Mt. Eolus

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/2/2014, By: pinhead
Info: The snow is gone now from the Eolus group. We were in Chicago Basin Tue, Wed, and Thu when the storm came through. We summited Windom on Wed in thin snow and fog. By Thursday morning, Windom and Eolus were covered in snow down to 13k. But miraculously, it melted off by 2pm on Thurs, even without sun or clearing! So we were able to grab North Eolus late Thurs, and come back for Sunlight and Eolus main on a long sunny day Friday. All the snow is gone from the Windom-Sunlight basin, and the path to Sunlight as well as the traverse to Windom is entirely clear. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 6/29/2014, By: wddjr
Info: Just returned from Chicago Basin. We were able to capture all four summits. There is still significant snow on the Eolus route and on the traverse between Sunlight and Windom. But we started early and hit the snow while it was still solid. I‘d say all four peaks are doable without traction, if you start early. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 6/25/2014, By: kmccormi
Info: Hike up basin from Twin Lakes and NE ramp were covered in snowfields filled with suncups. In the early morning, these firm cups provided relatively good steps to ascend on, though an ice ax was helpful. We also had microspikes but members of our party would probably have felt much safer with crampons. Coming down this snow later in the morning, it was softer and didn't hold as well. Ice ax was even more helpful there. Higher class 3 terrain after the notch, across the catwalk, and to the summit of Eolus was snow-free and straightforward, as well as over to N. Eolus summit. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 5/21/2014, By: freeinthehills
Info: Good snow. rode from summit into couloir to regain chichago basin. lots of snow where you need it but the summit ride won't be in for long 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 9/3/2013, By: Lindyhapa
Info: The climbing conditions were perfect. We were also surprised that there were so few mosquitoes given all of the water around. I saw 2 mosquitoes in 4 days there. We arrived Friday evening and set up camp. Many people who came in after us had trouble finding a camp spot. I expect that it was more crowded than normal being Labor Day weekend though, and there were plenty of campsites lower down in Chicago Basin. On Saturday we climbed Eolus and N. Eolus. Clouds started gathering around 11am and thunderstorms/rain began at 1:30, cutting short our attempt to summit Sunlight the same day. I climbed Sunlight/Windom on Sunday. Clouds began gathering at 11am, but there was no rain or thunderstorms that day. Instead it rained at night. Monday the weather also held all day. Overall, the weather was kind of hard to predict, but winds were almost nonexistent and anyone who was able to peak by noon would‘ve gotten their peak. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/4/2013, By: nyker
Info: Climbed Sunlight & Windom on 7/1 and Eolus & North Eolus on 7/2; conditions on Sunlight, Eolus and North Eolus are snow free on standard routes, if you‘re traversing over to Windom from Sunlight, you will have to cross over a small snowfield or two if you drop down earlier - but they provide no real problem even early morning since they are short and if steps are not kicked in already, poles should get you there fine. No need for an axe or traction IMO. Stream crossings lower down are very easy. Hail and some snow fell up high above 12k on the morning of Jul 2, but nothing accumulated and was short lived (just a bit scary sitting there @ 13k+ waiting out the dark skies and weather!). Marmots and Goats very active below basin - guard your stuff and watch where you pee (goats will follow you). 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 6/11/2013, By: John Prater
Info: The only snow to speak of is the usual slope leading to the ramp. This snow is unavoidable. It‘s probably only 50 feet or so until you can gain the lower, outside edge of the ramp. No snow to deal with on the upper face. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/13/2012, By: cardinal010
Info: The fork from the Sunlight trail is very poorly marked (ie not at all). After crossing the mini creek just below Twin Lakes, you should head a bit to the right (toward Sunlight) rather than left toward Eolus. It's pretty wet on the rock and gravel on the "ramp" leading up toward North Eolus. Be careful here because it's pretty slippery and you'll fall quite a ways if you do. Once you get to the top of the ramp, the route onto the ridge is poorly marked. Just pick a route. The routes on Eolus itself are also completely haphazard, and cairns are not very useful. They criss-cross all over, and again you can follow them for a while and then just pick a path as you see fit and pick up on the next line. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/21/2011, By: Wish I lived in CO
Info: There are some good sized snow fields left in the upper basin (below Eolus). The upper quarter of the basin "trail" is covered up, but the snow can be bypassed. That is until right below the ramp where a 50 or so feet run of snow exists. Though a relatively short section an ice axe not a bad idea there. The ramp itself has quite a bit of meltwater running down it - be careful. Snow is avoidable or nearly avoidable the rest of the way up to the catwalk. Snow free on catwalk. Almost no snow on Eolus itself, avoidable. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/19/2011, By: rockymountaindiva
Info: Limited snow on trail, no crampons needed. Ice ax recommended for one spot just after catwalk. A few other snowfields are small, steps well cut in, or can be avoided entirely. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/7/2011, By: ianbrogden
Info: Still lots of snow on Eolus on July 2nd. Pre-dawn snow was frozen (needed to cut steps), quickly turned soft.