7/5/2024 Route: East Ridge Chimney Posted On: 7/7/2024, By: supranihilest Info: Fun scramble but dang this thing is a lot of work! From 11,600 feet in Ruby Basin the slopes to the upper basin are ludicrously steep, gaining 500-600 feet in a quarter mile. Things ease off above that. Climb into the upper basin and note the huge wall of cliffs lining the basin. There are several gullies through the cliffs below Animas (don't confuse them with the many gullies below Monitor), the uppermost one is the one you want. It's full of scree and boulders, and we scrambled up some Class 3 to avoid a wet slab. Above that we made an ascending travers to climber's right, then straight up towards the east ridge. The vast majority of the ascent from the upper basin is on Needles kitty litter and rather annoying, though not technically difficult. The ridge itself is too difficult to scramble so eventually we were forced into a gully that contains the Class 4 chimney that grants access to the summit. There's a couple of Class 4 moves in the chimney, one of which is a very high step (or maybe I'm just very short), then some Class 3 ledge work to the summit. We reversed the route down the chimney and traversed to Peak Thirteen, then went back down the gully into the upper basin. We did not scramble directly from Animas to Thirteen to Monitor. |
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9/16/2023 Route: Ruby Basin Posted On: 9/20/2023, By: dwoodward13 Info: A bit of snow in the morning although it was all dry by the next day. We missed the right hand turn out of the initial ascent gully to reach the broad gully but still were able to piece together a good route. Final chimney was harder than expected, glad to have partners to help spot each other. |
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9/8/2020 Route: Qbert blocks Posted On: 9/9/2020, By: Marmot72 Info: Route from Thirteen is straightforward and well cairned as you near the summit. Up higher, the cairns diverge: left goes for a class two finish, while right goes to a small steep face that looks difficult at first. After glancing right, the route becomes apparent: reach and haul yourself up to the top of one block, and then easily scramble up a series of blocks to reach the ridge just north of the summit. Best to descend the easier way. We packed out at 10 am and peaks were snow covered before we reached Purgatory a bit after 5 pm. |
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8/15/2020 Route: Ruby Basin Posted On: 8/16/2020, By: angry Info: Monitor, 13 and Animas are dry. Summit register is falling apart and could use new pen/paper. |
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6/25/2018 Route: Standard Posted On: 6/26/2018, By: illusion7il Info: Animas Monitor and 13 are completely dry. About 100+ trees down across the ruby creek trail but I'm guessing thats normal. Purgatory and Animas river trail just a few down trees. |
