8/8/2024 Route: North Ridge Posted On: 8/9/2024, By: supranihilest Info: From Sleeping Sexton's east ridge we found a northern grass slope to depart the ridge on. We followed it under some cliffs then scrambled up a steep Class 3 grass gully through the cliff and up to a bench. From this bench it was about a mile of minor ups and downs crossing grass and talus under the east side of 13,048. We met up with the Buckskin Pass trail and ascended to the pass since we figured that was easier. From the pass we headed due south towards the peak. The summit cliffs looked formidable but really weren't bad. We went straight to the base of the wall then went right until we could climb a Class 3 block and crack system about a body length and a half high, which led to Class 2/Class 2+ slopes then to a neat Class 2 ridge. The final summit block had an obvious broken block to scramble up to a short chimney on. I used the squeeze chimney formed by the clock which was a few moves of awkward Class 4 wriggling, Whiley used climber's right side of the block at Class 3. The chimney itself is Class 3. Pretty much all of the scrambling on this peak is delightfully solid and fun. We reversed back to the pass and tackled Buckskin Benchmark next. |
|
7/17/2021 Route: From Buckskin BM or Bucksin Pass Posted On: 7/17/2021, By: WildWanderer Info: This is a class 4 summit. (my research put it at class 2, and that's not the case). The initial gully has had a slide, so stay left (east) at the lower crux to avoid the slide area, then ascend the ridge. The last 25 feet or so to the summit is class 4. Bring a helmet and sense of adventure. Otherwise, summer conditions. |
