9/10/2011 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 9/11/2011, By: BobbyFinn Info: The north/west side of K2 has some snow, but it's only enough to make you really check where you're about to put your feet. The ridge between K2 and Capitol had some frost and a little snow on the north (ascender'e right) side, but not enough to cause problems. It melted off by the time we descended. The rest of the route had infrequent, inconsequential amounts of snow, mainly in nooks where the sun couldn't get to it. As we descended, a storm came in with a very small amount of graupel. |
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8/30/2011 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 9/1/2011, By: hugemike Info: No need for crampons or ice axe up to K2. K2 clean of ice or snow on North side. Only saw 3 or 4 cows on the way up. You can avoid getting wet at creek crossing if you travel 100 or so yards to the right and then cross. |
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8/8/2011 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 8/16/2011, By: slowhead Info: Summitted during the only perfect weather days of the summer, last week. Several sizable snowfields across the talus prior to K2. You can do it with hiking poles, but in the early morning, the steps are icy and spikes would be nice. Once you ascend toward K2, conditions are ideal. Camping is a challenge. Arrive early or be prepared to invent a campsite. (Hillhag & Slowhead have only two 14ers left now.) |
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8/7/2011 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 8/8/2011, By: LynnKH Info: River crossing still seem fairly high. Trekking poles and a change of socks helped. All summer conditions on the mountain with the exception of the talus fields between the Daly-Capitol saddle and the right turn to K2. There is still one significant snow field in this section which is unavoidable. Having microspikes and ice axe were nice, but others got away without...but then they missed out on the sweet glissade. We had an awesome blue-bird day (though with some increasing wind) which made for a very relaxed, fun summit push and return. image 1: crossing an optional snowfield helped avoid a lot of talus image 2: the unavoidable snowfield after the right turn towards K2 image 3: snow free for the last few hundred feet to K2 image 4: wild flowers in full bloom |
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7/23/2011 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 7/24/2011, By: ChrisinAZ Info: For the hike in, all the way to the Cap/Daly saddle, the only significant snow on the trail is a mild uphill, bareboot-able stretch just before the campsites, along with a few areas where snow can be skirted by hiking through mud. The stream crossing at the end of the ditch trail warrants removing shoes, and probably a trekking pole for stability. From the saddle to K2: there are still several bands of snow across/through the cliffy traverse just past the saddle. I found it easiest to descend the steep and loose, but dry slope straight down from the saddle to the snowfield in the lower basin. From there, a combination of talus-hopping and easy snow travel gets you to 13200'. Ice axe is a good idea, crampons may or may not be needed depending on your comfort level on snow and the time of day. Snow gear can be left at the end of the snowfield at 13200'. K2 itself still has a snowfield or two that complicate the presumed normal 4th class ascent. From the base of K2, you can follow cairns down and to the left a short distance to a steep, exposed 4th class ascent to the summit. K2 to Capitol: summer conditions. A few small, easily avoidable patches of snow. |
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6/11/2011 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 6/11/2011, By: Carl Info: Continuous snow begins shortly after the creek cross, about 10,100ft. Good conditions for a snow climb. The knife edge is actually easier right now than summer. Although I'm sure it's melting quick so this report could be outdated very soon. The southeast face skied well today. Just two thin spots were you have to step over some rocks. Attached is a photo. |