Mt. Edwards

Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 6/20/2025, By: rocks512
Info: The route still has several snow crossings headed up to Argentine pass, traction is very helpful in the morning, steep sidehill crossings. After the pass the route is snow free. After hitting the summit we took the connector ridge up to Grays Peak and back down the West side of Horseshoe basin and for the most part was snow free. Met some great fellow climbers on the summit of Edwards. 

Route: South Face to North Face
Posted On: 6/14/2025, By: ericahlstedt
Info: After skiing the SE Face of Greys, I scrambled up the south side of Edwards just to the left of the Edwardian Couloir. The North Face still has 1 line that goes, its a bit technical, tight, and steep up high. It won't be in much longer. Dropped at 1015am and was pretty great. Saw someone drop the Edwardian, looked pretty good. 

Route: N face
Posted On: 4/11/2025, By: mcgrawt9
Info: Having never skied the N face before, seems like the route is kind of whatever is filled in. I climbed lookers right mostly. Ran out of a snow line maybe 150ft from the ridge. Was sinking to knees/waist trying to traverse and find a line. Pretty rocky on the descent. 

Route: Loveland to Guanella Pass
Posted On: 11/3/2024, By: 14er101
Info: Loveland to Guanella Pass Loveland Pass to Grays is 50/50 snow, not very deep, microspikes were nice but could have gotten by without them. Grays to Guanella was still mostly summer conditions, no need for traction. This is certain to change by next weekend. 

Route: Edwards + McClellan: East Slopes
Posted On: 7/6/2024, By: ejfred
Info: Summited Edwards and McClellan this morning with my teenage son. The road going up towards Waldorf Mine is rough for a Forester, but we made it! Any snowfields on the route are passable and no flotation or traction needed. From there, the hike into the basin has lots of wildflowers and just a few willows! Basically hiked all the way up to the false summit for Edwards, (instead of veering NW towards the Edwards-McClellan saddle). That false summit is very close to the real Edwards. Took some pictures of the many, many folks on Grays, as well as Square Top and Argentine. Then descended the saddle and summited McClellan. Coming down McClellan, we encountered a snowfield that we glissaded down. Wasn't huge, but probably lopped off 15 more minutes of downclimb? All in all, a great day! 

Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 6/29/2024, By: Kelly M
Info: This route was 95% snow free with just 2-3 very small snowfields that were easily crossable without traction. There is a nice wooden bridge that crosses the creek, so there are no concerns when it comes to the creek crossing early in the route. Gorgeous views of Grays and Torreys and only saw a dozen people! 

Route: Edwards + McClellan: East Slopes
Posted On: 10/12/2023, By: joannalee07
Info: Climbed on 10/10, full trip report here: https://www.coloradomountainpack.com/post/mount-edwards 

Route: Mt. Edwards + Argentine Peak from Argentine Pass
Posted On: 9/23/2023, By: backcountrybrodes
Info: A little gusty but beeaaaauutiful day on the mountains. Lotttsss of yellow over by Argentine Pass trailhead (subaruable) and the creek is a white mineral color, which made for some pretty amazing pictures. Saw a mountain goat fam near the Argentine Peak summit, which proceeded to gallop down the mountain face kicking rocks galore after I slowly approached them. Lol 

Route: Edwards + McClellan: East Slopes
Posted On: 7/16/2023, By: dssmith15
Info: The road up to the TH is gnarly. Made the mistake of not taking the turn up to Leavenworth and stayed on Waldorf Wagon Road. We had to back out as the road was washed up then made it up to Leavenworth. Not ideal. Thankfully in a jeep. Definitely need some high clearance. The beginning of the road right off of Guanella Pass is probably the worst if you do stay on Leavenworth after that. Following the river up to the basin was easy. There's still a steep snowfield that you have to ascend. We used microspikes and were fine. It was still supportive without post-holing on our descent around 930am. It would have been fun to glissade if we brought our ice axes but we left those at home. The ridge up to Edwards is clear and easy. We ended up opting out of McClellan but that route is totally clear. Beautiful day all around. Saw one other person. Was fun to watch the ant hill going up Grays and Torreys. Overall very nice hike! 

Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 6/27/2023, By: bsiegs
Info: Trailhead road clear all the way. Several (count them, 11) snowfield crossings remain on the route. Some of them a bit more sketch than others. Crossed them all carefully without traction, but definitely wouldn't have minded having spikes/axe. Definitely a fair bit of postholing in the snowfields. Summit remains totally snow-covered. Started at 5pm on super clear, warm evening. Stunningly beautiful summit sunset around 8:20. Snowfields had obviously turned quite icy on descent. 

Route: From Grays
Posted On: 6/25/2023, By: 14er101
Info: Did the traverse from Grays to Edwards, and then to Argentine as part of the Loveland Pass to Guanella traverse. G-->E traverse was mostly dry except for the final 200' to summit where traction was nice but not strictly necessary. N face couloirs appeared to have full coverage, Edwardian is starting to thin out in some places it looked like, but probably still in. Edwards to Argentine was mostly summer conditions, traction not needed. 

Route: North Face
Posted On: 6/24/2023, By: slawrence2011
Info: Made it to upper th in my Civic with ease. Started from upper th at 4, 2 hours earlier than yesterday, to avoid wet snow issues. I went through a lot of willows again to get to the base, 1:20. This time, I stayed in the couloir, and it was much less Ne facing than when I went too far R yesterday. Took the far left direct variation, which goes for climbing, but not skiing due to runnels, steep, narrow, and off camber. Summited at 730 to nasty wind, didn't stay there long. Waited til 915 to drop but it was still firm all the way. The Crux was the transition from the open snowfield above to the main gully, I did sidestepping between rocks, but only 10-15 ft or so was not skiable. Due to firm snow, I went for a lap on the N face of Torreys as well, perfect conditions on emperor just after noon. A group of 20 went into tuning fork around that time and said it was also good. Both in from the summit and a couple hundred feet shy of the typical May runout. Road totally clear of snow. Torreys summer trail has snow on upper half, but very well trodden, no postholing at 1130. 

Route: North Face
Posted On: 6/23/2023, By: slawrence2011
Info: Did not summit and the juice was not worth the squeeze given a broken ski. That being said, snow coverage looks amazing and will go back tomorrow earlier and with different skis. Left the upper Stevens Gulch TH just before 6, which turned out to be way too late and was my primary issue. The beta on frontrangeskimo.com recommends following the creek drainage to the base of the couloir. I made a creek crossing to the S side that got both feet wet, later found plenty of snow bridges up higher. The S side of the creek is not ideal due to steepening talus that was loose and frightening and steep snowfields that didn't go in hiking boots. Apron climbed very easy, was quite firm around 7:30-8. Around 8:30-9, got into the upper couloir which transitioned to a NE aspect rather than N, which rapidly became cohesionless. Plus, I made a wrong turn in the couloir too far climber's right trying to follow the beta photo, but that got me too close to the ridge where snow was spotty and did some climbing on rock. I turned around probably a couple hundred feet below the summit due to a complete lack of cohesion, postholing to the waist. Started skiing down just before 10, and knocked off the biggest wet loose I have this season, about a ski width and 4-6 inches deep, it actually tried to pull me down but I held tight. Then I skied in that track and it was much safer. About 10 turns in, my ski broke and the front of the binding detached completely, managed to stop it with my pole. Quickly transitioned back to skis on pack and got ice axe out and plunge stepped all the way down very soft snow, given too soft and steep to glissade, exposed to rocks and no way to self arrest/stop. Glissaded last 100 feet. On the way out, I tried to beeline straight uphill to the main trail, which involved a lot of willow bashing and soft snow crossing. Then about 30 minutes back down the trail. Tomorrow I will try close to the N side of the creek. 

Route: Edwardian Couloir
Posted On: 6/20/2023, By: TakeMeToYourSummit
Info: A friend & I went for the Edwardian on Sunday & we were not disappointed! We managed to boot up on variable snow from the apron the entire way to the summit (with a bit of rock mixed in near the top). The snow was punchy at points and rather firm in other places. A summit descent was possible by either weaving through some of the rock bands & entering the Edwardian or we also saw one couloir lookers right that looked continual from the top. We had spied a variant of the Edwardian that avoided most of the frozen avy debris (see marked picture borrowed from sarahmariekirk). Our variant would be hard to link from the summit as you need to stay high in the couloir near the start (we dropped packs at the rocky start of the ridge). I can add more photos later if anyone needed to see other pics (not much has changed since the last report though). Also - full snowless road to the TH. Thanks again Sarah for the CR that got this one back on my radar! 

Route: Edwardian Couloir
Posted On: 6/10/2023, By: sarahmariekirk
Info: Beautiful day on Edwardian Couloir; this col has been on my list for awhile and it was a great day for a climb. There is quite a lot of hard avalanche debris in the couloir which can make it difficult if you are planning to ski down. I am a climber and not a skier, so we took the standard descent down off of Edwards after tagging McClellan Mountain and it was pretty spicy with steep snow fields to traverse in multiple no-fall zones. I would recommend crampons if you are planning a descent via standard.