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San Miguel Peak

Peak Condition Updates  
6/25/2024
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 6/30/2024, By: arthurtect
Info: Hope to do a trip report on this one day, but wanted to emphasize how awesome the southeast route was! Entered the upper bowl to find grass slopes and a little snow to the base of the southeast ridge, and from there it was the best sort of class 2/3 bouldering one could ever ask for. I would climb this mountain over and over after experiencing how much fun that southeast ridge was. Avoided all the horrific talus and scree that most every other post and trip report talks about! 
5/16/2022
Route: East Couloir
Posted On: 5/16/2022, By: desertdog
Info: We hiked up the Hope Lake Trail. We then went on the east side of the mountain and took a couloir that dropped us right at the notch on the summit ridge. The ridge was dry and loose. It also looked like the couloir on the NW side could be climbed. The snow was a sufferfest on the way down. Even with snow shoes we post holed, sometimes up to our thighs. We finally gave up on snow shoes and just trudged through the snow. Honestly I would wait on this one until we get a freeze or summer conditions. 
2
5/9/2021
Route: from lake Hope
Posted On: 5/9/2021, By: SnowAlien
Info: San Juans are melting fast, but that area still has some snow. The road to Hope lake TH is blocked by snow drifts about 2 miles away. Continuous snow about a mile below summer TH. Skinned up to Hope lake and from there to just below the summit. An easy scramble to get to the summit. Very quick exit on skis ~2 hrs 
9 1
10/22/2020
Route: NE up, SE down
Posted On: 10/23/2020, By: tjf242424
Info: As many others have suggested, SE ridge is the preferred route. I ended up a bit high on the approach and dropping back down for the SE ridge seemed like too much trouble. The NE ridge had some snow on the north side and the downclimb to the notch is terrible. The road to the TH is fine for any SUV/crossover. 
8/23/2020
Route: NE ridge up, SE ridge down
Posted On: 8/23/2020, By: Bombay2Boulder
Info: I will like to point out that the NE ridge is totally an unnecessary "standard" route up this peak as there are plenty of trip reports about people taking this route. The SE ridge is stable and a very easy class-2 hike. I took the NE ridge on the way up and the notch downclimb from the false summit and stuck to ridge proper which was not the best option as it was scrambling on very questionable boulders. From the summit, I saw the SE ridge, had cell service so looked up some trip reports on this website and confirmed that it go and took that on the way down. Saw one other person who was going up this ridge. I wished I had read d_baker's trip report about this peak before. 
3
8/1/2020
Route: From Lake Hope
Posted On: 8/2/2020, By: supranihilest
Info: The trail to the lake is perfect with exception of the crowds. We left the trail a bit before the lake and went around the lake's north side before going up San Miguel's east side. The heinous scree and talus we were expected never showed up. We found mostly grass and stable boulders to the summit ridge, then a bit of scrambling (Class 2+-Easy Class 3) to the big notch before the summit. We down climbed somewhere between 50-100 feet north on extremely loose rock and dirt then walked into the notch and scrambled up the other side. The notch can be tackled head on or there's a Class 2+ ramp and ledge system that leads to a short Class 3 section on pretty decent rock. The summit is a short stroll away. If San Miguel is your only peak for the day descend your ascent route. We went on to "Lake Point". The down climb to the saddle is mostly Class 2+ but on exceptionally loose rock that gets looser the closer you get to the saddle. It's not difficult but you should space yourself from other climbers and always pay attention to your hand and footholds. I recommend a helmet for this peak given how loose parts of it are. 
6/28/2020
Route: west ridge, hope lake
Posted On: 7/5/2020, By: cottonmountaineering
Info: Some snow still on route, microspikes are useful to get up into the upper basin. Upper mountain/ridge is dry 
9/12/2018
Route: Standard
Posted On: 9/12/2018, By: illusion7il
Info: San Miguel and Rolling were both in great shape. Couldnt figure out which summit is higher on San Miguel so I tagged both of them. The ridge to rolling summit is never ending. Allow plenty of extra time. No summit register on either. 
7/1/2017
Route: Lake Hope
Posted On: 7/4/2017, By: BobbyFinn
Info: Snowy 
9/11/2014
Route: East Slopes and Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/13/2014, By: TravelingMatt
Info: I ascended San Miguel from Lake Hope via the eastern slopes, and eventually over the western summit, and descended via the southeast ridge. I recommend the southeast ridge in both directions. Both require scrambling, but the SE ridge is much more solid, with larger boulders that generally don‘t move. On the eastern slopes route, getting up and over the western summit is a nightmare of janky, borderline 4th-class crap. If this still sounds fun, from the western summit look for a narrow route down to your right (north), then swing over to the left (south) side of the eastern summit for the final, easier third-class climb.