McHenrys Peak

Route: Stoneman
Posted On: 10/13/2024, By: ekalina
Info: Dry conditions. We took the trail above Black Lake and approached the pass from climber's left, not entering the couloir until we were nearly at the pass. This was more solid than the scree in the couloir, but required care not to pull any blocks out in the couple of brief third class sections we encountered along the way. The route finding and scrambling between the pass and the summit was easier than we expected. There were a number of cairns for guidance, and most of the remaining route was boulder/talus hopping until we passed through the notch/keyhole in the rock rib. From there we ascended some ledges and went up the lighter-colored rock on climber's left. This lighter rock featured the toughest scrambling of the route (still class 3) and some loose rock, but both were brief. On the way back we reversed the route, except we didn't take the pass but stayed near the ridge until just past the stone man and then followed cairns down. This deviation featured wonderfully solid rock with occasional short class 3 sections and is already discussed on this site (see first TR below). Both of us greatly preferred it to stone man pass. Helpful trip reports: https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=20562 https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=21864 

Route: Arrowhead/NE Ridge to Stoneman Pass
Posted On: 8/4/2024, By: colin j
Info: Summer conditions. The South Ramp of Arrowhead has a short 4th class section and is a good way to gain the ridge. With good route finding the ridge can be kept 4th class but there is a lot of 5.fun options to take and this is now one of my favorite ridge scrambles. Stoneman pass still holds an avoidable snowfield; it's easier to just go around it compared to bringing an ice axe. These days Glacier Gorge trailhead is filling up by 4:30 on weekends. 

Route: Stone Man
Posted On: 7/24/2024, By: Torgotant
Info: Climbed today. Followed dboltons excellent Trip Report up to the Stone Man ridge. All snow avoidable or inconsequential getting to the ridge. Backside (south face) of McHenrys is entirely snow free except a small snowfield in the final gully past the keyhole. Though this too is entirely avoidable. Took the gully from Stone Man Pass down. While there is still a lot of snow lingering most of it is avoidable by a foot wide path along the wall (climbers right). One section of sketchy slabs with few holds to avoid the soft/steep snow, but this was maybe a 10ft section. 

Route: from Glacier Gorge
Posted On: 6/23/2024, By: WIclimber
Info: Lots of snow in the gully so I followed DBolton's suggestion and climbed straight to Stone Man. Still some steep snowfields to cross on the back side. Snow is variable - some places I postholed, some was slushy but I could kick steps into firm snow underneath, watch for the third kind - iced over and impenetrable. I recommend an axe but did not use traction. Great opportunities for scrambling on solid rock abounded on both sides! 

Route: Stoneman Pass
Posted On: 9/11/2023, By: Samwass24
Info: The route up to Stoneman pass is fully clear of snow. No microspikes needed. 

Route: Via Glacier Gorge and Stone Man Pass
Posted On: 7/28/2023, By: Corey17
Info: Summitted McHenrys today solo with only summer equipment. There's still some snow up there, primarily on the approaches to Stone Man Pass. The main gully used to access the pass is still completely snowed in - the late snow season still haunts us! I incidentally used dbolton's suggested route (https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=20562) to reach Stone Man Pass, and wholeheartedly agree that it's an enjoyable way to access the pass. Class 3 slabs made it easy enough, and it was fun! Some of the lower slabs were still buried in some mandatory snow crossings; they are short and can be crossed without any extra equipment. The last stretch above the pass was snow-free and a delightful scramble! These RMNP 13ers are absolute treasures. 

Route: Notch Couloir
Posted On: 7/9/2023, By: Wildernessjane
Info: Summited McHenrys via Notch Couloir today and descended the standard route (Stone Man Pass). Managed to navigate all water crossings without getting wet feet, which seemed like it was going to be the crux of the day. The couloir is still fat and will definitely be in for awhile. The snow was great for kicking steps (no ice). We topped out at around 9:00. The scramble/5.fun section leading to the summit was entirely free of snow but there was a fair bit of wet slab for us. There is still a considerable amount of snow on the backside of the mountain but we managed to stay on rock for most of the descent until we hit Stone Man Pass. There were a couple of short, unavoidable snow crossings. Crampons and ice axe are still needed for getting up to Stone Man Pass. For pic #3, we stayed high on the ridge instead of taking the ramp and it was super fun. 

Route: from Thatchtop
Posted On: 8/27/2022, By: SnowAlien
Info: Starting from Bear lake, we gained the north slope of Thatchtop to the summit. From there, we took the NE ridge towards Powell (exposed, low class 5). Tagged Taylor and returned to Powell. From there, we tried to stay high on the ridge, but kept getting cliffed out, until eagle-eyed Eric spotted cairns way down below. We downclimbed some low class 5 cracks and took the wraparound ledge that took us to the Notch. Clouds were really building, so we tried to hurry up the gully up from the Notch. From the top of the gully, Eric tried to take ridge direct again, but it looked time consuming, and I spotted a nice ramp on the right side. As soon as we got to the summit, the hiking poles started buzzing, so we took the SE ridge down as expediently as possible. Got graupel and rain and it went on for 2+ hours. We came down the Stoneman pass, traversed the basin above the Black lake and caught the trail from the base of Spearhead. Trail back was very wet, we arrived back to the cars just before 8pm. 

Route: Stone Man Pass
Posted On: 8/14/2022, By: ElBert604
Info: Route is fully dry, gully to Stone man pass seems a bit eroded, is half dirt/half scree. 

Route: from stone man pass
Posted On: 7/29/2022, By: Laxer04
Info: Climbed via Glacier Gorge TH, Stone Man Pass. There is a small amount of snow in the first gulley past Frozen Lake. I was able to avoid it by climbing around it to the left, my climbing partner opted to cross it using his axe. The rest of the route is snow free and well cairned. We made the mistake of trying to descend the grass slopes to the north of Black Lake. Bad idea. Steep grass slopes, willows, prickers, wet slabs, etc. It was miserable, despite looking like a quicker option from the pass. Mchenrys is an absolute gem. Highly recommend. The route we took came in at around 16 miles, 4400 ft of elevation gain 

Route: SE Ridge/Stoneman Pass
Posted On: 8/21/2021, By: colin j
Info: Lingering snow/ice patches from Thursday night starting in the gully leading to the pass and becoming more persistent on upper route. No traction needed, just solid footwork and routefinding. I'd expect wet and potentially icy rock for the next day or two above 13k in the northern front range. Started 5:05, summited 9:40, return 2:15 from Bear Lake TH (Last parking spot at Glacier Gorge taken by car in front of me at 4:40 AM). 

Route: Stoneman pass
Posted On: 8/7/2021, By: Envisage24
Info: The gully to the pass is free of snow. All snow is avoidable on the route. 

Route: Stone man pass/the stone man ledges
Posted On: 7/10/2021, By: Alpinefroggy
Info: Only saw stone man pass and stone man ledges from black lake, did not climb the route. Holding lots of snow on either route. You will need crampons and an ax to pass this part of the route to get to mchenrys. 

Route: Stoneman Pass
Posted On: 7/12/2021, By: supranihilest
Info: From Black Lake we scrambled up the ledges and slabs west of the lake instead of taking the east gully up and over. This route goes at Class 3. Contrary to the last report you do not need an axe or traction to ascend to or descend from Stoneman Pass, but most people will want at least an axe and microspikes. The snow definitely makes things difficult and sketchy but we got by with just trekking poles. On our ascent we scrambled up wet, grassy, muddy slabs and ledges to the snow at the choke. This was on climber's left side of the snow. Heather then crossed a wet, gravel covered slab to the right side and I hacked steps up the snow with a rock before crossing right. Once on the right side of the snow at the bottom it was dry but steep and loose to the top of the pass, and then a delightful Class 3 scramble (too many options to describe them all) to the summit. We returned to the pass, carefully picked our way down the loose, steep stuff to the snow, and this time stuck to descender's left the whole way. This was a little easier and less sketchy as it avoided all the wet slabs and wet scrambling until the last moment, where there was a short Class 4 scramble or short descent on snow to the top of a large snowfield which we crossed instead of glissading and made our way back to Black Lake. 

Route: Standard route from Stoneman
Posted On: 8/16/2020, By: ronbco
Info: Still steep snow fields on direct route to stone man pass. Recommend going to stoneman itself and then around it to the pass. No snow on the std route from the pass. But if you get off route and try Below and beyond the rib then snow will be an issue. Note that we got off route because we didn't understand the standard route based on the description of it being a “gully”. It's more like a broad and not steep face.