Unnamed 13173

Route: F couloir up, NW couloir ski
Posted On: 4/29/2024, By: SnowAlien
Info: My main goal for the day were the 2 13ers, since the weather was expected after 12pm. However, on the summit of Triangle, the weather still looked great. The clouds were starting to form, but they were building very slowly and were still far, so I had time for another peak. From hiking it in the fall, I knew that UN 13,173 was not a trivial peak. That day I had strong winds from the north, and my options were limited to the south side. I remembered a long talus slog from Triangle bypassing an unranked ridge bump, then struggling to find a good way up. Everything was loose and steep. This morning, en route to the first UN 13er, the north facing couloirs stood out to me, and while short and aesthetic, they didn't look easy. I vaguely remembered from 2008 TR by SarahT that's what they climbed. I also remembered the summit ridge to be very exposed and loose, but also the side towards UN 13,559 being quite a bit easier than the way I came up in the fall. So after skiing down and around from Triangle peak I considered my options on the north side. The main line looked steep, with the bulge in the middle, and the apron was full of "chicken heads" - icy chunks. The more mellow line to the lookers left (aka the F couloir named by SarahT - it's funny how these old TRs still hold value) looked to have better snow and I initially thought was closer to the true summit. So F couloir it is! Around 12pm, the north facing couloir was still frozen, with sun just starting to warm it up. Everything went well until the ridge when the aspect changed to more east facing and the snow got unsupportive. At least it was a short posthole to the summit. Except it was the false summit, with the true one still across the exposed ridge. I decided to leave my skis on the flat(tish) section of the ridge in case the ridge traverse takes too long. But still not trusting the flat section, I stuck my skis vertically in the snow, and set out to the true summit across the very exposed snow covered ridge, scouting other ski options. The traverse proved to be easier than it looked and soon I was on the tiny summit. I carefully reversed my steps back to the skis. I *could* ski the F couloir, but it was further down the ridge and I was concerned about the soft, east-facing upper section above the coulor, as the time was closer to 1pm. Alternatively, I could try to ski the line just below, which looked steep and aesthetic, but I knew the apron had icy chunks. After some pep talk, I convinced myself that it was doable. My other concern was the condition of the snow - was it still firm or was it starting to warm up? But looked like the sun has been on it for an hour or so. I carefully side slipped through the narrow, rocky entrance, just wide enough for my short skis. I soon discovered that the skiers' right side was warmed up, while the left side was still firm and icy. After a few carefully executed jump turns I arrived at the bulge/crux section, which was still in the shade and firmly frozen. I carefully side slipped through and commenced the jump turns until the apron. I was able to navigate around the imperfect snow, finally arriving at the smooth corn section below it. Whew! That was a short, but exciting line. Right on cue, the clouds started to move in, and I enjoyed skiing perfect corn across the basin right back to my camp by the hot springs. I couldn't leave without another long soak in the hot springs, which I thoroughly enjoyed. I procrastinated since I was dreading the ski out through the forest full of wild animals and on soggy snow. Alas, it was time to head back out to the trailhead. Since the skintrack from the prior days was the only firm(ish) snow in the basin, the animals seemed to appreciate it. About 500 feet down the trail, I ran into very recent bear tracks! Well, at least he wasn't camping with me by the hot springs. And I lost track of how many cat prints were on the skin track. At least on the way back, I managed to navigate the snow bridges correctly and the further slips in the raging creek were successfully avoided. 

Route: 13162 B->Castleabra loop via Conundrum Hot Springs
Posted On: 8/31/2023, By: JasonKline
Info: From the Conundrum Hot Springs campsites, we did the Coffeepot Pass->13162 B->13550->Castleabra loop. Still summer conditions. Like everybody else has said, the descent down the west ridge of Castleabra really sucks. It's about 2,600 vertical feet of the steep, loose junk in the attached picture taken from near the hot springs. I apologize again to Rachel for suggesting adding on Castleabra. If you do the west ridge, it would probably be much more pleasant for those who like to do snow climbs. Also, from 13550 to Castleabra, we dropped east down into Cumberland Basin and ascended the gully just south of the true summit of Castleabra. The last 200 vertical feet or so of the gully were really tough to gain (steep, solid dirt with no good footholds). 

Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 7/12/2023, By: supranihilest
Info: I don't have a vehicle capable of driving the Pearl Pass Road so I started at "tent city" where the bathroom and end of the 2WD road is. This added over 12 miles (more than half the total distance) and something like 2,200 vert round trip hiking on the road. If hiking to Twin Lakes trailhead there are three mandatory, knee deep creek fords. Twin Lakes trail is excellent unlike nearby Cumberland Basin, but note that if you actually want to see the lakes you have to make a point of going there. The trail doesn't go directly to them and I had already hiked past before realizing. The scree and talus slope to the ridge looks like it would be awful, and it's certainly loose, but nowhere near as bad as I expected. One short snowfield crossing on the ridge. Some scrambling on loose and crumbly rock up to Class 3. Plenty of baked hardpan-like dirt up there too, be very mindful of footing - a slip could send you over a cliff. Upper ridge is very narrow and relatively exposed but only Class 2+ and quite fun. Descended into the basin the way I came and then traversed the ridge to Point 12,934, which I highly recommend. Lots of sustained Class 2+ to Class 3 scrambling on this ridge, rock is fairly rotten but this 12er adds a ton of value to the hike. I descended steep grass back into the basin north of the 12er. No snow gear needed (unless you want microspikes for the hardpan, but that's also not necessary), I did these two in trail runners. 

Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 9/21/2020, By: Flyingfish
Info: Dry, I stayed on the ridge crest from 13550 till the unranked point then dropped about 200 feet and traversed below on the south side.