Capitol Peak

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 8/25/2015, By: marklopez77
Info: A group of friends and I recently climbed Capitol's standard route. We knew it was going to be a great climb, so we brought GoPros to film the experience. Highlights of the video include the snow crossings, climb over K2, the Knife Edge, and the epic, often underestimated summit ridge. Hope you enjoy, and let me know what you think!: https://youtu.be/yYlggP805tc 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/26/2015, By: jeremy27
Info: 4-5 Snowfields still persist on the backside. My partner and I had ice-axes and we are glad we did - ended up cutting steps for others. Snow softened up on the descent. Bears still a problem and apparently there was an "incident/encounter" (as posted on a USFS sign at the trail junction - whatever that means) on the west snowmass trail. We saw a bear as we were leaving and he was not frightened away by our presence in the least. Good luck. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/20/2015, By: Stiffler_from_Denver
Info: Safely climbed Capitol on Saturday. Summer conditions all the way to the Daly saddle. There's a lot of snow on the back which was nice to cross with an ice ax. (see the photos) I'd recommend carrying the extra weight of the ice ax to have peace of mind crossing those snow fields. There's a small snow field on the right side of K2 which is the suggested easiest route. We didn't mess with that snow field and instead climbed higher up K2. There are some good cairns that should get you to the summit. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/14/2015, By: cordisimo
Info: Climbed Capitol this morning. Summer conditions to the Capitol-Daly saddle, then there are two or three snowfield to side traverse across. The path is obvious with the footprints already there and I never felt insecure without poles, crampons, an axe or microspikes. Everything else is clear all the way to the summit. So, basically summer conditions. Go enjoy!

EDIT: I should note that I did not necessarily take the standard route outlined on this website, but rather stayed generally on the ridge proper to gain the summit. I have since been informed of a small but significant snowfield which the standard route must traverse (see photo #4), so keep that in mind if. Otherwise, the ridge went at a good 4th class, but the rock was as solid as Elk rock could be.

Some ridiculous electric-hail-storm hit once I was I was back below treeline, I had passed some guys who by my calculations would have been right around the top at that time. Yikes! I hope all are safe! 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/8/2015, By: herdbull
Info: Looks like site 6 still has snow but all others are snow free. As of 7/7/15 there is a bear hanging around the camp sites. Use caution.

Still snow on the back side of the route. You will have to cross several snow fields or chutes on the way around below the cliffs. It can not be avoided unless you take the ridge route. I could not believe the amount of snow in the bowl on the backside heading up to K2.

Once you get to where you can see K2 snow can be avoided. Currently the "easier" routes around K2 are somewhat hazardous with really soft and steep snow. I would bet within 7-10 days they will be melted out.

Rest of route pretty much in summer conditions. 1 small snowfield on the final push to the summit might cause a little grief. Very steep and very soft. I did summit without snow gear so it can be done if careful. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/7/2015, By: bwilcox121212
Info: There is NO SNOW at campgrounds! Either it melted quicker than expected or writer below was confused on campsite area.

Please dont let post below detour you from going up to lake, its BEAUTIFUL! 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 6/29/2015, By: Lucky Day
Info: Still a ton of snow above the saddle. Did not have traction or axes, and snow was very soft by 8:00 am, so we turned around. Also saw some slab fracture lines in this area. Campsites around the lake still snowed in. Probably another few weeks before its ready. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 6/1/2015, By: moneymike
Info: I had a failed attempt on Capitol yesterday. Every aspect and elevation was avalanching. Some were running to the ground. There wasn't a hard freeze at tree line overnight. Some loaded north aspects above 13k' were holding large winter-like slabs.

It wasn't until we were above 12,500' that we observed a hard freeze but the snow was mostly unconsolidated there.

The weather forecast appears to perpetuate these conditions for the next week or so. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2/16/2015, By: ap snow
Info: Close but no cigar. A storm rolled in sooner than I thought and locked up the face making it unsafe to ski (a icy ski descent of Cap is not recommended)... Huge props to Abe aka FireOnTheMountain for his 2nd winter Capitol summit. Thanks so much Abe for breaking trail! 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 10/22/2014, By: sarahhaubert
Info: Much more snow on the actual ridge than anticipated-even while ascending from Capitol Lake. We continued despite concerns about the snow, plus strategically placed ice on the technical (that is, strategically placed by the universe to make the route more dangerous ;) but turned back just under the summit of K2-the deep snow on the (SE?) side under the blazing sun and clear skies was worrisome for a future of getting back off the ridge. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/21/2014, By: Crestoner
Info: The route is essentially clear of snow and ice all the way to the summit. One notable exception...right at the beginning of the K2 traverse, where you step onto the face, there is a patch of snow and ice. We instead ascended the very dry and somewhat rubbly pitch on the southern aspect of K2, while others did the direct class-4 pitch (east). On our descent, I checked out the K2 traverse, while others did the descent off the class-4 pitch. The traverse is great...mostly dry, some easily avoidable snow...until those last few feet. I ascended to the next line to avoid that snow, and was able to move onto the bottom of the class-4 pitch. But there was some unbelievably invisible ice on one sharply slanted rock...glad I had good hand placement. I was able to stretch over this ice, but only because I am 6'4". 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/18/2014, By: Cool Hand Luke
Info: Standard route is snow-free if you go up and over K2. Stayed on the ridge proper from K2 to the summit to lessen rockfall danger, which entails much more class 4.

Aspens in the area are changing, some groves were at peak up high, but the classic valley shot from the TH should be peak in 7-10 days. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/14/2014, By: bdloftin77
Info: If you climb within a few days of this report, you will see a snow dusting on the north face of the mountain, including some snow on K2. On the standard route, you won't encounter snow until K2 (as per today). The east face has no snow. The north face has some snow on the NW portion, however the NE portion/ridge of K2 has less snow. I climbed down K2 (and up coming back) on the NE ridge of K2 mentioned. The knife edge is clear. Almost all of the lower route to the summit is clear of snow. There are some small patches under rocks and in the shade which are avoidable if the climber wishes. I brought microspikes, but did not need or use them.

A guide who has summited Capitol 15 times, (and myself), both advise that you climb to the top of K2, and down the right (N) side where there is less snow, as opposed to traversing around K2. There is some snow on the lower areas of K2 right now, and when there isn't, the rock is apparently a lot more loose and unstable on the traverse route. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/4/2014, By: ORION
Info: Ideal climbing conditions Wednesday. The recent snow on the route is almost completely gone. Very small patches of new snow are avoidable. Microspikes/cramp-ons not necessary IMO. One exception, we chose to go up and over K2 because the traverse skirting K2s north side had a little snow and mud. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 8/11/2014, By: uwe
Info: Excellent conditions TH to Capitol Lake.
Camping sites 1-6 were available.
Ranger dude visited and pointed out the dispersed camping area that was below sites 1-6. Told us the sites 1-6 were for smaller groups and for larger groups, they should stay below. Our group was size was 6, so all good.

Standard route straightforward. Snow is pretty much gone and spots can be avoided. No need for micro-spikes or ice axe. Quite a few folks doing Capitol these days. First time on the steep switchbacks after crossing over the saddle and continuing another 100 yards. Drops you into a gully which you cross and then up-climb the next tiny gully to regain the trail and continue your traverse below the ridge until you get to the big boulders. Carins seem to be pretty well placed all along the trail.

Tons of wildflowers.