6/21/2021 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 6/25/2021, By: Will_Quillman Info: Summer conditions completely once on the saddle. Used spikes and gaiters on a small portion prior to the saddle, but not necessary.. see post on North Eolus. Really fun class 3 climb, lots of fun route finding and if you are down for it, some class 4 off route fun. Hiked Eolus after summiting North Eolus, took us an hour to make the summit push, topped out around 8am and made it back to the basin in 2ish hours around 10am. |
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6/18/2021 Route: Chicago Basin Approach Posted On: 6/22/2021, By: catfish hank Info: Conditions changing fast. Snow axe not necessary unless you wish to have a better glissade experience. Would still bring micro spike or crampons as preference not necessity. As steepness can be avoided poles will work fine. Its nice to get off the trail and into the snow field to get elevation when approach ramp and then the saddle. if you stay on the main trail it is overrun with mushed out snow where the snow meets the rock. The heart of the snow field is semi sun cupped but will support as is consolidated. As usual early start recommended as sun hit comes on fast. Will add photos tomorrow. |
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10/5/2020 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 10/8/2020, By: mickknu16 Info: Bluebird week in Chicago basin! Incredible conditions for October, no traction needed. The winds of Aeolus cleared the smoke out this week for us, but it rolled in this morning thick as we were packing out. Small fire at Purgatory was a big cause. Fall colors are in full swing. Get it while it's clear! |
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8/22/2020 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 8/24/2020, By: jryor121 Info: Started from Needle Creek at 2:40 AM. made it up the dry trail all the way up to Twin Lakes. the rocks up to the summit were fine, and the scramble up to North Eolus, as well as to Eolus was dry and bomber the whole time. Made it to North Eolus for the sunrise (6:30), and after a small break we made it to Eolus by 7:25. This was just the start of the day.. https://www.strava.com/activities/3955220004 |
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8/21/2020 Route: Northeast Ridge Direct Posted On: 8/22/2020, By: Clint the climber Info: We stayed ridge direct the entire time. I believe roach calls this class 4 but in reality it's solid class 3 at best. It's a super fun ridge and I'd highly recommend it. We descended the standard route which was super chill. |
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7/13/2020 Route: Ridge Direct Posted On: 7/15/2020, By: Unknown Info: From Twin Lakes the standard trail is intact for a little while, and then a new CFI trail curves climbers left and loops up to the rock rib shown in description. Snow most of the way. Ridge direct was easiest for me, descended standard to catwalk. Tagged N Eolus afterwards which had awesome coral type rock |
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7/11/2020 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 7/13/2020, By: Sbenfield Info: Summer |
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7/9/2020 Route: Chicago Basin Approach Posted On: 7/11/2020, By: s mckinney10 Info: Hiked in from the Purgatory trailhead. Everything was in full summer conditions. There are a couple small snowfields to cross, but no traction is required for the ascent or descent. Lots of marmots and goats in the basin and around the twin lakes. |
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7/4/2020 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 7/8/2020, By: emily_m Info: Route was almost entirely snow free. There is a small bit of unavoidable snow at the base of the ramp, but no traction or an axe needed. To gain the ridge there are a couple small snowfields, but these can be avoided without much difficulty. However, later in the day some of the rock slabs near the snow can be a little wet and slippery from the melt water. The final pitch up Eolus has cairns everywhere, but they all seemed to mark acceptable and well traveled routes up. |
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6/29/2020 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 6/29/2020, By: ifyem Info: Approached from Purgatory Flats TH on Thursday, 6/28. Chitown Basin is very quiet currently except for several aggressive marmots; don't leave anything unattended that you can't afford to lose! Climbed Eolus and North Eolus on Friday, 6/26. Snow was mostly avoidable except at the bottom of the ramp, otherwise mid-July conditions. Used an ice axe but not essential. Climbed Sunlight and Windom on Saturday, 6/27. The gully to the Sunlight ridge is almost completely melted out, totally dry the rest of the way to the summit. Traversed to Windom via the snowfield, no crampons or even spikes are necessary. Ice axe was helpful. RT length was 45 miles in 72 hours. Pic 1: Final stretch of Sunlight Pic 2: Traverse to Windom Pic 3: Sunlight and Windom from N. Eolus Pic 4: Sunlight gully Pic 5: Summit ridge of Eolus |
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6/13/2020 Route: Chicago Basin Approach Posted On: 6/16/2020, By: jahselassie Info: My buddies summited all four this past weekend. I don't think they'll post here. I wasn't with them, I only have the info they shared. Purgatory approach. Ice axe/traction recommended but “nothing crazy.†Ok update. Got more info/pics from the homie. I have a video of the route up Sunlight, but it wouldn't accept my screenshot of the route. Feel free to pm if you have questions. |
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10/5/2019 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 10/6/2019, By: TieDye Info: Sunlight: S Face still totally dry. Windom: Fresh snow dustings are starting to stick around on the portions of the trail on the NW Face which lie in the northern shadow. Was fine without traction but watch your step. These snow dustings are accumulating on the NW Face and on top of the leftover snowfields. Went straight up a snowfield to the W Ridge instead of dropping all the way down. Fine in trail runners in the afternoon. Eolus: Similar to Windom, fresh snow dustings are starting to stick around on the ESE Face where the trail drops down from the ridge. No traction necessary around 6 PM. Watch your step. N Eolus: Totally dry. The snowfields from this past winter aren't going anywhere. All manageable without equipment at the times I was on them (times listed for reference). Everything else dry (approach, catwalk, whatever doesn't get caught in shadows all day). Still overwhelmingly summer conditions. Get it while you can! Overnighters said it got down to 17 F at whatever elevation that is Friday night into Saturday. Purgatory TH - 710 AM Animas River bridge at Wilderness border - 930 AM Twin Lakes - 1200 PM (15 minute lunch) Sunlight - 215 PM Windom - 400 PM Twin Lakes - 510 PM Eolus - 635 PM N Eolus - 705 PM Twin Lakes - 800 PM Animas River bridge at Wilderness border - 1045 PM Purgatory TH - 240 AM 41 mi, 11.1k vert, 19:30 TH to TH |
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9/6/2019 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 9/9/2019, By: bludwig Info: This will be a copy/paste for all four of the Chicago Basin peaks: There is some snow by Twin Lakes on the route to Windom/Sunlight, it is hard and no traction required. The flies/mosquitoes are pretty bad and pretty aggressive. Although, the cold nights may start killing them off. Because of the very unpredictable weather in the Weminuche, I wanted to include my rough split times between the mountains so you can determine how to break them up. Doing all four in a day can be very difficult due to the temperamental weather. Order: Windom, Sunlight, Eolus, North Eolus. I recommend doing North last since it is very easy to bail out on if needed and recommend Windom first because route finding in the dark is straight forward. From campsite (11,000 feet) to Windom: 2.5 hours Windom to Sunlight: 1.5 hours Sunlight summit to Eolus turnoff: 1 hour Catwalk turnoff to Eolus: 40 minutes Eolus summit to catwalk turn: 40 minutes Catwalk to North Eolus summit: 7 minutes North Eolus summit to campsite: ~2 hours |
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8/19/2019 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 8/20/2019, By: Flyingfish Info: Dry all the way to the top |
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8/13/2019 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 8/18/2019, By: gabsimonelouise Info: Small (10 feet wide?) snow field to cross just before saddle between Eolus and N. Eolus. Easy to navigate with one pole and tennis shoes; really glad I had the pole though! Would've been a nuisance to slip and have to climb back up, but not life-threatening. Arrived in Chicago Basin via Purgatory Flats, the entire 17 miles was in excellent shape! |
