Windom Peak

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/18/2024, By: jacobslaton
Info: Climbed Sunlight and Windom on July 12. Conditions were great. Very little snow other than one small patch not far from twin lakes. No traction needed. The approach to the Sunlight ridge was dusty and loose, but not terrible. On Windom, we saw several groups descending via one of the gullys on the east side, which they said they regretted once they were down due to loose rocks and overall steepness. Some cairns in that area likely need to be demolished. The standard route on the ridge is solid and fairly easy to navigate with good cairns throughout. The lakes serve as a good water source, but there is also a trickle of snowmelt that runs through the valley between Sunlight and Windom where you can refill bottles if needed. Below the lakes, water is plentiful and easy to access. In the basin, mosquitos and biting flies were bad so be prepared for those. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/1/2024, By: tlinkus
Info: Most snow of all the peaks, that being said, we were able to summit without crampons, ice axe, or spikes. Can either go straight up lower snowfields to saddle or navigate through snow-free rocky areas. Only one real snowfield up high that was probably about 10ft and could be bypassed with a little scrambling. Overall would recommend spikes if not comfortable crossing snow, but definitely not mandatory. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 10/23/2023, By: awestra
Info: Windom, Eolus / N Eolus, Sunlight from Purgatory Flats
On 10/22, windom had snow between rocks on north slope (see pic). Gaiters would've been nice but managed by rock-hopping.
Sunlight standard route was dry.
Eolus had only a couple tiny spots of snow, did not need traction 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 9/26/2023, By: JasonCrane
Info: Note - I summited Sunlight & wasn't able to grab Windom. The north face of Windom has a decent amount of snow below the West Ridge route. Those gullies look to be filled in for the season. From a distance, if you view Windom from Eolus, the south face is a stark contrast of dry rock versus the snowy north face. Looks like a line drawn along the ridge separating the two. 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 9/24/2023, By: andlours
Info: Snow started above 13k near the climb to the saddle. A lot of it could be avoided with rock hopping, but micro spikes were really helpful near the summit. 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 9/3/2023, By: Briere
Info: Full summer conditions still; one very minor snow crossing by the lake but no traction or anything is needed. 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 9/3/2023, By: bryanf
Info: Met up with the West Ridge route at the saddle between Windom and Peak 18, after shortcutting laterally across the basin from the bottom of the Sunlight chute. From this point up, the route is straightforward and easy until the notch. From the notch onwards, you must be very careful with route-finding. I think more careful than the class dictates, as the ridge is actually quite thin and it's easy to get too low. On the way down, we scrambled down the boulder field of the main route to meet up with the Sunlight-Windom fork. This section was mixed thin scree and boulders. No snow on this route depending on how you make your way from the fork to the saddle. 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 8/19/2023, By: Snommed1
Info: Windom/Sunlight...90% summer conditions. One snowfield to cross (~50yd, see picture) with no easy go-around. If this is still frozen solid from overnight, can be a sketchy traverse. Easy crossing once the snow has softened.
Mosquitoes have abated in Chicago Basin. None to speak of. Not a lot of Needle Creek water access points up to Chicago Basin if you had planned to filter water along the way. Wear sunscreen. 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 7/26/2023, By: nrobsaihttam
Info: Entered Sunday, left Tuesday 7/25. Awesome hike, bugs were tolerable in the basin. No need for spikes on the couple hundred feet of snow patches for Windom/Sunlight if you just use your hiking poles and follow footprints. About 20-something people went into the basin each day. Campsites weren't too hard to find. One of the coolest 14er experiences yet. 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 7/17/2023, By: 815WM
Info: Started from Vallecito Creek TH on 7/13 and camped in Chicago Basin on 7/14. The next day, the 15th, I started at 4:30am and soloed all four 14ers: Eolus - North Eolus - Sunlight - Windom. I summited the last peak at 12:30 pm on a perfectly clear bluebird day. None of the peaks have snow on the summit ridges. You still need to climb a bit of snow to gain each saddle. You can get away with just poles or an axe, but I still highly recommend spikes. The most(and steepest) snow field is still encountered gaining the ridge for Eolus. I met a group as I was coming back down from Windom that summited Eolus and N Eolus without spikes or poles! Sunlight and Windom still required snowfield crossings as well. I was glad I had my spikes and poles but these two are easier if you don't have the gear. After summiting the grand slam, I took a nap back in the basin before packing out over Columbine pass and all the way down to Vallecito Creek for a total of just over 18 miles on the day. 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 7/8/2023, By: colekics
Info: Started from Purgatory TH and camped in Chicago Basin. The next day, the 6th, Three other guys and I hit up all four 14ers: Sunlight -> Windom -> North Eolus -> Eolus. Essentially, none of the peaks have snow on the summit ridges. You just need to climb a bit of snow to gain each saddle. You can get away with just poles or an axe, multiple guys in our group never used spikes but they can add comfort. Started moving at 3:30 but coming down from Windom saddle around 8:15, the snow began to soften just enough to glissade. Then the snow was softer going up to the Eolus saddle, and once we came down we got some really great glissading in. The most snow climbing exists going up the Eolus saddle. We also found a fully packed pack on the ridge direct of Eolus, so if someone left it please let me know. Just a reminder: STAY ON THE STANDARD ROUTES. We were climbing Sunlight when we watched a group of five people try to climb the FACE of windom from the saddle between Windom and Sunlight Spire. They were just in spikes, trying to cross 60 degree side hill hard snow to reach a continuous rocky outcropping to the top. I thought I was about to watch them slide into a rocky runout and we'd have to call SOS. They then proceeded to climb loose, steep Class 5 rock to the top. We met them at the top of Windom and talked to them. Just make sure to follow your GPS up there, know which saddles to gain in order to climb safely. Pictures will be on the Sunlight post. 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 7/17/2023, By: chrisbroyles
Info: My group of five climbed Windom Peak (14,089 ft) on July 3rd starting at 5 am from Chicago Basin near 12,000 feet. After getting to Twin Lakes, we traversed intermittent snow using crampons for almost a mile before ascending a snow slope upward for about 300 feet. We needed crampons and ski poles to make this steep snow climb to the saddle. Snow conditions were on par with early June. From the saddle (13,450 feet), we ascended class 2 rock up to a second but smaller saddle near 13,800 feet. The route becomes considerably steep above the second saddle (solid class 3), and my son made the remark that it reminded him of the climbing gym back home. The remaining 300 feet is practically all class 3 climbing. There is no way to make it without pulling up with your hands. In fact, information online suggests that this route on Windom Peak is difficult class 2. In our view, which is in agreement with several other climber posts, this route should be rated class 3. We thought the route was slightly more difficult than the class 3 southwest ridge route on Mount Sneffels (14,155 ft). In addition, it can be easy to move up slightly to the right of the main climber's ridge at 13, 700 feet, quickly exposing yourself to Class 3+ rock. I thought this route was going to be easy, but I was surprised at the unexpected difficulty. For that reason, I wasn't quite mentally prepared to make the climb. If you are going this route, prepare for a more difficult climb than what is suggested online, especially for safety reasons. If your goal is to stay on Class 2 routes due to your climbing ability, then I would suggest avoiding Windom Peak. 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 7/4/2023, By: mjordan
Info: Summited all 4 peaks on July 1st starting with Windom.

The lake was still 90% frozen. Snow starts at the lake but the 1.5 miles up from Chicago Basin is clear.

I only used micro spikes and trekking poles. A lot of people had crampons and ice axes but after this weekend I think thats overkill and not worth the extra weight.

From the saddle up its totally dry and straight forward climbing on the ridge. 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 6/20/2023, By: tjvanfossen
Info: Very little snow on approach to Twin Lakes, no traction needed up to there. Near continuous snow from lakes to summit block if you so choose. We just picked a line and went with the direct-to-summit option. Low 40s slope angle max. Cannot speak to the ridge proper other than hearing that it comfortably goes with spikes only until you hit snow toward the summit. Final summit block is mostly bare rock. Axe and crampons recommended, but can probably leave snowshoes at home (although may become post-holey as things warm up). 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 5/18/2023, By: Kya Cav
Info: Chicago Basin 5/11/23-5/13/23
Dry trail about 3.5-4 miles in. Then solid snow coverage rest of the way up. We camped at 11,000 feet and basically at the end of the flat valley. All peaks still in for summit ski decents but will definitely fade away after a week or so of sunny skies. Go getr done!