11/14/2017 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 11/16/2017, By: ScreeSurfer Info: Purgatory trail and Animas River trail are completely dry to Needle creek. Needle creek trail is mostly dry until around 10000ft where you encounter 2-5" of snow (crusty in the morning, softer later in the day). A few short sections of ice where water runs down the trail. Patches of shallow snow from the basin up to Twin Lakes. Average of 6" of snow to the Eolus, N. Eolus saddle but you can do some rock hopping. Catwalk is dry and I ascended the Northeast Ridge direct as it was mostly dry. I descended to the catwalk along the standard route and some of the ledges had knee deep snow. N.Eolus was mostly dry. Twinlakes basin contained 6-8" of snow, Sunlight summit was dry. Midway traverse to Windom/Peak 18 saddle had 6-8" of snow and the upper ridge to Windom Peak was mostly dry. I did not use any traction with relatively warm conditions. |
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9/13/2017 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 9/15/2017, By: chicagostylehotdog Info: Clear weather all day on Wednesday. Routes were dry on Eolus, N. Eolus, Windom, and Sunlight, with the exception of a tiny amount of snow blocking the trail between the lakes and the headwall leading to Windom and Sunlight. Thursday was good weather until noon when the clouds started spitting at us. Driving out Thursday afternoon you could see the storm rolling in. Ominous black clouds. With snow in the forecast, we may have seen the last of the dry, summer conditions in Chicago Basin. Only saw 3 goats, all together around 12,000' on the trail. One was digging at a wet spot where somebody had probably peed. Please keep your peeing off trail and on rocks so the goats don't destroy vegetation or the trail. Bagged all 4 14ers in Chicago basin in 9.5h camp to camp (camped at 11k). Leaves are starting to turn. |
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9/5/2017 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 9/9/2017, By: kayleenann8 Info: Trail is dry and clear. There are an insane number of cairns on Eolus. Use your own judgment for route finding. |
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9/2/2017 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 9/5/2017, By: STIBungy Info: The catwalk was dry. That loose block is still up there. We tried to scratch an X on it. I stepped on it on the way up and down and it does move but feels pretty solid. I guess it'd catch you off guard if not expecting it. There are 2 small snowfields to cross on the way up to Twin Lakes. Just keep your weight over your feet and you'll be fine crossing as there are flat tracks in place. |
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8/15/2017 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 8/18/2017, By: jmanner Info: As previously stated there is a large block on the catwalk which is no longer attached to it's brethren. There are a fair amount of small rocks marking it. Keep a look out for it, it is about two thirds the way to Eolus on the catwalk. Otherwise the route is dry and fun. |
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7/22/2017 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 8/7/2017, By: Abominabl31 Info: Loose Boulders Present On The Catwalk Route: Be aware that in addition to the usual risk of dislodging loose San Juan stone, there is one particularly loose boulder near the middle of the catwalk section - I call it out because it's a large, flat stone about the size of a coffee table which looks very enticing to step across. However just putting a hand on it I was able to feel it move a few inches. I worry what would happen if one stepped or stood to the South (Chicago Basin) side of that stone! Especially since its fall is over the ramp and gulch trail areas below. Sorry I don't have a picture, but be watchful where you step on the catwalk in general. Also, as always, be mindful of loose rock throughout the summit area - especially on the final ascent to Eolus summit after the catwalk. Overall, I made the summit on 7/22 and found the conditions pretty great beyond rockfall risk. There was some slushy snow, but I didn't feel a need for any traction device beyond my trail runners. Happy trails! |
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7/14/2017 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 7/19/2017, By: metalmountain Info: There is still some snow to contend with going up the basin below Eolus, and also below the ridge between Eolus and North Eolus. We saw folks managing without traction or axes, but we were happy to have axes with us. |
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7/5/2017 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 7/7/2017, By: glenmiz Info: Snow in basin up to base of ramp. Ramp is dry but there's a snowfield above the ramp to below the rocks/saddle. Early, the snow was firm with steps and snow cups so crampons weren't necessary. Coming down about 9am the snow was soft and slippery and I put the crampons on and had my axe out. Face is dry except for one snow patch which isn't a problem to go below (I did on the way up, but ended up coming down a slightly different path and having to go through it - not recommended). |
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7/2/2017 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 7/5/2017, By: Stiffler_from_Denver Info: Still a lot of snow fields to cross on the standard route to Eolus. Micro spikes aren't necessary but an ice axe is highly recommended, particularly for the descent. We witness a few groups that were glissading without axes, lost control narrowly avoiding rocks and were lucky to not get injured. |
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6/27/2017 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 6/29/2017, By: pmeadco Info: DaveB's assessment is spot on. Standard snow for this time of year. I didn't climb it this trip, but here is a picture from Windom. |
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6/25/2017 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 6/25/2017, By: daveb Info: Eolus has quite abit of snow from lake to saddle but after that all rock. Doable in trail runners but easier with crampons. Axe recommended. windom and sunrise you can skirt the snow or walk on if it's early. |
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9/16/2016 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 9/20/2016, By: GA_peach Info: Did Sunlight, Windom and Eolus last Friday under clear skies that lasted all day. Sunlight and Eolus were completely clear on the standard routes but snow from a storm on 9/14 had the north side of Windom dusted well. Everyone was able to make it with no gear and after several days of sun in the area it may be all gone by now. But there is rain down there this morning (9/20) so this may change. |
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7/30/2016 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 7/31/2016, By: Doctor No Info: Scattered snow up high, but nothing anywhere remotely close to the route. |
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7/8/2016 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 7/10/2016, By: Daytona500 Info: All of the Chicago Basin routes are basically snow free and require no extra traction or gear. Wild flowers, wildlife, and views are bountiful. |
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6/29/2016 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 7/3/2016, By: thebeave7 Info: Ascended the NE ridge from North Eolus. Ridge is clear and no snow on top. I climbed up to the tarn between North Eolus and Glacier Point via the obvious couloir from Twin Lakes from the high basin. Snow was continuous on 6/29, but getting thin and soft for the last 200ft at the top and might be melted out by now. Snow in the basin between North Eolus and Glacier Point was bottomless much with knee to waist deep postholing. The standard approach to Eolus from the Twin Lakes junction had some snow in the lower basin below the SE face. Both approach slopes to the high basin and ridgeline between Eolus/N Eolus were solid snow. I used microspikes and ice axe, some may prefer crampons. These slopes make for a good glissade. Sorry no photos. |
