6/1/2025 Route: South Face Posted On: 6/2/2025, By: Cereal Info: Ouray County opened the road to foot traffic on Sunday 6/1, so I parked at Senator Gulch, about four miles below the YBB "lower" bathroom. That bathroom was not open, and neither was the one at Virginius Mine (on the right, just past the Imogene Pass turnoff). https://m.facebook.com/OurayCountyRoadandBridge/ Technically, there was continuous snow from 12,000' to the summit block. I say it that way because above 13,000', there were three bottlenecks that were narrow enough that I ended up using the rocks to ascend and descend. Still, I think there was enough snow that this route would be still worth it for a couple more weeks. Between 12,000' and 12,500', I did posthole a bit in crampons, but I would not have bothered with snowshoes if I had brought them. Snow conditions on the ascent, from 12,500' to the summit block, were excellent, except for the three bottlenecks. The summit block was 100% dry. Sling looked to be in great shape (though I did not use it). The downclimb from 13,800' to 13,000' was very slow going, face-in with crampons, and navigating the aforementioned rock/bottlenecks. Great conditions for plunge stepping after that; I kept my crampons on until 11,700'. |
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9/27/2024 Route: Standard Posted On: 9/30/2024, By: terrysrunning Info: Summer conditions. The snow is only sticking on the north side and the route is on the south. I had to step in 2 spots of snow right after coming down from Coffeepot to traverse to Teakettle but they were inconsequential. |
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7/2/2024 Route: From Yankee Boy Posted On: 7/2/2024, By: daway8 Info: Took more or less the typical route up from Yankee Boy Basin, with occasional tweaks. Had been aiming to go straight for the ridge, hearing that the scree was not nearly as bad there but then found a very nice horizontal passage at 12,800 under a rock ledge that took me to a gully that was relatively low in misery. No snow on the route to Coffeepot and the chimney to the summit was dry and fun. Was quite comfortable without a rope. Route to Teakettle had 3 decent size snowfields left but all were easy to avoid with little to no deviation from the typical path. Out of an abundance of caution I put mountaineering boots, crampons, 2 ice axes, and microspikes in my pack but used none of that. Teakettle final pitch also dry and was one good foothold short of it being fairly easy to get up. Searched but couldn't find the one extra hold that would make it comfortable to climb both up and down. Finally resorted to an awkward backwards stem on the way up and an exotic variation of that maneuver on the way down. Route is in summer conditions. Coffeepot I wouldn't hesitate to repeat without a rope. Teakettle's descent would have been much less uncomfortable as a rapple. But I got er done. Took lots of photos so will eventually post a TR with my take on these two fun class 5 13ers, the second of which was once a Centennial. |
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8/9/2023 Route: Standard, w/ Coffeepot Posted On: 8/10/2023, By: bsiegs Info: Dry the whole way. Slog up the grass/scree slope isn't so bad, coming down was pretty miserable. Anchor on Teakettle is looking good. Anchor on Coffeepot is good, though the red webbing specifically is showing some light signs of wear. 30m rope was great for the TK rappel, but 5-10 ft too short for Coffeepot's rappel. However, it was still easily manageable to downclimb the last few feet. Posted a trip report with much more detail and photos. |
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6/19/2023 Route: South Face Posted On: 6/19/2023, By: supranihilest Info: Why climb Teakettle on horrific scree (ought to rename the peak to Screekettle imo) when you could do it on safe and extremely direct snow? Solid snow from the Yankee Boy Basin road (open only to the outhouse) all the way to the summit block. Hike approximately a quarter mile up the road until the trees open up, head straight up towards Teakettle's southwest ridge, then climber's right to the basin below Teakettle. Climb up the obvious couloir splitting the south face, which goes up to 40-45 degrees. Snow right now is variable, sometimes front points only, sometimes punchy. Still better than the scree you'd get dry. Either climb through the choke at the top of the couloir or go climber's right to the ridge crest then to the summit block. Summit block is guarded by a short, narrow, doubly exposed snow knife edge but otherwise it's a short, easy climb. We brought rope for the rappel. The rappel anchors are in good shape. |
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9/24/2022 Route: Bimetallist Mine to Potosi->Teakettle Posted On: 9/27/2022, By: dwoodward13 Info: Potosi from the Bimetallist Mine and over to Teakettle with descent of Teakettle's standard route. Fantastic route. Be careful right off the start as there is another 4x4 road we accidently took at left turning switch back in the first quarter mile that is more obvious that the straight path you want to take. This route was shockingly well cairned all the way to where it rolls over in Senator Gulch, and straightforward to the base of Potosi's summit cliffs. A little bit of tricky route finding as you traverse Potosi's cliff bands. Route over to Teakettle was pretty beat in. One in group freed the climb up and belayed the 2nd up. Anchors in good shape. Descent down Teakettle sucks per usual. Having done Teakettle twice, this way and the standard route up/down, I would **strongly** recommend this approach if you want to do both Teakettle and Potosi. Much more pleasant than ascending any of the slopes toward Teakettle from YBB. |
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8/13/2022 Route: Roach's Variation Posted On: 8/13/2022, By: ScottLovesRMNP Info: From a "slog" perspective, I found heading up left from the highest grass towards the Black Gully to be more direct and less elevation gain than climbing first to the ridge below Coffeepot as I had done last year when I climbed Potosi. For those not interested in Coffeepot, Roach's variation makes sense from an effort perspective. HOWEVER, in my opinion the Black Gully isn't the dream corridor that some have suggested. It's steep and has plenty of dangerous loose rock in it. We saw folks descending the Black Gully let rocks loose (it's hard not to), and those rocks tumbled at breakneck speed hundreds of feet down into the basin below. We avoided being in the line of fire by following the use trail from the base of the Black Gully for some distance towards the Coffeepot. Be VERY CAREFUL in that area if there are other climbers between the highest grass and the top of the Black Gully. Even with my normally "light feet", I also sent plenty of rocks down -- it's really hard to avoid. The standard Coffeepot approach might be the worse slog (having now done them both), but it also might be the safer corridor. Weigh the pros and cons and make your best choice. |
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6/28/2022 Route: Yankee boy Posted On: 6/28/2022, By: zootloopz Info: Just as loose as everyone says. Summer conditions if you pick the right gullies. No ropes. Used trail runners. |
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6/25/2022 Route: Standard Posted On: 6/26/2022, By: Buddyboy27 Info: All dry. Rap slings and rings look good, some are showing a little wear. Not sure who has been setting them, but thanks! Potosi north chute looks skiable still with a bit of finesse here and there |
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5/15/2022 Route: South Face Posted On: 5/15/2022, By: supranihilest Info: First 800 or so feet are dry unless you find a snow gully. In the bowl south of Teakettle all snow. Very suncupped snow in the western couloir, some ice under the snow. Ledge traverse is melting out a bit but possible to stay on snow 99% of the way to the summit ridge. Snow on the summit block eliminates most of the lower scramble into the chimney, which has a bit of snow jammed into it at the bottom but is mostly avoidable. Rappel anchors and rings are in good shape. Gear: ice axe and crampons mandatory for the couloir and ledges. Flotation pretty useless, the route is too steep. Rope for rappelling if you don't want to down climb the summit block. |
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8/14/2021 Route: Standard Posted On: 8/16/2021, By: Will_E Info: Webbing and quick links at summit are in good shape. Scree filled gully is not in good shape, it was miserable to come down. |
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7/28/2021 Route: Black Gully Posted On: 7/30/2021, By: Slawson405 Info: Summer conditions. Had a wet week, the moisture helped the rubble in the black gully solidify so its pretty stable. Initial Choss slog up to coffeepot is loose, as always apparently. Came down the west side of Coffeepot on the way down and was very glad i did. |
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6/27/2021 Route: Southeast Ridge Posted On: 6/27/2021, By: kempenjn Info: Microspikes highly recommended. Hail and snow overnight from 6/26-6/27. Loose rock and mud is the name of the game. Black gully has some snow. A few snowfields to cross before the black gully. No snow on summit pitch. Rap station is adequately equipped with ~4 slings, a few rap rings, one wiregate carabiner, one quicklink. Met up with Ocnorb unexpectedly. I lead my first trad pitch and set up a toprope for 5 of us. |
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5/12/2021 Route: South Gully Posted On: 5/12/2021, By: SnowAlien Info: Great conditions and good coverage, a bit avy debris in the narrow part of the gully. So much better as a snow climb than when dry. 30m rope is perfect for the rap. Dropped in around 11am, chute was still a bit firm, apron was perfect. |
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8/3/2020 Route: Yankee Boy Direct Posted On: 8/3/2020, By: Unknown Info: Loose rock as expected, slings in good shape, and a few cairns to mark the route. Solo up rap down, made for a 8~ hour day and a tough 3.3mi and 2,815'. Climbed with coffeepot as well |
