"Siberia Peak"

Route: East Face via Lead King Basin
Posted On: 9/27/2022, By: supranihilest
Info: A super fun scramble by most standards, especially Elk standards. From Lead King Basin take the Geneva Lake trail, then follow it when signs point to campsites 4 and 5. The trail goes basically all the way to Siberia Lake. We didn't go that far, instead taking a very obvious grassy bench to the bottom of "Siberia Peak"'s southeast ridge. We then scrambled up a vast amount of Class 2+ and Class 3 on markedly solid white granite, which overall was a joy to scramble on. The scrambling funneled us towards a deep, wide gully that splits "Siberia"'s east face in twain, scrambling along the edge until we were perhaps 100-200 feet below the ridge, before scrambling down a short section into the gully to gain some grassy ledges and ramps that crossed the face horizontally. We made an ascending traverse across these to the summit ridge, being careful of more loose rock on this half of the face, and then made an airy Class 3 scramble along the summit ridge to the summit on questionable looking but strong feeling blocks and jagged shards. Nonetheless, test EVERYTHING on this peak, it is in the Elk after all. We basically reversed our route exactly, with exception of a short section where we down climbed the large gully to a different break in the cliffs allowing us back onto the southern half of the face. 

Route: NE face from Avalanche lake
Posted On: 7/28/2021, By: SnowAlien
Info: Camped at the lake, and then ascended the NE slopes/East ridge. From the ridge traversed to the couloir between false and true summits. Lots of unstable talus and lots of ankle breaking opportunities. Ridge from the saddle becomes Class 4, reminiscent of S ridge on Snowmass (but very short) 

Route: East face to south ridge
Posted On: 7/19/2021, By: CaptainSuburbia
Info: Had no beta on this peak. We started at Siberia Lake and went straight up the east face. Beginning was a talus hop until we hit a class 4 line that took us to the upper ridge. The summit was not far after reaching the upper ridge, but it took awhile to go through a series of notches. The last big one we had to downclimb to the east quite a bit to avoid class 5. We descended back along the upper ridge, through the notches again and then went down the southeast ridge which was much easier than the class 4 line we ascended. We reached the summit at noon after leaving Snowmass Summit at 8:30. Back to Lead King trailhead at 3:30. 

Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 10/28/2020, By: tdawg012
Info: Brisk fall breeze from Geneva Lake onwards, summer conditions below 13k with 1" snow max in gullies/couloirs and some NE granite slabs near the ridge top. Traverse over to Meadow mountain was snow-free (via meadows and slopes above Snowfield lake) but burns the legs+lungs in smokey air! Not long before these carefree fall galivants turn wintry... 

Route: East Face
Posted On: 9/11/2017, By: Grover
Info: Reached the summit of Siberia Peak via the East Face route. You'll need solid route finding skills if using this route. There is no standard way, so you make it up as you go up and down. I was constantly looking up and planning out the next moves before leaving a secure spot. I used a steep grass ramp after passing the north end of Siberia Lake to reach the initial grass slopes above the lake. Upon reaching the solid rock face section, I used the 'spine' between the two gullies, then traversed to the right (north) when it made sense, to avoid the notch and spires on the ridge.