Mt. Eolus

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 8/13/2023, By: ericd01
Info: Diesel train running (departs 0815). At whistle-stop midday, so its a 3-hr hot haul up to Chicago Basin. Upper trail has water sources making Twin Lakes a convenient decision point. Trail has some big rock steps, cairns lead to a green chute, able to bypass snow, and catwalk is solid. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/31/2023, By: PeakMiller
Info: We hiked in from Purgatory and spent three days out in Chicago Basin. We did the 14ers and Jupiter. All routes were dry besides some small snow patches by the lakes. No ice axe/traction needed. We did see a lot of gear scattered around the ledges on Eolus (camelbak, clothes, and a ripped up hyperlite pack). We didn't have enough space in our packs to bring it all down. Not sure what the story was with all gear, kind of eerie. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/23/2023, By: Logan5280
Info: Hiked from Needleton on 7/21, climbed all 4 on 7/22, and hiked out on 7/23. We started with Windom, which had some slightly challenging route finding in the dark, and one snowfield where spikes are helpful in the dark, before it gets slushy. The windom-sunlight connector has a glissade-able snow field, but it can mostly be done dry. Sunlight is in summer condition, with the exception of a small snowfield near the Windom turn. The Eolus's have a decent size snowfield slightly below the notch, in addition to the ramp near 13.4k being quite wet at the moment. Above the notch is dry. We made the mistake of not traversing the Eolus face enough before ascending, which led to some heads-up climbing. Eolus is no joke. Overall, Chicago Basin is in great condition. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/18/2023, By: jlohmann
Info: We hiked from Purgatory on Sunday, Jul. 16, and summited No Eolus and Mt Eolus on Monday, Jul 17. We crossed several snow fields to reach the ridge between No Eolus and Eolus, two of which were fairly substantial. We started at 2:30 am so they were firm and crossed them with microspikes and ice axe/poles. On return they were soft with post holing. It worked well to follow in the footsteps of others. Route finding on Mt Eolus is challenging. Way too many cairns and footprints to be of any use. Just stay on the east face as recommended by 14ers.com and you'll find lots of good places to ascend/descend. While the weather was pristine clear, it was also hot once the sun rose and the mosquitos and biting flies a constant nuisance along the trails to and from Chicago Basin, not so much at Chicago Basin and above. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/17/2023, By: 815WM
Info: Started from Vallecito Creek TH on 7/13 and camped in Chicago Basin on 7/14. The next day, the 15th, I started at 4:30am and soloed all four 14ers: Eolus - North Eolus - Sunlight - Windom. I summited the last peak at 12:30 pm on a perfectly clear bluebird day. None of the peaks have snow on the summit ridges. You still need to climb a bit of snow to gain each saddle. You can get away with just poles or an axe, but I still highly recommend spikes. The most(and steepest) snow field is still encountered gaining the ridge for Eolus. I met a group as I was coming back down from Windom that summited Eolus and N Eolus without spikes or poles! Sunlight and Windom still required snowfield crossings as well. I was glad I had my spikes and poles but these two are easier if you don't have the gear. After summiting the grand slam, I took a nap back in the basin before packing out over Columbine pass and all the way down to Vallecito Creek for a total of just over 18 miles on the day. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/16/2023, By: ablocki
Info: Looks like there is still a good amount of snow on the last stretch to the catwalk. Did not summit, photo taken from Jupiter 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/8/2023, By: colekics
Info: Started from Purgatory TH and camped in Chicago Basin. The next day, the 6th, Three other guys and I hit up all four 14ers: Sunlight -> Windom -> North Eolus -> Eolus. Essentially, none of the peaks have snow on the summit ridges. You just need to climb a bit of snow to gain each saddle. You can get away with just poles or an axe, multiple guys in our group never used spikes but they can add comfort. Started moving at 3:30 but coming down from Windom saddle around 8:15, the snow began to soften just enough to glissade. Then the snow was softer going up to the Eolus saddle, and once we came down we got some really great glissading in. The most snow climbing exists going up the Eolus saddle. We also found a fully packed pack on the ridge direct of Eolus, so if someone left it please let me know. Just a reminder: STAY ON THE STANDARD ROUTES. We were climbing Sunlight when we watched a group of five people try to climb the FACE of windom from the saddle between Windom and Sunlight Spire. They were just in spikes, trying to cross 60 degree side hill hard snow to reach a continuous rocky outcropping to the top. I thought I was about to watch them slide into a rocky runout and we'd have to call SOS. They then proceeded to climb loose, steep Class 5 rock to the top. We met them at the top of Windom and talked to them. Just make sure to follow your GPS up there, know which saddles to gain in order to climb safely. Pictures will be on Sunlight update. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/4/2023, By: wanderingsteve
Info: Continuous snow from about 13,200 until the ridge. Plan on the snow being hard if youre climbing early. I had spikes and an axe. I dont advise doing this right now without an axe. I wished I had crampons for the ascent, but thats up to you. The Catwalk was dry. Any snow on the ledges can be avoided. Route-finding on the ledges was a challenge. Oftentimes you cant see more than a couple of moves ahead and dont know if theres a viable way forward beyond that. Cairns are very mixed and may lead you astray as they did me. Its much easier on the way down because you can see more of the route. I had a couple good glissades on the way down, but someone the day before me got banged up doing so. I wouldnt glissade before 9:00 or so. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/4/2023, By: mjordan
Info: We summited on July 1st. The trail is snow after about 12,600ft until you get to the Notch. Crossing the ramp was a little sketchy because its a no-fall zone above the cliffs with all the snow still. 4 of us did it with only spikes and trekking poles though around 11am when the snow was soft. So its doable without full winter gear, and after this weekend I dont think it would be worth the extra weight to carry crampons and ice axe. The catwalk is bone dry. But theres a big section of snow right after the catwalk that covers the standard route. You can just drop lower and avoid it, or climb straight up and onto the ridge if youre comfortable with class 4 moves. Id say by the last week in July the snow will be fully gone after the catwalk. Once youre on the ledges it was straight forward climbing. We went steep and direct straight to the summit because it seemed the standard route might have gotten into some snow over closer to the gully. Just a warning: there are cairns everywhere, left and right. You can go in circles following them so I wouldnt rely on them too heavily. You know where the summit is once youre climbing the ledges, just keep going straight up and follow the worn paths. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/4/2023, By: Gpacardella
Info: Saturday, 7/1/23, summitted 4 peaks: Eolus approach basin is loaded with snow and was pretty soft as we descended at 9:00 am. We were happy to have crampons/axes but plenty of people were doing it with spikes/poles. Eolus catwalk and above, no traction necessary. You can avoid all snow and get a ledgy, fun climb. N Eolus totally dry. Sunlight basin South Slopes approach plenty of snow and sucked for us because it was in the afternoon. Obviously earlier the better. Above the saddle on Sunlight no traction needed. Windom West Ridge dry once you attain the saddle traverse from Sunlight. All snow began at Twin Lakes so the approach from camp up to the lakes was dry. Attached pics are: Eolus Catwalk and final push, Eolus/N Eolus Basin and Sunlight/Windom Basin 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 6/20/2023, By: tjvanfossen
Info: Very little snow on approach to Twin Lakes, no traction needed up to there. Continuous snow from lakes to ridge. Axe and crampons recommended, but can probably leave snowshoes at home (although may become post-holey as things warm up). We decided to turn around before the catwalk because the final ridge climb looked questionable with the standard route going in and out of 40-ish deg sloped snow patches and snow was soft by the time we got there after having done Windom and Sunlight first. Not saying it doesn't go, so look at the picture and decide for yourself. Note: The east-facing couloir near the lakes is still a good alternative to the standard route if you get an early start and good freeze. Max slope angle ~45 deg. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 5/18/2023, By: Kya Cav
Info: Chicago Basin 5/11/23-5/13/23 Dry trail about 3.5-4 miles in. Then solid snow coverage rest of the way up. We camped at 11,000 feet and basically at the end of the flat valley. All peaks still in for summit ski decents but will definitely fade away after a week or so of sunny skies. Go getr done! 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/27/2022, By: HikesInGeologicTime
Info: Surprisingly heavy rains last night left snow on grass patches and select rocks above 13k' before the sun had a chance to hit them. While they were largely avoidable, with more wet and cold in the forecast, probably worth noting for anyone else looking to summit the Eoluses and catch the train on the same day. Last night's storm also left anything north facing with enough snow that I would not be surprised if that is a feature, not a bug, for the rest of the year. Last two pics aren't particularly relevant to conditions, but as I've had a handful of unsuccessful summit sunrise attempts before today, getting to watch the sun crest behind Windom from Eolus was probably the coolest moment of my life. I also need to write a poem or a song or something called 'Shadow of Eolus' because I've already got the art for it. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/5/2022, By: shapovalovm
Info: Did the whole CBasin from Purgatory: Day 1: Started at 9:10. Parking was full, so I had to park near the community center (lots of additional parking there). Got to the basin by 2:45. Lots of people! Camped at 11200 Day 2: started 5:10, did 4 peaks, back to camp by 1pm. Started down at 1:30, back to the car by 6:50pm Peaks (in order): 1) Eolus: class 2 to the notch, perfectly cairned, no issues with navigation even in pitch dark. The catwalk is nothing to be afraid of, if you can walk in a straight line (it's like 3-4 feet wide at worst). Scramble up is easy. 2) N Eolus. A tiny baby scramble from the notch. Overall from Eolus it took me 25 min to get there 3) Sunlight: shit shute until 13800, horrible experience. But from there it's a ton of fun. No way it is class 4, though, even the summit block. The fall from there is to the nearest rock which is like 5 feet below. I understand it may be scary to people, but so may be the catwalk, but we don't call it class 4 do we? 4) Windom. Having done 3 peaks, this one felt hard. The views are fantastic though. Also, again, I don't think the rating is right. Haven't seen a single person who managed to summit it with no scrambling above the saddle, so should be class 3. If Sneffels and Kit Carson are class 3, this one definitely must be class 3 as well 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/8/2022, By: zootloopz
Info: Ridge direct! Fun class 4, maybe some low 5th. Summer conditions. Gorgeous day today, lucky weather. On top of North Eolus now. Heading down NW ridge towards Ruby Basin or NY Basin if we can find water. Trail is a river going up to the basin. Expect wet feet and flies. Marmots are aggressive, hide your trekking poles.