Whale Peak

Route: Whale Tail
Posted On: 5/1/2021, By: yaktoleft13
Info: Had to park 1.8 miles below upper trailhead at the parking area before Hall Valley turnoff. Doesn't look like anyone's made it to the upper trailhead yet. Used snowshoes from upper trailhead to base of couloir. Whale Tail was in perfect condition when we started up at 7:20. Great bootpack up the couloir; my wife just used spikes and was fine. For the descent, we went north off the summit about 75 feet to a break in the cornice and downclimbed 50 feet to a dry area, where we took off spikes. We were able to glissade from there all the way back to the lake. 

Route: Whale’s Tail Couloir
Posted On: 4/25/2021, By: Sglm14
Info: A group of us went up Whale's Tail today to Whale Peak. Trail was easy to follow due to previous tracks but we lost them in a few places.Snowshoes were definitely helpful on the approach and back. Switched to crampons on the base. We started kind of late so snow was very soft at that point. Once on the ridge it was wind blown. From there it was a short walk to the summit. Wind was not a factor today until we got to the ridge. Very warm day today but overall a fabulous day! Trench in place 

Route: Whales Tail Couloir
Posted On: 4/25/2021, By: cougar
Info: Road still snowed in past hall valley campground. Lots of mix of ruts, tracked out melting snow, mud, and puddles to that point. Parked a little lower, the OHV staging lot is a good spot, or a short way past. Used snowshoes for the whole approach from Gibson lake summer TH and back. Decently packed but melting slop in afternoon so still recommended. Couloir had a mix of snow conditions but was mostly soft and difficult making steps. Steeper sections midway and near the top were firmer. A slide entered the lower part after we'd climbed. Lots of rollers. Skiers descended and conditions looked good for a ski descent. 

Route: Gibson Lake
Posted On: 4/19/2021, By: angry
Info: Parked approximately 1.8 miles below the th. Snowshoed from car to summit and back, gaining ridge from SW. 

Route: Whale's Tail Couloir
Posted On: 4/17/2021, By: supranihilest
Info: Whale's Tail was perfect today. Don't try to drive too far up the road when the snow begins in earnest, a couple of Subarus got stuck in the morning. Snow from Gibson Lake Trailhead to around treeline is all powder, and we put in a track. From treeline to the bottom of the couloir the route weaves around some, and near Gibson Lake it goes south to avoid cliffs below the couloir. I put a booter all the way up climber's right side of the couloir. Snow was several inches of powder with wet to icy snow underneath. The bottom and top had some front pointing. The summit ridge has some rocks and thin snow, beware if skiing. The couloir was in great shape for skiing (my partner skied, I was on snowshoes). Gear: flotation mandatory, ice axe and/or crampons highly desired (especially if steps are frozen in the morning). I didn't use my axe as anything more than a short trekking pole but personally found crampons useful in a few short sections. 

Route: Jefferson Lake Traverse
Posted On: 2/1/2021, By: gluckhikes
Info: Road is closed 3.5 miles below Jefferson Lake. Brief deep snowshoe climb followed by loose talus gully to gain the ridge. No flotation or traction needed for the entire ridge over the 12ers and Whale Peak. Broke a deep trench through the trees from ridge of Glacier Peak to the Lake. 17 mile trip. 

Route: Southeast Ridge from Jefferson Lake
Posted On: 11/21/2020, By: supranihilest
Info: The winter road closure is currently 1.2 miles below Jefferson Lake and could be pushed back farther depending on conditions. The road is in good shape right now, perhaps a bit icy. From the boat launch area we went basically due east into the forest, where snow began. The snow was variable across the entire mountain, sometimes rock hard, sometimes sugary, sometimes punch crust, and anywhere from a dusting to knee deep. We didn't use snowshoes and they would probably not be helpful at this point. We weaved our way through the forest, dropping a bit farther south towards cliffs and a talus field that funneled us upwards alongside the forest. When the snow got irritatingly deep we went up onto the talus and boulders, which were moderately steep and stupid roly-poly - be careful if you go onto the rocks. Follow the gully to the ridge, where things dry out significantly, then go north towards Point 12,088. There's little snow to contend with along the way. Dropping down towards the saddle with Point 12,567 there's some snow, but nothing serious. Ascending 12,567's south slopes takes forever, this blob is enormous and like a mile away. The summit area is pretty flat and we wandered around a bit, eventually agreeing that the summit cairn is accurate. The distance from 12,567 to Whale is also quite long, but carry on. There's not much snow until you reach the narrower ridge up Whale. The north side has more than the south, pretty sugary garbage too. It looks like there might be some scrambling along the way, but there isn't unless you force it. The final push is steep and is tiny, loose scree that's somewhat frozen together. No snow on the short summit ridge. If you out and back this route like we did don't forget you have to go over both 12ers on your way back too. They can sort of be skirted - west and east for 12,567 and 12,088, respectively - but you re-gain most of that elevation. Going back down the gully we avoided the rocks, since postholing going downhill is infinitely better than postholing going uphill. Equipment: snowshoes not useful currently (perhaps after the next storm, but still questionable unless it's a huge dump), we brought ice axes and microspikes and used neither. Avalanche gear not needed currently, but be very aware of the current snowpack for the future - there were plenty of slabs that went from the top of the snowpack to the ground, and plenty of very slick crusts on the snow. These could last all season and provide a bed surface for snow to slide on in the future. 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/3/2020, By: Mountain_hiker100
Info: No snow, or mud actually on the ridge or the peak. Before getting to Gibson lake, on the Gibson lake trail, there was tons of mud, and river crossings. Nothing to bad though, just expect to get your hiking boots a little dirty and wet. It was cold and windy up there, so make sure to bring some layers! 

Route: Gibson Lake
Posted On: 6/28/2020, By: Hannah_Madden
Info: Road was dry, creek crossing is also very shallow. No snow until above tree line. One or two small patches before the lake, easily crossed. Trail is pretty soupy as well. We went up the slope north of the lake and summit and down the south ridge. Although there was snow on the slope going up we were able to completely avoid it. No snow at all on the route south of the lake going up the ridge. There's also a bit of a trail on that side. First photo is of the peak and the slope we ascended, second two are of the south ridge. 

Route: Gibson Lake
Posted On: 6/25/2020, By: 14erAddict
Info: Snow is avoidable if you head right at the lake and continue right to reach the ridge. Ridge is dry. Trail is sloppy near the lake from snow melt. 

Route: Georgia Pass TH
Posted On: 6/21/2020, By: stenquistm
Info: Parked at Georgia Pass and hiked to Whale Pk over Glacier Pk. A few snow patches across the road at the start of the hike. Melting fast, and easy to avoid (or walk through, they are short). Once you get through the access in gate: the hike is virtually dry the whole way. Did not use spikes. Pleasant tundra stroll, 9 mi RT. 

Route: From Georgia Pass
Posted On: 5/31/2020, By: AnastasiaC
Info: Parked about 1.25 miles from the top of the pass, before tight switchback. Still a lot of snow on the road and below treeline. I don't believe snowshoes would have helped, expect to posthole. Dry above treeline. Total distance was a little over 12 miles and ~2200' of gain. 

Route: Whales tail couloir
Posted On: 5/23/2020, By: Agstrohmeier
Info: Road clear of snow to Gibson lake trailhead, although pretty rough. Patchy snow for about 2 miles from there, we wore trail runners. Were able to mostly skin from there to the base of the couloir, a couple sections of hiking. Couloir is in decent shape, a slide took out a small section but still skiable. We reached the summit at 10am, a bit later than ideal but the skiing was still good. 7 miles 2700ft gain from the Gibson lake trailhead. 

Route: East Face from Gibson Lake
Posted On: 5/10/2020, By: Ptglhs
Info: As of Sunday it look like a couple of people had managed to drive all the way up to the trailhead for Gibson Lake. You would need high clearance four-wheel drive given some of the snow patches and Rock still on the road. Any sedan can make it to the handcart campground. Don't miss the Footbridge over the creek. It's there. The trail was 99% snow covered up to Treeline. After that there is some bare Tundra and then a lot of snow coverage on the East face. I wore snowshoes and used my ice ax on the way up and was able to glissade on the way down. Climbers right face or climbers left couloir are both in for skiing. The trail is not evident below tree line so follow the tracks of previous hikers. 1: face seen from ~11.5k, below lake. 2: how much of the "trail" looks. 

Route: NE Slopes
Posted On: 10/12/2019, By: durkan
Info: Trail had maybe 90% snow from TH to lake that was an inch or less deep. Stayed to the north of Gibson Lake down in the bowl and then went up and down the NE slopes. From lake up to summit was continuous snow that was a few inches deep atop talus and scree and made for some frustrating steps. Other than the wind, a rather beautiful day!