Pigeon Peak

Route: Standard from N Pigeon
Posted On: 7/31/2024, By: eskermo
Info: Entire route is dry. Near the big chimney close to the ridgeline, we took a cool right trending ramp at class 3 with maybe one class 4 move, then followed broken rock and easier scrambling just climbers right of the ridgeline to the summit. On the way down, we stayed a little farther away from the ridgeline and zig zagged down mostly class 2 climber trail segments interupted by an occasional class 3 step down. We both thought this route could probably be kept completely at Class 3 if you prefer loose steep dirt over solid scrambling. We took the train into Needleton and packed up N Pigeon Creek (Tie Creek on some maps). We saw no other people from the time we left Needleton bridge until we got back to the bridge. Good but steep, sometimes loose trail up until ~10,200'. From there, we generally climbed up a drainage on easier ground, then traversed right holding elevation until wrapping around each minor ridgeline. Sometimes there were cairns and trail segments, other times you need to follow your nose for the easiest path. We got turned around on P&T via N Pigeon 8 years ago. By comparison, the line we took up N Pigeon Creek was way easier and more manageable. The bushwhacking is not fun, but felt totally manageable and not as heinous as we remembered. We downloaded 3 different GPX tracks to guide us - none were spot on anything resembling a trail for longer than 100 yards, but were great to use as a general guide. The camping at 11,740' is exceptional. There is no running water in the flat meadow. However if you walk uphill to ~11,820' the creek still has plenty of running water to filter. The pika colony barked at us the entire time at camp, but the marmots and pikas left us alone. No other wildlife. We tried to take a different line back down to the Columbine tree at the Ruby junction, but it seemed very similar in nature to our ascent - follow your nose and loosely follow the GPX tracks and it is pretty much all the same 'shwacking. 

Route: Turret and Pigeon from Ruby Basin
Posted On: 7/7/2024, By: Justin9
Info: Turret and Pigeon all clear and summer conditions. We camped in Ruby basin after climbing Jagged and the approach up Ruby was quite nice. The exit out North Pigeon Creek was, on the other hand horrendous and not recommended. 

Route: Standard West Couloir
Posted On: 7/7/2024, By: supranihilest
Info: From the 11,600 foot meadow in Ruby Basin we climbed up the super steep slope to the Pigeon/Turret saddle. A little bit of willow bashing on the lower parts. Upper parts had some scree and boulder hopping. All snow is avoidable. We dropped down towards the saddle over which we'd be in Tie Creek basin. Grass and kitty litter got us to the saddle, then it was hardpan, scree, and talus to get even lower to bypass all the ridges off of Pigeon. The west couloir is enormous and you can get like 700 feet of ascent on steep grass. This eventually leads to more kitty litter, then the Class 3 summit scramble. The rock to the summit is solid but there's lots of gravel on everything. On ascent we scrambled more or less directly to the ridge, then up to the summit. This was mostly Class 3 with a couple of moves of Class 4. On descent we went more directly north down gravely ledges at Class 3. All snow is avoidable on route. We descended the couloir again and reascended most of the way to the Pigeon/Turret saddle, opting to stay on grass to get closer to Turret instead of returning to the saddle itself first. 

Route: SW Slopes from upper Ruby Basin via Chicago Basin
Posted On: 9/3/2023, By: cloudkicker
Info: Summer conditions. Pigeon had no register. Turrets register had a bunch of tattered paper in it but some intact entries dating back to 2014. Itinerary: Day 1. Needle Creek approach from train stop, camped at 11100 in Chi Basin. Day 2. Sunlight, Windom, Peak 18, Glacier Point. Day 3. Traverse over Twin Thumbs Pass and Ruby-Noname Pass, camp at 11600 in upper Ruby Basin. Day 4. Pigeon and Turret. Day 5. Hike past Ruby Lake down and out to Needleton. It needs to be emphasized how dangerous the Noname side of Twin Thumbs Pass is. Loose kitty litter on very steep class 3 terrain near the top of the pass. With how popular the centennials are becoming, I foresee the route from Chicago basin also becoming more popular, and a SAR event is bound to happen on Twin Thumbs. I recommend bringing a partner and some paracord to lower your heavy packs off the top. I was solo and had to detach my daypack and bear can to leave half my weight near the top, downclimbing 100 feet to drop half my pack before going back up for the rest. There is one snowfield left in upper Noname basin between the two passes. In order to avoid this snowfield I dropped into the shallow gully on the Twin Thumbs side. This involved more kitty litter scree and I fell once with my heavy pack. Extreme caution is warranted in between the passes no matter which way you go. Pigeon had even worse kitty litter near the top. The most loose mountain I have ever climbed. Ruby Basin is the most beautiful place i have ever backpacked in, and also the most brutal backpacking trip I have ever done. Worth it for the views and 88/105 though. 

Route: Ruby Basin Approach
Posted On: 8/15/2023, By: zinj
Info: Snowed above 13,300 night of 8/11 - 8/12. In Ruby Basin, rained for 13 hours straight (too wet for summit attempt on 8/12) Approach: Chicago Basin to Twin Lakes b/w/o Twin Thumbs Pass (into Noname Basin), then through unnamed pass into Ruby Basin. Chicago Basin - Twin Lakes: Bomber. Excellent, high quality trail. You'll make good time even under heavy backpack load. Twin Lakes - Twin Thumbs Pass: Very good. No trail but lush grass & sand slope. Footing easy. Twin Thumbs Pass to below North ramparts of Glacier Pt: Very poor. Sandpile mixed with SUBSTANTIAL snowfields. Spikes might help on steeper pitches. I went without and was okay. Partner wiped out and slid 250 feet uncontrolled to end of snowfield. Below North ramparts of Glacier Pt - Southern Noname - Ruby pass: Moderate. Would be easy without heavy pack. Mixed Talus, tundra, grass. Southern Noname - Ruby pass - 11,600 ft meadow in Ruby pass: More difficult. Some willow bashing. Stay far to climber's left.(Northest) Descending from Ruby Basin around Ruby Lake and back to Needleton: stuff of nightmares. I have no idea how anyone could ASCEND to Ruby Basin this way. It's worse than Vestal Basin. Some parts have climbers trails, but it's easily lost in other parts and isn't necessarily in a good location even when it is apparent. As beautiful and remote as Ruby Basin is, I will NEVER climb to it from the Animas River. Return to get Pigeon (and Turret), if I EVER return, will have to be by Pigeon Creek, which is reportedly not any better than what I've described, but is a shorter approach. 

Route: Standard
Posted On: 9/17/2022, By: Dan_Suitor
Info: Snow and ice on the top. Warming temperatures may melt off some. 

Route: North Pigeon Creek
Posted On: 9/6/2022, By: ScottLovesRMNP
Info: The route (or lack thereof) is as-advertised. Even with extensive studying of the route, it's easy to get turned around up there or find yourself sidehilling steep slopes! But the basin at the top of North Pigeon Creek is one of the most spectacular places I've ever camped. ROach's description of the route is very good, and he's right, it's worth it! 

Route: Standard
Posted On: 8/31/2022, By: Grover
Info: Reporting live from the summit! An update for those making plans for Pigeon Pk. this wknd. Approach: Needleton to N. Pigeon Creek. It is as advertised: Steep bushwacking. I pulled enough waypoints from TR's and other sites to help ensure I was on target to get into the basin . Cross N. Pigeon Creek at 9,500. Leave Ruby Creek Trail at 9,800. BushwackFest for 2,000 vertical. I did NOT cross the creek and always stayed north of it. This is the way to go. The grind and fighting your way up to 11,700 is worth it. Great camping under Pigeon. Water flowing in the basin. A group of 6 mountain goats on the grassy ramparts of Pigeon. Route from basin to summit is also a grind. Well cairned route to summit after the loose scree gully. Reco 1: Wear long sleeves hiking in. The branches hit back. Reco 2: Bring bug spray. Small gnats swarm when you stop hiking, even at the campsite. 

Route: Tie creek
Posted On: 7/10/2022, By: zootloopz
Info: On top now. Summer conditions. Fun scramble. Beautiful views. Tie Creek is great. Black flies out in full force. Got here via NY Basin descent off North Eolus and traverse under Peak 15. 

Route: West slopes
Posted On: 5/1/2022, By: smartt
Info: Camped near needleton. Woke up to a 15 degree morning. The low amount of snow left on pigeon was nice and firm for crampons and an ice axe. I was able to descend before the snow got too soft. 

Route: Tie Creek
Posted On: 1/11/2022, By: blazintoes
Info: From Purgatory TH. Had to park at the ski resort. Went in Friday late afternoon. There were 2 downed trees and avy terrain 2 miles in. Forgot how much uphill there is down to the train tracks. The tracks weren't plowed past the Cascade Wye and I had enough solo trenching after 7 miles. Set up base camp by 10pm. Saturday morning it started to snow so I moved base camp to the Needleton Bridge and waited for team Chicago Basin to arrive. Did some gear repair, tried not to eat all my food, fell asleep and missed Team CB. By evening it stopped snowing and I was cold so decided to cut fresh tracks up North Pigeon Creek for an early Sunday departure. By 0300 Sunday I made quick time to Tie Creek but then it gets steep. Class 4 hardcore snowshoe effort while yarding on trees. Was definitely on avalanche terrain the entire time on the north aspects of the ridge. This was time consuming and burned a lot of energy. The sun came up and I could see into Ruby basin and Pigeon creek. Beautiful! Decided to go for Turret first because the uphill back to Pigeon is demoralizing. It was cold but the winter weather after a snow storm was perfect. It dumped about 5 inches of fresh sugary snow and was unsupportive. I rock hopped as much as possible with microspikes. Snowshoes were too cumbersome and crampons would ball up even with anti balling plates. Thought I'd never say this but microspikes worked best all day. Constantly changing gear ate up time. Got to Turret later than expected and didn't waste time to Pigeon. Saw an old avalanche but had zero concern because the snow conditions were stable. Did the same rock hopping but switched to crampons on the slabs. Once on Pigeon I waved to Team CB and zoomed in on the summit picture because I was scared of the cornice. Found a safer way down and definitely used crampons for the descent. Found my old tracks at 11,800 and ran into a majestic lonely male mountain goat who was using my tracks to skirt around Pigeon. Who makes good tracks? Their hooves are bigger than I thought. The sun set and I was a little stressed because I had to work Monday afternoon. My tracks back down to base camp were a breeze then I quickly packed up and blazed through Team CB's tracks back up. Thanks for paying it forward. The hike out was brainless which was good because my legs and brain were mush. There's a super highway to CB and a rural highway to Pigeon Creek. There's a good weather window. Go get it! 

Route: Ruby Basin
Posted On: 9/27/2021, By: Jon Frohlich
Info: Water still flowing in Ruby Basin above the lake. A few people were camped up there over the weekend. It doesn't look like there is any water down in North Pigeon. No register on the summit. I feel like the trail to Ruby has gotten a bit easier to follow but it could just be that being there before made it go faster. Still tons of deadfall and trees to navigate though. 

Route: N Pigeon Creek
Posted On: 9/13/2021, By: Marmot72
Info: Posting some info on this approach. First, I had thought to camp in the upper basin but sweating with the bigger pack I found a nice knoll at around 9160'; I'm guessing just shy of a half mile of the famous Columbine Tree that marks the trail split between the trail to Ruby and the trail up the ridge to N Pigeon. This spot is on the left of the trail as you ascend, and has two small flat areas for tents. The trail starts so strong from the split (37.64182 N 107.67574 W), but falls away so fast. Looking at the top, the trail stays a bit north of the creek; it petered out shortly after 37.64207 N 107.67385 W. Going up, I got led further north by a few cairns, and so took a trajectory much higher than standard. Both up and down, it was a bushwhack between 10.2k and 10.8k. Ascending, a couple rogue cairns and tiny trails took me farther north and higher than needed. I ended up at 37.64013N 107.66286W, 11,133', looking up a Pigeon's NW sub-summit. To go southward across the peak or drop looked decidedly tiresome, as it was all a rock pile, so I did an ascending traverse to 12,000 (337.63515N, 107.65688W) where a chute provided easy access over the small but spiny ridge that spurs SW from the jumbled area around point 13252 on the map. From here, it was an easy contour over to the brand ledges and trail sections up to Pigeon Creek. Descending from Turret, I aimed to find the easier lower route that I'd missed on the way up. Following the most expedient way down I found a great trail that lasted for maybe 30 yards before it ended in a morass of steep and densely wooded slopes. I found some helpful cairns and a faint trail that was nonetheless worth following at 37.63701N, 107.66289W. Racing against the dropping sun, I lost the trail in the fading light at 37.54235N, 107.66716W, only about a tenth of a mile due west of where I'd lost it on my way up. A little over 1 mile and about 1700 feet separated me from my tent, and only half of it on a discernible trail. That mile took me an hour of stumbling, slipping, and cursing in the night. But it was worth it, because the next day would bring unending rain, and I was able to get out with Pigeon and Turret, unlike the prior year in Ruby, when it snowed. 

Route: From Ruby Basin
Posted On: 7/18/2021, By: yaktoleft13
Info: A couple of fresh fallen trees on the Ruby Basin trail add to the difficulty of the last few miles. No snow. All routes up the peaks in the area visible from the summit are snow free. 

Route: Northwest Face
Posted On: 7/6/2021, By: Snow_Dog_frassati
Info: Summer conditions, not much more to say than that