Capitol Peak

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 8/13/2023, By: samfarmer789
Info: Capitol is in great condition! I'd definitely recommend backpacking up to the lake the night before unless you're in for a very long day. We did car to car in just under 15 hours (oof) with 4 hours of that being k2 - k2. Some snow in the back behind the saddle but it was fine without spikes or ax and we glissaded on the way down. There were 3 snow crossings total back there. Bugs weren't bad at all, so pretty with the wildflowers! 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 8/13/2023, By: jpriske
Info: Climbed Capitol Peak 8-12. Still a good amount of snow on the backside of the Capitol-Daly saddle leading up to K2. In my opinion I would still recommend spikes. You could possibly avoid the snow but would require a good amount of elevation loss. No snow on the ridge between k2 and summit. Our group climbed k2 and descended on the climbers right side of k2. It was very solid and would definitely recommend going that route. Overall, conditions were great and the rock was loose but honestly felt like it wasnt as loose as people make it out to be but definitely still test every hold and dont sell out on anything. Left capitol lake at 3:15am, k2 by 5:45, summit at 8:00, back to k2 by 10, back to capitol lake by noon. Have fun out there! 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 8/8/2023, By: JeffPurdy
Info: Agree with the consensus, traction/ace not required but highly suggested. We left ours at camp and had no difficulty summiting. The snow will not leave the trail this year.

PSA: mites and ticks are not the same thing. There were MITES everywhere. There were no ticks.

The flies were a nuisance in the timber and the mosquitoes were a nuisance up to the camp sites, so keep yourself covered. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 8/8/2023, By: skeater912
Info: Beautiful day on capitol. Started at 430, on top at 8 sharp, and back in camp at the lake at noon with about half an hour on the summit. Did not have a ton of bug problems, but did have copious bug spray.
As mentioned, the climb up to K2 still has a few hundred feet of snow - traction certainly not required, although spikes made our ascent in the morning way more efficient as we could bail off the rocks and head straight up the filled in areas. Axes or poles for the glissades down too.
Knife edge was fun, rock along the entire route was nowhere near as bad as I was expecting, and the route finding was straightforward with lots of cairns present. Definitely don't underestimate the route as you are pretty exposed for the entire ridge without any escape options.
Easily my favorite 14er so far, in an area that was significantly more beautiful than I was expecting, or aware of. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 8/5/2023, By: Beccadoe
Info: Beautiful day to summit Capitol! We camped at the lake the night before. I was so worried since I normally get eaten alive by mosquitoes but brought Ben's Insect Repellent - 30 Percent DEET and used Sawyer Permethrin Pump Spray for my clothes. It helped so much and only left with one bite the whole trip!
Spikes were not required, but definitely helpful in the initial gullies and approach to K2. Descending K2 can be kept to class 3 with adequate route finding.
The knife edge was a thrill, but do not lose your focus since route finding is essential for the East Face and final summit scramble. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/31/2023, By: happyallyy
Info: Be prepared for bugs, mosquitoes, and ticks galore. I saw a tick crawling on the knifes edge and many more on the ground/trees near camp. Pack bug spray! Whether you are taking the standard route or high ridge to K2, be prepared for snow on the back side of the Daly saddle. I'd recommend spikes & an ice axe still. We went up & over K2 and I'm glad we did to avoid the snow. Lots of loose & crumbly rock as expected, double and triple check all your hand/footholds. This route is epic! 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/30/2023, By: lauradaughtry
Info: All summer conditions with a few exceptions, most notably being the backside of the mountain/boulder field after you reach the saddle. It is still very much a snow field; I'd highly recommend micro-spikes and an ice ax. There is also a little bit of snow before you reach the lake. Lastly, a little bit of snow is still lingering on K2, so the best option is to summit it and then down climb to the knife edge. The knife edge, though the most notorious feature, was the MOST sturdy (and least scary). Everything after it and onto the summit is EXTREMELY loose; it's honestly not talked about or discussed enough. Please make sure you test absolutely every hand- and foot- hold. Cairns are well marked, and route-finding was not a problem. Bring bug spray, as flies and mosquitos are equally awful! 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/24/2023, By: fuzzysisneros
Info: Gorgeous weather day on 7/23. Similar report to ryanfree. Standard and straightforward river crossings from the trailhead to the lake. One patch of snow right below the lake. Clear and dry up to Daly pass. Snow on the backside from Daly Pass to about 200 vertical ft below K2 summit. It is mostly continuous and makes for easier travel up and down. Solid freeze in the morning and soft enough to glissade but not posthole on the way down around 9:45 am. We were fine with just axes. Spikes would inspire confidence but not necessary. One patch of snow by the summit of K2, the north face, forcing you to go over the top (Photo #17). No snow between K2 and summit otherwise.

edit: Bugs are pretty bad. Bring DEET or Permethrin 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/24/2023, By: ryanfree7926
Info: Fun day on Capitol. The trip to the lake was snow free with a few easy creek crossings. No snow until dropping down the back of the daly saddle where you can expect continuous, consolidated snow (starting at photo 13 and ending just before photo 16). Usual pattern in hard ice in the AM and then slushy glissadable snow on the way down. Spikes and poles were great to have but an axe on a few sections would have been helpful but not necessary. The snow ended on the last approach to K2 and the photo 16 talus field to the summit was entirely snow free. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/21/2023, By: Dayute
Info: All snow avoidable on the K2 bypass though after doing both I would never opt for the bypass again. K2 direct is solid and fun and bypass is a chossy death trap. Previous report still correct re snow from Daly saddle to base of K2. Bring the good deet and put it on at the trailhead. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/18/2023, By: amitchell
Info: Started 2am, summited 8am, back to car at noon. Full snowfield from Daly saddle to just under K2. Had to use microspikes and axe. It did make it a lot easier than walking up rock though. From K2 to summit no snow. Was a great day! 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/14/2023, By: nweitzer7
Info: Virtually no snow until cresting Daly saddle, on the other side its mostly snow with pockets of rock so spikes or axe still a good idea. Right side of K2 has a hanging snowfield so we opted to top out on K2 then downclimb to the right before snaking up to the Knifes edge. Beyond knifes edge no snow/ice obstacles 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/9/2023, By: Jorts
Info: There were some snow crossings on the traverse over from the Daly saddle. Then it was a snow climb up to the Clark saddle. Capitol ridge was completely dry.

We descended down to Pierre Lakes via Wandering Dutchman. That was also mostly dry. Plenty of snow down around the frozen lakes. Made travel over the talus blocks fairly effortless. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/8/2023, By: Loganweber16
Info: Summited on July 7 with great weather conditions. The backside of K2 still has a good amount of snow and would require ice axe/crampons for a few hundred yard ascent before 11am or so (if you choose that route). We climbed the ridge of K2 which requires class 4, class 5 moves - not recommended for inexperienced hikers. On the way down, we were able to glissade the pitch on K2 with little difficulty - still no significant postholing. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/3/2023, By: burchenal
Info: Still lots of snow. Getting over or around K2 was the hardest. Went around on the way out and over on the way back. Both ways kinda heinous. Steep (60 degree) snow and ice in some of the gullies. Definitely need ice axe and crampons. I was front pointing across some of the gullies. Micro spikes will not work. Knife ridge and summit slopes are pretty free of snow. Any patches are avoidable. There is also a lot of snow (continuous) from the pass to K2. Micro spikes ok there but ice axe still helpful. There is patchy snow from 10,000 ft that becomes continuous below the lake. I brought snowshoes but didnt need them. No postholing even on the way out on a warm day.

Also, Capitol Creek is running swift. I went out on the capitol creek trail using the footbridge. I forded the creek on the way back and came out on the Ditch trail. No way of staying dry on the Ditch.