Route: Loft Couloir Posted On: 6/26/2023, By: jfm3 Info: I climbed "Southeast Longs" and Mt. Meeker via the Loft on June 25. I didn't go over to the true summit of Longs. Still a lot of snow up there. I put on crampons at Chasm Lake and didn't take them off until I was back at the lake on the descent. I saw two people who skied down Lamb's Slide. The snow on the Loft was cold and crunchy. The snow on the ledge that exits the couloir was fairly icy, due to the water ice that is thawing and flowing off the cliffs above. It was more like climbing on a glacier than a snowfield. There is a good track but it's steep and some places are harder to kick steps than others. The snow up Southeast Longs is mostly cold and firm, though I did break through a few times. The slope was steeper than I expected and it ends very suddenly at the top, with a big drop down to the Notch immediately off the top. There was a rap ring bolted into one of the top rocks, and a sling anchored nearby. |
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Route: Loft Posted On: 6/18/2016, By: spiderman Info: Easy approach to Chasm Lake. It is possible to stay mostly on rock bands until the traverse across the snowfield that leads to the exit ramps. It is steep at that point, and slushy by mid-day. We brought crampons, ice axes, and protected the traverse with a picket. More seasoned snow climbers were crossing with just microspikes and an ice axe. The angle is ~40 degrees at that point. Above the Loft, the route is 90% rock and 10% snow. |
