7/23/2023 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 7/24/2023, By: fuzzysisneros Info: Gorgeous weather day on 7/23. Similar report to ryanfree. Standard and straightforward river crossings from the trailhead to the lake. One patch of snow right below the lake. Clear and dry up to Daly pass. Snow on the backside from Daly Pass to about 200 vertical ft below K2 summit. It is mostly continuous and makes for easier travel up and down. Solid freeze in the morning and soft enough to glissade but not posthole on the way down around 9:45 am. We were fine with just axes. Spikes would inspire confidence but not necessary. One patch of snow by the summit of K2, the north face, forcing you to go over the top (Photo #17). No snow between K2 and summit otherwise. edit: Bugs are pretty bad. Bring DEET or Permethrin |
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7/20/2023 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 7/21/2023, By: Dayute Info: All snow avoidable on the K2 bypass though after doing both I would never opt for the bypass again. K2 direct is solid and fun and bypass is a chossy death trap. Previous report still correct re snow from Daly saddle to base of K2. Bring the good deet and put it on at the trailhead. |
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7/16/2023 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 7/18/2023, By: amitchell Info: Started 2am, summited 8am, back to car at noon. Full snowfield from Daly saddle to just under K2. Had to use microspikes and axe. It did make it a lot easier than walking up rock though. From K2 to summit no snow. Was a great day! |
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7/14/2023 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 7/14/2023, By: nweitzer7 Info: Virtually no snow until cresting Daly saddle, on the other side its mostly snow with pockets of rock so spikes or axe still a good idea. Right side of K2 has a hanging snowfield so we opted to top out on K2 then downclimb to the right before snaking up to the Knifes edge. Beyond knifes edge no snow/ice obstacles |
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7/8/2023 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 7/9/2023, By: Jorts Info: There were some snow crossings on the traverse over from the Daly saddle. Then it was a snow climb up to the Clark saddle. Capitol ridge was completely dry. We descended down to Pierre Lakes via Wandering Dutchman. That was also mostly dry. Plenty of snow down around the frozen lakes. Made travel over the talus blocks fairly effortless. |
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7/7/2023 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 7/8/2023, By: Loganweber16 Info: Summited on July 7 with great weather conditions. The backside of K2 still has a good amount of snow and would require ice axe/crampons for a few hundred yard ascent before 11am or so (if you choose that route). We climbed the ridge of K2 which requires class 4, class 5 moves - not recommended for inexperienced hikers. On the way down, we were able to glissade the pitch on K2 with little difficulty - still no significant postholing. |
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7/2/2023 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 7/3/2023, By: burchenal Info: Still lots of snow. Getting over or around K2 was the hardest. Went around on the way out and over on the way back. Both ways kinda heinous. Steep (60 degree) snow and ice in some of the gullies. Definitely need ice axe and crampons. I was front pointing across some of the gullies. Micro spikes will not work. Knife ridge and summit slopes are pretty free of snow. Any patches are avoidable. There is also a lot of snow (continuous) from the pass to K2. Micro spikes ok there but ice axe still helpful. There is patchy snow from 10,000 ft that becomes continuous below the lake. I brought snowshoes but didnt need them. No postholing even on the way out on a warm day. Also, Capitol Creek is running swift. I went out on the capitol creek trail using the footbridge. I forded the creek on the way back and came out on the Ditch trail. No way of staying dry on the Ditch. |
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6/23/2023 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 6/23/2023, By: HokieTom Info: This was actually a hike up to Capitol Lake. First, the 4WD road is pretty mild right now. Second, the 3 TD stream crossing is not happening w/o getting wet. Then you have 3 more to do before the Lake. Third, looks like tons of snow before the lake. |
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6/12/2023 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 6/12/2023, By: lang_daly Info: Great mountaineering conditions right now. Highly recommend ice axe and crampons. Creek crossing is a little tricky. Continuous snow starts around 3.5-4 miles in. Some semi-sheltered camping spots around the lake but none of the designated sites are snow free yet as far as I can tell. Knife edge snow free. K2 and several spots on the face of Capitol after leaving the ridge have very steep snow. Tip: If you go left descending from K2, you can get a straighter shot for your glissade, but it's a little steeper. |
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5/28/2023 Route: Area Posted On: 5/28/2023, By: WillRobnett Info: Capitol & Daly |
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5/5/2023 Route: view from below Posted On: 5/6/2023, By: WillRobnett Info: Capitol-left & Daly-right |
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12/26/2022 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 12/26/2022, By: Will_E Info: No summit. I went up a week ago to figure out the creek crossing in daylight (thanks Screesurfer!), then went back last Friday and put in a trench to Moon lake so I wouldn't have to deal with my sucky route finding ability in the dark. Today I made my attempt, but after reaching K2 I just couldn't muster the cojones to proceed on. My trench is much better than usual, I was pretty happy with my route through treeline, made it to Moon Lake in 4.5 hours this morning. No telling if it will survive the weather that is showing to arrive on Wednesday. A few really big trees came down with the wind storm last Thursday, but not difficult to get around. |
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9/29/2022 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 9/30/2022, By: jamesmlord Info: Turned around at K2 due to unexpected snow/sleet storm around 7am that lasted for about an hour. Made the descent across boulder field difficult. One solo climber ahead of us made it up and down safely. Three others behind us also aborted the climb. BTW, I found some hiking poles on the route. If you left poles behind, please let me know where you left them and the type of poles and I will arrange to get them back to you. Otherwise, I plan to give to my son who climbed with me. |
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9/28/2022 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 9/29/2022, By: Gandalf69 Info: Snow off and on throughout the day made for more than I bargained for. I should have turned around at k2. Listen to your instincts, they are usually right. The colors aren't peaking yet in the aspen area. |
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9/25/2022 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 9/25/2022, By: TX2AFA Info: Camped overnight and were first group up, started at 0500 and on summit by 8:30. Back to car at 2:15. Could not have asked for a better day weather wise. Small patch of snow on K2 summit bypass. Plenty of space in parking lot and at camp sites. |
