US Grant Peak

Route: V4-Grant-V2 from Island Lake
Posted On: 7/5/2024, By: cloudkicker
Info: Full summer conditions. Not new info for these three by any means but thought I would reaffirm the descent off Grant to Swampass is the worst part of the combo. Do your diligence and research the route before you go. A lot of sketchy terrain on that side of Grant. That said, this route was an absolute blast. 

Route: N couloir to E ridge
Posted On: 6/16/2024, By: Boggy B
Info: Approached via Swamp Canyon (new to me, and a real treat!) from Ophir. Road is still gated a short distance below the trailhead. Trail is dry all the way up to "Scenic Bench", and from there it's just about 1800' of climbing on snow to the summit ridge. The N couloir is easy and a touch shy of 700'. The top is also the top of the S couloir proper (also in great shape). The E ridge to summit holds a couple intimidating-looking but easy 3rd class obstacles (the first is immediate). Descended back down E ridge to Swamp Pass and out the canyon. Snow conditions were fantastic, bulletproof isothermal with minimal suncupping. 

Route: SW Ridge
Posted On: 9/18/2023, By: colin j
Info: Route to the V4-USG saddle had snow in the morning and was melted out by mid-day. Upper route holds more snow/ice that may not melt out this year. The crux crack held some ice and the ledge above had a dusting of snow with ice underneath; I would count on similar conditions the day after any afternoon storm. I did not think I could downclimb so I did not summit. 

Route: Climbed with V4 from Island Lake
Posted On: 9/4/2023, By: sarahmariekirk
Info: Climbed US Grant along with V4 today, starting from Island Lake; peak conditions for V4 will be posted separately. We backpacked into Ice Lakes so the approach this morning was short and a great warm-up. The gully you ascend between V4 and Grant looks worse than it is, the talus was decent and the scree slope up to the saddle goes quick. The initial portion of the climb up to Grant from the saddle is loose talus and scree, but very manageable and the trail is easy to follow. The crux was fun and short, and the ledges & final gully section definitely added a fun aspect to this peak. I loved the short ridgeline walk to the summit, and had fantastic views in every direction. 

Route: Union Couloir
Posted On: 5/29/2023, By: CheapCigarMan
Info: Thanks to Boggy B and FireOnTheMountain for the beta as I prepped. Thanks to the person that booted in before me. Providing me a solid trail through the woods. Though, when you missed your turn after the avy debris I followed it. A costly error of time and energy on my part. I parked at the switchback. Crossed the roaring waterfall. Intermittent snow until the avy debris. At about 10,700' the trail becomes solid and firm snow. No traction or flotation necessary. My intention was to camp at Upper Ice Lake Basin. Because of my earlier error I only made it to Lower Ice Lake Basin. Got there just as it turned dark. From camp to Island Lake I wore micro spikes as I crossed the snow slopes. At Union Couloir's apron I put on crampons. The first third was solid conditions. I've been on better but I've also been on worse. From there I got into fresh slides where it made for some difficulties in the soft snow. Postholing up to my waist at times. Fighting to get my legs (I'm 6' 3") up enough to get up and through it to find firmer conditions. There are two dog legs. About two thirds up is the first. Taking climbers left there is a daunting cornice. Looks about 20' - 30' tall. Then climbers right to gain the last of the couloir. As I topped out I was expecting a short ascent to the summit as is normally the case. Not this peak. From here there is about 20' of class 2+ rock to overcome. Then a ridge walk over to the false summit. As I found out when I got to the false bump. I realized the true and obviously higher bump, the true summit, required about a 30' Class 2+ / 3 down climb then another 30' or so ascent up steep snow on Ulysses summit face. Only used one ice axe the entire time. As the snow is soft in the steep sections having a second I don't think would have helped. On the final face I might have felt more secure had I had another. After the two dog legs on the descent I glissaded several hundred feet down the main bottom portion of the couloir. The snow remained firm from the apron all the way back to camp. Then next day the snow still remained firm. No traction or flotation needed. Thanks to the kind person that secured my tent and belongings after the days winds blew it from where I originally set up. 

Route: V4
Posted On: 7/10/2022, By: angry
Info: From V4, there's a trail that leads to the crux and then a short scramble up to the ledge and back around to summit ridge. Didn't do any research on this route beforehand and it was easy to figure out. 

Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 9/9/2021, By: supranihilest
Info: This CR starts from Pilot Knob. Descend Pilot Knob and round around the north side of the peak. Descend a horrible, awful, garbage slope of thin scree atop steep hardpan into Ice Lakes Basin, then find the trail to Island Lake. Take the trail past Island Lake and up talus and tundra to a steep scree slope below the US Grant/"V 4" saddle. From this saddle ascend a use trail up US Grant's south ridge. The trail is actually pretty easy despite being steep scree. A few hundred feet up the trail wraps to climber's right over a rib - remember this spot and go back over the rib on descent, since a secondary trail splits off here and descends into what looks like a death gully with a cliff at the bottom. The trail eventually ends at a pair of twin red/white towers. Pass between the towers, you're at the infamous Class 4 wall now. There's a gray streak on the bottom left side of the wall and this is where the easiest climbing is. I felt it was overblown and that it actually felt more like Class 3 on the way up. The rock is solid and the hardest moves are right at the bottom. Exposure is minimal. Atop the wall is an obvious ledge system. Take it to the right, it's mostly easy except one awkward, bulging move with exposure. Eventually it will wrap around to the east face and you'll see an obvious purple/gray gully covered in green lichen with a trail leading to it. Climb up this gully (Class 2+/Class 3) being mindful of the loose rock everywhere. Atop the gully it's a Class 2 stroll to the summit. Reverse your route back to the saddle with "V 4". The crux headwall is more difficult going down. Like Pilot Knob this is an outstanding scramble in an incredible area. 

Route: From Island Lake
Posted On: 10/14/2020, By: Bombay2Boulder
Info: Route is snow free. The San Juans (Telluride/Silverton) area did not get any snow from the last storm that hit the other ranges. Go all the way to the saddle and then follow the ridge to the peak. No summit register on this one. 

Route: S Ridge
Posted On: 9/16/2020, By: tjf242424
Info: Snow free and dry. We followed tundra as much as possible to the saddle between US Grant and V4. Straightforward routefinding and an easy crux. Photo shows the view towards Vermilion, which appears to still be quite snowy. 

Route: Island Lake to Grant-V2 Saddle
Posted On: 9/9/2020, By: fuzzysisneros
Info: Completely dry and beautiful weather. The trail up to Island Lake is well-trafficked and the trail to the saddle between US Grant and V2 is also well-traveled. From there, it is a fairly obvious route to the top. I think you can keep it Class 3 if you follow the cairns and route-find carefully. I made some (arguably) Class 4 moves but I was going straight to the summit. 

Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 7/29/2020, By: Flyingfish
Info: Ice Lakes area is essentially all snow free. Route is loose per usual but dry 

Route: South Mineral
Posted On: 10/26/2019, By: WildWanderer
Info: No snow in the areas that mattered. There's some snow on the trail below treeline and exciting scree and choss in the gullies making microspikes helpful but not mandatory to summit. 

Route: From V4/US Grant Saddle
Posted On: 8/19/2019, By: Shattuck311
Info: Summer conditions. Only snow crossing was right next to Island Lake. 

Route: From island lake
Posted On: 8/5/2019, By: cottonmountaineering
Info: No snow equipment needed, take the first trail instead of the second to avoid water crossings, hike around the right side of the lake instead of the left to avoid snow. Some snow in upper basin but it can be walked around, or on without traction/microspikes, it is only 15 or 20 degrees so not very steep. The "crux" is only like 10 feet tall so carrying a rope is probably overkill. 

Route: west ridge
Posted On: 7/31/2019, By: rachel
Info: Camped at Ice Lakes. Crossed the creek at 0600 and headed toward Island Lake. Bring sandals or Crocs for the crossing. Snow on the route to the V4/ US Grant saddle. Stashed crampons and ice axes at the saddle. Ascended the ridge (all dry). Used a rope for the summit block/ ledge section.