Capitol Peak

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 8/31/2020, By: Marshall
Info: *It rained/hailed/snowed a good amount on my hike out, so it might be wise to look for a more up-to-date report.* The (ditch) trail was in very good shape the whole way to the saddle. I went along the ridge from the saddle up to K2 and tried to stay on top of the ridge as much as possible. Definitely some really exposed stuff this way, but there were options here and there to circumvent the most challenging parts. The rock was mostly solid, and it was apparent where it wasn't going to hold. From K2 to the summit I stayed on the ridge as well after initially following cairns through looser stuff below. Give me the solid ridgeline over the loose rubble any day. I came off K2 through the gully and only stepped on snow for about 20 ft. No traction needed.

Times (I hiked quickly, went at a normal speed on the ridges):

1:50 to the lake
2:20 to the saddle
4:20 to summit

Pictures are parts of the ridge from saddle to K2. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 8/23/2020, By: durkan
Info: Crossed frozen snow fields on the east side of the Daly-K2 ridge early in the morning, but avoidable if you just go low and regain elevation later. They were soft by the afternoon.

After tagging K2, avoid going up and over to the south as previously described. Found the west face to be a slab as well, so returning to the northwest or north was better for us.

Lots of traffic today, but groups split between ridge of Capitol's Northeast Ridge proper and the main trail on the east face. Pick your poison and be safe: this one is solid where it needs to be on (i.e. on the Knife Edge) but loose on the east face before gaining the small east ridge, as described in the route description.

Plenty of great weather, and smoke wasn't too bad. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 8/22/2020, By: ericd01
Info: 12hr Capitol Peak in the summer, a fine class-4 alpine day-hike probably not for everyone. The 3-mile Ditch trail is a nice in-the-dark early warmup. Similarities to nearby Snowmass trail: accessible parking, grassy aspen ascent, creeks to cross, and a free ranging cattle gate to close behind you. Found the NE ridge route over-exaggerated. The talus fields were clear of ice and offered many route variations. Watch out if directly downclimbing up and over K2 as it cliffs out into an abyss. Gloves were more appropriate than micro spikes. Helpful trip times: 3hrs to Capitol Lake basin, 2hrs to K2, 1.5hrs to summit. Descent 5.5hrs. Streams are low. Cheers! 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 8/5/2020, By: Justineroberson5
Info: We went through 3-4 snow fields on the way up and down. Traction would of been cool in the morning. Everything softened by the afternoon otherwise summer conditions! 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 8/3/2020, By: Gandalf69
Info: After the monsoon weekend went back to Capitol with unexpected day off. Had other weekend plans, but they changed when people bailed at last minute. Left th at 245, summit at 1130. 2 groups of 2 people went up the north face, I saw 2 summit and talked to other 2 at saddle going down. Some dark clouds here and there but nothing threatening. Back at car at 645PM. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 8/4/2020, By: jasongraves99
Info: Still snow fields below K2, can be navigated around but adds miles. The standard route and the ridge direct was completely free though. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/31/2020, By: kevmonster
Info: Perfect weather on Capitol yesterday. Almost all camping spots were full on a Wednesday night. There are a few snow fields to cross between the Mt. Daly saddle and the path up K2 I would have felt better with poles and/or spikes. Summer conditions K2-Summit. 8 hrs from camp at Captiol Lake. 2 hrs to K2, 2 hrs to summit, 2 hrs back to K2, 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/20/2020, By: Gandalf69
Info: Backpacked for a night in the valley, went up the peak Sunday with a friend. Little snow showers on summit and shared summit with someone who finished. 

Route: Ridge Direct
Posted On: 7/19/2020, By: IsaacD
Info: Snow free all the way to the summit. Total summer conditions on the ridge direct - can't comment on the basin below for the standard route though.

Very loose rock below K2 that almost proved fatal for multiple parties on Saturday. Be careful out there! 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/12/2020, By: Gandalf69
Info: Day hiked Capitol Saturday again, but made the summit this time. Blue skies, no wind, and great trail companions. Everyone was looking out for everyone else with falling rock and everything. Flowers up to and around lake are great. Snow fields on last picture. 

Route: Ridge Direct Variation
Posted On: 7/11/2020, By: RichH
Info: Beautiful warm bluebird day on Friday Jul 10th. We went up a variation of ridge direct from the saddle, then followed ridge up to K2, then took the standard route to Capitol. We didn't hit snow anywhere from the lake to the summit. The small snowfield on K2 is easy to avoid.

The standard route east slopes/basin after the saddle still has quite a bit of snow which is hard in the morning. Microspikes and an axe/poles are recommended. We took the standard route back mid-morning and the snow was soft and easier to cross. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/5/2020, By: Wild Bill
Info: Trail conditions are great. I would consider taking crampons for some fast travel along the east side, still some solid snow covering. Incredible views, clear sky, no wind. 

Route: ridge direct/descend standard
Posted On: 7/1/2020, By: Unknown
Info: Creek crossing was doable for me, most everyone else had to take off shoes. Small packed down snowfield just before lake, was rock hard ice from the overnight freeze no issue. Gained the saddle via dry switchbacks. Once on the saddle from basin, took the ridge direct to summit including a fun chimney. Totally dry on the ridge direct, descended standard and never felt the need to use my crampons. If you ascend standard traction/gaiters might help. Fun route 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 6/30/2020, By: Eagle Eye
Info: I summited Capitol Peak yesterday 6/29. As Gandalf69 mentioned there are multiple trees down and detours around trees on the lower trail. The (wide, but not deep) stream crossing at 9,850 required me to take off my shoes and socks and wade across! Parts of the lower and much of the upper basin approach to K2 are deep snowfields. Microspikes were great in the morning there, for traction -and the snow was supportive, too. MUCH less so on the return!! Words were said. A mostly overcast day had probably helped a lot, actually! I climbed K2 on the way up but bypassed it on the north side returning. Much of the upper, north side of K2 is snow-covered. It was windier than I wanted for the knife edge and I stayed in whichever places I could hold onto and that seemed less windy. The wind came in big surprise gusts and I didn't walk any of the ridge. Once across the ridge, snow gullies cover some of the upper summer route to the summit. Lots of drainage and mud on the upper part of the mountain. Other than at Capitol Lake and lower (on the way down) I didn't see anyone on the ridge or mountain. A person was just a little behind me (with a headlamp) in the early morning as I was reaching the Mt Daly-Capitol Peak saddle, but I didn't see them again. I will post some pictures soon. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 6/28/2020, By: Gandalf69
Info: I day hiked Capitol today, went up past the knife edge and back. Turned around because clouds looked threatening and was tired. I didn't get any good pictures because my phones screen died a hour into hike. Route dry past k2, lots of dead trees on trail before lake.