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"East Partner Peak"

Peak Condition Updates  
9/16/2023
Route: From Booth Lake
Posted On: 9/16/2023, By: Laxer04
Info: Traversed West to East. Incredible day, perfect conditions. The gores are bone dry! They avoided the snow that hit the central mountains. There is no parking at Booth Lake TH. We parked at Pitkin Lake TH and then went up to Booth Lake, up to East Partner, traversed over to West Partner and back down to Pitkin. The traverse took us just under 2 hours. We mostly stayed ridge proper but did drop down to the south side to avoid some nasty terrain at one point. Looking back it looked doable, likely low class 5. Mostly solid rock on the traverse. Just really good class 3/4 scrambling. We opted to downclimb a gulley from East Partner instead of taking the ridge. Bad idea. While it was a more direct route to Pitkin Lake the rock was awful and it was slow going. We didn't see a single person all day until we ran into someone who climbed East Partner solo. This is an incredible traverse, highly recommend. My Strava (not always the most accurate so take it for what its worth) came in at 15.32 miles 7540 ft of vert. 
8/16/2023
Route: East ridge
Posted On: 8/19/2023, By: SnowAlien
Info: From our campsite @10,800 in Pitkin Creek we took the trail to the lake for 0.5 mile. Just prior to the lake we picked up a faint trail which took us on grassy shoulder to the upper bench. From there the steep grass hike to the south ridge, where the difficulties commenced. GrizzlyAdams stayed the ridge proper, while I skirted a few bumps on the west side of the ridge. POMR goes at stiff 4 - low 5th. There was some (avoidable) snow, big horn sheep and quality scrambling. We arrived on the summit before 9am and then continued to West Partner. No register to be found. 
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7/9/2023
Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 7/10/2023, By: Un Jaryd
Info: The Eastern Ridge on E Partner is snow free as long as you can handle staying Ridge proper. This makes it a Class 4/Low 5 climb. Been in the Gores last 2 weekends (Snow Peak last week) and there is still a lot of snow on everything. Most of the peaks are doable if your route flexible but some of the big Ridge days might have to wait a couple more weeks. There is still a lot of steep snowfields on the fun ridgelines that make avoiding towers risky/impossible later in the day. Posting Pics of Partner, Snow, and the views from summits. 
11
9/13/2022
Route: South Ridge from Pitkin Creek Trailhead
Posted On: 9/13/2022, By: JasonKline
Info: Currently summer conditions with no snow or ice. Of course, that could change any day with the turning weather. 
6/29/2022
Route: Partners Traverse
Posted On: 6/30/2022, By: blueshade
Info: Traverse to West Partner Snow easily avoidable near the lake. None on route 
1/30/2022
Route: SW Couloir
Posted On: 1/31/2022, By: ClimberSkierDave64
Info: Had a great day skiing the Southwest Couloir yesterday! It seemed that 2 people skied it the day before so there was a skin track and then a bootpack all the way up the couloir. The snow from the week prior had a sun crust on top in some places and a wind crust/wind slab in the upper portion of the couloir. The final summit scramble was short and straightforward, but it did have lots of facets on top of the rock. The first 100 ft of the couloir were extremely thin up until a choke point where a little bit of a crux move was needed. The apron and slopes leading back to Pitkin Lake definitely had the best powder and skied very well! We were able to ski from the top all the way back to the parking area. We did observe the avalanche on a NW facing slope on "Skiers Point" later in the day. It ran all the way to the valley floor and crossed the main skin track that we had used in the morning. On the ski down, we stayed on the opposite side of the drainage, but from what we could see the debris looked to be piled up pretty deep. Be super careful about crossing under some of those avy paths! 
15 4
10/3/2020
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 10/3/2020, By: supranihilest
Info: A rather convoluted route. We took the Pitkin Trail until just shy of Pitkin Lake. From there we headed east up a shallow rib to a steep grass and dirt gully. The ridge then turned north and we had some minor scrambling along the way to a giant block on the ridge. The block is Class 4 to the top via a couple of chimneys, but we ended up down climbing and traversing around the block to the east on steep, loose junk since we couldn't see an end to the difficult scrambling from the top. This sidehilling continued until the summit block, where we went up sets of slabby dihedrals. The feet were generally pretty junky and loose. The dihedrals funneled to the summit. The summit block was a couple hundred feet of sustained Class 3 with an occasional Class 4 move. We returned the way we came instead of doing the Partners Traverse. 
7/21/2016
Route: Partners Traverse
Posted On: 7/22/2016, By: WillRobnett
Info: Climb East Partner Pk via traverse 
7/14/2016
Route: View from The Fly
Posted On: 7/17/2016, By: WillRobnett
Info: Climbed Spider and the Fly, view from The Fly. West Partner upper left in shadow, East Partner in the sun slightly to it's right. 
6/24/2012
Route: Standard
Posted On: 6/24/2012, By: Dave B
Info: Pitkin lake trail completely dry, in fact the meadows look like August more than anything. Ridges and approaches to E. Partner (and from the looks of it W. Partner as well) dry and only isolated patches of snow. Amazing place.