to follow in the dark thankfully so it was easy going till I reached the Rincon La Vaca trail, which while marked by a log, the log snapped and it just says Trail on what's left which is not that helpful at 4:30 am. Luckily it was easy to tell I was going the wrong way when the next sign post said *something pine trl*(I forgot exactly the name) I doubled back the 30 steps to Rincon La Vaca. This trail is mostly fine though there is a part of it that is fully submerged in 3 inches of water with swampy ground all around. The sign marking the CDT is obvious and all the deadfall that plagued this area of the CDT has been cut and cleared so moving was fast as I finally gained significant elevation for the first time in the day already 7+ miles in as the sun rose. The lake around 12k east of Window peak is thawed and holding lots of water so I filtered water for the rest of my peak climbing not knowing when I'd get to water again until the way down. The only snow crossing was right as I gained the pass between 13017 and The Window but it was mellow enough that even at 7 am after a good freeze I felt confident crossing in just trail runners. I climbed up and over the first ridge bump which was loose choss on the north west side and slabby Class 3 for a few feet to get onto the ridge on the other side. From here I stayed on the north side (left) of the ridge following an obvious shelf that was not more difficult than C3 but was loose. There was one small snow crossing to contend with mid way but I had good hand holds so didn't feel the need for spikes tho they could help for a few more days. Past this there is a C4+ chimney with an orange on gray hue that Natalie (SnowAlien) describes in her TR of this peak but I found if you drop a few feet you can climb over that rib and continue following the exposed and loose C3 shelf up on the north side up to the ridge around 200 feet closer to the summit. Once you gain the ridge you will then have to drop onto the south (right) side of the ridge for the final class 3 (loose) chimney to the summit. I didn't think anything was harder than class 3 on this route but I do think it was all a pile of sh!t and everything moved so climb careful and test everything. I reversed my route exactly, until the first fin from the ridge, which I bypassed on the north side in the now soft snow field just under the rocks. Summited at 8 am and I think total mileage back to the saddle with the Window was around 12 miles. The Window is snow free and a pretty chill walk up after 13017. Total mileage on the day was 28.3 and vert around 6,750 

Route: North Ridge via Weminuche Trail and CDT
Posted On: 6/5/2022, By: supranihilest
Info: The trail approach from Thirty Mile Campground is lengthy, something like 11 miles just to reach this peak one way (Weminuche trail -> Rincon La Vaca connector trail -> CDT). The approach is all dry and there's plenty of downed trees on the CDT portion of it. Scrambling the entire north ridge isn't necessary, we went up a loose rib a bit south of the large saddle on the fin, then up a snow-filled chimney to the ridge crest. The ridge here is only a single rock wide and doubly exposed, so crawling or straddling was necessary. It quickly widens but nothing is to be trusted, every rock is loose. We traversed on the ridge crest until we reached a large blade that stood out on the ridge, blocking easy access, then dropped left/east down about 10 feet on crumbling rock to a dirt ledge, traversed the dirt ledge for a ways and scrambled back to the ridge crest about 50 feet prior to the summit. All rock is suspect, the ridge is exposed, and the scrambling sustained Class 3 with some Class 4 thrown in. No real snow to deal with except some avoidable patches gaining the ridge from the trail/boulderfield below the peak. 

Route: Thirty Mile Trailhead
Posted On: 6/28/2020, By: JasonKline
Info: Very little remaining snow, and it was completely avoidable. Plenty of downed trees on the Weiminuche Trail.