8/30/2023 Route: South Face Direct Posted On: 9/1/2023, By: blazintoes Info: Swapped leads on Boggy and Kylies route here: https://www.mountainproject.com/index.php/route/117788553/south-face-direct Was able to chat with Boggy from the summit about his route, anchor conditions and length of each pitch. We still need to compare notes. The hike up the drainage has interesting geology and is steep. The scramble to the base is non trivial. The climb is like sticking your hands in granolas. I like choss. The first pitch is easy but ended sooner than prescribed. There is an anchor slung around a stuck boulder in good condition. The second pitch was longer than prescribed and we had to build a gear anchor. We had twin 35m ropes. I continued and this section was tricky, loose and slabby but had good gear. The 3rd pitch was a fun off width but I could fit inside. The final pitch was also super fun with great movement over a chockstone. The final scramble to the summit was loose here and there but expected. We could see people on the proper Eolus and awesome views of New York creek Pks 15, 16, Little Finger (says hi Boggy) Turret, Pigeon top Animas and Monitor. Fantastic weather and great teamwork. We discarded the ratty summit anchor and rebuilt a new one in a protective cubby with a great crack. We rappelled P3 and slung a large boulder to steer clear of loose rock and debris then rapped once more to the base. Overall this was a very fun climb and a big shoutout to Boggy and Kylie for putting this up. Well done! Thank you. |
