6/23/2023 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 6/23/2023, By: HokieTom Info: This was actually a hike up to Capitol Lake. First, the 4WD road is pretty mild right now. Second, the 3 TD stream crossing is not happening w/o getting wet. Then you have 3 more to do before the Lake. Third, looks like tons of snow before the lake. |
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6/12/2023 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 6/12/2023, By: lang_daly Info: Great mountaineering conditions right now. Highly recommend ice axe and crampons. Creek crossing is a little tricky. Continuous snow starts around 3.5-4 miles in. Some semi-sheltered camping spots around the lake but none of the designated sites are snow free yet as far as I can tell. Knife edge snow free. K2 and several spots on the face of Capitol after leaving the ridge have very steep snow. Tip: If you go left descending from K2, you can get a straighter shot for your glissade, but it's a little steeper. |
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5/28/2023 Route: Area Posted On: 5/28/2023, By: WillRobnett Info: Capitol & Daly |
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5/5/2023 Route: view from below Posted On: 5/6/2023, By: WillRobnett Info: Capitol-left & Daly-right |
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12/26/2022 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 12/26/2022, By: Will_E Info: No summit. I went up a week ago to figure out the creek crossing in daylight (thanks Screesurfer!), then went back last Friday and put in a trench to Moon lake so I wouldn't have to deal with my sucky route finding ability in the dark. Today I made my attempt, but after reaching K2 I just couldn't muster the cojones to proceed on. My trench is much better than usual, I was pretty happy with my route through treeline, made it to Moon Lake in 4.5 hours this morning. No telling if it will survive the weather that is showing to arrive on Wednesday. A few really big trees came down with the wind storm last Thursday, but not difficult to get around. |
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9/29/2022 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 9/30/2022, By: jamesmlord Info: Turned around at K2 due to unexpected snow/sleet storm around 7am that lasted for about an hour. Made the descent across boulder field difficult. One solo climber ahead of us made it up and down safely. Three others behind us also aborted the climb. BTW, I found some hiking poles on the route. If you left poles behind, please let me know where you left them and the type of poles and I will arrange to get them back to you. Otherwise, I plan to give to my son who climbed with me. |
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9/28/2022 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 9/29/2022, By: Gandalf69 Info: Snow off and on throughout the day made for more than I bargained for. I should have turned around at k2. Listen to your instincts, they are usually right. The colors aren't peaking yet in the aspen area. |
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9/25/2022 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 9/25/2022, By: TX2AFA Info: Camped overnight and were first group up, started at 0500 and on summit by 8:30. Back to car at 2:15. Could not have asked for a better day weather wise. Small patch of snow on K2 summit bypass. Plenty of space in parking lot and at camp sites. |
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9/25/2022 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 9/25/2022, By: pboldt94 Info: Dry all the way to summit, despite recent snowfall. Sunny and warm. Message if interest in any photos. |
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9/17/2022 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 9/20/2022, By: swesleyc7 Info: Here's a photo of Capitol, K2 and the knife's edge taken from Snowmass' summit on 9/17. Snow is beginning to accumulate in the area at an increased frequency. Snowmass had 3-4 inches of snow on the summit and the talus field just below, however not in Snowmass Lake's valley. There was not enough compact snow to walk on helpfully in the morning and it proved to be slippery in the afternoon after the sun warmed it up. Hope this is helpful if considering Capitol at this time. |
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9/3/2022 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 9/4/2022, By: The_Ramp Info: Day marred by a fatality that occurred during our climb - see forum topic. Route is clean, clear, and as advertised. From a route-finding perspective, this peak is a real puzzle. From navigating the initial gullies and the talus/boulder field, to the various ups, downs, and arounds on the ridge, and then the traverse up the south face as well as the final ridge push to the summit. A few thoughts: - Preparation was key. There are AMAZING resources out there from other climbers on this site with excellent beta on the route. I strongly suggest you study multiple climber trip reports before attempting. I was surprised in talking with folks around camp the night before our attempt how little knowledge they had on the route. A lot of focus is on the knife edge which is ~0.001% of the total climb and is one of the most-straight forward sections. - We thought the crux of the route was the final push to the notch on the east face, with loose rock and some spicy moves. The descent through this and the rest of the east face was challenging and slow. - Once through the notch and on the summit ridge, the climbing does not ease but actually seems to amp up - we stayed ridge proper going up and then did a slight variation coming down, though mostly on the ridge. It's all pretty solid but very airy and took longer than anticipated. - We took the ditch trail into camp and the creek trail out. The trade with taking the creek trail out is that there is about ~400' of elevation gain to get back to the parking lot. But it was all downhill until that final ascent, the aspen forests in that valley are unreal, we weren't playing the mind games of "I remember this rock; we have to be close now", and our GPS actually said the creek trail was slightly shorter than the ditch trail. Splits: 3.5 Hours TH to Camp (Ditch Trail); 2.5 Hours Camp to K2; 1.5 Hours K2 to Summit; 4 Hours Summit to Camp (we took our time); 3 Hours Camp to TH (Creek Trail) |
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8/14/2022 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 8/15/2022, By: E_A_Marcus_949 Info: Free and clear to the summit. Lots of rockfall. Saturday morning lot absolutely packed; midday at the lake most campsites full - look for people leaving and hover kindly. Lots of cows/cow patties on the upper TH/ditch trail in. The creek crossing right before the standard trail and ditch trail (on the ditch trail side) requires some shoes-off wading unless you're confident in your long-jump abilities. Wag bags available at the TH - use them and make sure to pack them out to a trash can in town. No trash collection at TH. |
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8/8/2022 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 8/9/2022, By: gcook33 Info: Great mtn. 4.25mi, 2700' from campsite 6 after a 6mi backpack in the day before. Some mosquitoes so bring some spray/wipes. Definitely a peak you want to keep your wits about you for multiple hours. |
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8/3/2022 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 8/4/2022, By: zootloopz Info: Summer conditions except for one patch in the boulder field. Spikes not necessary but could be a comfort. Or you could just walk under it. Standard route. Walked / went hands free across the knife edge for my 3rd ascent of this beautiful peak. Still my favorite 14er!!! |
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7/26/2022 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 7/27/2022, By: strausnb Info: Attempted solo ascent of capitol via direct ridge to k2. I mistakenly took this route after losing the trail and figuring the direct ridge couldn't be too bad. A word of forewarning, I don't think the direct ridge should be attempted unless it's not your first time on capitol. Long sustained exposure over loose class 4 rock with no exit points and turning around would likely be more time consuming and dangerous than finishing the ridge. Made it to K2, decided I was overwhelmed and turned around descending the standard route as afternoon storms rolled in. Start early and check your GPX as I lost the route constantly. Saw a bear on the ditch trail so make sure you have your canister. Stay safe! |
